Pogust

I have a problem with smell in bathroom that I can't figure out. Have tried everything I can think of. It doesn't smell all the time, but comes for a few days and then it's OK again some days. I found what looked like a crack in the first throne that could allow smell to come through, so took that back to Thaiwatsadu and changed for a new of the same model. That seemed to work for some time, then smell is back.

Toilet sealed to the 100mm pipe with original butyl seal, then the whole joint is wrapped in butyl flashing tape. The septic tank is nearby, with a working vent on it. I drilled a small hole in the pipe from toilet to tank just to make sure there is no pressure build up there. The smell seem to coming through the water lock in toilet. I have a small extractor fan in the wet areas, just 15Watts. Enough air coming in the house that there should not be any vacuum.

I'm about to change for another brand of toilet, as a last desperate attempt. But it doesn't make sense. Anyone out there with an idea??

I would suggest polyurethane paint. Only problem is it dries so fast it needs to be sprayed on. Will be difficult with a paintbrush. That is almost strong as epoxy and stands sunlight well.

Thailand has become a battling ground for the struggle of power between US and China. US has long had strong influence in Thailand, but now Cina as the raising power gain influence and Thai military and polititians has to choose side.

Taksin had connections with USA and that may be one of the reasons behind the coup. And the struggle continues by different means.

https://journal-neo.org/2019/07/02/why-is-the-financial-times-smearing-thailand/

When I bought the shera roof (painted) I also ordered a small can of touch up paint. There is original roof paint avaiable. It's water based. But I think it's difficult to paint up between the overlaps. Should paint before fitting them.

Do not think you find it in Thailand, they use mostly small flimsy things here. Same with a proper hammer, preferably buy it in Europe.

The green pipes I used is welded together with a special heated tool. Plastic is melted and then quickly pushed together before cold. A lot safer than glued blue pipes. There are 2 different kinds of green pipes, one for cold and one for hot water. There is a white stripe on one, think it was the hot water.

I did everything regarding plumbing and electricity myself, including the drawings. As I understand it you are allowed to do work on your own house, as you are not working for payment. I installed 3 phase in buildings after EU standard, no worker understood what I was doing.... Even the young fellow from Electric board that was supposed to check installation and aprove was lost ;-). Has some bigger "hobby tools" so needed 3 phase.

If you are to supervise housebuilding remember always to tell them at least 3 times what you want. And even after that stay around and check that it gets done. Never tell them anything you want done next day as they will forget it.

If you keep in mind that Thai always do what is easiest for the moment without considering it might casuse more work later, you will understand why they do it their way.

That said there are some workers with good knowledge but you will have to pay more for them. And probably working in BKK or other busy place and not available in countryside.

It's a self levelling liquid cement based "filler" That is commonly used in Europe. But Thai do as they always have. If you want them to change method you have to show them yourself first. Even then they usually revert back to their old way when you turn your back on them....

I guess the old traditional way they use laying floor tiles is cheaper too when labour is cheap here compared to western countries. We did it this way in Europe 40 years ago.

I bought a Honda 4 stroke, it's running very smooth and well. But not enough power to cut brush, barely enough for heavy grasses. Stihl or Husqvarna has the power needed and will last. But they are a different price. I use a Husqvarna in Europe and it does the job.

Me think water fill up in the last drainage tank during heavy rains and push air backwards through the septic and up to toilets. And someone forgot the seal under the toilets.

I would just cut the present hose away with a hacksaw and fit a std hose with hose-clamp. No need to go buy expensive hose with pressed on fittings at the low pressure. Cut diagonally and split the pressed on fitting.

This often happen with worn thai outlets. The quality of the parts are so bad that the flexible parts inside gets loose and don't have enough contact area to the plug you put in. You get a light-arc that melts the plastic contacts. Try taking the cover off the outlet and adjust the metal parts, or better change the whole thing.

15 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

 and a cap or two of bleach once in a while effectively controls algae.

