cali4995

oh here we go ฮอนด้า เวฟ ดิสก์ หลัง googel that. photos, conv kits everything you want ( honda wave rear disc) very interesting question . ive learned something

ive seen them also jvs . look for a thai wave facebk group.

probably not difficult or expensive to retrofit. drum brakes and cvt's are 100+ year old technology. you can also upgrade front disc . larger diameter, different caliper, more powerful master cylinder. adjustable leverage actuators. why? why bother ? it's easy to forget modern cars stop much faster than these old scooters. need for emergency braking? uh happens about once/ week. golly gee im blathering again

if you take off some of the front plastic bits, you will see you really only have 1/2 length front forks . you can swap these out easily enough along with the rear coil-over shock.  the difference can be dramatic

yes that looks very proper & tidy. did anyone ever ascertain the reason for elec tape in 1st instance? or if that's just a temp warning switch or an actual sensor for

a F.I. system ? there must have been a reason for post production patch, albeit sloppy

you really gotta get all the elec tape off & make sure they didn't do a dodgy splice job with wires. wrong connector , different sensor . it's hard to make out detail

it's just a silly little switch. please try and de-stress????

the boot looks like a sloppy fit

so the elec tape is there to keep it slipping off? yes, it's very micky-mouse. put a cable-tie around boot& cinch it off.  it probably has to be unplugged for small tasks . no danger of shorts or drains

for what it's worth daffy , i think you answered the question yourself . the " dipstick" is same colour as engine oil. a bit like trying to spot which finger has clear nail polish . additionally , there are no cross hatch pattern on this stick, which usually helps more oil to cling to it. So , paint the end light day-glo green if that helps

there's only oil in 2 places. supposedly .8 litre in engine and .1  litre in rear gearbox. if greatly overfilled, might contribute to spillage if toppled issue. people don't observe correct procedure for check/ refill or they just overfill  ????

" just buy a cheap old bike , problem solved ."

can't dispute that wisdom. friendgirl insisted on shiny new scoopy 12 with little donut wheels. stolen 2 weeks later. literally pushed out of the yard and gone in 2 minutes

they had talked thai uncle into buying it on finance. thank gawd farang not so daft  ????

anyhoo, i would also like recommendation over the phone sim/ gps tracker? what on market?

p.s. who doesn't want nice ride? unfortunately here. gotta have secure place to lock it at night

you have to remember , you're often just seeing a thin film of oil on stick . and these early mio/fino 115cc engines have a queer little check stik

while bottom end ( crankcase is sealed) there will always be a breather-gases evacuation tube(s) and flipped 90 degrees on it's side. oil will find a way out

the book exists in thai . if you have any repair experience ( which you seem to have) you should be able to find the info needed( with your son) that " take it to local shop line" when they botch nearly everything put before them is lol funny

as always , the quality of responses is dictated by accuracy and framing of the

original post question . and , everyone who responded contributed bits of truth. 

the OP stated in was a carbureted model. that immediately dates it as 2006-2011

the electrical system on nearly all these early scoots is barely adequate to light bulbs& charge battery

some talk of a big bore kit. well, very common& inexpensive 'thai modify ' . increases displacment, not necessarily compression ratio. what? 115cc to 140cc ?

because any more than that, you're going to need different camshaft, carb, other bits. it's going to become immediately apparent it has been altered

stuck fuel valves, electric chokes, failing aged relays, starter motors, dirty carburetor

all things mentioned by members incl change battery. i'm just saying you might of dumped a perfectly good bike, with a minor problem over all this mysterious hocus-pokus - piston & cylinder kit talk

can't . on these little scoots it's a self-contained mechanism bolted to cvt belt cover.

you can remove the cover from bike , and the kick-start lever is still nearly impossible to move . frozen from non-use

lots of people unload/sell these things because they need a 400฿ battery and the kick/ emergency start useless

it more closely resembles a pull- start on a lawnmower , than a conventional motocy kick-start. literally. that's a good example

i have looked and searched for an english shop manual. never found one. parts pdf , owners book, partial or addendums or sections. only ever seen thai version complete

คู่มือซ่อม รุ่นเก่าหรือคาร์บู

( repair book old or carb model

there is a long , long list of variables as to why one of these 1st gen step thrus ( we're talking 15 yrs old now) won't fire or difficult to start when cold or hot . 

