1 hour ago, degrub said:

Overheated terminations and wire is the first step in the recipe for a wiring fire. 
i would fix those first, including any others that have  not warned you with discoloration and melting - asap.

Remember, heat rises.

Hello

This was taken care of asap as soon I discovered it.. Now also with temp monitor on each breaker.

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Looks great. Congrats with your new panels and batteries.

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16 minutes ago, lom said:

They will loosen up again, sorry to be repetitive but you are using a flat lug that will have a very limited contact surface with the switch.

It doesn't bottom out so the pressure on it will deform its side edges with time and that is when it get loose again.

Don't ask me how I know this..

Thanks for your input...I was wondering exact the same..if this just will continue. As for now the plan to get this temporary improved and working/running. Then next step I would make a plan for improved setup who also should be ready for adding more batteries in future. When I calculated and built my setup I was quite sure I would not need to expand it in the future but after experience the hot season with less optimal sun direction and school vacation with kid home and run his AC, I'm more open for the idea to expand capacity.

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18 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Ideally you should do something like this: - 

 

 

Each inverter has a means of isolation from the batteries, each battery can be isolated from the DC bus.

 

How you do the paralleling is up to you of course, but as you've found multiple cables in one MCB hole is unwise.

 

A nice, meaty, copper bus-bar is the ideal solution.

 

 

I hesitate to post this, but I've seen this done in the past, slip some heat shrink over it, if you don't actually shrink it, you can see if the joint has been getting warm (the heat shrink will, er, shrink).

 

Thanks Crossy

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Update: Temp coming down again.. after tightening the 2 screws. Learning something everyday..i will keep my eyes on this, I even consider placing 1 of 2 temp monitors from each BMS on each battery breaker.

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Checked my battery breakers and found that the breaker i cleaned up yesterday was normal temp but the other one was very hot and so also the wire from breaker to battery. I was able to tighten the screws some and hope that will fix it.

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Nice progress. Waiting to see more on your battery building.. Quite a upgrade you are on.

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29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Is that how the manual says to do it?

I just thought that would be the best option to parallel without connect with breakers. Please suggest options for parallel connection.

Edit: I also have option to parallel between breakers and BMS.

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My plan now is to connect the battery cables between the 2 inverters for parallel the batteries.

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Correction: distance between battery wires down from the 2 inverters are 55cm. ( red to red and black to black)

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7 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

You're welcome.

 

Do note that it has absolutely nothing whatever to do with this afternoon's magical transformation of a 0.5mm² BMS sense wire into a poof of acrid smoke and a slight black stain on the top of the battery pack I'm building! **

 

I didn't even say "Abracadabra"!

 

** The un-stripped end of the wire contacted the B- terminal, 4 x 560Ah (2P - 280Ah) cells in series can generate an amp or two!

I had a "almost" issue today.. I closed down the 2 bms with the pushbuttons for the bms but when i checked with voltmeter i noticed it was still power...then i see the connector to the bms for the power button had slided out so it had not power off as I expected.

There is 70-80 cm between the battery cables i want to parallel, and they are short ( inverter to breaker), so i guess i must use cable between them not just the copper bus bar. With quality thick copper battery connectors i might could connect 3 of the them on a bolt with nut? ( 1 to inverter, 1 to breaker, 1 to parallel then same in the other end of parallel cable)

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59 minutes ago, Crossy said:

IMPORTANT NOTE: - Please don't lose sight of the fact that there is a LOT of energy tied up in your battery packs.

 

These packs are quite capable of pushing several thousand amps if shorted, that 1/2" drive ratchet stands no chance.

 

A litre of petrol/gasoline contains about 33MJ or about 10kWh => 200Ah @ 48V.

 

It may be "only" 48V but please treat your pack with the respect it deserves.

Thanks for the reminder. My system is up and running again now without the parallel connectors who i will find another solution for. I will fully charge my batteries before parallel them again.

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2 minutes ago, Crossy said:

For high-current parallel connections I'd use a bus-bar with one lug per bolt.

 

Something like this.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i4750566069-s19589324451.html

 

Yes that could be the route to go now. Connected between breaker and inverter. Do you see any problem to run the setup some days without parallel connection between the batteries?

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8 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

I don't think I would have done it like that!!

 

What size is your wire? It's friend?

 

Lug and wire look as when it was new. Wire is 35mm2 but expand when remove the protection around and not easy to handle at all.

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I can confirm the coloring is just outside and im able to sand off a good part of it.

I have just removed my parallel connection between the breakers and will find another way for doing this. I guess i can still use the the setup temporary without parallel batteries?

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18 minutes ago, lom said:

Looks like you are using some kind of lug on the wires, maybe DZ47/C45 lugs like this:

 

the switch however is intended for bare wire which you can see from its rounded bottom.

I use DIN-rail enclosures for all my other switches but the battery DC switch I used is this one:

 

 

 

 

 

it has proper M8 hex bolts and not weak Philips type screws..

Looks good. I use a heavy duty type lug for high current. see photo

Currently my parallel connection is after on/off breaker and before inverter. Is there any problem to parallel the batteries before breaker on battery side?

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3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

That's definitely gotten rather warm!! Clean-up and reconnect, keep an eye on it.

 

You may want to reconsider using two wires in one hole on a high-current connection.

Yes look so. Maybe i should dessable the wires for parallel for now. And then look for other way to parallel?

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Thanks for the reply. I use 2 connector in same hole. one from inverter and 1 for parallel. Here is a photo from underside where the 2 connectors connected.

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I just noticed Brown spots on my one battery breakers front and under on the one pole. Any ideas what is this? Should i still use it? replace? It have never switched yet

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4 minutes ago, kwak250 said:

Now that's great.

DIY set up sounds good

What sort of price would this be?

I used THB 300K. You can see some more details here

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49 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

It's on a slow boat to from China.

With so good deal its worth the wait!

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4 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Current thought experiment.

 

 

The 6 panels at the top are installed and working.

The 6 at the bottom should be done and working this week.

 

The additional 28 need some planning (how to support where the columns won't get hit).

 

All good fun.

How many total watt solarpanel when all up?

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5 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Not certain yet, we certainly need an inverter upgrade looking possibly at 3 x  Deye SUN-5k-SG05LP1-EU 

 

https://www.lazada.co.th//products/i4978816678-s20977309094.html

 

Plus a major upgrade of the ESS arrangements.

 

Great inverter.

When you expect to get your battery deal delivered?

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