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Kawasaki Er6-f


Ithailian

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Got my blue today. :) Katabeachbum and I spent quite a while discussing the pros and cons of the 3 colors. I think either one of use could have switched as I think there was still at least one black and green available. After much consternation, both of us decided to stay with the blue, but agreed all 3 colors were nice. Especially the lime green, Definitely different that the aged Kawasaki green. I think what sold the blue for me was the matching rear spring. The black was nice but it didn't have enough contrast with the rest of the bike IMO. My blue still has lots of black on it so it's a win win. I love the low end torque. Like Ithalian said, very easy to maneuver around traffic. The fan turns on quickly and often. I will probably add the lower race bars as it does feel a bit too upright for me, but maybe I will get used to it. They really should have come with a bit more aggressive bars than those on the n. The insurance was 7,500 baht through Falcon.

Love the blue, but dislike the white kawa/ninja/abs stickers so they will come off

For my 180cm and 100+ kg driving position is excellent. Seat comfy. Low end power impressive for a 650. Only covered 80 km so far , so time to ride tonight. :D

KBB did I see your 650R at the airport today?

yepp, just couldnt leave it home in the garage, when I could ride to airport sunday and return tonight. Still find the Bridgestones slippery, brakes softish and engine like a v-rgin, so trying to put more miles on it. :D

I must have returned right before you. Your bike was still there. What a great ride home. It was a beautiful night after all the rain. And the traffic was behaving for once.

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Went to Krabi and back yesterday to get some run-in k's on the engine. Its amazing how quickly these engines loosen up. I could literally feel the engine getting more loose during the ride and on the way home felt like a totally different bike. 600km's and the brakes are still not quite up to scratch with the ER6n's but a considerable improvement.

I love the bike to bits for a long run, a lot less tiring than the ER6n for obvious reasons. I can't say enough praise about the tyres, these Battllax's are the best i've used (as Battlax's go) and i've had quite a few over the years, i suppose with technology and improved rubber compounds they have got a great balance. Its quite evident just by looking at the wear pattern on both my Kwaks, i'm obviously leaning the new bike a lot further over than the ER6n but that just shows how little confidence the Dunlops inspire whilst cornering.....basically they really are a <deleted> tyre, i will be changing them out asap for the Battlax tyres.

Still feeling the heat on my right lower leg but no idea why as the temp warning light never comes on and the cooling fan cuts in as normal. Its definitely NOT evident on the ER6n. Oh well having covered 600k and the engine not blown up cant be anything too serious :D

ABS feels very mechanical compared to my BMW's ABS. I stamped on the rear brake in order to lock up the rear wheel and it was quite noisy in metallic kind of way. On the BMW you dont hear a thing, but then i guess we are comparing chalk and cheese in ABS systems but that aside.....shit yeah it works mate !!! :)

Edited by Rickster
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I agree your right leg feels the heat on the 650R. I remember on my CBR 400 this happening also. Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I deduced, or maybe someone told me, that it's because the hot water/coolant comes into the radiator on the right side. And with the fairing the heat is more focused as it escapes.

A professional reviewer on youtube said the ABS was a bit mechanical also. Haven't tried it yet. only done 250K so far.

One thing I did notice is the headlights are aligned to high. And the high beams are excellent is you want to see what's in the lower branches of the trees ahead of you. Maybe I will try adjusting the rear spring to make the ass end higher.

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I agree your right leg feels the heat on the 650R. I remember on my CBR 400 this happening also. Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I deduced, or maybe someone told me, that it's because the hot water/coolant comes into the radiator on the right side. And with the fairing the heat is more focused as it escapes.

A professional reviewer on youtube said the ABS was a bit mechanical also. Haven't tried it yet. only done 250K so far.

One thing I did notice is the headlights are aligned to high. And the high beams are excellent is you want to see what's in the lower branches of the trees ahead of you. Maybe I will try adjusting the rear spring to make the ass end higher.

