shaemus
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Posts posted by shaemus
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10 hours ago, toast1 said:
I'm not using Whatsapp, just want to make calls using my phone company, over wifi.
There is a wifi call setting in Android
thanks
this can be a bit hit and miss as the technical points are pretty complex, but basically if your provider supports it and also support the exact model/firmware type handset that you have then you should be ok, its easy and free to try.
pull down the main menu from the top of the screen.
click on the plane mode logo, this will turn off your mobile connectivity and also wifi.
when you see the plane icon on the top of the screen where the battery % is normally located, press wifi, your phone will connect via wifi to the network.
get someto call you when in this mode and see if it works.
there is also other areas that you can try to turn on the VOwifi, but it changes dramatically from model to model and also from Android version . so i suggest if the above steps dont work to find the exact model number of your handset and the version and firmware version and google those along with Vowifi or wifi calling. or you may have a shortcut button already loaded on your settings screen that you pulled down in the steps above.
if you get stuck, then just reply with your model Number, android version and firmware version an i will find some info for you. but depending on where you bought your phone may possibly influence the carriers decision to enable you to be able to use their network via wifi. The reason for this is they want to sell the phones that they have customised the software for their own network, for example i have a One plus nord, Telstra in Australia dont support the VoWifi even though the software on the phone does
Shaemus
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try copper grease.
its probably cheaper to get a few new sockets than buy it though..
Shaemus
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On 1/12/2022 at 8:15 AM, farmerjo said:
You may be able to re registar on this link.
its seems like a dead link. As it has Demo in the title i assume its a work in progress, i got to the register screen but nothing is registering and there is latin text used in the address area as a dummy data.
I am stumped as i found this incredibly usefull as my local kubota are somewhat helpfull but lazy, and its easier for me just to walk in with a list of part numbers rather than take hours attemting to explain what i want.
thanks for the Link, lets hope it goes live soon., i did post on the FB page of siamkubota but they deleted my post.
Shaemus
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Does anyone have a link for Kpad access
it the online parts directory for Kubota machines
i cant seem to find it on the Website and the Link i have wants me to Log in which i cant remember my username password etc
TIA
Shaemus
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my MIL bought a rice mil recently.
i recon it was the cheapest in the shop as they dont sell it any more, its somewhat well made but as with alot of local made items here it lacks finesse.
here is what is have learnt from having to fix the machine.
- Its is very likely the machine will not be earthed, you should do this.
- look for the ability to adjust the motor position so the belt/pully system can be aligned and made true
- look for a machine with belt tensioners that isn't provided by just the motor position
- what spares are available now, and can you get them with the machine upon collection
- does it have a contactor type switch arrangment
- does it have a type D circuit breaker installed of have they used C which is not for motors
- can you take a bag of your own rice and mill it in the shop so they can show you how it works properly
just a few tips
shameus
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The threads used in Thailand are predominantly BSSP with some male items being BSST.
Quite acceptable to use tapered into parallel.
I use a combination of ptfe tape and thread sealant paste for my outdoor / pump thread. I was chatting to some pipe fitters at work and that is what was in the spec for their work (bhp) so I decided to copy it.
Shaemus
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2 hours ago, DonniePeverley said:What is the point of the PASS when everything is checked again at your departure airport and then again when you arrive in Thailand. Utterly pointless
Just job creation. Nothing more.
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Buy a 4 pole ip66 enclosure. They have a din rail already installed inside and a see through door that enables you to fiddle with the settings onnyour timer
Eg
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On 10/6/2021 at 2:57 PM, AhFarangJa said:
So do I, but wanted a professional opinion on whether they are safe or not. it looks like they have a separate unit within the box itself that is completely sealed.
Hi mate,
Just a few things to consider from an electrician:
The active / live & neutral is transposed between the uk style and the universal type pictured, sonyou would be switching the neutral only if you used a uk type convention.
Also the usb outlets have habbit of breaking and outputting far more voltage than you or your device are looking for plus they generally are not (smart) so QC3 or 4 ans may be very slow at charging devices. I personally would not have any in my house unless a very reliable brand
Food for thought
Shaemus
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On 10/21/2021 at 2:28 PM, mahjongguy said:
Why no soldering?
A good electrical system has low resistance, normally obtained by good installation practices, the primary method is not to put too many joints in or keep to a minimum.
Solder certainly has its uses but it use should be kept to the absolute minimum.
If you search "terminal on lazada a wide variety is shown as available.
Shaemus
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On 10/21/2021 at 11:52 PM, sometimewoodworker said:
Mostly single cable is used as it’s much easier to pull.
Its cheaper, to buy. It doesn't even come on a cable drum so not easy to use. It only because labour is cheap that is tolerated by industry.
Its termed "singles" in the UK and building wire in the uk. In both of those places it is not cheaper to install as it is not double insulated and CANNOT be installed surface direct or just floating above ceilings. Its for electrical safety of which there isn't a great deal of reguard for here in the LOS. Its seemingly accepted as the norm here as there isn't any looking who cares nor can do anything about it and it may well be perfectly to the standards here but as always in any industry the national standards are the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM methods you can use.
