djtheoz

On 7/11/2023 at 3:28 PM, Yellowtail said:

Are you doing it yourself? 

 

How many doors will you have to trim? 

One teak wood door. And yes will do most of it myself.  

5 hours ago, chickenslegs said:

This was used for tile on tile in our bathroom.

https://www.jorakay.co.th/en/tiling/tile-adhesive/silver-crocodile-tile-adhesive

 

As far as I know, no primer was used.

 

No issues 4 years later.

 

Edit to add: Seem to recall that they scored the old tiles, using an angle grinder, before laying the new ones.

Product specs look promising, thank you very much for the tip.  
Prepping the old tiles with the angle grinder I prefer to avoid for not getting so much dust, but well, a man can not have everything... 

20 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Lazada has has tile primers.

Not much found, I've noticed the Nippon Tile Primer  at Thaiwatsadu and Lazada, but this seems more a primer to paint over?
Or would this also be suitable to bond a cement based adhesive for tiles?

5 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRYDEa-pDM

:) Watched a lot of his videos already, and yes.. that stuff. 

Hi all!
Looking for a primer, or another proper Thai solution , to prep a ready tiled floor for installing a new tile layer on top of the old tiles. 
Something like MAPEI Eco Prim Grip or similar. 

Current floor was installed properly, flat, level and decent, but the tile layout is absolutely hideous...
Take out the existing floor tiles first, and start from scratch seems a lot more work. 
I've looked at Thaiwatsadu, Homepro, DoHome, Homesukkapan and Global House but couldn't quite find something suitable. 

Any recommendations what and where to look for ? 
Thanks in advance for tips!
 
 

22 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Nice house! I'd look at the SCG (or similar) cement board flooring. 

 

If you have an SCG Home Store (they are everywhere) you might go down and talk to them, they can reccomend what to seal it with. 

 

I would use two layers and stagger the sheets such that the seams do not line up. 

 

 

Thank you! Yes.. for sure a nice house.. with its charming never ending time consuming surprises  . 

Thanks for the tips! 
 
 

7 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Existing is all concrete, yes? If so, do you own or rent?

Renting I'd do it on the cheap "freestanding" with steel frame & smartboard walls and roof. 

Owning I'd drive piles and pour concrete,

Thanks for your replies. 
Yes, we own the house. See picture. Sorry didn't make proper drawings yet to get an idea. 

The extension will come where the wheelbarrow is; 

Concrete frame of columns and beams, filled with red brick walls, as also is the existing building.

Looking for a easier and lighter alternative to a solid concrete slab on top.

There is these pre-fab concrete panels of ~60 x 400 cm I have seen the Thai using for flooring on top of concrete frames but can't reach it with a crane to lift them up high.
Hence the thought for a solution with smart boards with TOA 201.  

Yes...so basically a 4 x 4 x 4 m cube connected to a 2-floor building , inside as kitchen extension on ground floor, on top as terrace for the second floor. 

The roof of the main building overhangs about a meter from the facade/wall , and can not be extended to also cover the terrace.  
So the terrace needs to drain all rain water coming on it, similar to TS's flat roofed house.  
Difference is limited hours direct sunlight on the terrace (shadow side of the house). 

Considering to create a 'warm roof' construction with (smart board +insulation+ smart board) and seal it with the TOA 201 as roof covering in the picture below.

 

Been reading this topic with much interest as I'm planning to extend our kitchen space on ground floor with its ceiling to become a roof terrace, accessed via the second floor. 

Don't see much bitumen-like solutions available here up North, nor membranes, to seal the terrace properly.  

Any thoughts here on (several layers) of TOA 201 acrylic roof sealer, applied directly on the top deck ?

A top deck surface of smart/cement boards, or solid concrete deck?

Seems to be stay flexible, resistant to high temperature and water tight for at least a few years (maintenance required, OK) ,  not very expensive and even available in different colors. 

https://www.toagroup.com/en/products/construction-chemicals/water-proofing/32/toa-201-roofseal
 

Serious option, or no way? 

  

This is not news. This tragedy is known for ages. I've witnessed the horror many times now.
And yet people feel safe with a paper mask on their face, sitting alone in their car or on their motorbike.

Priorities. 

Just realising the boxes are too small to add the extras...will get a bigger  box ☺️

Thanks for tips so far.

DIN solution seems more interesting to add an over/under voltage & surge protection and a VU-meter.
A setup with all rcbo's from ABB or Siemens would be great, but is way over budget.

But, if it’s worth it, safety has to come first. Just more noodle soups need to be sold ????
Unfortunately I'm not able to check out things in Thailand myself due to covid, though the misses needs some direction and get material.

All replies very much appreciated , thank you for your time!

Consider these two setups -  which would you choose for your house, and why (not) ?

Setup 1 – Only RCBO with NANO Plus (Thai brand & make) ~ Total 4.905 B
1 x Nano Consumer unit 16U metal (type CUO14 ) = 472 B.
1 x Nano MCB / Mains 2P-63A (type PMD42C63) = 83 B. 

