In the jungle

Over the years I have seen many reports where the guys are charged with trying to bribe the police on top of the original charges.

Which, in essence, is because the bribe was too small.

15K maybe.

Price would vary a little depending on disc or drum front brake.

So sufficiency economy and OTOP are pulling in opposite directions yet they peddle both at the same time.

The problem with youth is its wasted on the young.

Sounds like a modified quote from The Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy

I am not sure it is word perfect but Oscar Wilde.

Our whole team feel completely drained after three months of intense undercover work said a police spokesman.

According to The Guardian today Thai police have discovered a tiger slaughter house linked to the temple about 50 km away.

If it is a standard Thai bike (Wave, Spark or whatever) a new chain is cheaper than a can of chain lube or cleaner.

If it's a big bike with an O ring chain then probably worth being more particular about how you look after it.

DOT3 is the most common type of brake fluid here but I don't use DOT3 in anything as it is not really up to the job..

Use DOT4 which is a higher specification. Not so common but you will find it, for example, at Esso stations (Mobil DOT4).

There is a very useful website called Irrigation Tutorials. Google will take you to it.

It will help you a lot with pump sizing and system design issues.

That is a fatuous argument.

If he had got up five minutes earlier he would still be alive.

If he had stopped at the Seven for cigarettes he would still be alive.

If had ridden a little bit faster/slower he would still be alive.

And so on.

The simple fact is he was run down by a drunk driver who lost control of his vehicle.

The motorcyclists use of the underpass pales into insignificance against that fact.

Judging by this article logic and basic arithmetic are not strengths of the Ministry of Agriculture and Agricultural Cooperatives.

Change the Doraemon sticker to a picture of a chocolate log?

But only yesterday afternoon a police spokesman was insisting the villains were fake coppers.

Confused.

My advice is to check the simple stuff first before looking at more complex and expensive things.

Firstly check in this order, spark plug, air filter, battery condition, fuel filter and, if it has done more than about 20,000 km, valve clearances. Problems with one or more of these components can cause the stalling and difficult starting you describe.

A light tan colour is normal spark plug. A black spark plug indicates running rich = too much fuel.

If those items all check out good then my next suspects would be the lambda sensor or the engine temperature sensor. The reason I suggest looking at these two components is because you say fuel consumption is way too high which suggests the bike is running rich. If a lambda sensor fails most engine computers default to running rich in the absence of data from the sensor. The engine temp sensor is, in these simple bikes, used as the equivalent of a cold start device. Cold start device = old school choke = throw more fuel into the engine. In the absence of data from the temp sensor the engine computer most likely defaults to a rich setting. Another reason for looking at the engine temp sensor and lambda sensor is because these can be diagnosed using a multimeter (a common electrical test tool).

Beyond that would be throttle position sensor, engine computer and other stuff.

For now I would not attempt to mechanically alter the idle. You can bet it was right out of the factory and in messing with it you would most likely be seeking to compensate for a problem elsewhere. Fiddling with it would require re-calibrating the throttle position sensor and I hazard a guess that most mechanics don't know this.

It could be numerous other things but the key is to have someone work through the steps logically without a bias towards selling you expensive bits such as engine computers and sensors.

"Oh, I imagine it's a language barrier thing, but I really don't think the lights they are talking about are neon lights. Neon lights are a lot more complicated. I think what they are talking about is what we would call in American, "flourescent lights."

Thai people call them neon lights because they are not neon lights.

What's hard to understand about that?

A Honda Dream or Wave would probably be the default choice.

Very simple and tough and excellent parts support from Honda at reasonable prices.

Yamaha make great bikes too but I cannot comment on parts support for them as I have not owned one in Thailand.

Patipong are just off Rangsit Nakon Nayok Rd.on Klong 10 (North East of Bangkok).

There is a German guy who works there but he speaks little English.

Various sizes and power sources; Kubota diesel, Honda GX and tractor PTO.

They look well made. Prices from around 130,000 up IIRC

Sure you can buy a bike for 10K.

Most new bikes are sold on finance with a relatively small deposit.

For many Thais even 10K in hard cash is a big ask.

1. Shocks normally fail in a manner that you would notice progressively.

2. It is almost inconceivable that all four shocks would fail at the same time.

3. They may have removed the front shocks (MacPherson struts I assume) to remove the drive shafts and thereafter the transmission. Not familiar with the Fiesta. Procedure varies from car to car.

Cool bike.

Where did the instruments come from?

And is that a gear position indicator and shift light on the right?

Just looked again. They also have D288 and D837 in that size. All are 2PR or 4PR. All around THB 600.

Look at the tubeless tyres page (they should work fine with a tube fitted).

From memory they deliver by EMS.

Try here:

http://www.rungkitautopart.com/

They have Deestone D265 15 x 6.00 at just under THB 600 a piece. They also supply tubes.

Deestone is a decent brand sold in Europe, USA and Australia.

I have used this company for Deestone tyres for my ride on. You will need help from a Thai with the ordering process. The website may look slick but lurking behind it is the usual process involving numerous phone calls and an ATM transfer.

Somehow I just knew that was going to be the answer.

Felt it in my bones.

My post #21 above should read "if Hitachi say designed for 18 to 30 metres"

I am surprised it works at all at 40 metres if Mitsu say designed for 18 to 30 metres.

Could they be getting confused between feet and metres and it is actually 40 feet? It sounds ridiculous but I have watched Thai construction workers make that mistake.

Another brand worth considering for submersibles are Mitsubishi which are made in Thailand and can be serviced and repaired here though I have no experience of them on the service side. Mitsu is all I can find here in the South unless I go for Chinese and I am not that desperate.

The next question is what task do you want the pump to perform.

The pump you would choose to supply a small house would be very different to the pump for an agricultural irrigation system.

At this stage you can say that it needs to be a submersible that operates efficiently at beyond four Bar pressure as it will take four Bar just to get water to ground level.

You need to try and estimate/calculate the above ground head (how much work will be required to move water through the system beyond the borehole). The answer will vary greatly from, for example, 10 metres to a bathroom to hundreds of metres in an irrigation system.

You also need to think about measuring the performance of the well/borehole. Measuring being the operative word. Don't rely on received wisdom. At our place we have several different wells and bore holes. I ended up using a long abandoned well that my wife's family said was no good as quantitatively and qualitatively it was the best. As luck would have it it is right next to the kitchen.

In an ideal world you would borrow a sub pump to do the well test(s) as that will inform a pump purchasing decision.