as for 10k quote, blatant rip-off. so much for " take it to dealer" just absurd

i'm just going to touch on the kick start mechanism. these get crusty & bind. little more than a large watch spring in there. a pawl and ratchet. the cover must be removed and it hosed down with oil. or they don't work at all. emergency or not. you certainly can't gauge engine compression or how much force/ torque is required to spin engine. 

yes, i think there may be an epoxy that's resistant to petrol. it quite easily detaches( as in a few hard jolts on road might do it. )

engine vacuum works valve ( closed when engine not cranking running) and if diapragm bad, it can starve motor of fuel. 

i've got inline filters. maybe removing it entirely easiest option????

i took a little photo here to assist. i appreciate comments from actual tradesmen. what we have here is a vacuum petrol valve such as one would find on bottom of scooter tank. what i'm

looking for is a little glue to hold the fine mesh plastic filter in place on the aluminum casting( while submerged in gasohol . )while unboxing, i discovered the flimsy plastic tubes easily disconnect( pop out) and this is not how i want to install these

a few observations  . the tire wear appears perfectly normal . we really shouldn't be using the tweaked, plastic fender as a reference point for wheel tracking , alignment or whatever

get a 6 inch scale , measure distance from fork to tire or rim. i,m guessing it's close

if there were spacers missing, the axle nut would not tighten but try and compress forks together

this is drum brake option , i saw a disc brake version( mounted on right side)  that had same look about it. p.s. just another old guy blathering 

we were talking about tire / wheel combos on another thread . the baby yamahas ( fino, mio 115) have wheel widths 1.4 in and 1.6 in the 125's have a 1.85 in rear. i'm guessing the aerox is wider still. you can only change the width so much before the curvature of tire is compromised. and it doesn't rub on coilovers or whatever else. hopefully maintain close to same outside dia so gearing and speedo not affected. a160 / 60 -14 is same outside dia but would it physically fit. the big tire craze seems to have hit philippines. many utube vids showing tire combos . i disavow all knowledge of this post / material

as a maths exercise . i calculate  the resulting gearing reduction at 3.5% over stock but same as tyres you're taking off. we can all rest easy

14 in = 35.6cm + 8cm(x2)

x(π) = 162cm/ revolution 

to correct myself, doing some thai language searches on inner

tubes with these wheels it appears they can be run both ways ( tubeless w/ special valve stems or conventional w/tube) i've got 2 125's one spoked and one with alloys, both running inner tubes 70/90-14 front 90/90-14 rear

tire ยางนอก tube ยางใน

not tubeless . while 14 inch dia " law maxx" alloys are an option on many scoots , google ล้อ แม็กซ์ gt 125 i'm unsure what's actually on your bike( gt's come standard with these wheels) as do mx models. and for sale on aftermarket

it's not unheard of for boys to mount 17" wheels on these step-thrus. so better measure what you've got there as your clearance comment is concerning. the 1st # is width of tread in mm . the 2nd # is carcass height as a % of width( profile). 3rd # fits wheel dia.  minor deviations from stock specs might be possible. likely speedo incorrect

baffling , every thai boy in country seems to immediately rip off mirrors , chain guard , rear plastic fender , even on larger bikes ???? these extra precautions for guests . well , i'm off to apply those bullet-hole decals just came in

maybe encourage brothers to learn something of motocy repair/ maintenance or cycle will just keep repeating itself . i'd be

very surprised if new wave > 50k sometimes fat tire bikes are more practical as well????

the 1st dimension you would need to check , shock length , from mounting hole centerline top to mounting hole centerline bottom . i believe mio is ~ 300mm with pcx150 being ~ 350mm then , are mounting bolts same diameter . 3rd , what of spring rates ? as you're essentially doubling rate which i would speculate, provide a firmer, perhaps harsh ride ( with rear sagging 2 inches also)

i've just sent  project click on it's way with a very happy friend-girl recipient (gratis)deal ofthe month for her. me , not so much

anyway , back to project yamaha which exhibits all symptoms of your spark. if voltmeter readings are in correct range & no current drains. the rectifier/regulator and internal diodes should be good. are headlights bright? another clue . and part is approx 200฿. already got new battery

i've long suspected the starter motor of just plain being old& wornout. gotta inspect the brushes in that. probably 50฿ part. it's only money