mingalaba

When we crossed over up at Mai Sai some years ago talking to the people in the market the feeling I was given that the people of the country wished it to be called Burma as that is "their" name and that Myanmar is the name that represents the governmental control which no one liked.

I felt is was like a Thailand 40 years ago and through distorting glasses.

I liked the place and the people, just a pity all the left hand drive cars drive on the right!

Burma is the name preferred by many of the Burmese, who make up about 50-60% of the population. The many other ethnic groups do not necessarily prefer to have their country named after only one ethnic group.

The name Burma was given by the colonialist British. After the British left, the country immediately switched from driving on the left to driving on the right side of the street.

The reason that most of the cars are right-hand-drive (i.e. the steering wheel is on the right) is that those are second-hand import from Japan.

Your interview sample might not have been representative for the country.

My wife is Kachin and if she hears people referring to Myanmar as Burma she gets angry... Even most of the Bamar, at least in my experiences, use the name Myanmar. It´s a foreigner thing to still use Burma.

As if any Myanmar woman needs some western sex therapist to know she has sexual needs...Not surprising that this article has been written by a Western woman.

Myanmar has a great gender balance, I don´t see why they should listen to westerners who have messed up their entire societies with their inability to have functioning relationships/marriages.

In December of 2012 the first group of bikes in decades was allowed to cross the border into Myanmar. In January 2013, I was part of the third group to be allowed in. A few others have also been in since. It can be done, but it takes alot of red tape.

We crossed the border at Mae Sot into Myawaddi. Then it is a steep and difficult dirt and rock road over the mountains for approximately 50kms. In fact it is so narrow and congested with border traffic that you are allowed travel one way on even days of the week and the other way on odd numbered days. I can't imagine doing that road on a Harley, but we had two BMWs with us (one fell down) and some other 'road bikes' have made the trip since.

Here are two links that will help you out GT Rider guys in Burma , this has the contact information, near the end of the post, of the agency in Myanmar which helped to make it possible.

Here are the photos and the full trip report. Six Days in Myanmar.

Also, 'Google'. A couple of very large groups have made the trip from Malaysia.

I have also been able to cross into Vietnam with my bike, but the paperwork was even more involved than Burma.

I suggest that if you are not familiar with traveling by motorcycle in SE Asia, Thailand and Laos would be the most enjoyable locations to try first.

Good Luck.

Thanks guys for all the info.

The bottom line is Myanmar is STILL a police state and not open for foreigners to travel freely!

It´s a shame, I guess I´ll just keep waiting and hoping............

Parts of it yes... But you can travel to parts in which foreigners are allowed to travel freely and have a good time without being hassled by the police. Just wear a helmet and have a licensed motorbike and you are good to go. The only real issues arise when trying to cross the border or going to areas that are off-limits. Instead of the police I would be more worried about things like bad road conditions, difficult traffic, bad health care, etc

Regarding Mandalay to Bhamo:

The only way is to take a flight...Myitkyina to Bhamo is closed due to the recent conflict and reaching Bhamo from the south should be very difficult.

I am not sure if there are ships from Mandalay to Bhamo...There probably are but I dont know if they are licenced for foreigners. Roads connecting Bhamo to the south are not open either...

A possible way might be to go by train to Naba, then from there to Katha. And then by boat to Bhamo.

No with open I mean really open...No need for permits. But you should check with Zach about that, as far as I know he is planning to go to Muse too so he might have some info for you.

btw there is a farang in mandalay who rents out bikes. maybe mingalaba rented his bike there. driving kachin state and shan state sounds awesome, and i mean being allowed to really travel, not just going from place A to B and then being forced to head back to place A. anyway, never received permit to do so, tried several times. been in the areas 15x in last 5 years and know many people (tachileik, muse, lashio, laiza) living there. all great folks with a remarkable life. funny thing to mention was that a high-ranked immigration officer, i must say very friendly chap too, who forbid me to continue to lashio (coming from hsipaw) last year (blatantly) told me that i was unlucky not being chinese. if i were chinese i could go wherever i wanted (no matter that there was a war going on)... which summarizes the situation in kachin state (and myanmar in general). chinese rule the place, even in tenasserim region, >2000 km away from china border.

No I have my own bike in Myanmar but I know the person you are talking about. His name is Zach and his services are really good. He is the best option to borrow a motorbike when you are in Mandalay.

It´s odd that you have been stopped when going to Lashio. The highway from Mandalay to Lashio is not restricted and the road from Lashio to Muse has been recently opened too.

