PoolDoctor

We have just received an email that a buyer will come pick these up tomorrow. So, until we hear otherwise, these are now sold.

Thank you,

Gil

We are clearing year end stock, have two (2) drums (44kg) of pure cyuranic acid. Stabilizer for salt water and or liquid chlorine pools. Normally, each drum is about Baht 8,000, we will let these two go for 5,000 each. Free delivery anywhere in Pattaya, or BKK. COD.

Gil

We also offer swimming pool safety fencing, superior to alarms (no false alarms from waves, wind, etc). Very effective.

Best,

Gil

They do what it says on the box. Easy to install.

See the products HERE

You certainly have an MBA now in chlorine types available in Thailand. Many of our clients try what you tried, only to find that a salt water chlorinator is often (not always) the most economical over time when factoring in costs, headaches, time spent trouble-shooting, new grout, etc. For small pools, they are an effective and hassle-free chemistry solution. Alas, the owner needs to understand the role of CYA, and why its so important.

There are alternatives though; keep adding stabilized chlorine manually, but you're correct, CYA will accumulate. You can do a partial drain, but this is more maintenance headaches and water cost. You will also have to watch the pH level, as stabilized chlorines are caustic, and will destroy the pool grout.

For some of our mid sized pools, (say, 300,000 liters up) we have had excellent results with liquid chlorine feed pumps. Either ORP controlled, or time controlled combined with manual testing. Liquid chlorine is safe, cheap, easily handled, and is un-stabilized so no CYA build up. You will have to adjust CYA manually.

For larger commercial pools like the one you mention, we try to steer clients away from salt water systems. The large surface area of the water makes the chlorine too prone to quick evaporation. There are large commercial units available for sale, but not readily available in Thailand.

lol. Ouch.

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When the pump is inactive there is no sucking sound on the MPV, I know that one from when the exit to the drain was leaking, but now with my ear on the valve there is no sound.

I just noticed however that there is a movement in the water in the debris basket of the pump every 30 seconds or so. I don't see a bubble coming up but I see some movement.

Yes, that's likely water returning to the skimmer backwards if you know what I mean. Is there a check valve on that line?

By luck, fate or design, we have mostly exited the pool maintenance business to focus on commercial pool building, renovations, repairs, consulting, training, etc. We are now on some exciting projects (Suk Sabai Villas, PingPah Condo, etc).

That being said, we still get about 3 calls a day for pool maintenance requests in Pattaya and Bangkok. If there is anybody out there considering setting up a pool management company, and needs starter clients to get off the ground, please PM me. I will be happy to share these leads if we can work something out. We are happy also to show you how to fix, repair, trouble-shoot, install, manage, chemistry, etc., so that you can offer a full range of services beyond just vacuuming. You can either brand yourself, or use our brand since we've been around since 2004 and have a long list of clients.

As they say, pools are a hard way to make an easy living.

Gil

We had a challenging pool filter problem last month. We replaced the DE filter (headache to clean and manage) with a sand filter in a difficult underground equipment room. Trouble was, the original pump has simply too much for the new sand filter to handle. In a new pool water filling, it was simply blowing debris thru the sand media. No matter what we tried, we could not get the water clear. Operating pressure on the filter was 9psi, well within normal. As an afterthought, we re-installed the original DE filter just behind the sand filter with a by-pass valve for controlling the amount of water. Voila. Clear water in 6 hours. Now, they backflush the sand filter once a month, and clean the DE filter once a year. Once the pool settles down, we will slowly turn off the DE filter. If we can maintain clear water, we will remove the DE after that. TBD.

Gil

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Standard grout from HomePro (alligator, lizard, etc) will work just fine and is cheap and easy to apply. The grout will last forever if you manage your pH properly. Start dumping in granular chlorine though, and you'll be re-grouting every 6 months due to having caused the water to become highly acidic. Convert to a salt water pool to avoid this.

Depends on your water supply Doc?

Here in my part of Isaan well water tends to the alkali and I was continually tipping in HCL to get the acidity up when I was operating the pool on manually-dosed chlorine powder. No sign of regrouting needs for 30 months of such operation. Salt-operated now though.

It also depends on the type of chlorine used. 90% chlorine has pool stabiliser added to it which is acidic but the 60% chlorine does not have the stabiliser.

Actually, both have stabilizer. 90% strength granular chlorine is called trichlorisocyuranic acid. 60% is called dichlorisocyuranic acid. Both are stabilized chlorines. The only non-stable form of chlorine is liquid chlorine (10% strength) and the chlorine (gas) from a salt water chlorinator.

Gil

Not for a long time I believe.

Gil

Sounds like water is reversing itself in the system and returning back to the pool once the pump shuts off. This is like taking your finger off a straw and releasing the water trapped inside the straw. When you turn off the pump, stand quietly and try to hear if there is any air leaking into the system. If you hear water rushing past the check valve also, that might be the problem. also. Sometimes, the return line valves (especially the ones with red handles or twin union valves) are not fully tightened down. They won't leak water, but they will allow just enough air to enter to let the water reverse itself.

Does the pool have air bubbles when running the pump? If so, that's usually a suction side leak. As you said though, that the air disappears after you turn on the pump, sounds like you do not have a suction side leak

Seperately, as mentioned, you should also circulate water via the main drain. A skimmer is often not enough flow to achieve a good turnover time.

