bbradsby

Yikes, slight correction to my post above: Ducs come from the factory geared extra low to pass noise emissions tests via a two-tooth undersized rear sprocket. This keeps the RPM lower during the drive-by sound test. The mod is to go to a larger rear sprocket with two more teeth.

I, for one, never bothered with the mod, and commuted, road tripped and tracked my bikes. Only a few times coming out of corners on-track, red mist-enshrouded eyesight, did I wish for different gearing for my Superbike. As for my Duc here, It's tall first gear feels stock, but I haven't bothered to count the sprocket teeth - anyone who does race launches in BKK is asking for a T-BOne with a red-light-runner in a car. I let the eager scooter boy wave run interference blocking when the light changes to green.

Cmon guys. More BS about Ducatis by non-owners and renters for fooks sake...

They don't overheat in traffic more than any other bike. On Duc Superbikes since 2001, never had one overheat. And no, the undertail exhausts don't burn your butt...

The Monster 795 RENTERS (not owners) you referenced probably dont know how to properly launch a Duc from a stop. A Duc sport bike can be launched very quickly, as their power to weight ratio is very good, wheelbase longer than a Monster. Yr Kawi likely has a longer wheelbase, thus advantageous in a drag launch. Apples vs Oranges.

BTW, even with an experienced rider/bike combo... quicker from a stop does not mean a more powerful engine. Ducs are geared extra low via a two tooth oversized rear sprocket in order to clear the noise regulations. Theyre designed to run on a slightly smaller sprocket and a knowledgeable dealer will already know this and be ready to switch it out if race launches or tight, technical track time are important to you - drag starts are typically not that important to Duc owners, as these are sport bikes, not thrash-n-toss crap. But most Superbike enthusiasts back home had already switched out to smaller sprockets.

For typical maintenance parts, there are countless bike part shops in Chinatown, close to Hualumpong Train Station. Its a fun afternoon adventure first time. after that, you should know which shops can get parts for your particular bike.

I even found a reliable, knowledgeable shop for my Alfa Romeo parts! So you should be able to find what yr looking for, esp Japanese iron.

the o-rings and fuel lines have all long ago been reformulated for resistance to alcohol, but ethanol is hygroscopic, so will collect water from the air and condense it in your gas tank.

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So if you have a real machine you don't consider a throw - away scooter, enrich the fuel-air ratio, get some epoxy tank sealer for your baby and change out the fuel lines preemptively. I noticed my 2001 bike's in-tank fuel pump's wiring contacts had corroded washers & nuts, but not terminal posts; so possibly these should be changed out to stainless steel. My old aluminum-tanked bike corroded completely through at the low spots due to water separation. I guess the water was alkaline pH.

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US Govt NREL labs have a plethora of info, and this one was pertinent IMHO: http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy12osti/52909.pdf It deals with E10 endurance testing of small, marine two- & four-stroke engines that -like bikes - run at high loads (hull/wind resistance) and have high power-to-weight/displacement ratios.

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Their tests ran the engines at wide open throttle for 300 hours to accelerate wear, to simulate aging & long-term effects of E15 fuel. All engines ran hotter, leaner and metal weakening in the piston and valves were identified due to the added heat of ethanol combustion. Their big bike equivalent had valve failure from heat stress cracking; The two-stroke had a catastrophic crank bearing failure that was blamed on reduced lubricity or oil dispersion by the ethanol, so be warned! Your two-smoke is not welcome in the 21st Century. I'd go to full synth 2T and track the plug color carefully.

for me, it was fun writing "Ask for ID" on the purchase receipt in Tesco using my foreign credit card

Do you mean you wrote "Ask for ID" on the credit card purchase slip...instead of your actual signature???

If so, what did the Tesco clerk do and what happened with your purchase???

laughed & cried at same time - multiple purchases went thru w/o a hitch.

I used to print " See ID" on the back of my credit cards where the signature goes. Worked great until I tried to use them in Thailand. They thought "See ID" was my Signature.

thought i was the only one this happened to inLoS. for me, it was fun writing "Ask for ID" on the purchase receipt in Tesco using my foreign credit card. Thai banks won't let you write this phrase in lieu of your signature on the card. As they have no risk exposure, and evidently no scruples, they have no incentive to change anything at all.

