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Where To Buy Solar Hybrid Inverter And what to buy


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18 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

How would that work with 3 sources? 2 steps and 2 x ATS?

That would be like two 'OR' gates. I would imagine that would work, but why would you do that? what are the three sources?

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The setting you need is 14 which is for LiFePO4 batteries. You can set up the maximum charge voltage with this setting. There is probably also a default setting for this. Once you have selected t

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1 minute ago, Muhendis said:

That would be like two 'OR' gates. I would imagine that would work, but why would you do that? what are the three sources?

Grid, solar/inverter, battery. If i not misunderstood something?

 

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58 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Grid, solar/inverter, battery. If i not misunderstood something?

Not battery. AC mains supply or inverter AC output only

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Pink7 said:

 

This electronic version of the ATS is super fast (10 - 16 mS) and at around 1,500 Baht it's on a par with the electromechanical ones but it does require a supply from a battery to power it's electronics and, although electronic components are good, I would feel more secure with the slower electromechanical version.

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4 hours ago, Muhendis said:

This electronic version of the ATS is super fast (10 - 16 mS) and at around 1,500 Baht it's on a par with the electromechanical ones but it does require a supply from a battery to power it's electronics and, although electronic components are good, I would feel more secure with the slower electromechanical version.

I think you have a good point there.

 

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16 hours ago, Muhendis said:

Not battery. AC mains supply or inverter AC output only

Ok i think i got it now, im quite new on solar setups.. What type/size inverter and Charge controller you use? 

 

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46 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

What type/size inverter and Charge controller you use? 

The inverter is 8kw low frequency. Low frequency meaning 50Hz is generated electronically from the 48v input then transformed up to 220v AC. This is not the most efficient way to do it but it keeps me happy. If you choose a 48v DC battery setup be mindful of the large primary currents that can flow. I used copper bus bars 75mm^2

Charge controllers are SRNE ML 4860. The specific size of the charge controller is matched to the maximum power output of the solar panel array. 

I have uploaded my installation schematic which should answer your questions.

Installation schematic.pdf

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28 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

The inverter is 8kw low frequency. Low frequency meaning 50Hz is generated electronically from the 48v input then transformed up to 220v AC. This is not the most efficient way to do it but it keeps me happy. If you choose a 48v DC battery setup be mindful of the large primary currents that can flow. I used copper bus bars 75mm^2

Charge controllers are SRNE ML 4860. The specific size of the charge controller is matched to the maximum power output of the solar panel array. 

I have uploaded my installation schematic which should answer your questions.

Installation schematic.pdf 434.48 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks for the info and thanks for the doc. I guess i would go the 48 route either i go single components or all in one. Im sure your setup is fine, and self done is part of the fun. Its impossible to do or make something that will fit everyone's taste or meanings. There is also a sweat point where things are good enough and at a cost that make sense.

 

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Posted (edited)

Been looking around for possible 48V Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 6000w up, but no much to find online. I would think this is the heart of the system and should be a priority. Any suggestion for what and where to find?

I did see a few diy board types,,

 

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9 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Been looking around for possible 48V Pure Sine Wave Inverter 6000w up, but no much to find online. I would think this is the heart of the system and should be a priority. Any suggestion for what and where to find?

I did see a few diy board types,,

 

Pink

Have you looked at Alibaba?

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2 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

Have you looked at Alibaba?

I will now, its probably the only place i not checked, Thanks

 

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Any one tried this type of inverter pure sine wave - ( 5k and 8k Watt) Found on FB marketplace for B8000/9500 If i not misread the ad ( it was in thai)

 

 

 

Pink

184257188_3504130089812752_1430681717452060442_n.jpg

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13 hours ago, Pink7 said:

Been looking around for possible 48V Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 6000w up, but no much to find online. I would think this is the heart of the system and should be a priority. Any suggestion for what and where to find?

I did see a few diy board types,,

 

Pink

Are the hybrids not good enough ? Couple them together ( check which can do ) and you can get pretty much as high as you want . I think 10.000 watts for +/-35k will be the cheapest and easiest solution .