Be responsible, set an example, and wear a helmet! </rant>

But I did own a 1947 BSA during the late 1990's there. I was later taken to a garage that had original grease wrapped parts - i mean like gear boxes down to the component level. If anyone is looking for a classic motorcycle, this is the place to go. The garage in question would build a bike to order and ready to ship off - Maybe these can now be used in the local market.....This is partly why I believed the spitfire story so much.

Haha.. I wear helmets now. Most of the time anyways

This is just your western way to look at things. Not everyone country has to follow the mantra of equal rights for everyone. Russians don´t want the same rights for gays so it´s their right to have laws that represent this desire. I don´t see the problem. I find it really annoying that western governments and people think that only their values (or lack thereof) are best and they need to be forced upon every country. It´s a bit like modern-day colonialism. The same applies for feminism and other western export products.

And by the way, I don´t hate gay-people, they can do whatever they want, it´s none of my business. I respect everyone. I just don´t like the idea that western values must be forced upon every country and that if a country refuses to accept that, the country is evil and backward.

OK, so you think it is "OK" for countries to blatantly discriminate against gay people and women.

How far do you take your moral relativism?

Is it "OK" for countries to blatantly discriminate against different races?

Different religions?

Is it "OK" for countries to have the death penalty for being gay?

The death penalty for not ratting out a gay person, even if it's your child?

Who is "forcing" western values on Russia?

Is expressing disapproval with their bigoted laws forcing by any stretch of the imagination?

You find it wrong that countries are discriminating against gays... People of other countries find it wrong that gay-marriage is legal in some countries.

Your values are not universally true. This is all I wanted to say...

And yes if a majority of Russians is against gay-marriage and gay-rights then I think that´s the way the laws in Russia should be like. If I like it or not but that´s the way it should be. Who am I to judge how Russian people should think like?

And what do women have to do with anything? I was talking about modern-day feminism, which has nothing to do with discriminating women.

Well most Russians are anti-gay...The government is anti-gay too... Whats surprising about it? Would it be better if the government was pro-gay like the west and thus not representing the majority of the people?

Pro-gay?

Why must some people insist on categorizing everything?

The "west" is not pro gay. Rather, there is an inclination towards the respect of basic human rights in many western countries.

Ensuring equitable treatment under the laws of a country is hardly "pro-gay".

A responsible government does not necessarily represent the majority of the people. Rather it's role is to SERVE all of the people and to ensure that all the citizens it serves are treated equitably. Civics 101.

By your logic, government edicts such as the Nuremburg laws, or the Jim Crow laws, or Apartheid laws were acceptable since a majority were in favour.

This is just your western way to look at things. Not everyone country has to follow the mantra of equal rights for everyone. Russians don´t want the same rights for gays so it´s their right to have laws that represent this desire. I don´t see the problem. I find it really annoying that western governments and people think that only their values (or lack thereof) are best and they need to be forced upon every country. It´s a bit like modern-day colonialism. The same applies for feminism and other western export products.

And by the way, I don´t hate gay-people, they can do whatever they want, it´s none of my business. I respect everyone. I just don´t like the idea that western values must be forced upon every country and that if a country refuses to accept that, the country is evil and backward.

Well most Russians are anti-gay...The government is anti-gay too... Whats surprising about it? Would it be better if the government was pro-gay like the west and thus not representing the majority of the people?

The West is not pro-gay. It is less anti-gay than it used to be, that's all.

What is wrong with equal rights and mutual acceptance I wonder, mingalaba?

The west is pro gay in the way that it allows same-sex marriages. With "Pro-Gay" I don´t mean that the government is actively trying to encourage people to become gay.

Just received a quote for a 4 day/3 night trip for 2 to Chin State. Point of origin is Bagan and price includes; jeep /driver /guide/ lodging/ food /permits. Cost for 2: US$2,690.

I did a similar trip to Arunachal Pradesh, India 2 years back which was 18 days and cost US$3,400.

We all know about hotel prices in Burma but was not expecting such a high price for such a short tour. Agency is Exotissimo and is not the one I plan on travelling with but wanted a second quote for comparison. Still waiting on preferred agency quote.

2690 USD for a 4 days/3 nights trip to Chin state for 2???

Is this an serious offer? Maybe it´s 269 USD and they just made a typing mistake?

I know a guy who has been to Chin-State since some of the travel restrictions have been lifted...Maybe you should look into that instead of doing an expensive guided tour.

airline ranking.pdf

Well most Russians are anti-gay...The government is anti-gay too... Whats surprising about it? Would it be better if the government was pro-gay like the west and thus not representing the majority of the people?

