firewight

Thanks for the idea, but its not possible, the switchboard is already on the other side of the house, and the house wiring is already complete... Access from the pole is not an issue.

Could it be something like, underground from the meter to the side of the house (about 25m) and then aluminum cable from there using a junction or something on the side of the house and continue through the roof? I'm struggling with the fact that the distance is OK on poles, but not underground... The following are my current thinking... Option 1: Underground copper is actually about 55m but I allowed a little more for running in and termination at each end. Follow the red line around the left side OR Possible Option 2: Underground copper to the house about 25m, then aluminum through the roof to the switchboard, about 15-20m. Having poles inside the property would be messy and a shame... Option 3: Overhead aluminum (cheapest) into the house from the pole and then inside the roof to the switchboard is what I am trying to avoid. I am open to any alternate ideas you may have... Current photo of the house just for context. The PEA pole is here. Cheers!

Thanks mate. Yeah the cost of a 35mm 100m roll is currently around 16k each, so to double up for 60m runs I would need 4 rolls with a ton of wastage on each roll, its starting to get up there in cost to do that... Might have to think of an alternative...

Doers anyone know if there is a maximum distance that cables can be placed underground between the house and the meter? Our distance is about 60m, the house is closer than that but the switchboard is on the opposite side of the house so I wanted to run around the house, in HDPE pipe of course. Using the correct NYY cables of course. Am I reading this translation correctly that the maximum is 40m for the larger meter that we will need?

Thank you, this was very helpful.

Its double 7.5cm AAC blocks with a 5cm air gap. The thing you are referring to as insulation is just a water barrier, its not being used as insulation. The roof has 5cm bonded PU foam to the metal roofing sheets, as well as 15cm on-ceiling insulation, so we are well covered for insulation but thanks.

Thank you, however it would be more helpful if you could elaborate as to why that is required?

Hi guys, a basic question, we have some kitchen cupboards and under counter areas in the new house build that are still raw AAC Blocks. The original idea was to have these areas tiled, however I have changed my mind on that and just want to plaster skim the walls, primer and paint. The rest of the house was cement rendered, and then plaster skim coat was applies, sanded & primed. I understand that these terms (render, plaster, skim coat) seem to get get used interchangeably here, however in AUS where I am from, and subsequently in my house build, and this post, cement render is grey cement applied and smoothed onto the bare AAC blocks, plaster skim coat is a thin white plaster layer applied on top of the render to remove any roughness, which is then sanded to a smooth finish and primed prior to painting. My question is, can you plaster skim coat directly onto AAC blocks and bypass the cement render stage? As mentioned, these are inside cupboards and under counters, which will rarely be seen. Any thoughts would be helpful. Cheers! Cement Render Plaster Skim Coat

It'll definitely need larger conduit than 3 singles...

I was thinking of doing VAF-G in conduit, just to minimize any vermin bites or issues with exposed cable down the line...

@Crossy as you seem to have a world of experience with this, do you think in-wall/ceiling permanent (non moving) electrical cabling needs to be solid core, or is stranded core also acceptable?

This is exactly what I am trying to avoid 😉

Thanks, I'm sure there is meaning here I will have a dig around!

In this video a tax lawyer states credit card purchases and ATM withdrawals are not taxable as they are not hitting your personal Thai bank account...

Price is important, some brands get promotional pricing at different outlets, it is easier to know what to avoid than to wait for a particular brand to get a promotion...

Hi guys, in reviewing some posts here and other locations online, it seems that not all cable brands are equal when picking electrical cable to wire up a new house... I have heard some sparkies will not use certain brands because they are sub-par (as in the copper specified on the cable spec is not accurate ie: 2.5mm is not actually 2.5mm, but some lower measurement, etc), however I cannot find any information specifically on what brands to avoid. Has anyone run into this before, or have any further into to help me make the right choices? Cheers!

Thank you, yes I can certainly understand the aesthetic appeal. For me being 185cm tall, my question was for practical reasons. I have found in many Thai built buildings, and indeed in my current rental, the drop floor in bathrooms means the top of the door frame is quite low, meaning I actually have to be careful so I don't bump my head... Whilst my build will not have dropped floors in bathrooms, I do like the idea of taller than normal doors. Cheers!

You've got me thinking now. My ceilings are drawn 3m high throughout, but my doors are all 2m. What was the thinking behind the higher doors, maybe I need to consider this myself for our build...

Very interesting! Did they end up costing much more than off the shelf versions?

Thank you, good to know. I wonder how much heat the Aluminum doors/frames transfer in over the uPVC versions...

Interested to know why you don't like the uPVC?

hahahah I nearly spat out my coffee when I read this!!

Interesting they are using white/grey conduit for electrical, I have only ever seen them use the yellow here for those services...

Would be interested to know who you found in Korat. We are in this area and in the market for aircons as well... Cheers!