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campyk
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Posts posted by campyk
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2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:
I don’t know where you are getting your information from but you are wrong, all my ABB MCBs are “Input Voltage Type: AC/DC”, Schneider are no different and yes of course you have to be concerned with DC leakage.
As that is “Method A enclosed in enclosed in thermally wall or in insulating wall” and AAC blocks are thermally insulating naturally that is the one to use.
ABB:
https://shop.bangkokab.com/products/2CSR275051R1164
https://shop.bangkokab.com/products/2CSR256040R1164
https://shop.bangkokab.com/products/2CSR255051R1164
Schneider:
There are also Siemens and others but only AC type.
If your RCBO's are A+ type could you share which models did you use?
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1. In this article RCD types explained it says that any electronics or inverter motors will potentially leak DC current into your AC network and blind AC type RCD's.
They are obsolete and even are prohibited to use in some countries.
In Thailand on the other hand one would struggle to find a top brand RCD other than type AC.
Can someone clarify whether DC current leakage is a real issue with average domestic installation? Eg. lots of led lighting, computer, laptops, inverter AC's, fridge, induction hob etc.
Is it worth getting mid-range Chinese type A or B RCD's instead of top brand (ABB, Schneider) type AC ones?
What if I plan to go solar? Does it change things?
2. Another question I have is related to sizing breakers.
I'm going to use reference method A (first column). Is it correct for wires in conduit running through AAC blocks?
3. Should we cover wire capacity from the table with (1) breaker nominal rating or with (2) breaker tolerance rating of 113% or 145%?
Does it change with planned continuous vs noncontinuous load?
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2 hours ago, Crossy said:
1. The current ratings of your board are per-phase. Do note that the actual rating of the main incoming MCCB will be determined by the size of the supply being provided by MEA/PEA.
2. I would wire the heater in 4mm2 on a 32A 3-phase breaker. A 20A is just a bit close when the heater is running at full power.
3. There isn't any "leftover current", what you will end up with is one element running at full power with two others running in series at about 25% full power each.
4. I would always buy branded MCCB/MCB for the main supply, similarly for your RCD/RCBOs.
SPDs tend to be expensive from the brand names and you don't necessarily get value for money.
5. Main breaker will be 3-pole, you don't usually switch the neutral on a 3-phase install.
6. It's called TNC-S (MEN) as the neutral is grounded on every 3rd pole as well as by the rod on your property. It's a standard install here.
Thanks a lot! Everything is much clearer now.
I just got a reply from ABB seller from bangkokab.com and it seems these boards only support Formula A1 range devices which is very limited and exclusive of 4-pole RCBO's, SPD's and any other line-up devices, not to mention any other third-party devices like relays, timers, etc.
Is it possible that board with a din rail mounting would be butchered to such a degree? Is that because of unremovable (non-standard?) connectors?
3. There isn't any "leftover current", what you will end up with is one element running at full power with two others running in series at about 25% full power each.
The wiring scheme looks like there are 3 separate 1-phase heating elements. If it's correct, what type of dedicated RCBO would I need to use here?
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Hi guys!
I've got a few questions regarding a new 3-phase system setup if you don't mind.
Edit: I've just posted and see that there are too many questions and different topics. Should I divide it into several threads?
1. We plan to get an ABB distribution board
https://shop.bangkokab.com/products/DB48MC200And in specs it says:
Rated current:
(busbar) 200 A
(outgoing) 100 A
How much power you can pull out of this board?
Is that amount per phase? As a breaker size of 200A? Which corresponds to 200+200+200? Or do I get it wrong?
Outgoing 100A per circuit, per phase or something else?In other words, will it be enough for a 3 phase 30(100) connection?
2. We are going to install a 3-phase heater from Stiebel Eltron. It is 13kw - just below 20 Amp heater. (See wiring and specs attached)
In the manual it says that the recommended fuse/breaker is 20 Amp.
Our electrician has ordered (from us as we buy stuff by ourselves) a 10mm² copper wire.
His reasoning is: 3 phase wires should be thick, because 13kw is a lot. And he is scared that wires are going to burn.
In my understanding 20 Amp 3 phase is still 20 Amp and could use 2.5 or 4mm² wire. Otherwise why would manufacturer recommend 20Amp breaker? To protect what?
I've even asked an electrical shop owner about this and his recommendation was the same: 10mm².
Am I wrong here? What is the correct approach in sizing a 3 phase resistive appliance's wire?3. Regarding the same heater. We've been told by service hotline support that it can work on 2 phases in the case of 1 phase failure but will deliver lower heating output.
In the case of 3 phases the current cancels out and doesn't need a neutral. But what happens with 2 phases that are 120 degrees apart? Wiring of the heater is 4 poles: 3 phases + ground. Would there be leftover current? Where would it go? Would it be safe to use the heater in this situation? Would it trip the RCBO?4. Your opinion on value-oriented brands of rcd, spd etc.
Are cheaper brands worth buying? Do they work according to specs and are they reliable?
Talking about something like this:
https://shopee.co.th/product/143634292/6053181212?smtt=0.202956878-1666633208.9
Or this
https://shopee.co.th/product/303694660/6857925121?smtt=0.202956878-1666636473.9
Safe-T-Cut? CCS? Suntree? Nano?
They cost around 1000 baht for 3 phase SPD while ABB's cost 10000. ???? What's the difference if the specs are same?5. Main breaker 3 or 4 poles?
6. How Thais call TNC-S system? Is it a standard system now or something new to Thailand?
Really sorry for the barrage of questions. I would really love to hear some suggestions though ????
Will be glad to thank contributors with a beer or two or another drink ????
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Does anyone have a decent inexpensive builder recommendation in Easter Seaboard area? Chonburi, Rayong etc.
Our previous builder ran off with about 200k. He has left things like this just before monsoon.
Want to continue building asap ????
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3 hours ago, campyk said:
It seems it’s pretty cheap for a reason. They cover only up to $20k per lifetime in case of “dread” disease in their bottom 3 plans. Is it same insurer/policy? I found this table at https://www.healthcareinternational.com/medical-plans-usd
Sorry i found a refutation to my words. It seems this clause is only about palliative treatments. Which makes this policy pretty nice to have (and to pay for) i guess.
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3 hours ago, simon43 said:
I just renewed my policy with Healthcare International, (a UK policy).
I have their ''lowest' policy. But it still provides about 16.5 million baht medical cover each year, plus emergency medical evacuation (I work in Myanmar, so that's a definite requirement).
$915 USD per annum ==> about 2,500 THB per month. I'm 59 years old.It seems it’s pretty cheap for a reason. They cover only up to $20k per lifetime in case of “dread” disease in their bottom 3 plans. Is it same insurer/policy? I found this table at https://www.healthcareinternational.com/medical-plans-usd
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Types of RCD's and breaker size
in The Electrical Forum
Posted
What you are missing is that a current carrying capacity is directly dependent on the ability of the wire to dissipate heat.
So Thailand installation in the case of insulated wall and +40 C° would be very different from Germany with reference temperature +25 C° (idk what installation method is used in the table).