I had an anxiety attack 20 some yrs. ago. I thought I was having a heart attack. After discussing the series of events that led up to it with some very professional paramedics and an emergency room doctor I was fine.<br /><br />What I'm trying say is, not all cases are the same.<br /><br />My next trip to the emergency room about 10yrs later while suffering from a perforated ulcer was an anxiety attack x 10 ( strangest feeling you could imagine and no pain ) They had to give me about 4 injections to calm me down enough to take x-rays before operating.<br /><br />None of the above are joking matters. Hope your friend gets what he needs. Having a good friend like yourself, is very important to him, I'm sure of that.<br /><br />

I can relate to that a lot...

If you don´t know anything about panic attacks when having one you think you are about to die. It feels 100% real...

It´s really incredible how our brain is able to fool us ...

I have been suffering from panic attacks too... Fortunately I managed to control them now.

I dont know if it´s really a good idea to see a doctor, I guess that depends on how severe the panic attacks are.

I learned to deal with panic attacks by:

1. Realising and constantly remembering that I am not going to die. Remember that it´s all in your head

2. Learning breathing techniques that calm you down when anxiety comes up... I didn´t believe in them but they really DO help

So when are the extremists in western countries going to be killed? Can´t wait for that...

Another weird thing:

I would also say that the same applied to my wife as she very rarely
left the house other than to carry out shopping trips.

The day of my wife's departure seemed like any ordinary day and it wasn't

until later that day I started to get concerned. She has stayed
over at her friends house before but always called to let me know.

So she rarely left the house and still often stayed overnight at a friends house? Very strange... Doesn´t make any sense to me.

Maybe he is interested in this mysterious land that might now belong to the Army? He doesn´t even know if his WIFE sells/owns land? What kind of an marriage is that?

And then this Thai girl he is working with for the past 8 years?

It´s all very strange to say the very least

First this:

„I will today be reporting her as missing to the police and file the
necessary report for their record. I will take along to the
station, a copies of marriage cert (Thai/English), blue book (house
now sold), her ID card and British passport, my British passport
together with relevant info, i.e. Retirement extension page.„

Then this:

Wrong. Keep up, I have a COPY of her ID card and British Passport.

I know more about gambling, especially playing cards in Thailand than you ever will.

Again, try to keep up with the postings.

He seems to have become angry when confronted with the passport (either copy or real passport) inconsistency.

If indeed only the copy of her British passport was left behind why did he call the embassy to check if she applied for a new one?

Very strange indeed.

At one point he speaks about a Cousin in Bangna, another time he speaks about a friend in Bangna.

Also if she had no family left why did he say he already visited/met with them after Tommy asked him about it?

First he said he was away when his wife left:

I was away at the time of her disappearance but noticed that she had
taken my video camera (an expensive item).

Then this:

Approximately 3 weeks ago, my wife left the townhouse carrying her shopping bag.

As she didn't return later that day,

Are there internal border checks around Putao? There are, around Tachilek and Keng Tung in Shan State, the two towns I'm familiar with. Am pretty sure the perimeter border checks around towns are for Burmese as well as farang, and they probably exist around many towns and cities throughout Burma. Too bad. It's a measure of the continuing paranoia/police state of a country, if authorities feel compelled to put internal border crossings around towns.

You will have to use a airplane, in this case the local immigration is registering you upon arrival at Putao. But that´s not a big deal.

There are in general no checkpoints which you have to go through to enter/leave cities. Anyways, there are exceptions. Sometimes there are checkpoints in areas in which an rebel army is active, ie parts of Shan and Kachin state. I think there are checkpoints around Tachilek because it´s a border town. No idea about Putao...Apart from the places close to the war between the army of the central government and the KIA most cities Kachin state do not have these checkpoints.

anything flying to Mandalay from Chiang Mai? there used to be a, but I don't think there is now. thanks.

Not right now it seems, but if THAI Smile is smart and finally realizes that not everyone wants to transit in Bangkok first, I think we could eventually see a direct Chiang Mai-Mandalay flight operated by them, possibly by next year or so.

I hope so. I've also inquired, with Burmese flight/travel agents, about getting to Putao, which is their northernmost large town. Some say a farang can get a flight there, but must fly out of Yangon. However, there's a hefty fee for farang (yes, we with the pointy noses and hairy arms) to disembark at Putao. Several thousand $$'s (can't recall the exact amount). It's worse than double-pricing, and puts a black spot on Burmese leaders pretending to open Burma to the world.

I've also heard that a farang can take a train all the way up there (or boat / train combo), and could possibly get around the extortionist fee for visiting a region known as 'The Switzerland of Asia.' Personally, I'd like to climb SE Asia's highest peak, which is in that region. There have been claims that Vietnam or Malaysia has the highest peak, but Burma has it - though I can't recall its name.