You can confirm whether leaking or not, easily. Simply shut off the tank valve, and circulate water only via the main drain. If you continue to lose water, the problem is not in the gutter (which rarely leaks).

Any good standard concrete mix combined with a sealant (e.g., Sika) properly troweled will also be fine. The technique in Thai to use is called "cut man" which means to trowel the concrete into a paste and remove any porous holes.

Gil

Just a quick note here; we're conducting a training program in pool water chemistry, maintenance and safety this coming Mar 14 & 15 (TBD) at a new health club in BKK. The client is short of about 3 students for a full class, so is welcoming additional students to join us. If you're interested, just PM or ring me (0897720148) for more details like cost, agenda, location. This is an in-depth and intense 2 day training program (Thai) utilizing practical modern tools (e.g., LCD projector and real time water chemistry manipulations) and teaching techniques.

If you're tired of re-grouting your pool every 6 months, now is a chance to get your guy (or gal) trained up.

Gil

Standard grout from HomePro (alligator, lizard, etc) will work just fine and is cheap and easy to apply. The grout will last forever if you manage your pH properly. Start dumping in granular chlorine though, and you'll be re-grouting every 6 months due to having caused the water to become highly acidic. Convert to a salt water pool to avoid this.

and what is your idea for managing the ph correctly in a salt water pool ? ph controller ?

Yes. Almost all our salt water pools are now coupled with an auto-injector for muriatic acid. The zodiac + pH models are nice, and take pure acid without a dilution tank. They monitor pH all the time, and inject acid when the pH rises above a set point (say, 7.5). You can also use a stand alone (e.g., Hanna) unit with a dosing pump.

You'd be surprised by the number of things Thai workers can do with an axe, hammer drill, hammer and a couple of screwdrivers. Really. They seem to get by with the minimum of tools in their box.

Standard grout from HomePro (alligator, lizard, etc) will work just fine and is cheap and easy to apply. The grout will last forever if you manage your pH properly. Start dumping in granular chlorine though, and you'll be re-grouting every 6 months due to having caused the water to become highly acidic. Convert to a salt water pool to avoid this.

Keeping proper levels CYA in the pool is one of the most important aspects of managing a salt water chlorinator treated pool. Even I was amazed at the difference it makes. My family and I once rented a house in Pattaya where I installed a salt water chlorinator years ago (I had a spare used one). We were continually getting "blobs" of black algae in the white grout lines (this is an eyesore for any good pool guy) and I was continually scrubbing the pool. Once I introduced external CYA though, the ORP levels rose quickly, and it seemed that the algae could not get a foothold (no pun). The pool cleared up immediately (2 days) and no more scrubbing.

By the way, we sold it all so i am not selling anything anymore!

A common question we get is, "why do we need pH control" with an automated salt water chlorinator? 90% of all pool companies in Thailand will not be able to answer this question, nor give further advice.

Ans: the Ph of salt water pool tends to rise over time, and will eventually exceed 7.8 on the ph scale (the water is becoming more base). This is a natural phenomenon of salt water pool chemistry (related to the production of chlorine gas from sodium chloride). When pH is high, chlorine sanitation efficiency is low. This causes water that is not being sanitized completely. The 2 are inversely related. When pH is low, chlorine efficiency is high, however then you have to worry about the damages caused by acidic water. So then, to gain maximum chlorine efficiency without generating acidic water, keep the pH between 7.2-7.8. This will allow maximum chlorine efficiency, at minimal acidic damage. To keep the pH down into this range, ALL salt water generators should be coupled with an auto Ph injector. Or, manually dose the pool with muriatic acid from time to time.

Gil

photo attached.

Nothing against the French of course, but if anyone wants to convert their pool (embedded equipment in the white box pool side) to a "real" pool, just give us a ring. We have done one pool today in Chantaburi. We removed the old equipment, and extended the piping (2" inlet, 2" outlet) 30m to the main house. We then bored thru the storage room floor, and extended the piping to this small room. We then installed a nice 2hp pump, 28" filter, salt water chlorinator with pH control (minus of course), control panel, valves, etc., beautiful job!

I don't have a smoker, but you can use a food dehydrator, slicing meat thin. If you want the smokey flavor , you can use liquid smoke, or you cn use any combination of spices from honey to tabasco. As far as slim jims, they is someone on here that sells slim jims and I think maybey jerky as well. I bought my dehydrator at Versu, but Central World, Makro and such sells them, and liquid smoke can be found at Villa, Tops,Foodland, but is very concentrated so experiment some and marinate your meat, and dry!

Makro sells dehydrators? I have been many times and not seen one....

I want my son to experience beef (or other) jerky. I also want to learn how to make it. Can somebody teach me for a fee, or is anyone making it as a hobby? I cant find it anywhere.....I am also craving slim jims, if anyone can show me how to do this I will make it worth your while....

Wheat thins and triscuits? party mix (with real chex cereal). slim jims. A&W weiners...the list can go on and on...

You can add it direct to the pool. Don't add too much at one time though, as it will make the water cloudy for 2-3 days. BTW, soda ash is pH + , and you will know how much to add after knowing your water volume. Lots of online free calculators to calculate how many kg to add.

Gil

"Here is ....". Where is ....?

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