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Longtooth

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Posts posted by Longtooth

  1. With 'smaller' scale projects you might use a parabolic trough type of solar thermal collector in combination with an organic Rankine cycle engine to produce electricity.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabolic_trough

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_Rankine_cycle

    Yep, Wally Minto was using low temp waste hot water, or geothermal, and using FREON as the gas/fluid in the system and getting good results 25 or more years ago.

    When I applied for a gov grant for a sail plane with solar trough collectors built into the wings, a freon expander (turbine) to run the prop and condensate pump, with a condensing/cooling coil array under the fuselage... Dr. Paul McCready (excuse my spelling) actually answered my phone call in my limited research. He said NASA had solar cells twice as efficient than a person could buy on the open market. And a solar cell array with NASA's efficiency would be lighter than the freon Rankine cycle system....case closed. I sent the app anyway... no joy. Consider, if you will (Rod Serling) You have a house on a hill. You run a 4 foot diameter black plastic tube all the way up the hill. At the top you put a simple multi-vane ducted fan running a generator. you continue the 4 foot diameter black plastic tube up a 4 foot diameter stack about 20 meters high (or less) sealed air flow system til release at the stack top. You should be able to get something on each side of noon. I don't know about how small an aircon you would have to have. You could put a clear plastic outer tube over the black tube with a 2" air gap, a-la those solar hot air balloons.to increase efficiency. Run the aircon compressor pump directly from the ducted fan and save 10% mechanical to generator, and 10% generator to motor, and you've improved it's efficiency 20%.

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  2. The first movement with the gear pedal disengages the clutch. If you don't think that is correct then cruise along at say 50 kph and depress the pedal and you will find you just carry on without any engine braking. Clutchless is a misconception, they have a clutch but it is incorporated in with the gear lever.

    Yes, absolutely! So, to downshift smoothly, downshift with your foot and hold it in that position (you will either be lifting with your toe, or depressing with your heel on a wave ) THEN you either give the throttle a "stab" (a quick rev) or simply twist it more to increase the revs (I prefer this downshifting in turns, because you don't want the rear wheel to feel extra torque, either positive or negative) then at a medium pace release the foot shifter to static position in the new, lower gear. If you're in a long sweeper, and you're slowly releasing the foot shifter, you can make a "by feel" throttle adjustment as you're releasing the foot shifter. It takes some practice for sure. It'll get better with your time trying. It works just fine. I've never heard them called "crunchers."

    My opinion is to sell the clutchless and buy a clutch model if that's what you want. Also, my opinion, if you do that, buy the Yamaha 135 water cooled Spark, in sit-up position (not racing position, which they also make) with hand clutch (they also make clutchless, which is what I have. You can't carry a 4 meter ladder on your shoulder as you go down the road on a clutch type.) It's the BEST little bike in Thailand, about 53,000 baht with electric start. They make a "Sprark " air cooled 115cc, it's fine, but get the 135cc water cooled. Mono-shock rear and electric start. Cut the driver position formed depression seat foam back another two inches.

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  3. Just to be clear, there are three different methods that I know of:

    1 - lay insulation on the floor of the roof void (common but not cheap).

    2 - spray an expansive mix against the inside of the roof tiles (less common but most effective)

    3 - shoot insulation into the roof void (never heard of that in Thailand, only in the UK).

    1. used to be ~80 Baht/m², if properly installed quite effective.

    2. spraying tiles not effective at all. it will only delay but not prevent that the attic heats up and heat is transferred to the rooms below.

    3. best choice but unfortunately...

    4. a must is ventilation of the attic!

    Hey Naam would there be any advantage in insulating the roof in the attic in an area above a particular room/rooms only?

    TOTALLY! I put double foil faced 6" bats, 60cm wide to fit over my T-bar tile grid, tightly and nicely fitted, in only the master bedroom and master bath. Beautiful.

    Just a totally different thing. When you run the air-con in there, it could be a fridge if you wanted. It holds the cool, also. Bought at Home Mart in rolls. P.S. I have white cool roof tiles, and white cool paint on the whole house. I think it helps.