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29 minutes ago, sezze said:

Are the hybrids not good enough ? Couple them together ( check which can do ) and you can get pretty much as high as you want . I think 10.000 watts for +/-35k will be the cheapest and easiest solution .

Yes im looking into that too. Look like quite much for the money when buy all in one. But on the other side it remind me about buying ready built pc who some companies offer who is kind of game over when you get a issue because the whole pc must be sent to service, not only the part with issue. 

 

When it comes to all in one i like MPP solar, and consider the 8kv 48v or 2 x 5kv 48v. But i want something that last, so i consider run a all in on setup on 70-80% capacity, not maxing it out.

 

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I see combiner box was mention, if i have 2 separate lines. If i use MPP pip 8048 max, i have 2  inputs each 4000 watt max and pv input voltage upto 500v. Means its just one positive and negative wire to each input. I guess that means no combiner box?

But i need ground,  DC breakers before inverter and lightning protection.

 

Pink

 

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10 hours ago, Pink7 said:

I guess that means no combiner box?

The combiner is important for a several reasons. 

  1. It isolates each string with blocking diodes to prevent current from unshaded panels from flowing into shaded ones which can be a fire hazard.
  2. It houses a fuse for each string which is for protection and is also useful for isolating one string when working on it.
  3. It joins all the strings together into one common output.
  4. It is a good place to locate the isolator (MCB) and lightning protector.

A combiner box is not an optional thing.

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4 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

The combiner is important for a several reasons. 

  1. It isolates each string with blocking diodes to prevent current from unshaded panels from flowing into shaded ones which can be a fire hazard.
  2. It houses a fuse for each string which is for protection and is also useful for isolating one string when working on it.
  3. It joins all the strings together into one common output.
  4. It is a good place to locate the isolator (MCB) and lightning protector.

A combiner box is not an optional thing.

combiner box is something for parallel lines not serial . Serial , they not have to be combined , as they are already .  pls inform me if i'm not correct.

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27 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

The combiner is important for a several reasons. 

  1. It isolates each string with blocking diodes to prevent current from unshaded panels from flowing into shaded ones which can be a fire hazard.
  2. It houses a fuse for each string which is for protection and is also useful for isolating one string when working on it.
  3. It joins all the strings together into one common output.
  4. It is a good place to locate the isolator (MCB) and lightning protector.

A combiner box is not an optional thing.

Ok i got the idea. So i could split up each side of the roof in smaller strings for example 3-4 panels per string. 9-12 panels in serial is quite voltage level. Where would you place it? How would you buy it? in bits and pieces?

 

EDIT: If 3 strings connected as marked on the combiner box i see, they will end up as 3x parallel? with 3 times the amp..

 

Pink

Edited by Pink7
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22 minutes ago, sezze said:

combiner box is something for parallel lines not serial . Serial , they not have to be combined , as they are already .  pls inform me if i'm not correct.

Quite so.

If you only have one string then a combiner box is pointless.

This is evidenced in the schematic I posted.

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2 hours ago, Pink7 said:

3x parallel? with 3 times the amp..

Yes. and the voltage of each string should be the same (almost).

Watch out for the maximum open circuit voltage of the string. It must be less than the maximum input voltage of the charge controller.

Also the maximum power (Vmp x Imax) must be less than the maximum input power of the charge controller.

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4 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

Yes. and the voltage of each string should be the same (almost).

Watch out for the maximum open circuit voltage of the string. It must be less than the maximum input voltage of the charge controller.

Also the maximum power (Vmp x Imax) must be less than the maximum input power of the charge controller.

If i use the MPP 8k hybrid inverter it have high V (500v) limit and low A (18 amp) with 2 ports. So i think its constructed for 1 series string to each input.

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

If i use the MPP 8k hybrid inverter it have high V (500v) limit and low A (18 amp) with 2 ports. So i think its constructed for 1 series string to each input.

 

 

Pink

Can you post the specs. 

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56 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

 

HPP spec.jpg

Thanks.

The Max PV input current of 18A (each). This would limit the solar voltage to 222v (222 x 36 = 7,992W) without exceeding the max 8000W limit.

Maximum solar power input is 8kw which is probably the combined inputs. The 100v is the preferred level for MPPT working voltage, 120v or thereabouts would be fine.

