Babooshka

I know a thai boat captain from phuket who has five and moans about it all the time as it appears not easy to get ridof them lol

My wife used to have a pua noi - same <deleted> reversed - an old german pervert trying to steal someone's youth because he thought he could afford it. 

A bit of headache but we went through that

Hi,

Question to guitarists. My Strat shows some fret wear and I would like to refret it however if normally I would take the axe to Europe to do it on my next occasion, now the next occasion seems to be too long to wait for.

 

Any advice on a workshop/luthier reliable enough to do fret job? thanks 

I have a TC Electronic Ditto that I don't use, can sell

Thanks for your advice Jeff. I think I'd rather go for a 500 cbr or cb considering their 2nd hand prices for almost new bikes

Are the 500 cc engines more reliable than these?

Jeff, mine had about 10000 on the clock. I'm not a motorist so I have no idea how the timing can cause the damage of the main bearing.

Bit sad. Pure coincidence it happen with the minor prang?

Yes, looks like this. I can't image what an impact should be to damage the main bearing, but I wouldn't have any chance to stay alive after that defo.

Yes, I have some.

Crankshaft, main bearing, piston and the cylinder - all go to the trash bin. I got the bill listing 17 parts to be replaced, so they decided to completely refurbish the engine.

My attempt to turn it onto a warranty issue has been rejected by "no oil insai (inside)". Needless to say that there was oil, that was the first thing that I've cheked when the noise appeared.

On the bright side of that I will have an almost new engine, but it costs almost 13 K baht.

A few days ago I had a small accident - crashed the plastic barriers with my right leg an the bike's right side. I didn't fall off, so I stopped and checked everything was in place and then continued moving. Maybe it was a coincidence but the engine started producing a very loud rattling noise and I took the bike to the dealer next day.

So they checked the bike and told me that the timing chain tensioner was the problem. I came back in a few days and learnt that they've changed the tensioner but the noise has not gone. Now the bike is still in the shop and they are "cheking" it.

Perhaps someone has ideas or past experience on the same.

Thank you

From a shop in Patong, forgot the name but they are not so many there. 8000 bht a set, plus 400 to mechanic

Well... put on a set of Rosso 2, got completely different bike. Changed my mind on selling it out

If you let me, what would I suggest is:

in case your Feng Shui lets you - go for Italian wheels. Fulcrum (Campagnolo) do many types for every budget (racing 7 - 5 - (Quattro) - 3 - 1 - zero...) which are way better than those Japanese. Racing 3 are already something. Racing 1 are the same as top-end Zeros with one only difference in carbon parts of hubs. BTW I've tried DA wheels, all that I can say - decent wheels, nothing more.

Bontrager are not bad, as I can recall from a test ride on their Aeolus...something (tubulars). The owner, a friend of mine, done thousands of miles on them without any trouble.

My personal choice are ZIPP (101 for training allround, 202 for...), but there are lots of holywars about that make, so I would abstain from recommending.

And remember one thing: the feeling you have when you hold your (spinning) wheel by the axle is wrong. It (wheel, or hub) works differently when loaded with your weight and tightened skewer.

If your new Ultegra or DA is 11 sp compatible - why not? If they are 10 sp - no way.

There's a shop in Town across from Big Wing, opposite gas station. They sell bike and cycling apparel as well as helmets.

Another one is in the same street where Kawasaki dealer is located. Sorry, forgot the name. The shop is about 100 m from Kawa heading north. Lots of helmets and other stuff

There will be no damage to the rims on clincher wheels, I guess, as they are not ridden - so do not suffer extra loads.

Me, personally, I never pump training tires to max - never knew what for. 7 - 7,5 is much more comfortable to ride ;-)

However, I always re-glue tubulars in case I forgot to deflate them.

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

I always thought WD 40 was just kerosene with some odours added. was I wrong?

by the way what is the point of letting the air out of the tires.

When I have 8 bar in the tires and the airplane would go out in space with zero bar air pressure than it would be still equivalent of only 9 bar on the ground.

Many times I forgot to deflate my tires. Both clinchers and tubulars. And they've never blown up.

Pag, you cycle to Khao Lak. I am truly impressed. How long does that take.

Actual riding time there and back (201 km) was 6.5 hours, at an average of 30.4 km/hour.