Well green algae is actually cleaning the water for you. It eats the bad organic stuff you don't want and leave a perfectly clean water. If there is some light coming into the tank the algae will grow and feed on anything it can get out of the water. This is the old way of cleaning water in tanks, and how rainwater is collected for drinking. Just keep a mesh over the top so unwanted bigger things don't get in. Usually you also divert the first rainwater away from the tank as it cleans the roof before collection.

In a well there might be minerals you don't want and that's another story.

I have many times wondered about those footings. My take is it's a leftover from the times when Thai houses were built above ground on poles to allow for a cool area under the house to spend time during the hot days. This of course before the days of A/C.

Then a footing deeper than what water would get during rain period would be essential. Now when most houses has a whole foundation I see no reason to continue old traditions that no longer is meaningful. Why all this extra work when using the same amount of steel and concrete in a foundation at ground level in most cases would be stronger? And a lot faster and cheaper to do. I have built two houses recently this way as we are doing it in the west.

Anyone that has a logic explanation to this? I'm well aware thinking and logics are not things Thai workers are especially interested in...

I found Kobe LB-52 in Global, however do remember they are more difficult to use. I have seen them in other shops too but not in small shops as Thai handyman can't weld with them.

Best if you can find thinner rods than 2,6 for the 2mm material as they are burning much better on low amps and easier to use.

I'm welding 1,2 and 1,8mm steel profiles with between 38 and 45 amp setting. Use 1,6 and 2mm ESAB OK48 (E7018) that I took here myself. For 1,8 materiel it also works well with 2,6 electrodes in most cases.

I can't see the weld puddle through the slag with Kobe 30 (E6013)electrodes, the most common thai electrode that seem to work best with thai style dab and melt at high amps. That mean I have no control over the result.

Some welds are almost impossible to get right with 2,6mm rods on thin material. There is a rod I found useful, Kobe LB-52 (E7016). They are more difficult to start but I see the weld puddle as I go and that is the main thing. I made most of my roof trusses with that.

Try reducing amp setting as low as possible to allow you to run a continuous weld without burning through material. And still being able to start electrode. Focus on the molten material and keep an even weld puddle as you go. It takes time but you will get experience if you keep on trying. Good eyesight and a bright enough welding helmet is necessary to allow you see what you are doing.

Done plenty welding on the roofs.....

I have used IKEA mattresses for many years, there is no compare if you look at quality to price.

Would Kerry delivery service or similar pick up at the store and transport up to you? It's a small roll 20-30 cm dia that should be easy to transport.

This is how I am building my latest house. A floating "raft" foundation on filled land.

House built with lightweight load-bearing AAC blocks and no heavy roof material.

According to an engineer I asked this would work even in Bangkok area. House is 8 by 13 meters.

Normal cleaners don't etch the surface like lye do, they leave the surface shiny. For maximum adherence of the new paint you need a product that matt down the old paint and create a good grip for the new. That's why caustic soda is used.

If you can get honey that has not been heated, filtered by the large packers it does have pollen grains and enzymes left in it. You can see how runny it is, it's a measure of water content. Should be under 20% to avoid it from fermenting.

Even if there has been 10% sugar added I would still prefer honey from as close to the beehive as possible. Honey is sugars, mainly fructose and glucose anyway... Buy what you like to eat, don't worry too much about adulteration. Stay away from honey you suspect has Chinese origin, they have been treating hives with antibiotics sometimes there.

11 hours ago, kitjohnson said:

@Pogust That screw looks like magic. Did I understand it right: self-tapping into wood, and self-anchoring into AAC? How expensive are they?

That is right, but you would have to pre-drill the wood here as it is too hard to force a 8mm screw through it. 8 x 120mm is 30 baht each. They hold 100-150kg pulling force each. I use them for door frames and hanging cupboard on walls.

Special screws available but doubt that you can find it here. I bought in Sweden and took with me. Works very well and holds a heavy weight.

I'm building with Insee blocks, the loadbearing G4. 20 cm for outside walls and 10 for inside. Price in Rayong area for 20 cm is 55, 10 cm is 31. There is a limit on how few you order, and there has to be full pallets.

I don't need concrete pillars so building is fast and easy. There are lintels above doors and windows made to order and delivered in 2 weeks.

If it's going to be permanent, there is nothing that binds together like epoxy.