Steve&mem

I think this thread should be close as the is another one about this topic. apologies for not looking properly.

😵 So the wife went to renew her UK passport and was told VSF were moving from the Trendy Buildings on the 18th March.

I'm not sure if it's only the passport part or all of it. Any body have more info.

They will not post back the passport under any circumstance she was told, then only a 1 hour window to collect. I think I should have paid for an agent. 2 trips to Bangkok is expensive.

Took the wife Thursday for her UK passport, they only wanted her driving license for ID and was told 2 to 4 weeks wait. Then told us they are leaving Trendy Buildings on the 18th March and gave us this paper for directions.

He said It's All True, I found full evidence of it on Fakebook so it's got to be right. 

Officially NO

Do you have a water storage tank or is your water straight from the main, you need a reasonable pressure for backwash. We back wash ours monthly

One tank will do, you could put multiple layers of filter media in the one big tank or just the one media type, I like anthracite as a first line of defense, it will reduce the amount of silt and other <deleted> that comes through, then the Zeolite (the brand name I bought was Zelbrite) I got this from a pool shop, this will filter down to below 5 micron, then activated carbon.

Here's a pic I nicked from the internet to give you an idea.

Not everybody the same when it comes to filtering water, our water looks muddy most of the time. Also most of the time we have no pressure. Our set-up is we have an in-ground tank that the company water dribble's into, from there we pump the water through the 1st deep bed filter to the above ground tank's, So our 1st filter is a sand filter, going to change this to anthracite when I get back on my feet. When the house draws water from the aboveground tank's it passes through the the 2nd filter filled with Zelbrite then the 3rd filled with Carbon, this covers the main house. For drinking quality water we have a a 7 filter drinking water system with UF and UV.

If your any good at DIY or have someone else do it for you, you probably could do it a lot cheaper, I bought these from Lazada, then just added the filter media that suits my needs.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/12-52-blue-tmf56a-i624360794-s1192846714.html?spm=a2o4m.10453683.0.0.43f358d6YqnZ0u&search=store&mp=3

For me I have one that filters incoming water to the storage tanks, then two that filter the water from the tanks to the house. 

You need to look at your incoming water quality to decide what you need.

5 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

In order to create MEN you have to link the INCOMING neutral to the earth bar. The Thai way is to route the incoming neutral itself to the earth bar then run a cable from there to the incoming side of the main breaker. You have to do it this way if you want to pass the inspection for a permanent supply.

 

To be honest, with good solid grounding and an incoming RCBO I'd leave it as it is.

 

Thanks for that, I think I will leave alone 

MEN link ?????  I have just been for a walk down the Soi, every 4th electric post has a steel cable coming down from the cables above to the ground. So it looks like I have a MEN system in my area, just taken off the cover of the distribution board and I don't see a MEN link inside, If that's a cable that connects between neutral bar to the ground bar if I understand it right.

The house has 3 ground rod's that I believe to be 3 meters into the ground. Do I need to put this link in or is it ok as is.

Here is a picture of the breaker/interrupt on the garden wall and a picture of the distribution board.

Last year Udon-Thani immigration made me go out and get a new one, they just said "had to be same day".

13 hours ago, Steve&mem said:

First job, what service provider's are available in your area, then we can look at and debate on whether we think they are any good,

Forget my above post, I didn't read OP properly. 

First job, what service provider's are available in your area, then we can look at and debate on whether we think they are any good,

On 8/23/2021 at 7:07 PM, Bundooman said:

If she can eat that stuff - don't go for a blow-job!

Na, I just make sure she's taken her false teeth out

6 minutes ago, Rimmer said:

 

No that's a spray on that you dilute 14:1 the stuff to buy is Chiandrite wood preservative it comes in 1.8 ltr cans with a screw top

If you can translate here is a picture of the back. I believe that there were cans when we were building our house, this bottle was bought for a external door on mother in-law rice shed, we just painted it straight on, they ain't touched yet.

Just now, sanook 1 said:

Thanks, is it powder or liquid(paint?) 

Liquid 

I think this is the stuff you are talking about.

Yes, Chaindrite they do liquid also that you can get from places like Do-Home, Home Hub, before we hung the door's we painted them in this, then varnished when dried. 

34 minutes ago, DrJack54 said:

Why not mail it. Very simple process. 

Do it 15 days prior to due date.

I live within a 10 min drive to immigration, I have never looked at any other way of doing it. I really like it that way and I don't want to change.

That's the only reason I ask, with a 15 day prior and 5 day after able to report, this will fall well within our time away from home.

Can someone please tell me how many days before my 90 day report is due that I can go to renew.

Looks like me and wife going are away for few days, its a bit of a trek just to come back for, I have never done it online and I don't want to risk mucking it up.

16 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Assuming your RCD is correctly wired then we can safely assume that the current which passed through your body was less than 30mA or lasted less than 30ms. A 30mA shock hurts, a LOT!

 

I've had numerous shocks of various voltages over the years and, to be honest, I don't recall any of them operating the protective device before I removed myself (not necessarily voluntarily) from the source. 

 

Most of the times our RCDs operate they cut the power BEFORE anyone gets a shock.

 

I would be tempted to investigate just where your pump system is getting its power source, is it definitely being fed by that RCD?

Yes the 63amp RCBO 30 mA is covering that line, the cable was on top of the plastic lid so was insulated form the ground, I just made the connection but not for long. the only other protection was 10 amp MCB.

The Thai electrician (really just a farmer in our area), they can be a real nightmare if your not watching all the time, A lot of these guys don't have an education, for them, if it work's then its OK, health and safety is not in their vocabulary.  We found that the old cable (Live and Neutral only) which was single strand in yellow pipe and was not a continuous run but bits of cable that were joined with pvc tape. I have now replaced all the cables in a new HDPE conduit.

47 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

This is important to understand, you still get a nice solid whallop. It's very possible that the current wasn't actually enough to trip your RCD (but go and press the "Test" button anyway).

Just dun that, everything OK.

I was kneeling on damp ground at the time and I think it was more than a wallop.

Well my breaker didn't  trip,  is there a difference between the two ????

4 hours ago, brianthainess said:

Most still need storage tanks, due to drought or opposite for me more often very heavy rain causes blockages to our town water, that comes from the klong, brown <deleted> and blockages, I can simply turn off the town water till it is running clear again or mains have been unblocked somewhere up the line. but I would say any damage as shown here to wiring would knock my RDC off immediately.  

Not it will not switch off the RDC. its only making the connection across the neutral line, there is no ground cable in there just 3 cables connecting from the micro switch as it shows in the diagram I posted earlier.  

I have edited this because it doesn't show 3 wires as I said, but that what they have is, Black is common, Brown cuts the power in the down position of the float, and Blue cuts the power in the up position of the float