Death Rode… (no, Not A Typo)

[Rotweiler]

One of the most popular “things to have done” for motorcyclists visiting the Kingdom is the run from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai along Highway 118. The route is senic, lots of mountains to cross, narrow and very curvy in spots, with the widest section of the road in the Wiang Pa Pao Valley from the Mae Kachan Hot Springs to Wiang Pa Pao Town.

The long (almost) straight stretch between Mae Kachan and Wiang Pa Pao is considered a speed test section by many bikers who push their bikes to speeds they are unable to achieve in the more curvy sections of the route - perhaps even speeds they are unaccustomed to even in their home countries.

Each year a number of fatal accidents occur along this route, but this year has seen an especially high toll in both fatal and injury accidents. While the route may be relatively straight and the highway’s 4 lanes along much of the Valley, it also has the usual issues that plague many Thai highways – traffic that enters the highway regardless of the oncoming traffic; tour buses and light trucks passing slower vehicles regardless of traffic in the other lanes. And of course, the route suffers from the usual number of drunk drivers, especially in the evenings.

In recent weeks, within a few km from where we live, there have been five fatal accidents, 4 single fatalities, and one multiple. In all except one, motorcycles were involved, and as expected, the cyclists got the worst of the accident.

Please, if you intent to drive the route (and please do – it is a great ride!), SLOW DOWN – especially in the evenings! Wiang Pa Pao DOES have a hospital or sorts, but I wouldn’t depend on it for treatment of any major injuries. Since Wiang Pa Pao is almost exactly half way between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, the ambulance trip to a major hospital will be long – often too long for the severely injured cyclist.

I wrote this originally three days ago (Jan 3rd) after another fatal accident on Highway 118 just 500m from our home. There was another, this time non-fatal accident just an hour ago, in the same general area of the highway – seems a little girl on her bicycle entered the highway without checking (the usual method) and the on-coming motorcyclist - in the left-hand lane - lost control and ended up 200 meters into a rice field. It was his luck there just happened to be no buildings or light standards there. The girl was uninjured. The cycle driver will survive. Many others have not. Many more will not in the future.

Will you?

[SeanMoran]

Thanks for the advice mate.

I seem to have Chiang Rai on my itinery for the trek next month, and shall keep highway 118 in mind as a good road not to let become the end of the 'rode' if I do end up detouring towards Chiang Mai for a stopover.

Speed that takes one's braking distance beyond visibility can be a reminder that what we cannot see can hurt us, and this is most dangerous after the Sun has set. Riding a motorbike after dark on roads that one is not completely familiar with in Thailand is asking for an unexpected end of the 'rode' IMHO.

Thanks for the advice on the prospective traps for new riders up north.

[alant]

good info, especially the bit about traffic entering the road and passing whatever, wherever even in the "bendy bits" in pouring rain i have found, hope people read your advice

[mcgriffith]

Just came over that road (not for the first time) coming into CM from Phayao about 2 weeks ago.

It is a very tempting road to go fast on. As noted, some of the big 10 wheelers really do some amazing speeds coming down, both sides.

Saw a huge wreck on the Phayao side of a massive truck loaded with bags of god only knows- fertilizer?

Got some on my lower fairing- it ate away the paint!

Keep safe out there, people.

[Trickcyclist]

Advice from Thai friend: don't drive at night and don't drive in the rain. Add to the two together and almost certain calamity.

[Flatouthruthefog]

Advice from Thai friend: don't drive at night and don't drive in the rain. Add to the two together and almost certain calamity.

Good advice but often impossible, practically speaking.

I am a regular on this route on 4 wheels and would add that the 'interesting' bendy bits south of Wiang Papao Hot Springs are ESPECIALLY slippy when wet.

Not sure why. It's not an obvious drainage problem, but many experienced folk have come a cropper here. Specially bikers and drivers of pick ups with loads of power and no weight at the back.

[Ajarnmai]

Advice from Thai friend: don't drive at night and don't drive in the rain. Add to the two together and almost certain calamity.

Good advice but often impossible, practically speaking.

I am a regular on this route on 4 wheels and would add that the 'interesting' bendy bits south of Wiang Papao Hot Springs are ESPECIALLY slippy when wet.

Not sure why. It's not an obvious drainage problem, but many experienced folk have come a cropper here. Specially bikers and drivers of pick ups with loads of power and no weight at the back.

I can second that advice. A couple of years ago, during a light rain, I was driving my Pick up south of the hot springs. In a turn, I lost my traction and ended up with my truck flipping on its side... No injuries, thank god, but this is what my truck looked like.. My first accident in 25 years of driving in Thailand.

[mcgriffith]

Sometimes you'll see a yellow diamond shaped sign, with the international symbol for slippery conditions. Sometimes not.

One thing I've learned, in several decades of touring on motorbikes (which by very limited tire surface area are inherently very sensitive to this effect), is that road surfaces are created with a very complex amalgam of ingredients.

Once in north Italy, I was in a group that had been tootling along at a rather brisk pace.

The lead rider/guide had warned us earlier in the morning that there was one section of road that had a bit of fine river rock mixed in with the macadam, that was particularly slippery. Looked exactly the same as the previous road section.

People were all crossed up; general craziness for a bit in this section. Then after, perfect traction.

Had nothing to do with oil, or moisture, or surface heat.

Some roads are just constructed (in sections) with ingredients which don't offer good traction, no matter the weather conditions.