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Joel Barlow

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Posts posted by Joel Barlow

  1. The divided highway from the airport north to the road to ThaKhaoPluak is almost finished. I just rode my motorcycle up it to Golden Pine Resort, MaeKhaoTom and Ban PangLao. I was amazed to find stores, ATMs, a fresh-food market and a school with large playground. Along the new highway people were bicycling, jogging, playing badminton and generally enjoying themselves. It’ll soon be easy to get to Chiang Rung and Doi Luang (um, you know, the one over that way). This should take a lot of the heavy pressure off of Superhighway 1, which I have become wary of crossing! It means ChiangRai will continue to grow, for sure, but maybe we won’t get ChiangMai traffic just yet (let’s hope).

  2. A friend of mine is a licensed tour guide, low on work lately. Speaks Thai, English, Chinese and various hill-tribe languages. Send me a personal message and I'll supply a phone number. His accent is a little bit thick at first, but easy to get used to, quickly enough. I had a driver once in Burma, took me a couple days to find out that we could actually communicate quite well!

    Oh, I've hired this friend as a guide for visiting dignitaries before, and all worked out quite well, but for reasons I don't recall, he wanted someone else as a driver. Will ask him about that. But for sure, he'll know someone.

    Actually, I think you could find someone easily on your own... if you're not in town, search the net using google. If you are in town, ask at the place opposite Wiang Inn. But if you can't find anything, I'm sure my friend can help out.

  3. An educated person from Ban Pa Ha tells me the improved road past the front of the airport will go just a bit further north to split this side of MFL U., and so become a by-pass route and also a road to ChiangSaen via the route I mentioned previously.

  4. Not long ago, a year and a half maybe, in this distinctive little city could be seen massive amounts of cash racing from hand to hand, at banks especially: large bags of bundles thousand-baht notes worth tens of thousands US, getting counted on the electronic machines. Land prices doubled while illegal casinos did so much business that some had to close down, their parking lots full of 'pawned' vehicles they could no longer sell in newly saturated Shan State. Everyone was so rich you couldn't even get illegal immigrants to work for minimum wage. Cheap housing was going up at a rate not seen since the 1997 'Thaitanic' crash, but somehow we didn't get a resurgance of nice restaurants or bars, art or handicraft shops, or boutiques. The day of the 'spa' has come and mostly gone, but coffee-shops and bakeries with minimal offerings ubiquitous, massage parlors and opticians are everywhere... just nothing that really requires work. Some road-work was done, but narrow lanes and potholes remain the norm.


    Just north of Ban Du (the north side of Amphoe Muang) at Ban Pa Ha, are many new houses, some in 'developments' of small units, a few costly and large. There's a bit of interesting architecture, including an old, raised two-story teak house with ornate galae roof decorations (but it seems to be falling apart), and a small place with plate-glass framed by heavily varnished uncut wood still in the shape of the trees it came from. Just east of there, construction of a wide divided highway has commenced, but judging by the speed of other road-work, it will take years to become usable. It's to go to Chiang Saen, the same road that goes by the entrance to the airport and south to near the new HomePro, which will be extended on south - going I don't know where... Nan or perhaps as an alternate route to PhaYao?

    One would expect that the ChiangRai 'discussion group' forums might provide information on development plans, progress and these kind of changes, but so far I haven't noticed any. A rumor spread to me of plans for a new department-store complex in Ban Du, to include another Big C (the one we have, despite being right across the highway from the new Central/Robinson complex, has insufficient parking, as also does Central!). But it seems to me that locals go to Big C and Central as much to see and be seen as to spend. Lots of little, inexpensive restaurants have opened, but they seem not well patronized, and I wonder if soon we won't be seeing lots of the money-washing businesses close.


    With less crime, the government making banks act cautiously about money washing, less tourism, less disbursement of funds by the lovelorn to local lasses, less donation to charities, less arms sales to tribal armies in Myanmar, less gambling, less foreign aid coming in (no Cobra Gold war games, fewer foreign navy ships docking in Pattaya), less from concerns like the Rockerfellow Foundation, less profit from drug dealing, less spent in bars, less spent in restaurants, less brought in by expats looking to settle and invest, less naievely invested by a huge variety of mobsters, some semi-legit, and far less paid out to protestors, well, the water-pressure at the money pump just simply looks kind of low these days.


    I suppose the new highway is meant to imporve the financial picture. But looking at maps to try to make sense of the new highway from the airport to ChiangSaen, I fail. Maybe the new road will join Highway 1209 to ThaKhaoPluak, but from there it'd have to turn to Doi Luang, an OK country road, then 1271 to Chiang Saen. For what? Access to casinos? To lure Chinese customers who come for the casions to go on further, to Amphoe Muang?