Is there not a lot of heat from the cat?, i'm hoping mine cools down a little with an after market can.

As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :)

Oh, i did notice on another forum that a guy had wrapped his down pipes, maybe heat reasons also..

Edited by husskydog
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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :)

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

Edited by Rickster
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I agree your right leg feels the heat on the 650R. I remember on my CBR 400 this happening also. Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I deduced, or maybe someone told me, that it's because the hot water/coolant comes into the radiator on the right side. And with the fairing the heat is more focused as it escapes.

Now that is a pretty good theory..... off i go to look at the fairing set up........ back in a moment

Yes..... totally concur with that theory. Looking at the bikes side by side you can see a cut out in the fairing where the hot air would primarily escape, especially with the ram air effect forcing it through. As with the ER6n it just goes wherever it wants as there are no restrictions as to its air flow.

Ok the hot right leg occurance is here to stay.....like it or lump it !!!! :)

Edited by Rickster
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I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

For your information, yes i do preffer the rear spring up 2 clicks as i ride 2 up 99.9% of the time, and as for the forks, well it turns in better and like i stated on a previous post, it stops a bit of helmet banging, until my bars are delivered..And yes im well aware of the adjustment on the head light FYI.... :)

MAYBE the guys at kawasaki set the lights while on a paddock stand???

:D

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KBB did I see your 650R at the airport today?

yepp, just couldnt leave it home in the garage, when I could ride to airport sunday and return tonight. Still find the Bridgestones slippery, brakes softish and engine like a v-rgin, so trying to put more miles on it. :D

I must have returned right before you. Your bike was still there. What a great ride home. It was a beautiful night after all the rain. And the traffic was behaving for once.

Yeah, great ride home Scuba. 10 pm, crisp, clear, sensible traffic. A bit cold with slippers, tshirt and shorts, so kept max 120 kmh. Time to get some riding gear :)

Been at kwaker phuket today to complete paperworks for bike, but forgot to order silver stickers from the black bike to install on plasma blue. Excuse for another ride tomorrow :D 240 km locally in 3 ridingdays and counting :D:D

Anyone know what the tyres airpressure is supposed to be?

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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :)

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I didn't meant to suggest this as the solution to high headlights. I was planning to make the adjustment to the suspension as others here have suggested anyway, I just though that in doing so it might also have the effect of properly aligning the headlights. I haven't looked closely at them but I am sure they can adjust the headlights down a bit at the garage.

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KBB did I see your 650R at the airport today?

yepp, just couldnt leave it home in the garage, when I could ride to airport sunday and return tonight. Still find the Bridgestones slippery, brakes softish and engine like a v-rgin, so trying to put more miles on it. :D

I must have returned right before you. Your bike was still there. What a great ride home. It was a beautiful night after all the rain. And the traffic was behaving for once.

Yeah, great ride home Scuba. 10 pm, crisp, clear, sensible traffic. A bit cold with slippers, tshirt and shorts, so kept max 120 kmh. Time to get some riding gear :D

Been at kwaker phuket today to complete paperworks for bike, but forgot to order silver stickers from the black bike to install on plasma blue. Excuse for another ride tomorrow :D 240 km locally in 3 ridingdays and counting :D:D

Anyone know what the tyres airpressure is supposed to be?

Shit I been so busy with everything I totally forgot to go in today!! :) I'll try tomorrow.

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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :D

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

There are at least 2 things LOS car- and bike dealers never do, but are supposed to do according to manufactorers service manual: adjust lights and tyre pressure.

So whats the tyre pressure supposed to be?

Kinda like the high beam in the top of the palm trees :):D

Putting out the fire with gasoline, thats David Bowie man :D

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I agree your right leg feels the heat on the 650R. I remember on my CBR 400 this happening also. Maybe I am stating the obvious, but I deduced, or maybe someone told me, that it's because the hot water/coolant comes into the radiator on the right side. And with the fairing the heat is more focused as it escapes.