... I’ve spent a couple of hours reading on the subject due to your reply and can find nothing to support your view – every source indicates the need for a simple air vent as per these examples:

“A septic tank sewage system naturally produces methane and hydrogen sulphide gases (caused by bacteria breaking down the organic material in the wastewater). These gases smell, are dangerous, and are 'greenhouse gases' which are 21 times more polluting than carbon dioxide. Sinks and baths, therefore, have loops of pipe called P-traps that hold water in the lower loop and block the septic tanks gases from flowing back into the house. The gases flow up a ventilation or soil vent pipe instead -- if you look at any house, you will see one or more vent pipes going up the side of the house or poking through the roof. There should also be a vent pipe fitted on the outlet side of the tank.” (http://www.wte-ltd.co.uk/design.html - well worth viewing for anyone building their own septic tank).

“A vent pipe is required to allow the gas, formed in the septic tank by breakdown of excreta, to escape. The vent pipe can be installed on the sewer pipe running from the house to the septic tank, using a 100 millimetre diameter PVC "T" and a PVC reduction from the 100 millimetre diameter sewer size to 50 millimetres in diameter. The vent pipe layout is shown in Figure 7. The vent pipe should be 50 millimetres in diameter, reach roughly half a metre above the top of the house and have a fly screen covering the end.” (http://www.who.int/w...ncies/fs3_9.pdf - World Health Organization).

If you still do not agree with me, I’d be pleased if you could support your view via any online credible source.

Bbradsby: “I think the methane explosion comment is 'overblown' LOL <snip> and basic gas dissipation via a 2" or 2 1/2" vent thru roof should easily keep it from getting to a dangerous level.” Of course there is no methane danger if it is vented – that’s exactly what I advised. As to your silly “LOL” comment that only serves to flame, go do some research rather than relying on your own opinion. As only one example of many, “Ventilation is essential due to the gases produced by the decomposing organic matter. If no ventilation is present, the septic tank will soon become an explosive environment. One should also bear in mind that in a confined environment like a septic tank, Methane can become an asphyxiate which kills you in seconds.” (http://www.wte-ltd.c...nk_dangers.html). Please do note, “…an explosive environment.”

Congrats, you passed your introductory coursework for your online degree in the Use of Google! YES, we actually agree, your Googled opinion and my professional opinion, that venting is the best practice. But the lack of venting in residences is not an explosion risk, sorry. Your posted links were a joke actually. I have the California Plumbing Code on my laptop in pdf format... so if you require some real information, not your pompous off- gassing, just give me your credit card number and I'll send you my billing rates.

However, the rest of us are trying to help the OP out with some out-of-box thinking. Now then:

To the OP, one of your pix show far too much slope, which tends to leave the solid matter behind as the water speeds away. This may in fact be the root of your problem - an obstructed pipe, where you'd least expect it, that is siphoning your bowl trap. Slope should be 1/8" to 1/2" per foot, even as 1/4" is the figure to use. I don't recommend the 1/8", as it's difficult to achieve in the field. Snake the toilet, and see if that doesnt solve your problem. How many meters/feet away from that drain pipe is the closest vent stack?

If you can't manage/stand another vent up through the roof (VTR in professional parlance), the "Island Vent" - as in, a kitchen sink installed on an island in the middle of the kitchen, away from any walls - is what I suggested in my first post to you. It uses the branch drain as the vent, via being oversized enough to let the gas pressure equalize within the pipe. Just have a VTR as close by as possible, and the one on the tank doesn't count.

You're more at-risk with each piece of the project you hand over to one party - ownership/funding liaising/expertise/management & oversight of design & construction! At some point, a tipping point is reached, and he controls the entire business endeavor. Whose best interests do you suppose get covered first at that point? You're putting all your golden eggs in his basket, and theres nothing contractually in-place to keep him honest.

You, as a layperson, need a professional builder - but to adequately protect your interests, you really must have an independent set of eyes on everything, from the consultants' selection & drawings; phasing, budgeting & scheduling; the spec'd materials; and the actual labor and materials that show up onsite. This is where a CM as owner's agent may be the best fit for your needs.

BEst is to retrofit a vent thru roof, but there are one-way valves on the market already. Theyre not accepted by US Code, FWIW. If your upstream toilet is gurgling, then it is acting as the one-way valve you desire. If the VTR is too painful to consider, maybe just install a 3" PVC running trap upstream of that toilet and install a trap primer so it never runs dry, and you have access so you can inspect it.