    The road to Kunming is through ChiangKhong, not ChiangSaen, and the small roads in Laos from the other side of the Mekhong from Chiang Sai (Hwy 2) are much smaller than Hwy 3 to LuangNartha (then up to Kunming or down to LuangPrabang). And Hwy 3 is the only major thru-fare there.


    So what, I wonder, is the expensive new road really about? Utilizing budgeted monies? Kickbacks? Taksin's plan for a "special economic zone" in ChiangSaen?


    Hundreds of thousands of Chinese tourists will purportedly drive down, annually, but already not only are they unwelcome in ChiangMai, and don't go there anymore!


    Anyone have any other knowledge about what's going on?


    • Like 1
  5. Never heard of an Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Hmong or Yao Muslim. Hadn't heard of Karen ones until a border refugee village was burned down, Jan 2011 maybe it was... news reports mentioned mosques there. But many Haw Chinese have been Islamic for maybe 1000 years, some of them trading here as long ago as when the first T'ai arrived about 750 years ago.

    In Tak one encounters Sikhs and other South Asians, and I believe there are some in other western parts of the north, too.

    There are lots of mosques here in Chiang Rai, but I encounter very little discussion of who attends them, and suspect government (and CIA) population figures re: their numbers here to be way low. Hilltribe population figures certainly are, which is justified through pointing out that many are "illegals"... perhaps many Muslims are too, but I've certainly no evidence of that.

  6. Sorry, don't even know Chiang Kham.

    Seems to be that Islam is like Catholicism used to be: done in a language many of its adherents don't know.

    Some are Chinese, some "South Asian" and maybe some Malay. I'm curious about corresponding differences,

    but apparently am likely to stay that way.

    As for "Nan" - do you mean a dialect of Nan Province? That's also something I don't know about!

    But it used to be its own kingdom, so it's easy to assume there is one.

  7. That's interesting. I used to eat at the little Islamic food there on Soi Issaraphap (Soi Freedom).

    Some 'research' through google indicates that the muezzin issuing calls to prayer must use Arabic,

    "the language of Islam". Up in the hills, many Jeen Haw (aka Chin Ho) are Islamic and speak a form of Mandarin.

    I doubt 100 people here speak Arabic!

  8. Yawi is more a language than a dialect, although related to Malay (but not Arabic). Many Muslims here are "Jeen Haw" and speak the Yunnan dialect of Mandarin.

    Lao, Tai Lue, Tai Yai/Shan, Kham Muang and Central Thai are all related, with somke mutual intelligibility, but different enough to be considered different languages. Kham Muang, our local language, has different dialects (here it's somewhat different than in ChiangMai or Nan). Lao has it's own alphabet; Kham Muang certainly did, but it's mostly out of use. What alphabet the Shan of Myanmer prefer I'd like to have a better idea of - as with using Thai money, many find Thai language useful (for radio, TV, print media, even the the internet).

    In that area east of the "Superhighway, south of the Kok, where you often see goats running about, the language of at least some of the Imans, which I've heard over loudspeakers, is not Chinese. I doubt it's Arabic, but don't know.

  9. One of the wonderful things about Chiangrai is its multicultural diversity, its variety of religions, languages, food and clothing styles and beliefs.

    I've been wondering just how many languages, and count about 15:

    Lahu: over 100,000 speakers of two main dialects, Lahu-na (also used by some non-Lahu) and Lahu-nyi (Red Lahu; there alre also a few White Lahu)

    Akha, with dialects Jeu v g'oe v and A v kui v (Akhui/Akö/Akhö/Ak'ë) Akha, which isn't readily intelligible to other Akha; 3 depends on who's counting!

    Karen, mostly S’gaw (White) Karen

    Hmong (I find mention of Green, Blue, White and other dialects)

    Lisu, Mandarin Chinese, Cantonese, Burmese, Tai Lue, Tai Yai/Shan, Kham Muang, Central Thai, Lao, English, Wa/Lawa, and Bengali (in Pai, Mae Hong Son, I

    encountered Islamic Yawi speakers running e-mail shops).

    Does anyone know much about what languages Muslims here tend to speak? Or how many there are? I get the iompression that it's like with the Akha: depends on who is counting.


