skippybangkok

Cheers... hard to see in pic, but improved a lot. less visible now, and screen closes properly now. Basically positioned it on one corner with some books, and incrementally put my weight on the corner more and more, trying to keep the force on the aluminium, not the screen. taking it apart would be a huge job with risks, so better to get control of my OCD and learnt to be happy with some imperfections ???? Thanks

ok - you had an iPhone 5 and are now an Apple expert. I am not a CIO, but have several friends who are, and all are using Mac's for similar reasons below The first Mac I bought was 9 years ago - dreaded it the first few weeks - old dogs learning new tricks - Extremely stable software - An amazing Retina screen - I do have a windows laptop for some work things, the difference is clear - never had a virus (yes Macs are susceptible ) - got every year free new releases of software ( dont get that on windows ) -can close the lid and open later without getting a blue screen of death or hanging - Battery on my new one lasts 20 hours - Battery on my old one would still go for 3 to 4 hours - thats after 9 years of use !! Try that with a Lenovo - Screen hinges dont break after 3 years. - all windows computers I have had lasted 3 to 4 years max, - M1 pro Chip performance and the list goes on..... Anyway, my screen not perfect, but functional now. if closing it for next 10 years wth stress, it will break from fatigue, so problem solved.... yeh, if you drop them, you are in deep pain, b

Kinda get it, they dont replace the shell, they replace the whole thing including screen. Problem kinda improved.... what bends one way bends the other. Used a thick envelope and closed lid with some force.... which gave some separation and now screen closes nicely. Then turned it upside down on a bench and put my weight on it, so the bent up lip has retreated alot. not perfect, but looks better and more importantly, the lid closes properly now

Probably the least educated I have seen in some time, also not helpful. I was a Windows user for most of my life, and have been on Mac for 10 years now. I can compare unlike yourself. Thanks for the other OPs advice... a bit risky, but might see if can remove the shell and straighten it out. ?

Got a new Mac Laptop ... was ohhh so careful, but.... if fell and the corner bent They want almost 30,000 baht to replace the screen shell... ludicrous. anyone have any idea how to safely bend it back without stressing the hinges ? Thanks

VFS - Australian one - has been a gripe for mine for quite some time - what a terrible web experience. Spent an hour on the phone calling to home affairs in Australia - answer is - "not our problem, call VSF". Contact them with a long and very detailed complaint, and this is the answer Flabbergasted, speechless - as if they have resolved the issue. The oz side is either incompetent or on the take to blatantly let VFS get away with such shoddy service which we pay for.

Have blind spots in the house, ie stairwells, where I dont need super internet, just a decent signal to control Wifi activated light switches ( can remote control ). Any ideas? Cheap and "good" is the desire, good enough for this low data case

Soz Bangna area, BKK

Thanks all... ok, 220, 230, 240v depending on time of day ???? Needs to be a relay as I have a lower power controller which can switch 220V, but cannot handle an 15k BTU aircon. Home automation - leave remote control on, and can remotely control mains power to AC

looking to switch a single phase for an aircon 240v input for switching ... this IP switch only has 150w capability.... use it to switch 15k BTU aircon - 240V 15 amp. so looking for 20 amp relay. where to get ?

Thanks

capacitor 4.5 uF

Thanks. Agree, but there is not a ground in the light switch box. might be lucky to find them in wall sockets. Your right - the leak is very small, just has be enough to power the wifi in the switch. have 10x ( min order ) resistors arriving today - will see how it pans out. Thanks

Yes.... one option would be to go to the light itself and put the capacitor over that. It does work, tested it. but prefer to leave the light fitting alone and handle the seepage at the switch side if possible

Thanks for your help. My electronics is about 30 years out of date. As per image below, vendor says to put capacitor they provided after the load over L and L1. But N does not come back to the switch so can’t do that. So my thought is to simulate a load like the light at the switch - the light i measures is 2M ohm resistance

Have an old home automation which will die one day soon, and stumbled one Tuya which is 1. Cheap 2. works good Using a wifi wall switch with only L, L1,L2,L2 , but no N ( they have same with N terminal too ). it needs a leak current to enable the switch and wifi, and they use a capacitor, but the capacitor needs to be placed over L, and then behind the load on L1 which is impossible as N does not come back to where the switch is. Would like to make a dummy load, and add ie 2M Ohm 240 volt resistor to simulate the LED light, which I can solder into the switch socket. Not sure where to buy, as never have bought this in my 27 years in thailand Thanks

Mrs had to go to Singapore for work, and since she is super busy, weight fell on me to figure out all the rules as her company just expects employees to handle it. She will need to travel to more places, and I really dont want to be a full time PA. Are there any outsourced services that you can pay who handle this ( list the rules and then help you prepare ? ) Thanks

Its kind of the point. they have a sh.. load of toys with batteries. This is the only one on steam. They went on a steam train in Australia and since then are crazy about anything with steam reading the above - I guess I will wait until travel to Europe and bring one back. I had something similar as a kid - was a fan toy - also on methylated spirits

Wow... thanks everyone... great advice

want to buy my boys a real mini steam roller - wondering if anyone knows the import duties ? from Germany Thanks Steam Roller

Thaksin came back few times, and who knows, maybe Trump in 2024

Thanks Not the worlds best programmer, but have done some cool things with python ( ie 400MB data downloads and processing ). Also not a trading whiz.... so a nothing ????

Thanks for the great insights. Really helpful I have no passion for day trading, but prefer more the value investing style or crunching large data which I can access You are spot on with the back testing. I have become quite good with python and have a set up where I can cut weekly data ie 01 Jan 2013 to 15 Dec 2019 and then using the algorithm, ask it to predict what to buy..... then add an extra week of data and see what it plans to sell, and then buy ( so ie 01 Jan 2013 to 22 Dec 2019. As such, there is no ability to see the future with this approach and the model will deliver or not Tested an enormous amount of code on GitHub all saying can make x% - as you said, most are <deleted>. found one which works, but not happy as I see too much inconsistency with different data sets - trying to find root cause. Currently using 2 approaches - value investing - looking for undervalued stocks - efficient frontier ( returns / risk maximisation ) So far, have faired well, survived the covid crisis - but really want to improve found one free resource which is extensive and well written. Not exactly what I was looking for, but never the less, I can learn from it. Zerodha Thanks again

Thanks might explain it. trial version I put on my car ( convert from crazy expensive air shocks to coil overs ) was imported in my name. Have first sale to a customer last week, so will work on CO and import under company Thanks all