The heat is nothing compared to my VTX 1800 v-twin, also liquidcooled. That was a b-llheater in town :)

But its clearly more focused on a faired bike, just remove leg from tank when standstill and let it escape

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Went to Krabi and back yesterday to get some run-in k's on the engine. Its amazing how quickly these engines loosen up. I could literally feel the engine getting more loose during the ride and on the way home felt like a totally different bike. 600km's and the brakes are still not quite up to scratch with the ER6n's but a considerable improvement.

I love the bike to bits for a long run, a lot less tiring than the ER6n for obvious reasons. I can't say enough praise about the tyres, these Battllax's are the best i've used (as Battlax's go) and i've had quite a few over the years, i suppose with technology and improved rubber compounds they have got a great balance. Its quite evident just by looking at the wear pattern on both my Kwaks, i'm obviously leaning the new bike a lot further over than the ER6n but that just shows how little confidence the Dunlops inspire whilst cornering.....basically they really are a <deleted> tyre, i will be changing them out asap for the Battlax tyres.

Still feeling the heat on my right lower leg but no idea why as the temp warning light never comes on and the cooling fan cuts in as normal. Its definitely NOT evident on the ER6n. Oh well having covered 600k and the engine not blown up cant be anything too serious :D

ABS feels very mechanical compared to my BMW's ABS. I stamped on the rear brake in order to lock up the rear wheel and it was quite noisy in metallic kind of way. On the BMW you dont hear a thing, but then i guess we are comparing chalk and cheese in ABS systems but that aside.....shit yeah it works mate !!! :)

Got a question on the fairing - how much difference does it make - no one seems to discussed this much.

I find after about 130/140 i defineatly feel the wind on the ER6n with standard bars.

I noticed when i was checking the 650 out in Surat the the wind screen is not flush at the front where it meets the fairing body - does it allow cool air over you when you are ridng or it is just for show.

when i bought my er6n it had a fan problem. trust me if the red overheating light comes on you will find the bike is ***ing hot and the coolant resivoir will empty in a matter of seconds - these bike run hot! - i was never given a reason why my fan packed up - they just installed a new one and said nothing!

cheers Kevin

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Thanks Rickster.

Do they come with manuals? hehehe

Yes but not much use as in Thai !!! I did however ask the small sales bloke there (forgot his name) about manuals in English but he said no have...... Oh well it gets the missus an excuse to learn about bikes i guess :)

Edited by Rickster
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Thanks Rickster.

Do they come with manuals? hehehe

Yes but not much use as in Thai !!! I did however ask the small sales bloke there (forgot his name) about manuals in English but he said no have...... Oh well it gets the missus an excuse to learn about bikes i guess :)

English manuals will be here in the next month or two. Ride On! Tony

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Went to Krabi and back yesterday to get some run-in k's on the engine. Its amazing how quickly these engines loosen up. I could literally feel the engine getting more loose during the ride and on the way home felt like a totally different bike. 600km's and the brakes are still not quite up to scratch with the ER6n's but a considerable improvement.

I love the bike to bits for a long run, a lot less tiring than the ER6n for obvious reasons. I can't say enough praise about the tyres, these Battllax's are the best i've used (as Battlax's go) and i've had quite a few over the years, i suppose with technology and improved rubber compounds they have got a great balance. Its quite evident just by looking at the wear pattern on both my Kwaks, i'm obviously leaning the new bike a lot further over than the ER6n but that just shows how little confidence the Dunlops inspire whilst cornering.....basically they really are a <deleted> tyre, i will be changing them out asap for the Battlax tyres.

Still feeling the heat on my right lower leg but no idea why as the temp warning light never comes on and the cooling fan cuts in as normal. Its definitely NOT evident on the ER6n. Oh well having covered 600k and the engine not blown up cant be anything too serious :D

ABS feels very mechanical compared to my BMW's ABS. I stamped on the rear brake in order to lock up the rear wheel and it was quite noisy in metallic kind of way. On the BMW you dont hear a thing, but then i guess we are comparing chalk and cheese in ABS systems but that aside.....shit yeah it works mate !!! :)

Got a question on the fairing - how much difference does it make - no one seems to discussed this much.