2 x Nano RCBO 32A (type PLE31C32) = 870 B
8 x Nano RCBO 16A (type PLE31C16) = 3.480 B

Anyone has experience with this brand? I only used it for junction boxes before..

Mostly when it seems to good to be true.. it is..

Setup 2 – Split circuit with ABB (German brand, China make) ~Total 8.840 B.
1 x ABB Consumer unit 16U (type SCP16) = 2.300 B.

1 x ABB MCB/ Mains 2P-63A (type S202M-63C) = 750 B.

2 x ABB RCD 63A (type FH202AC-63) = 4.600 B

2 x ABB MCB 32A (type SH201-C32) = 238 B.

8 x ABB MCB 16A (type SH201-C16) = 952 B.

The 32A groups are wired with 2x4/2,5 sqmm, others with 2x2,5/1,5 sqmm.

We’re on a single phase 15(45) kWh meter connection.

Welll.... we did change our mind. ????

The  two 6 or 8 kW tankless heaters would draw too much current from our single phase 15(45) connection. Need some capacity for other devices..
Instead, we will try central heating with a Stiebel Eltron EVS100, electric tank heater 100 liter on 2 kW.
Has its disadvantages too, I guess but wth, let's try. 

A pressure pump and large outdoor storage tank will most likely be added in the future.

Reading several other threads on this forum about this RCBO's , I even see Chinese stuff from Ali Express coming by as OK to use... ?
For my old fashioned brains this seems a big no-no but pardon my ignorance...
I understand people can be brand-favored and will be happy spending twice the amount no matter how good the other brand is..  

But IS there a significant safety/quality difference that explains the price difference? 
 

Thanks all guys, learned a lot by your responses. We made our choices.

For water heating - we will add an extra local multipoint heater, each bathroom a 6kW.
Electric wire it with 2x6 sqmm so we can upgrade to 8 kW if needed, later on. 
The main power supply will be challenged, but let's see how it works out in every day use.

For water distribution - we will do all with Thai PP-R greens. 
Bought most at Nanaphatanakit on Lazada. Best prices we've seen and good service! 
All tubes in 3/4" and at the filter trunk in 1", might do a little good covering friction loss, lets see. 
Used as little Tee's and 90-Elbows as possible, mostly 2 x 45-Elbows for corners.

For filtering, we got a big Stiebel Eltron PS, just for keeping dirt out of the system.
Might add extra carbon filtering ACB in the future.

Cheers!
 

58 minutes ago, carlyai said:

 

They don't have a DIN rail, so you have to buy their circuit breakers.

Both the Schneider and NANO examples are plug-on type breakers for use in their own CU series. Haven't compared the DIN mounted series yet... 
Both brands seem to comply with the IEC standards. 
Just wondering what the more-than-twice the price for the same functionality is caused by.
 

Hi there folks, 

working on a new consumer unit in the house and noticed a sigificant price difference in e.g. Schneider or ABB components with for example NANO components. 
For example a Schneider 32A RCBO (859B) compared to a NANO 32A RCBO (377B). 

Or a 14 slot CU from Schneider S9HCL114 (1.365B) compared to a NANO PCU12 (624B). Ok, 2 slots less, but half the price?

Is this difference because of added import taxes on the Schneider components or is the quality in NANO just lower and significantly less safe?
E.g.. why would one NOT pick the cheaper brands? Any thoughts?

20 hours ago, canopy said:

Multi-point LPG can provide ample heat effortlessly like say units from Rinnai.

Thanks for your responses Canopy. Where would I find a unit like this? Similar to boilers like these?
6500Watts too little... so much energy and yet max 36^oC ... wow. crazy too cold. Even for my farang butt!

On 11/25/2020 at 12:59 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Do everything in PP-R.

- PP-R for both hot and cold - check. Will do this. We'll put pipes in the walls behind tiles so don't want to risk joint failures.. 
Upscaling diameter of pipes, at least in the storage room when splitting all directions. noted! thanks.
Will also use  45^o  angles only to minimize friction.

- Would the main water filter be disturbing the water flow in such system? 

32 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

If you want to do it right why use PVC at all? Do everything in PP-R. Ensure that you have the hot water PP-R for your hot supply.

our mains supply is ½” everything after is 32mm PP-R, and virtually every bend is a 45^o using 2 for a 90^o degree turn

Thanks sir for your reply - I honestly didnt even think about to do all in PP-R yet.. would you say it's worth the extra costs? Good point though.
Doesn't it lower your water pressure with 32mm ?? Or using tank with pump to buffer?

Super handy set of practical words . Quite motivated to remember these ????  Thanks !!

Hi there good people. We now have the opportunity to modernize the water system and bathroom setups at GF's house. 
We think to install a multi point heater and do the plumbing  "right", simple but sustainable for the years to come.
As most sales people only preach what they sell and dont give me confidence making the right choice, your experienced input would be greatly appreciated!

The idea - see first picture - supply coming into the house on 1/2" pipe (straight from street source no active tank/pump (yet), usually good pressure), in to a Household Water Filter, then split to different rooms.

