jack2964

My battery is rated at 65AH and like I mentioned earlier I've never seen it drop below the 'Full' LED indicator even after using it to inflate the boat and then hours on the lake.

And charge indicator on the solar charger/controller too shows 100% full after a trip on the water. I am a little doubtful on the accuracy of both these indicators but then this really isn't my concern.

What I am really after is since the solar charger hasn't the 'capabilites' (no constant I or V modes) of a smart charger would it then be detrimental to my battery if I depend solely on the solar charger alone?

btw, the solar cells is rated at 1A and controller is 10A.

Can't find an appropriate place for this thread so I'll try here. Mods please move as fit.

I have a deep cycle EK brand thai made battery (12V lead-acid) which I use for my trolling motor on my boat. The batt is mounted inside a box with a 4 LED capacity indicator (Recharge-Half-Full)) and have never seen it go below 'Full'. Previously after each outing I put it straight on charge with a 'smart charger' and it takes about 12 hours plus to fully charge the batt but I have recently acquired an 18W solar charger with controller and I understand it only handles 'trickle' charging. My question is; say if the batt is partially drained e.g 3/4 capacity or less would the solar charger be capable of fully charging the batt. With the 'smart charger' I know it has both constant current and voltage modes and finally trickle charge to ensure batt longevity. So would the solar charger with just trickle mode suffice without compromising batt longevity? I am aware it would take few days of full on sun to fully recharge a partially depleted batt on solar cells.

I urgently need to do a transfer from St.George to another financial institution within Sydney but am experiencing trouble staying logged in. I am able to log into St.George successfully but the moment I click on the many links within e.g read messages or check balance the screen changes immediately to one that says...'Your session has expired...pls log in again'; so I re-login and the same happens. I hope it is a temp glitch with St.G. Would appreciate if someone who has an account with St.G verify if theirs is OK.

Many thanks in advance.

I like this one:

Silver-eared Mesia at a watering hole, Mae Wong NP.

Av mode; 1/250sec; ISO2500; F4.5; F/L300mm; off axis flash fired.

These are a real challenge for me and I like the way this looks. I avoid flash like the plague as a rule but there are times you just have to go with it. I see you have the ISO pumped up and quite a fast sync speed (faster than my gear will cope with. Did you dial the flash down or fire on auto? You seem to have kept the illumination limited to the central region (which I very much like as it focuses attention). Did you need to do much editing?

Can't recall which flash mode I chose as I kept switching between Manual and HSS. This was probably HSS with minus 3-stops in an attempt to provide fill flash only. The waterhole was under deep shade and it would be near impossible to get a shot without motion blur without the flash. The flash head was triggered wirelessly with a pair of Yong Nuo triggers with the head displaced about a meter above and off axis of the camera. This was edited only with ACR. The parameters adjusted were exposure, brightness, contrast, white balance, clarity, saturation and then sharpened. No noise reduction at all.

I don't have an answer for you as I too find it incredibly hard to catch fish in the wild. Best is to tap into local knowledge or copy what the local folks do. I've seen guys with up to 20 rods set up by the banks and all use 'lam' (dough balls) on coil feeders and even then their results aren't good. But occasionally they do land some very good sized carp like Rohu over 5 or 6 kg. Generally they get smallish catfish.

They are big but the pic is distorted he holds his hands towards the camera.

True, but these are the biggest I've ever seen them. Using the bloke's hands as a frame of reference helps in sizing the fish.

Anyway, I know they will take 'lam' (dough balls) but I'd rather drop shot using Texas or Carolina rigs with rubber/plastic worms. Would like to hear if anyone has had success using fake worms.

I have fished over 2 years in this reservoir and never seen anyone caught Tilapia of this size until y'day.

I would love to catch these on light tackle, anyone knows what is the best method for tilapia?

I have the dame problems with white - it is a real problem with Canon. I am not ken on ND filters (I like to use them but for birding shots they are too awkward for me) I usually just set at -3 to -6 and this usually works but in overcast or dull jungle lighting this can be a problem also. My 6D seems to cope a bit better than the 60D in this respect but this is most likely the extra data that can be used in RAW processing.

Should have used Man mode for this shot to slightly underexpose it and use ACR to tweak it. But as usual with this fidgety subjects one grabs the chance offered. I must have another dozeb shots which are no good, mainly motion blur. The 6D being FF would have helped here I think.