    • Like 2
  10. Three places: one already mentioned above. One right by Gate #1 entrance to Rajapat. One on the east side of the "superhighway" not far north of the bridge from the Ha-yeak (big gardening supply area, lots of shops, as it were) which may get sod from the place further north (past MaeFahLuang U? I don't recall, although I have bought it there).

    Usually it is cut too thin, so get it in before it gets dry!

    • Like 1
  11. Um... well, I failed to get to the article itself (is that possible), but the abstract suggests (in weird, bloated English) that people in different areas speak a bit differently. Wow! Who knew? What is the world coming to? Next thing you know, it'll be reported that culture here isn't the same as in Bangkok. I, for one, certainly hope it doesn't come to THAT!

  12. And suddenly money is pouring out of the country. Weird to me, mostly as all this has been clear since the beginning of the year, at least. But maybe it reflects on the 2.2 trillion trillion loan to be repaid with 5 quadrillion of whatever currency might apply in 50 years...

    A couple weeks ago the "government" (bureaucracy of cronies) was bemoaning a strong baht, now it bemoans a weak one. So nice that it says it has enough reserves to deal with the problem, but how is anyone to believe that anyone knows, anymore?

  13. If you have a retirement visa, you can do your 90 day thing by mail. If you need to go in person for renewal, you must go to your regional office (I recently tried BKK - a sign says, in effect, if you don't live here, go to the office where you live). Nothing to do but bite that bullet (except to get it done in another country)

  14. Sananbin Road? Makes me thing of Hom Doi. And days long gone by... Lots of new entertainment places on Kasalong Road and in Ban Du. I haven't been to them, and think they're for a bit different sort of entertainment. Haven't been to the disco road either, recently - not since you could still smoke in the Sperm Club.

  15. There's something called Face Bar at the SanPhu Hotel, but it's patronized almost entirely by local citizenry. Next to it is a downstairs place with go-go girls (who knew!?!) in small swimsuits, but again... it's not something arranged for Farang tastes (and you must buy a big bottle, expensive, and are expected to leave what you don't drink until next time)

  16. My wife is just back from a visit to her grandmother half-way between Tachilek and Keng Tung. The situation there is
    horrible, with extreme poverty and malnutrition, rampant drug use, mixing poisons (including rat and insect poison) with the speed and heroin being manufactured (she has somewhat distant relatives who have been working doing the mixing) and animal disease (buffaloes, cows and pigs frothing at the mouth).


    The international media neglect to report on this, perhaps to help preserve some (unwarranted) optimism for international investment in Myanmar, but Shan Herald Agency for News reports that drugs seized recently were burned by The Restoration Council of Shan State / Shan State Army (RCSS/SSA) seized drugs on Sunday, 7 April, on the Sino-Burmese border township of Namkham (according to the SSA South, as the RCSS/SSA is commonly known), including 55,171 methamphetamine tablets, 6 ½ viss (10.4 kg) of opium and one penicillin bottle of heroin. With drugs seized earlier, including more than 130,000 methamphetamine pills, they were turned over to Chinese authorities, said an SSA South officer. A burning ceremony took place at the Nawng Ma Tai base, witnessed by 486 invited people. Most of the yaba (methamphetamine) pills were red WY (10-15 pills per ¥ 100) and reddish brown 88/1 (6-8 pills per ¥ 100), explained Lt-Col Zawm Mong, commander of the Nawng Ma Tai-based 701st Task Force. Namkham township is one of the most notorious
    drug producers and users in Shan State.

    “Drugs are more dangerous to the people than all war weapons,” Sao Mao Hsai, deputy to Lt-Col Zawm Mong, told the audience.


    SHAN also reported that due to recent clashes between Shan State Progress Party/Shan State Army (SSPP/SSA) and the Burma army in the Loi Zay region, Tangyan Township in northern Shan State, thousands of local people in the region are fleeing to the township seat.

    At the end of March during the fight between SSPP/SSA and Burma army’s Infantry Battalions (IB) 33 and 291 and Light

    Infantry Battalion (LIB) 322 intensified. The Burma army units were attacking SSA bases along Loi Zay range; they shelled the SSPP/SSA bases, also firing “knowingly”, according to sources, into farmlands and villages. It is reported that the shells landed in villages resulting in many losses. Following the shelling, Burma army soldiers also confiscated and looted villagers, a Lahu militiaman told SHAN.


    My wife says lots of kids have weapons, with which to hunt for food in the forests. Young girls, however, often do not have underwear.

  17. My wife is just back from a visit to her grandmother half-way between Tachilek and Keng Tung. The situation there is horrible, with extreme poverty and malnutrition, rampant drug use, mixing poisons (including rat and insect poison) with the speed and heroin being manufactured (she has somewhat distant relatives who have been working doing the mixing) and animal disease (frothing at the mouth).