Shaemus
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On 10/21/2021 at 10:22 AM, tamsam6 said:
Thank you Shaemus. Solid information. I'm going to see about getting these recommendations translated by the translator I use and just hand them to the contractor. Thanks again!
It might be an idea to go to your local large diy store and spend a few hours literally looking at the materials that are available of the shelf, and whilst you are there in situ. Google the name of the equipment eg. Imc / emt metal conduit and search for images. This will give you a decent idea of how the equipment is installed. The emt metal conduit system is much cheaper to install, lighter, and obviously quicker, apposed to imc which requires higher level of skills and the requirement to have each piece of conduit threaded.
The above is just and example another would be the size and depth of the back boxes in the walls for the switches / sockets etc. The standard format here is 4" x 2" box. There are different depths of box and also 4" x 4" for a 6 gang plate or 2 rows of three switchs one ontop of another. Your house plans ideally will have the switching layout on so you can work out the box requirements from that.
Whilst we are on the subject of switches also consider this. Are you cabling for smart switches?
I personally always take the neutral to the switch, which in the UK is called 3 plating. So you have a feed in Live Neutral & earth. Through the switches (live only) and back out to the lights. It makes the requirement for deeper boxes or set back more into the brickwork but makes testing much easier as it does to second fix ( install accessories) as you are not on a ladder stripping multiple cables. Just one T&E or L, N, E.
Just a thoughts
Shaemus
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On 10/14/2021 at 3:28 PM, Yellowtail said:
My pleasure. To be clear, I have not used the silver, but I have used the green and the gold and both worked great. I used the green for ceramic kitchen counter and wall and the gold for glass mosaic trim in the bathroom and kitchen. Good results and a few years now without issue.
Thanks again,
I went to Dohome yesterday and found the silver cement by Crocodile
I was a bit startled by the Price. 300Bht.
Luckily there was a very helpful sales assistant who showed me the TPI product which is also suitable for tile on tile which was less than half the price of the forementioned brand.
More of an FYI for other readers than reply @Yellowtail. Thanks again for your help.
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On 10/17/2021 at 9:16 PM, tamsam6 said:
A few questions
Don you want UG service mains?
What does UG mean?UG = underground or burried, for the sake of clarity, in a conduit specifically for that service (low Voltage power) ideally at 600mm depth using cable that is specific for use underground,
Insist on a set of standardised and uniform colours are used for cores of cableThis is gold. Thanks
A bit more info, you can buy quite easily VAFG cable which will be potentially uniform in it core colour if you buy the same brand at the same time. there is plenty of info on cable online, vafg is a 2 core and earth cable, called T&E (twin & earth) in the UK or TPS in Australia (thermoplastic sheathing). you can buy it in various lengths 30, 50 & 100m and ranging up to 16mm though most big hardware stores will sell up to 6mm, mostly the stuff i see is 1.5mm & 2.5mm lighting and power. its not cheap though as copper has gone up alot recently and you are buying a premium type cable as the local market here don't seem to use it. if you can find stranded rather than solid core this is not only easier to install it is less likely to snap. They use solid core in the uk but generally not in Australia. it can still be run in a conduit but obviously the outer sheathing makes it a bit cumbersome. but from my experience you want to have as much protection around you cable as possible as rats and mice quite enjoy the insulation on the cable.
Do want solar?
I'm looking for a panel supplier that can connect in with our system. Any recommendations?There is a whole section on PV solar here. i used to design and install Solar systems in Australia, So in essence no i cant provide a supplier but i can provide a few tips.
Research Panels well id look on Aussie forums as there is alot of PV there in the Domestic setting and has been for 10 yrs, Dont be wooed by warranty as you are in Thailand and consumer rights / law isn;t so strong
Build your roof with solar in mind, orientation and size, do you want to generate from just the South facing roof or east west as well , if so that will need to be in your design as you will need more MPPT inputs, There is also a serious limit on Size in Thailand as anything over 10KW needs a few volumes of paperwork.
dont be put of by Stuff from china some of the inverters are pretty good
Don you want a genset with a auto changeover switch? If so allow room for the ATS
No idea what this means ????Genset = generating Set, if your power goes of do you want a back up ? An ATS is automatic transfer switch it senses the street power has gone off and starts the Genset and changes over the supply from Street to Genset. this can also be done with Hybrid solar inverters which can do the same if you have battery storage
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17 hours ago, Yellowtail said:
The silver crocodile is tile over tile.
Many thanks Sir.
Shaemus
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5 hours ago, Crossy said:
220V units are unknown here and for that matter in much of the world.
They are just starting to be recommended in the UK and cost £££££££.
https://www.discount-electrical.co.uk/section.php/111481/1/wylex-afdd-rcbos
It's also hotly debated whether thay actually have any significant effect.
Definitely expensive but the Op wants to spec his electrical system, so I posted a few questions to guide him in his research. I dont have arc fault items but spd's yes.
Shaemus
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5 hours ago, Crossy said:
If you need something in English, the closest Western requirement is AS/NZ3000.