IMG_0502c.jpg

Nice!

Where was this taken from?

Quote: Only ever seen the red vented once and that was at the entrance to Hellfire Pass and red and yellow vented were both together.

Over in lower NE Isaan they are all orangey vented.

Anyone have experience with the Shimano Bait runner or similar spinning reels. Also. has any one been fishing in Bo Saeng, Chiang Mai?

Never owned one before but I had a Ryobi baitrunner many many years ago when I used to fish for Tilapia and Carp. It worked pretty well for me then.

Don't know about Bo Saeng. I once fished at a pay pond near my village and didn't get any joy out of it. These days I fish only in the wild.

I have 5 bait casters and they get regular use but all are magnet controlled casting apart from an abu mgx, the abu has an ivcb control system which is beginning to show signs of wear after 3 years,

@ jack...i guess you bought a shimano? All parts are easily available even tuning parts such as ceramic bearings and lighter spools,

My lastest acquisition is also an antares but the digital controlled model, so easy to use even casting into wind.

My first Shimano baitcaster was a cheapo - model 'Salty One'. I managed to break that one barely into 2 years of fishing. The level-winder would get stuck at end of travel and of course made a mess of line laying in the spool. I retired that reel and went a bit silly buying both the Antares HG and Aldebaran. I find the Antares a bit heavy and quite tiring as I toss lures all day long. The feather-weight Aldebaran is my favorite now. Both reels are a joy to cast but I still get bird-nests specially so after changing lures (rather frequently) and being careless with fine tuning the cast control tension. You know how it is when the fish are on a rampage all too briefly.

Between the 2, I find the Aldebaran easier to get right in setting brake and cast knob tension.

Note: The brake bits are different sized in all 3 reels.

Good news is that my Shimano Calcuttas, Curados, and others have 6 of the nubbins.

I have never worn one out, even after decades of using some of the reels. But since I only engage 2 or 3 at once, my plan is to swap to the ones that don't get engaged if the others ever do wear out. I stand ready...

I wouldn't sweat a replacement for a few years at least.

What brand are the reels? That may helps someone identify a Thai source of parts if they're popular brands (or dastardly clever knockoffs)

I've googled this and I couldn't find any discussion about those plastic bits wearing off. It just goes against logic that they are so resistant to wear.

I am a Shimano fan myself and recently treated myself to an Antares HG and an Aldebaran BFS XG. Love 'em both!

So I guess it is safe to conclude; the brakes would outlive the reels.

Being relatively new to baitcasters, I have a question regarding wear of the adjustable plastic tabs found in centrifugal braking systems.

I understand those little plastic tabs one flicks 'ON' to engage work on friction and surely this would result in wear over time.

My question is how does one know they are worn and replacement is due and where can one source these parts?

Had it been a slow decompression as reported then the Cabin Altitude Warning System would have activated both aural and red alert visual warnings. The pilots would have then taken immediate remedial measures to descend and the oxy masks wouldn't have deployed. This sounds more like rapid decompression followed by auto deployment of masks as designed. Anyway, glad all turned out well.

Issue successfully resolved. Seller has sent me a Paypal invoice.

Confusion arose due partly due to my not having dealt with Paypal in this manner and seller who kept asking for my Paypal account when in fact he meant to ask for my email address which is linked to Paypal. There isn't an account number associated with Paypal as such.

Thanks all who offered help.

The seller is a reputable one as far as I can tell from reading forum posts of members (not TV) who have bought stuff off him before.

He only accepts Paypal which means he has an account.

I'll ask for a Paypal invoice as suggested by ATF.

Thanks for feedback.

I am attempting to make a payment via my Paypal account to a Japanese online retailer who accepts Paypal.

On all my previous online purchases e.g Ebay, I have simply clicked on the Paypal logo and then would be redirected to logon to my account and make the payment. Simple.

This retailer I am dealing with has no Paypal logo to click on. So do I logon to my account and select 'Send Money' tab and then enter email address of retailer and amount due?

This is the first time I am dealing with a retailer without a 'clickable' Paypal logo and hope someone who has done so before can show me how it is.

I have of course communicated several times with the seller but he doesn't seem to understand what I am on about.

Thanks in advance.