I think the methane explosion comment is 'overblown' LOL... because the septic tank should have a T fitting at its head that forms a gas trap/stop so no methane from the tank (the methane digester in the system) should have a path to the pipes upstream. There should be nothing sitting in the pipes to degrade and form any dangerous levels of methane, and basic gas dissipation via a 2" or 2 1/2" vent thru roof should easily keep it from getting to a dangerous level.

I do like the closed-loop idea, and if you have a 4" pipe serving the toilets, then it should be big enough to circulate air internally to balance pressure as the water flows through it. Make sure there are no clogs, tree roots, obstructions or low spots in the pipe run that will hold water and constrict the airflow. Underground sections of pipe are most susceptible.

Many thanks for the detailed response!

I kinda figured some of it out, but not everything you mentioned, and it gets interesting since the 'infinity edge' (dontcha love marketingBS-speak?) becomes an air gap - below the water level in the pool!!! - in what would be an otherwise closed-loop system. For resort pools, I'm used to seeing [my pool consultants design] large surge tanks to temporarily accommodate the water displaced by fifty people or so, but we're not seeing 'Infinity Edge' pools Stateside much, likely because all resort clients either are lawyers or have their legal counsel on speed dial, and the slip & fall risks from drunks and/or unsupervised children seem countless for this edge design.

For this pool villa, the Aussie owner (my client) wants to take on the pool system design as a kind of puzzle, and he is a mathematician! I've advised him I'm very far from being a pool designer, and that getting it wrong may result in garden floods and/or pumps being burnt out. I love his spirit, as back in the Colonies, clients just press #1 to ring up their legal counsel and make these horrible whinging sounds if the universe is not perfect.

In the end, the client will have a go at it, but possibly may need your expertise in the future.

Hi TV Pool Wizards,

So... am looking at self-building an infinity edge pool, and wonder how to size the basin or tank that captures the infinity edge overflow so that the pump doesn't ever catch air (cavitate) and burn out, and also big enough so that it doesnt overflow and flood the garden due to pump under-sizing? Is there a system diagram anyone can point me toward that shows how this type of system works? So far, Google's not been my friend...

thx in advance!

YOu should have the cracks in your structure looked at by an expat architect or construction manager to make sure they're not from structural movement. Many are just shrinkage of the brick or block wall or cement render finish, not the structure. How wide are the cracks, and where's your house?

To the OP, PM sent...

Unless you plan to build it all yourself, pointing & waving's not all that effective ...It's hard to plan, do take-offs, much less work with a builder or even workers, using a sketch, napkin or xerox of a not-to-scale, miniature plan in a book. And FWIW, getting a Thai engineer's set of drawings for a house designed exactly around your specific needs & desires is really not that expensive - and that cost will likely be saved in change orders, delays & lost sleep while trying to convey the design & constructing requirements to Thai builders or laborers.

Hi, the pressure was OK for taps but not for our rain shower, I think the height was OK but it is a few metres from the house them there is all the pipework too. I'm not a water expert buy maybe it is friction? Either way, in order to have a decent shower we need the pump.

A couple of meters' head height won't get you the 40-50 PSI or so that's needed for a decent shower or kitchen faucet flow, much less fill a washing machine or bathtub in a reasonable amount of time.

There's a formula for head pressure, and Google is likely yr friend on this one, but I don't have it handy. PM me if you need it and I'll drag it up from analog world - we just went through this on a project.

We do have a local guy here who has done 1 shop house project and is on his 2nd.

He also owns a building suppliers and has the guys to do the job.

I think it might be best to go in with him ! Always a risk but got to take a gamble to get anywhere these days.

Where is your site?

With a local who is both the builder AND the materials supplier, your funds are at more risk since he has no incentive to get you the best price on materials - a huge proportion of construction cost in Thailand since labor is so cheap. LEt him possibly build the project, but make him compete on materials pricing with other vendors, based on a materials take-off/bill of materials.

You should get a professional project manager to manage the whole design & construction process, and protect you from getting fleeced.

Don't worry. In the long run protectionist policies don't strengthen a country. Thailand will eventually find itself uncompetitive, unprepared and therefore unable to compete in a global world. No help to those TV contributors who want to own property here but I can't understand why anyone would want to anchor themselves to a country that has the potential to become unstable and offers few rights or protection to the foreigners who live here.

APEC is [maybe?] coming - tho Thailand still is devising ways to exclude foreign businesses & professionals. But, for now, we all make this our home, so 'some day' is of little use. And equitable foreign trade rules are precisely what need to be put in place to make it competitive - a level playing field.