I pretty sure the UK onsite guide is in English. A bit cheaper than the Aud300 for as3000. Plus not many pictures in AS3000.
Shaemus
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3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:
Required in data centres, irrelevant in practice in domestic installations, though zip ties to power cable isn’t a great ide
Well you dont use zip ties on data cables for a start. And the OP has asked for guide which doesn't exist. So i am mearly giving my professional opinion as an trained qualified practicing electrician.
The unit cost is higher than cat5e for sure but its the same cost to install and terminate. Only a half wit would install cat 5 or lower on a new build.
Shaemus
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I am looking for a brand / type of tile adhesive that specifically is for tile on tile applications. I could have sworn that Webber thai has one in there range but the boy at global had no idea and i couldn't find it in their range when i looked online.
Any ideas please
Shaemus
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13 hours ago, tamsam6 said:Looking at the threads, saw one about new house but I cannot find a single document that I can share with the electrical contractor that covers some of the best practices from the threads. Does anyone have such a guide?
I dont think that anyone will have taken the time to make such a guide as most on here aren't qualified electricians. There is certainly some good advice on here and a fair amount opinion not based on standards.
First you need to spec your electrical system. It is designed around its purpose and environment. So its cables, connections and cable management and the equipment it connects to.
The spec will be dictated by your build type. So if you are building a castle from cut stone you may want a certain type if system or if using a concrete shell type with brick/ block infill again a type of install will be required.
Are you wanting to use poured concrete and have conduits inside that?
Do you need a full conduit system? Or will stop start do?
The spec is normally determined by price and site requirements. Also the competancy of the installer. I.e do you want /need a metal conduit system like that @ BKK airport? And if you do can the people you are asking to do it actually do it and if so to what degree of competence.
Simply id be asking for all boxes to wall boxes plastered in. Conduits also in walls with suitable adapters from the conduit to the box.
All cabling to be run with an earth for each circuit. Use VAFG cable.
Min size for lighting 1.5mm
Min size for sockets 2.5mm.
Rcbo (quality brand) for each circuit
Ask for maximum demand calcs and voltage drop calcs
Run cat 6 where required separately from power. Use quad shield for coax.
Decides on a brand of accessories and stick with it. Ensure it has the correct requirements for you. I.e 3 way or intermediate switching,
Think about outdoor power requirements. Small light and power.
Don you want UG service mains? If so spec the correct cable for the service. Also correct depth and conduit type. HDPE conduit is available from Global
Insist connections. Are only made in the designated junction boxes and kept to a minimum and use proper connection terminals. Insist on no soldered joints
Insist on a set of standardised and uniform colours are used for cores of cable. I.e euro colours old or new. If you haven't found out already then any colour goes here for anything.
E.g. Brown black grey for phase, light blue for neutral. Green and yellow for earth. No exceptions. To do this you will have to buy the cable yourself. If doing so buy stranded rather than solid core.
Insist on a set of test results for the installation.
Think about if you want surge protection, arc fault detection devices on your distribution board. They will be expensive here.
Do want solar?
Don you want a genset with a auto changeover switch? If so allow room for the ATS
The UK produces and on site guide which is fairly pictorial but the standards are high but safe.
You could also checkout https://youtube.com/c/SparkyNinja.
Shaemus
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My wife son who hold both Thai and Australian citizenship and myself Aus/uk citizen would like to visit Phuket.
Id like to combine this trip to the beech with a trip to the Australian consulate so my wife and son can have a combined/dual person interview to get their passports, my wifes a renewal my sons first passport.
I am curious as to where to obtain facts about what is open etc and what procedures i would endure to travel and for how long.
My vaccinations. Are from Australia my wifes here in LOS. My 2 year old is obviously not vacinated.
I am looking to do a long weekend type trip.
Any shared experience of this would be most welcomed
Shaemus
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My wife son who hold both Thai and Australian citizenship and myself Aus/uk citizen would like to visit Phuket.
Id like to combine this trip to the beech with a trip to the Australian consulate so my wife and son can have a combined/dual person interview to get their passports, my wifes a renewal my sons first passport.
I am curious as to where to obtain facts about what is open etc and what procedures i would endure to travel and for how long.
My vaccinations. Are from Australia my wifes here in LOS. My 2 year old is obviously not vacinated.
I am looking to do a long weekend type trip.
Any shared experience of this would be most welcomed
Shaemus
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11 minutes ago, PMK said:
What is MEN?
2 meanings.
Multiple earthed Neutral : A UK term for multiple earth spiked on the service neutral
Mechanically earthed Neutral. An Australian term for a permanent link between Neutral and earth, required by standards at the consumers Switchboard to equalise the potential difference due to poor ground conductivity in some areas (sandy)
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Where at Suvarnabhumi to get reentry permit?
in Thai Visas, Residency, and Work Permits
Posted
As you come down the stairs after security it is in the corner of the room next to the glazed wall.
Give yourself a bit of time to walk between the 2 desks, 1 has school kids checking docs and the main one has the immigration officer who gets the glory of placing the stamp in your PP.
SHAEMUS