Jump to content

maRS2

Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by maRS2

  1. For 300 hp you will need:

    Turbo Garrett GT 2260V from a BMW 330D 2004 - 2007 (many on Ebay).

    Big front mount intercooler.

    Free flowing 3" exhaust turbo-back this to get lower egt(exhaust gaz temperature)

    Ecu=shop diesel monster box with a proper remap of the boost to not pass the 55 nm of torque to protect gear box and clutch but keep this value up the rev. as HP= 1,36x RPM x Torque.

    map it to max rail pressure possible ( remenber gazer have power According to air that you can inject but diesel have power according to fuel injected.)

    more advance timing and longer injection duration. with that you should be close to 300 hp.

    Ecu=shop:

    http://www.cm-club.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19236

    http://www.cm-club.com/vb/showthread.php?t=30114

    For more you will need bigger injector nozzle and Holset HE400 turbo.

    But nozzle are very hard to find for those car. they are easy to find fo VAG TDI and for big diesel american truck but for our japanese they are super hard to find.

    Explanation about nozzle:

    http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/-strse-tem...ate=nozzleswork

    see link for nozzle.

    http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeInjectors.htm

    http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/-strse-VW-...2703/Categories

    I'm myself trying to get my Vigo to the 300 mark. GT2260v is ordered.

  2. not yet dynoed

    much improve throtle response

    much much faster acceleration. on a straight that I do every day to work where i could get 160 KM/H now I get 180 KM/H before the turn.

    better MPG (if Can drive same like befor)

    before top speed was 180 Km/H now litle over 190Km/h .stoping their because of diesel pump cuting (regulation).

    I will ask if they can move the regulation 300 or 400 rpm higher.

    They just need to plug the computer to the D3000 box and change some timing and regulation point.

  3. the D3000 was my step 1 upgrade and it can be remap by computer for furthrer upgrade.

    my step 2 will larger injector and nozzle and tweak the Map sensore signal with potentiometer

    to make it beliew it get less boost than real and there for in fact get more boost to burn this execess of fuel given by large injector and nozzle. hope to get another+ 30hp.

    My step 3 will be to build a twin turbo compound setup.

    infact add a big holset HX35 on top of the original vnt to get some boost at high rpm where the vnt start to run out of puff.

    Hope to get around 300 Hp

    this what the US guy's do on their diesel truck & also some uk's on TDI's

    here are some exanple

    http://www.stcperformance.com/dodgeturbo.htm

    http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152729

  4. For sure better bigger exhaust is alway's better on turbo car's (not NA) as it will give better spool up and lower the EGT (exhaust gas temperature).

    But this is not such a problem on diesel car as they have anyway lower egt( around 800° c) compare to petrol car 1000° C.

    Also when you tune up a diesel car you lower the A/F ratio injecting more diesel and this cool down the EGT as in a petrol car you would put less gas to make the A/F higher to get more power and this would increase daramaticaly the EGT and could bring some Knock. this is why you need to free the exhaust on petrol turbo car to let the heat go out and bring back down the EGT.

  5. Their is no chip replacement or remap possible on the vigo.

    So it's piggy back and with this the ecu see some number coming back from the different sensor like:

    MAP, MAF.... and going out to the injection pump, Boost freqency valve control.... that are twicked down or up depending on what the tuner want's to make think the ecu to get what he want's.

    This shiting trick will make the ecu advance the timing give more pressure to the injection and add some boost.

    But in fact the ecu never see any higher value than OEM. If it would see more it would put the car in limp mode ( no boost and very poor injection).

    So if you have the right connector's for the piggy back box to the Ecu (and don't cut any wire) then you can remove it anytime you go to Toyota and theire is no way that they ever see that you add one.

    I read all your comment's about changing the vigo brake and make me smile!!!

    The other day I saw one Vigo with uge 4 pot caliper and disque this is only for the blink blink I guess.

    I don't see how on those Thai straight road with a car only doing 180 you can ever make the brake fade. Only if you track it but who want to track such a slow car?

    I own a vigo 3.O D4D with D controler here in thailand and their is no way that I uprate more than the pads on it. it would add too much non suspend weight and make the car even slower and less good handling.

    Back home in the french alps I have audi RS2 Tuned up to 400 hp and their it's another story I got those uge 350 mm disque with 4 pot calliper from a Porsche GT3 RS.

    But when you go full speed down hill some time 240 KM/H on small road with at the end some 180 turn that you must take at 80 Km/H and theire is 10 of those jumping to your face one after an other then you need to get the best against fading.

    Puting bigger brake on such a lite tail car is totaly stupid as all the braking power will be in the front.

    In fact only the Porsche beed very big brake on thye rear cause of the weight of the engine in the back.

    If you don't have enough braking power in the back you can always down shift some gears.

    That 's the fun of the vigo ( because so light in the tail) come to a nice curve at about 100 Km/h pull down the second gear and sleep the clutch fast then the rear wheel block and you get a nice drift that you can keep untill the end of curve with the throtle.

×
×
  • Create New...