But without external pressure from foreign government missions, the thais have the best of BOTH worlds - free reign abroad, and total reign over foreign investors & expats in Thailand. It needs to change.

Read it again mate and then you might be able to comprehend ! duhhh.

What he is saying is, that he cannot have the same rights that any rich Thai can get in his original country. In case you don't know and it appears that you do not ! Firstly he cannot own land in Thailand, and then he has to apply for a retirement visa every 12 months and come up with all that cash. He is pointing out to those like you who obviously do not know this, the unfairness of the Thai regulations even though he has a Thai family. Please try to understand before you make sarcastic replies.

Thank you.

+1 to this comment - it makes me furious. The foreign affairs/ministries/state departments with embassies in Thailand really MUST stand up for their citizens for reciprocal rights vis a vis foreign investment. Thais should be absolutely forbidden from owning >49% in businesses and ANY interest in real property overseas until they stop excluding similar foreign investment and the expatriate community in general in Thailand. Period.

I said "Look man I'm outdoors you know,

Can I stay with you maybe a couple days?"

He said "Let me go and ask my wife"

He said "I don't know man, ah she kinda funny, you know"

Said "Look man, come down here", he got down there

So what you want?

One bourbon, one scotch, one beer

aaahh, that's WELL before rap/hip hop. Those lyrics are American Bluesman John Lee Hooker's work. Amazing performer.

All over Asia, high-rise fires often spread quickly up through unsealed vertical shafts or slab penetrations for pipes/ducts/conduit, as well as via open stairwells that - even by locally-adopted building codes - are required to be sealed off.

Caveat emptor, Western apartment/hotel guests & expat office workers!

! ALL concrete cracks. period.

!! knowing what's structure vs. infill construction, and knowing a concrete shrinkage crack from a movement crack are what's important.

!!! if you don't have this expertise, and you care about these issues, hire an independent, professional, architect or engineer to inspect and provide a report directly to you.

!!!! if you're looking at high rises, buy in buildings BUILT in 2008 or later, by a reputable developer. The Codes were upgraded in 2007 after an international seismic working group reported their findings for the Bangkok metro area.

Feel free to PM me if you require more info.

get on whatever bike blows yr skirt up. just get out there and ride. Thailand's open roads are a great break from city riding. Just watch the U-turns... total demolition derbies.

IF... one is building it him/herself and can knowledgeably design & engineer and produce/modify construction drawings for construction in LoS, maybe none of this matters. This IS the DIY Housing Forum, after all! Lots of guys here have many years' experience in the trades back home. Others are best advised to get professional help, as building in Thailand is a minefield, as many of this Forum's threads will attest.

FWIW, the Thai plans on-file in the govt offices don't add up to anything useful unless you don't need to change anything.... not bloody likely! And Thai architects generally don't 'get' Western Expat expectations, culturally, as embodied in what the Expat thinks of when they think: "Home," and their designs reflect this. Neither do many of them understand what we consider a professional standard of service.

YOu also have no idea of the level of competence of the engineering/design represented in the 'free' drawings, as youre just picking them up and using/modifying them... that's Russian Roullete with a pretty big investment.

Then if you materially change the design, you have to get the drawings re-done, period. And it better be by someone who knows (generally reinforced concrete on piles) design & engineering in Thailand. Else youre pretty exposed to building systems failure and/or getting ripped off by a builder due to incomplete drawings & specs.

As in all things, its important to know one's strong suites, and the weak ones, and act accordingly.

One other option if it turns out that there are problems with the ceiling support could be to use high rating building adhesive to stick a mounting bracket or wood block to the concrete ceiling that reached down to the height of the ceiling [snip]

DANGER, DANGER WILL ROGERS!!!

much concrete construction uses a form-release chemical that is left on the concrete if it is intended to be concealed, no finish applied later. It will impede the bond of many chemicals/coatings. We wouldn't want to depend on it to hold up a heavy metal object over our bed, complete with rotating blades, if we'd appreciate a sound night's sleep, now would we?!

Yes understand!! In my place no form release chemical - just rough cast concrete with some remaining bits of wood! It was not a new house when I bought it! Cheers!

sorry, dude. didn't mean to offend you. my post was meant more to warn unsuspecting folks about the danger if they don't know about form release chemicals - only construction pros usually know about this stuff. When I see all the cheap, unbalanced fans in LoS that wiggle around and shake the ceiling, as an architect, I can't stop thinking about what's actually holding them up and it would do if one fell on someone.