  4. Those multi-function cable to weight gyms are super-overpriced. I bought the identical thing in Cali from Walmart for $199. Here they want like 22,000 baht. ??????

    Weights are hard to find. I went to the steel supply store and he had some thick rounds already torched out. He wanted to sell them like they were gold, not scrap steel.

    Just keep searching the net for a used set is my slim advice.

  5. I think yes, six houses WITH tabien ban all wanting to be hooked up. You can have them run quite a way from the end of the nearest existing 220 volt line to where you are, if that's possible. If you are kilometers from 220 volt lines and other houses you have to buy the transformer. As soon as you do, you may get some neighbors building near to your property to enjoy the electricity. They might be expected to pay a share of the transformer as they moved in, but it will never happen, I think. If your electric meter is more than 20 meters from your property line you will pay on the order of 5 baht a kilowatt hour as opposed to 3 baht. (In that approximate ratio.) A transformer is not cheap, but I would advise against dedicating your life to babysitting a solar system or generator system. Bite the bullet, you only pay once.

  6. 30K is a large amount, they may have put a temporary block on it and you may need to explain to the bank what it is for etc..

    This happened to a friend of mine some time back (also from UK) but with Kasikorn Bank, and he just told them it was for a condo purchase and they released it right away (instantly).

    It may be something to do with money laundering regulations.

    Maybe others have experienced this..

    +1 I don't know how long it would have just sat there. I had to go in and ask. Then the same as above.

  7. It was instantly and always my feeling that this device was merely a way to "find" something that you had already been tipped off about, concerning it's location. It was a way to cover up or protect informants from retribution from the "bad guys" whom the "detector" was acting against. The "bad guys" would be less likely to be looking for informants, and just blaming their bad luck on the efficiency of this splendid detector. Not a bomb detector, but an informant protector. It might even actually deter "bad guys". They might be thinking, "Could this thing actually WORK?!"

  8. One wah is 2 metres. One square wah (tarangwah) is 4 square metres. (2x2=4)

    For surface area one uses the square wah as the unit measurement. Or square metres if you prefer. Either way the calculation is easy.

    Yards and feet should never be used here, any more than one would use miles or gallons.

    As for the 2-floor homes, there may be some confusion over the plot area, the ground area of the building and the total area over the two floors. Either way they should all be measured in square wah or square metres.

    Yep. Figure how much floor space is wasted by the staircase, and consider that you may live to be old with bad knees or hips. I like single stories. Buying a house is fun. You sound like me, eight years ago. Also, consider renting.

  9. Or, you could have a 60 meter deep 4" diameters well drilled in Chiangrai for about 60,000 baht by one of about 3 different guys here that have made a little 4" drill rig trailor with it's own engine. Or you could buy a control box at one of many pump shops that has the time delay relay and shutdown already built in. They normally use a "low flow" switch, as opposed to a "low level" switch. I had to tweak on my "low flow" switch's adjustment screws to only switch at the lowest flow rate (mine is installed right above the well hole), then no problems for 5 years now. Or you could buy one of those tiny submersible (I'm asuming you're talking the ones that go down a bored hole, and not the "cellar pump") pumps. The smaller the pump, the lower the rate, and the water inflow can better keep up with the outflow. If you're talking a shallow well, it would be better quality water if you drilled a deeper one, also. (If you want to spend the money.)

  10. When I asked PG&E (public utility in northern CA) about something like this in California, they said they needed a $1,000,000 insurance policy against possible damage to their grid. Of course, if the power pumping back to the grid is potentially less than the power used by, say, a very large aircon, I don't see any way the grid could be damaged. They just want to discourage people from the practice of cutting into their business. I think you 100% need an automatic disconnect to take you off line when it senses that the power company power is off. Otherwise you might kill a lineman doing a high voltage connection somewhere on the local distribution system (or even a 220v connection, if he thinks it should be dead). (You will pump backwards through the utility company's transformers and make high voltage too, that's how the power you make is used on the major grid.) I don't know if the workers here test for voltage and then apply temporary safety grounds when they do work, or not.

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