    Meanwhile, on to the important stuff: the restaurant Ken maidu mentioned is called EU. The good Ban Du mu-ka-tah is Saen Fang. Chiangrai Cafe, just north of the road to Rajapat Gets #1 (west side of Hwy 1 near the walkover) is much the same as EU (fast due to microwave) but with good brownies too.

  18. Yesterday I tried the restaurant Maidu Ken recommended. It's just east of the NamTong road where on Sunday and Tuesday evenings there's a "Walking Street" (Tuesday much, much bigger). The salmon steak was great.

    The other steak restaurants in Ban Du are not (the Mu KaTah just south of the open area on the east side of Hwy1 is pretty good, 'though more costly than FahSai).

    I didn't catch the name, but hope it'll get sufficient patronization to survive (the Mexican place just past Hang Dong is more likely to do so - deservedly). The menu is only in Thai, but there are pictures.

  19. Can anyone help me with more complete data for an updating of chiangraiprovince.com/guide ? This information really should be more readily available...

    Chiang Rai has nursery schools, elementary schools, high schools and colleges, both public and private. There's a teacher's college, a business school, an industrial college, an agricultural tech college and a university.


    Amphoe Muang has lots of schools, too many to report on. My young son’s pre-school and “annuban”

    (kindergarten) have been great: just local places with very nice teachers. I taught briefly at Samakkhi Wittayakhom (on Banpaprakan, west of the new clock-tower and Old Airport Road) in 1999, and helped to start its English Language Academic Program. It’s reputed to be the best school in Thailand’s north, and found many good things there, but am not much impressed that that’s the best we have. Since then two International schools have opened. ChiangRai International, CRIS (over B200,000 a year, cost rising with grade), is on Kasalongm just east of Thanon Klang Wiang (the road with the new bridge which goes to Ban Mai). The second, ChiangRai Christian International School (B120,000 a year ) is further north from Ban Mai, down a soi opposite Makro. Piti Suksa, one of our two Montessori schools (we once had three rival ones), is near the Rimkok Resort, on Nam Lat (or MaeFahLuang) Soi 1, and, name not-with-standing, teaches in English (about B70,000 a year for kindergarten and 80,000 after that); the other one goes half and half. It is also north of the river. The private schools also have entry charges (25-50,000 baht).

    Chiangrai Wittayakhom is our oldest school (before it opened, teaching was done mostly in temples), and enjoys a good reputation too. Tetsabaan 6 school is supposed to be pretty good (I was recently told that Tetsabaan 7 had half Thai Half English instruction, but think Tetsabaan 6 was meant). It’s at the intersection of the FangMin Road which goes out to the Labor Ministry and Motor Vehicles
    department, and Rt. 5023 which runs in front of the airport, by the “Discovery Center”). There’s a pretty fancy looking school by the Provincial sports arena (Ban SanKhong School, ChiangraiJalernRat), and a couple Catholic schools (Santi on the Superhighway and St. Mary’s across from Ban Mai market). Sahasat Suksa in Nam Lat, mostly for Hill-tribe kids, is Christian. My family is not, but from our direct experience, I can definitely say it is a fine school.

    KTech way out past Den Ha, Chiangrai Beach and Rai Mae Fah Luang (ChiangRai Kachanaphisek
    Technical School, past another Samakkhi Wittayakhom on Rt1211 old hwy to CM) is our best vocational school, although VBAC (almost to Wat Rong Khun “White Temple” just west of Hwy 1), which instructs students of the last couple years of “high school” along with students in the first couple years of upper
    education, may be seen to successfully rival it in some ways (I’ve heard they have an interesting bio-diesel program). Mae Fa Luang University (km. 846 on Hwy 1) is reputed to be our best. Chiangrai Rajapat University (just north of Ban Du) seems to be the party campus, with entertainment venues all around (often with suggestive ads for Regency and VO); when I assisted them some 15 years ago, students mostly lived 7 to a room but now there is a plethora of small free-standing houses for them. Another Rajapat is soon to open in ChiangKhong.

    Under the current Thai constitution, children have a right to 12 years of schooling; the school-year starts in May and ends in early March, with a vacation in October.

    Thai language lessons are available at the YMCA on Goi Loi near the library (by the month, tel 053-713-009) or from Wanpen Nanta out in Ban Huay Sak (towards Thoeng, B150/hr, tel. 01-366-6987).





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