- Bathroom 1st floor : bathtub/shower and wall basin sink, both mixer taps.
- Bathroom 2nd floor : shower and a wall basin sink. Also mixer taps, no thermostat mixers. 
- Aiming to plumb the warm with green PP-R 1/2" Eco pipes. Cold water with regular blue 1/2" pvc pipes.
- Total length green pipes approx 15 meter

- Thinking about a 6kW heater (MEX Centri 6R )
- Electric wire 3 x 6 mm2 , grouped with washing machine, to switch 32A in the box, about 8 meters from the water heater
- Kitchen is to be renovated too, but not expecting to use hot water there.
- Should be able to shower both upstairs and downstairs simultaneously
- Dont want lobstering the one , when the other closes their warm water tap.
- Location house in Pai, Mae Hong Son. Chilly outside temp these months but not too bad.  

* Would you think the diagram is sufficient - am I overlooking things? Would you do things different, and why?
* Thoughts on the input filter ? 
* Would the Eco PP-R be OK or strongly recommeded to use the more expensive series?
* Would 6KW be enough power? 
* Any thoughts on the MEX heater - maybe alternatives more recommended?

This post is for supply water only - for waste watering and second picture I'll post another topic later.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!!

I asked this question to an immigration officer in Mae Hong Son. He replied; this issue has two interpretations ; the human side (helping your own family to survive) and the act of work. It will depend on the officer coming in your shop which side he will choose to see. If they want you, you’re out. 

I think all is sorted out now.

Crazy enough, when rewiring the earth to neutral input link inside the breaker box, i found the ass** didn't even strip the wire before putting it to the earth bar. So not a wrong connection, but no connection at all.. double bad.

Would have been an attempted murder if happened by a certified installer in my own country. But ey, amazing Thailand needs solid reasons to be amazing.

The greatest challenge to me now is how to confront 'the artist' with his crappy criminal installation work and tell him he's bad bad BAD and should leave this planet and go wash the moon. Without him losing his face, respecting cultural differences.. rrr..

How on earth can a farang do that?!!?

I suggested to use wire nuts but the guy answered he never uses them because they won't fit in the boxes. Hm yeah... take that!

Wago or Wieland connectors are not used here due to their relative high price. I decided to let it be. Trying to teach a frog how to play chess is nothing for me..

Well. All and all I should have installed all of the electrics myself. Like many other construction aspects in our little project.
 

A woman nearby was fried by her non-earthed washing machine last month.

Villagers found her in her house, 4 weeks later. "She fell and died.."

Uhuh. Nobody talks about the electrocution, nor the reasons behind it.

Word of appreciation for all your comments.

You saved our lives ! Kwab khun mak

5 hours ago, rwill said:

get yourself one of these socket testers and check all the sockets. ................

Live is connected to the correct pin on every socket, I checked with a multimeter. Color of the wires are just not quite consistent.

We got red, yellow, brown and blue Live wires. Same colors are used for the Neutrals too. Oh and black. Oh similar for the GND wires. (!)

But thanks though, it is a good thing to have, not a whole lot of money either. I'll buy one and get the plug adapter for it too.

8 hours ago, carlyai said:

I'd also be a bit worried about those joined wires.

I actually had scary dreams about ALL details of this installation... seriously.

But trying to keep this thread a bit less messy than the main joints box just above the breaker box, which has 8 groups all spliced, twisted and taped up. See picture.. 

The joined wires in the box you mentioned, are Neutrals. or Lives, used for power outlets just below the circuit box, connected too group #4. 

I measured the outlets and seem to be ok....

8 hours ago, Crossy said:

Note - If you're just looking at the pictures, the first diagram on page 13 (page 7 of the PDF) is showing you how NOT to do it.

Thanks . It is nearly what they did - connected the GND bar directly to the N bar of the RCB output. Difference is in- and output connected to same bar...

If i understand well - re routing the GND bar connection to the N-input of the RCB would be an improvement (see diagram) ?

Also, in this book I see ">= 2.4 เมตร " at the length of the earth rod. In my home country this means 'equal or higher than'. 

This is not what they used, they used a 1.2 meter rod, as they said. With those 2 x 1,5 mm2 wires connected to it. Seems way to short to me.

Could it still work properly and how to test this ?  We are based in Pai, Mae Hong Son by the way.. in the valley not much higher than the river level.

Should I connect a 15 Watt light bulb between L and GND rod and see if there is a current flowing?

Hmm another thing I measured a consistent 12 Volt ac on all outlets between L and N with main breaker switch turned OFF.

Is this common?

Thanks so far;

The green/yellow are connected to the 3rd pin on the wall power sockets in the building, that is, through taped splits to other colors and gauges in several wire joint boxes. 

The blue joints in the bottom of the box are Neutrals from power sockets just below the breaker box and are connected to the N bar.

And yes... the grey and black 1,5 mm2 wires on the first picture both go from the GND bar in the breaker box into the soil outside the building and have a 1.2 meter ground rod connected to it, burried. 

This would be the "earth" connection in this system.... which I am a bit worried about.