120A is the absolute maximum that the device is capable of delivering to the batteries.

500V is the limit above which the device will likely become damaged. Your limit is 222v for each array input.

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10 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

Thanks.

The Max PV input current of 18A (each). This would limit the solar voltage to 222v (222 x 36 = 7,992W) without exceeding the max 8000W limit.

Maximum solar power input is 8kw which is probably the combined inputs. The 100v is the preferred level for MPPT working voltage, 120v or thereabouts would be fine.

120A is the absolute maximum that the device is capable of delivering to the batteries.

500V is the limit above which the device will likely become damaged. Your limit is 222v for each array input.

I think "each" refer to ports, not boards.

 

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On 6/4/2021 at 10:35 AM, Crossy said:

Ask if it's possible to use "Thailand Special Line" (not sure if it's mainland China only) slightly slower but all duties and VAT are included. Saved me a fair bit on our Sofar inverter from China.

 

Otherwise expect 10% duty plus 7% VAT both on the CIF value.

 

There are many flavours of hybrid, do ensure that the unit you order does what you need it to (like grid-tie with or without export).

 

Could you ellaborate  on this "Thailand Special Line" please?  We have given importing anthing as the duty is always over the top.. like 55usd for a 50usd pool light...

whist lazada and shoppy seem to bring things in with minimal mark up,,

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1 minute ago, Seeall said:

Could you ellaborate  on this "Thailand Special Line" please?  We have given importing anthing as the duty is always over the top.. like 55usd for a 50usd pool light...

whist lazada and shoppy seem to bring things in with minimal mark up,,

 

I started a thread when I was offered it as I'd never heard of it before.

 

https://forum.thaivisa.com/topic/1165517-anyone-used-evereast-special-line-shipping-china-to-thailand/

 

It came good, same shipping cost as DHL but nothing to pay on delivery.

 

I've had a number of small orders (particularly batteries) come from China but when they were delivered the origin address was in Bangkok. I suspect they've come over as a bulk lot in a container with a blanket clearance.

 

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18 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

I think "each" refer to ports, not boards.

 

Pink

From manual: 

 

PV Connection CAUTION: Before connecting to PV modules, please install separately DC circuit breakers between inverter and PV modules. NOTE1: Please use 600VDC/30A circuit breaker. NOTE2: The overvoltage category of the PV input is II. Please follow the steps below to implement PV module connection

 

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I read that inverter spec as:-

 

Minimum PV voltage 100V (lower than that and it won't start).

Maximum PV voltage 500V, open circuit (above that and it fries).

Maximum PV current 18A on each MPPT port (2 of them).

 

Overall a total of 8000W of input split between the two ports. Check your panel's VMP (max power voltage) and get them to add to 200-400V (our inverters specify a recommended MPPT voltage range). The unit will adjust for max power anyway. Check that the total VOC for your panels doesn't exceed 500V (this is probably the most important number to avoid killing your inverter).

 

EDIT

Our Trina 345W panels have:-

Max power voltage 35.4V

Max power current 7.26A

Open circuit voltage 43.2V (so you could have 11 in series on each input)

 

You could have two strings of 6 series panels in parallel on each input (14.5A and 212V) for 4140W per input.

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1 hour ago, Crossy said:

I read that inverter spec as:-

 

Minimum PV voltage 100V (lower than that and it won't start).

Maximum PV voltage 500V, open circuit (above that and it fries).

Maximum PV current 18A on each MPPT port (2 of them).

 

Overall a total of 8000W of input split between the two ports. Check your panel's VMP (max power voltage) and get them to add to 200-400V (our inverters specify a recommended MPPT voltage range). The unit will adjust for max power anyway. Check that the total VOC for your panels doesn't exceed 500V (this is probably the most important number to avoid killing your inverter).

 

EDIT

Our Trina 345W panels have:-

Max power voltage 35.4V

Max power current 7.26A

Open circuit voltage 43.2V (so you could have 11 in series on each input)

 

You could have two strings of 6 series panels in parallel on each input (14.5A and 212V) for 4140W per input.

That is my understanding to, and i think the setup suggested would be the best. 2 serial strings to each combiner box then..?

 

 

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