Well all foreigners get overcharged more in Myanmar/Burma than any other country in Asia, if not the world. And I'm talking about government mandated dual pricing. While other countries have eliminated dual pricing on flights and hotels etc. Myanmar has merely made the gap smaller than it used to be, but it's a racist policy nonetheless and the airlines/hotels etc. practicing this policy actually lose money by subsidizing locals. My understanding is that foreigners pay the "real price", while locals are subsidized, not the other way round. Although I have never flown domestically in Myanmar, I seem to recall a 15,000 Kyat or US$15 airfare for locals on a flight from Tachilek? to Mandalay a few years ago, while foreigners were charged US$79. Given that probably only an average of 1-2 foreigners a day would have ever made it onto that flight, plus there probably would never have been many locals either, clearly this airline and others like it were losing a lot of money...and what for?

Last time I bought two flight tickets (Myanma Airways) Mandalay to Myitkyina and the ticket for me was just as expensive as the ticket for the local. The difference was just a few USD. If I remember right it was 55.000 MMK for a local and 68 USD for a foreigner. You do the math...

Same goes for most routes... There used to be a big difference in flight tickets for locals and foreigners back when the USD was worth 1100 Myanmar Kyats. Nowadays its just about 850 so the difference is not too big anymore. Same goes for Hotels...

Regarding Putao:

It´s is recently been opened for foreigners. It only used to be open for foreigners that get a guide and a permit. But even now you still need a guide/permit for leaving Putao and going out into the mountains. So basically it´s only open if you are planning to stay within the town, which is useless as the town Putao is not having any sights.

Only way to reach Putao is by plane.. The road from Myitkyina (which is reachable by train) is in a very bad condition and not open for foreigners. I have been told getting from Putao to Myitkyina by car can take up to a week.

What an odd name: Hkakabo Razi, or maybe it's the transliteration is odd.

Why would it be odd? Hkakabo Razi is Kachin language. They use the same letters as English language.

I find Yangon in general the place I like the least in Myanmar, glad that Air Asia is now having regular flights from Mandalay to Bangkok. The traffic jams in Yangon are unbearable these days. Entire downtown area is an ugly, overcrowded place that is best avoided. I can´t understand how anyone can stay there for more then a few days.

I think you've nailed it! I totally agree with what you've written. Unfortunately (for me at least), Yangon is the commercial capital and that's where I need to be. Given a choice, it's the last place I would choose to live in Myanmar.

Back on topic, people coming to work here need to seriously think about where they're going to live with regards to the traffic. Years ago I used to live on one side of the city and I commuted to the other. That used to take me 1/2 hour tops, now it would be a 2 hour commute.

Yangon desperately needs one of those sky trains or underground railway, but that has to be 20 years away...

Yeah...That´s not going to happen anytime soon. I don´t see how the government is going to deal with the increasing number of cars. It´s not like there is enough room to just build bigger roads. Maybe allowing motorbikes to enter the city? But that might make it even worse, no idea. What kind of an job do you have in Yangon?

mingalaba, on 10 May 2013 - 23:16, said:

What area do people mean when they say "Golden Valley"? Golden Valley means Shwe Taung Kyar in Myanmar language. I wasn´t aware that Golden Valley is supposed to be an entire area of Yangon instead of just a road/neighborhood.

Yes - Golden Valley is an area - its not just a road, but it is a whole neighbourhood.

Roughly speaking - it is the central parts of an area bounded by Inya Road, University Avenue, Inya Myaing Road, and Dhamazedhi Road. Thanlwin Road runs up the middle of it.

Ok. I get it now. But I am not sure why people dislike the area so much. Traffic has gotten worse but that´s also true for any other area of Yangon. Same goes for the increasing prices ...

I am not an expert about Yangon but most of the times I have to stay there, I stay at Shwe Taung Kyar Road. The traffic is still basically the same as it´s been 3 years ago and the overall character has also stayed the same. Only difference is that nowadays you often see tourists walking around coming/going to there Hotel. What area do people mean when they say "Golden Valley"? Golden Valley means Shwe Taung Kyar in Myanmar language. I wasn´t aware that Golden Valley is supposed to be an entire area of Yangon instead of just a road/neighborhood.

I find Yangon in general the place I like the least in Myanmar, glad that Air Asia is now having regular flights from Mandalay to Bangkok. The traffic jams in Yangon are unbearable these days. Entire downtown area is an ugly, overcrowded place that is best avoided. I can´t understand how anyone can stay there for more then a few days.

What? You cant think of a worse location to live in? We are talking about Shwe Taung Kyar (Golden Valley Road) here?