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bluejets

DIY & Electrical Forum Expert
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Posts posted by bluejets

  1. 15 hours ago, Thaivisa Golf said:

    Do you think that if one player has a device, then everyone in that fourball during a competition, should be entitled to use it?

     

    Not for the reason given but perhaps, as most instruments require calibration to be called accurate, one instrument would elimate that requirement as it would be common to all four.

  2. 21 hours ago, Daffy D said:

     

    That looks promising. Do you know what basket they used?

     

    Already have the hook below front seat and another on the front panel on the screw between the two "pockets"

     

    Got plenty of hanging space but some times a basket to keep bags away from the feet would be useful.

    Asked the missus but she said she doen't know any details  except she asked the Yamaha dealer in the local shop and he ordered and fitted one.

    As I say, that was over 8 years ago but I'm sure a query at your local Yamaha shop may get a similar result.

    Best approach as usual is "show a photo of what you want".

     

    https://shopee.sg/Front-Basket-Vegetable-Basket-Motorcycle-Plate-Holder-Honda-Scoopy-Yamaha-Fino-i.332201702.5962661791

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks everyone......this is really good stuff.

    Sirineou, thanks for the offer...I'll be in touch.

     

    Always get back there every year and planned on having longer stays now that I've hidden my phone number from many who just cannot accept that one wants to retire.

    Then along come that flamin' mob with their virus and stuff everything up well and good. 

     

    Still, wife will probably be around longer than I will so good thing for her to concentrate on and look forward to, Thai family as well.

     

    Cheers Jorgo.

     

  4. Yes, I've seen those and there were quite a few installed maybe 10 years back. Part of all the greenies hike.

    Never liked them from the beginning and most have since been ripped out and reverted to standard storage systems.

    One downside was if it ever failed. (Or if you lived anywhere where the temperature dropped below 5 degrees C.......Just don't work then at all)

    First one would naturally call a lecky.......he would come out, test for power and then leave after handing over a bill for a call (maybe $80 to $100)

    Then a plumber was called in to check any valves etc....... same outcome and another bill for usually a lot more as plumbers here really sting.

    So then a refrigeration mechanic would be called and he would check basic things and as the system manufacturers would not release any service details, he also would leave a bill.

    Final approach was to a manufacturer recommended service person who would usually have a two day travel bill waiting before he even looked at the system

    Usual conclusion was for a quote closely resembling the cost of the original system ( and the weren't cheap by any means)

    Basically I wouldn't touch one with a forty foot pole. ????  

  5. Another alternative would be to run a ground mounted storage hot water system and run the internal thermostat controlled element direct from 3 or 4 solar panels.

    I'd tend towards a 250 litre just for the not-so-sunny days.

    Of couse you could always incorporate a changeover switch for manual heating off the mains should you think it necessary.

    I'd tend to get a lecky to do that part though as you don't want mains supply backfeeding into your panels.

    Seems to be done in a few places over here in Aus.

    No pumps, no piping from the roof to the unit etc. etc.

    Just a run of 4 sq mm cable.

    Life span of the system would depend on your water quality.

    As an example, the water on my brother's side of town is not so good and he has a replacement every 8 to 10 years.

    If he checked the anode a bit more regularly he might squeeze a few more out of it though.

    Whereas my systems tend to last anything up to 20 years.

    I've seen one Rheemglass on tank water on a farm go for over 40 years.

  6. In my experience as a lecky, failure of these so called long life LED bulbs is, as Crossy says, insufficient cooling.

    Each of these fittings to operate on 220v ac or whatever require a driver or controller to operate.

    When broken down to find failure cause, it is 99.9% the driver from overheat.

    Most bulbs, this is an integral part whereas in other designs where the LEDs may be in a ring arrangement such as in oyster fittings, the driver is a seperate unit.

    Whatever, the result and cause is the same and replacing just the driver is not an option.

    The driver itself, if one manages to track one down, costs more than the complete fitting.

    This whole LED light thing is really a foo fee compared to the old tungsten filament bulb.

    The amount of energy cost it saves the householder is a pittance and the bulb costs 10 times more than the old ones and last, maybe 2 years.

    Then one gets a lecky in to change the fitting in many cases at another high cost.

    These LED manufacturers have been claiming a 15,000 hour lifespan since day one, but how would they have known at that stage beats me.

    Just sales hike.

  7. On 10/10/2020 at 12:52 PM, kwak250 said:

    I will check on my new battery today but i checked the volts before it was fine mind you it should be as from new it has done this the Honda dealership said all models with all the electronic devices will do this.

    i drive about 50-60k a day and lots of trips maybe 4-500 k in one day

    My old Toyota Vigo lasted 6-7 years on one battery but then it only had a Cd player ,

    Check the battery is secure.....a battery floating around will suffer from every bump in the road.

    Also check terminals to see if they are secure and in good condition.

  8. 17 hours ago, Crossy said:

    OK a quick and dirty load assessment:-

     

    Downstairs

    2x24000 BTU A/C + 1x9000 BTU => 5,700W => 26A

    Upstairs

    3x9000 BTU A/C + 1x12000 BTU = 3,900W => 18A

     

    Water heater (big tank) = 6,000W => 27A

     

    General lighting (LED) 500W => 3A

    General Power 2500W => 11A

     

    Total assuming upstairs and downstairs A/C is not running together would give a peak of 30A per phase. Easily within the capabiltiy of a 15/45 3-phase.

     

    In reality you probably won't get anywhere near that. So an electric cooktop and oven would be OK too.

     

    Crossy, 

    Don't think there was mention of how far this bloke has to run his mains or how far he is from the nearest transformer.

               

    • Like 1
  9. Don't try to fix this by tightening the bolts whatever you do.

    Many of these have spacers under the studs and pull down to a predetermined level when tight.

    If you try to tighten the bolts, you'll end up snapping them off and then you are in real trouble.

     

    Reason it leaks is the gasket goes hard and brittle with age.

    As suggested above, take it to a reputable repair shop and have new gasket fitted.

    Not a big job but clearly you have little knowledge and you could end up breaking something and costing far more than it should.

    It does not appear to be a model where the plugs go down through the cover, but if so, then these seals need replacement at the same time.

    • Like 2
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