Not bad taking into account the weather! Do you strava your rides?

And there's my using the oil that goes in the gear box of the auto scooters for my bike chain.

30-50 bht a bottle.

There were times we used even waste oil from cars... no other opportunities, worked ok

I envy you, tourers. I personally just can't stop on going faster and faster, and that is nothing to do with long rides. Although I did some randonneur challenges back home. Good luck!

BTW impressed by your age FdiMike. I've seen people of 60-70 age category racing, but they are unique, and sometimes former champions. Cheers!

I, personally, got back in saddle at the age of 33, after a heart attack. I had a cycle school and racing experience when I was 15-21, but it was not that easy to get back after those years of drinking, smoking and working in my office.

That was also one of the reasons I quit and moved to Th.

A little offtopic, sorry for that . Many sport bike riders attach their plates to the fender under the seat. It's a common practice all over the world. What problems can such installation entail here in Thailand? Do cops pay attention to this?

Junglechef, the bicycle chain is a heavy duty thing, however it does not suffer so badly as for example motorcycle parts do. Just clean it and grease it regularly. It practically does not matter what particular lube you are using - the chain's life depends more on frequency of servicing, than on lube quality or brand.

Anyway, shimano chains work well but I would recommend to you buying a Campagnolo Record 10 sp chain, when yours wears out. It will work perfectly with your 10 sp transmision, but will last much much longer. Much longer can mean even two or three times longer, depending on what you do with your bike.

The Irish bar next to White Heart in Rawai new kitchen managment Awsome Cheese burger...

Yesss... Mad Mohally's pub. Great "American cheese". 200 bht now, was 140 in low season

good idea, Chiangmaiexpat!

7. Should I go for disc brakes or rim brakes are good enough?

There are other types of brakes of course, but I'd say they are not so widespread.

In many cases rim brakes are enough to stop your bike: commuting, lazy touring, city rides, fitness (cardio) training etc. But they have a very serious disadvantage comparing to disc brakes. They lose most of their braking power in wet conditions. This may be important when you go through a hard traffic in the city, or descend a steep hill. Rim brakes also "eat" your rims, as it comes from their name. Especially in wet conditions the abrasive wear of your rims will be much higher.

In these terms disc brakes are more reliable. They are also easier to maintain (change pads) and usually need less maintenance. Disc brakes can be hydraulic or mechanical. Mech brakes are cheaper and easier to service, but still efficient. Hydraulic brakes may need to be taken to a skilled technician when you need to bleed them.

8. I've ridden my friend's bike (of the same type) recently and noticed that I can go faster than I do on mine. I am not happy with my bike anymore, what should I do?

Unless you ride a heavy metal machine built with water pipes, do not hurry to throw your bike out. Take a look at your wheels first.

Most of the bikes including the road racing ones come with very cheap entry level wheels. Wheels, I'd say, form about a half of your bike's agility. The stiffer they are - the better your effort is transferred to the ground, the faster you go.

Cheap entry level wheels are also less reliable and have to be serviced often: spokes lose tension, rims become wobbly, so you lose a lot of your power to surpass your wheels' deformations. Take your wheels to a wheel builder to check them, and should you still be unhappy, try to put your friend's wheels on your bike and ride.

Tires (tyres?) are also very important as their rolling resistance may vary significantly from model to model. The pressure is also significant - always check your tire pressure and keep it within a recommended range (usually printed on the tire) having in mind your weight and riding conditions. A difference of 0,3 - 0,5 bar may change a lot.

9. I've followed the item 6, but my butt still hates my saddle. Should I buy a wider/softer one?

Not always a wider or softer saddle means more comfort. Moreover, a sport saddle may feel much more comfortable if it suits your constitution, unless your usual rides are a few hundred meters to the 7-11. There are many saddle makers and most of them have comprehensive guides (on websites) on how to chose your saddle. Many shops offer test saddles that you can try to ride and understand what you really need.

Remember: do not rely on your feelings if you try a saddle on a stationary trainer. Everything may change when you are out on the road.

Pls feel free to delete anything you find irrelevant. And accept my apologies for my bad English.

Petrol and a foot brush works just as well.

Or a used tooth brush.

It's faster and more efficient than any of those machines.