I find after about 130/140 i defineatly feel the wind on the ER6n with standard bars.

I noticed when i was checking the 650 out in Surat the the wind screen is not flush at the front where it meets the fairing body - does it allow cool air over you when you are ridng or it is just for show.

when i bought my er6n it had a fan problem. trust me if the red overheating light comes on you will find the bike is ***ing hot and the coolant resivoir will empty in a matter of seconds - these bike run hot! - i was never given a reason why my fan packed up - they just installed a new one and said nothing!

cheers Kevin

I can't compare to the n I only ridden the F, but I would call the wind protection phenomenal. It will be even better when I get the sport bars. Others on here have said that it is a huge difference.

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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :D

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

There are at least 2 things LOS car- and bike dealers never do, but are supposed to do according to manufactorers service manual: adjust lights and tyre pressure.

So whats the tyre pressure supposed to be?

Kinda like the high beam in the top of the palm trees :D:D

Putting out the fire with gasoline, thats David Bowie man :D

Went to the Phuket dealer today to finish docs. I had them adjust the headlights. I felt quite stupid when the mechanic simply turned the handle bars to one side, reached in, and twisted a little nob on the back of the light to adjust it in about 10 seconds. Derrrr. I asked for an oil change at 300kms and they refused. :D Bring it back at 1000 they said. :)

Still two black and one green 650R left, and some 2010 ER6n's ABS in black and green at 245k. Looks like they also got some Phantoms and Vulcuns 900's in. There is also a 2009 ZX-10 they have had for a while priced at about 600,000 I think.

Edited by Scubabuddha
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Went to the Phuket dealer today to finish docs. I had them adjust the headlights. I felt quite stupid when the mechanic simply turned the handle bars to one side, reached in, and twisted a little nob on the back of the light to adjust it in about 10 seconds. Derrrr. I asked for an oil change at 300kms and they refused. :D Bring it back at 1000 they said. :)

Um... what's up with that?! You're the paying customer- tell the F*****s to change your dam_n oil and filter- highly recommended to change early during the run in!

Still two black and one green 650R left, and some 2010 ER6n's ABS in black and green at 245k. Looks like they also got some Phantoms and Vulcuns 900's in. There is also a 2009 ZX-10 they have had for a while priced at about 600,000 I think. (650,000 actually) :D

I find the fairing on the Ninja 650R makes a HUGE difference over the naked ER6n. I really don't feel the speed as much on the Ninja 650R since I'm not getting beat up by the wind like I am on the ER6n. A little surprised though about the way the fairings on the Ninja 650R direct the heat right on to my knees and legs. The Ninja 650R actually feels hotter than the ER6n- I notice it most when in traffic with the cooling fan on.

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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :D

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

There are at least 2 things LOS car- and bike dealers never do, but are supposed to do according to manufactorers service manual: adjust lights and tyre pressure.

So whats the tyre pressure supposed to be?

Kinda like the high beam in the top of the palm trees :D:D

Putting out the fire with gasoline, thats David Bowie man :D

Went to the Phuket dealer today to finish docs. I had them adjust the headlights. I felt quite stupid when the mechanic simply turned the handle bars to one side, reached in, and twisted a little nob on the back of the light to adjust it in about 10 seconds. Derrrr. I asked for an oil change at 300kms and they refused. :D Bring it back at 1000 they said. :)

Still two black and one green 650R left, and some 2010 ER6n's ABS in black and green at 245k. Looks like they also got some Phantoms and Vulcuns 900's in. There is also a 2009 ZX-10 they have had for a while priced at about 600,000 I think.

Great Scuba, now we know how to adjust headlights. Gonna miss the high beam in the top of the palmtrees though :D

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As for the lights same here, 2 clicks up on the rear spring and 1" (now) down on the forks helps but still slightly to high... :D

I dont think adjusting the rear suspension to lower the headlight beam is a sensible thing to do, unless of course that particlar suspension setting suits better. Its more of a quick fix rather than the prefered solution......which is????? No fcking idea.... however, i believe there must be an adjustment screw somewhere, no??

Its actually makes more sense to drop the front forks 10mm through the yolk trees as some other poster mentioned for better handling, lower ride height and subsequently lower light beam. Basically what i'm saying is i'm buggered if i'm gonna alter a prefered rear suspension setting just to get the headlight beam correct...kinda like putting out a fire with gasoline !!!

www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0310_headlight_aiming/index.html

There are at least 2 things LOS car- and bike dealers never do, but are supposed to do according to manufactorers service manual: adjust lights and tyre pressure.

So whats the tyre pressure supposed to be?

Kinda like the high beam in the top of the palm trees :):D

Putting out the fire with gasoline, thats David Bowie man :D

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Everything is relative. I'm finding the windscreen on the Ninja 650 annoying as it directs all the wind right at helmet level... with the Ninja 250, the wind stream seemed to hit me lower in the chest more which was less tiring.

Hey I see your sobered up! lol I am almost.

I noticed that too. I hope the sport bars will help that.

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Everything is relative. I'm finding the windscreen on the Ninja 650 annoying as it directs all the wind right at helmet level... with the Ninja 250, the wind stream seemed to hit me lower in the chest more which was less tiring.

Fortunately there are lots of aftermarket screens available for the Ninja 650R. Aeromax (Ermax) makes a nice looking double bubble-style screen-

UploadImagesaeromax.jpg

You might want to ask Bob where he go that MRA screen on his bike.

I've got another friend who installed one of these MRA Vario Touring Screens on his FZ1 and he loves it-

9852-425x350.jpg

You gonna make it for the piss-up this afternoon?

Ride On!

Tony

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I had the unfortunate chance to try out my ABS today. I'm in the left lane of two lanes, cars/ trucks pack the right lane; young, helmetless and clueless Somchai is driving slowly along on his Honda Dream on the right side of my lane directly in front of me. My only option past is to undertake him on the left. Of course he decides it's time to beer up and pulls left across in front of me, no signal of course. I panic brake and drift left to avoid him which puts me into the sand covered asphalt. Both front and rear ABS kick in. I manage to stay up. Somchai gives me a surprised look as we nearly come together. Also proving I really need that 2 Bros. exhaust!! I also need to slow down. The 650R is so agile and forgiving, and the Battlax tires so sticky, it can lead to overconfidence.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I think that closes the ABS or no-ABS case! Glad the force was with you Scubba. I agree with everything you said, including the need for a louder pipe.

Yeah I think I am sold on the ABS.

Yeah, me too. done 700km by now, and tryed out some hard breaking. rear abs kicks in rather soon, but not before traction is lost.

Front abs does not kick in during hard braking on dry paved road, only when traction is lost. Both work with rather hard pulses, like Bosch 20 years ago, but thats ok on a bike. They could have had faster frequensies too, but just accept its not state of the art abs. Seems to be a combo of 3 manufactorers, denso electronics, Nissin and Tokico, all LOS made.

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I think that closes the ABS or no-ABS case! Glad the force was with you Scubba. I agree with everything you said, including the need for a louder pipe.

Yeah I think I am sold on the ABS.

Yeah, me too. done 700km by now, and tryed out some hard breaking. rear abs kicks in rather soon, but not before traction is lost.

Front abs does not kick in during hard braking on dry paved road, only when traction is lost. Both work with rather hard pulses, like Bosch 20 years ago, but thats ok on a bike. They could have had faster frequensies too, but just accept its not state of the art abs. Seems to be a combo of 3 manufactorers, denso electronics, Nissin and Tokico, all LOS made.

Yep, you're an expert! :)

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