mipa123

I actually only "need" 1HP, but running the 3HP at 600 rpm should give a similar GPM as currently at zero noise and like 60 watts.. instead of 1500.. let's see.. I rather pay for the oversized, than repeating old issues...

IntelliFlo isn't actually available smaller than 3HP. SWG minimum flow rate of 15 GPM already considered. Also upgrading to 2", and ripping out the crappy spring based check valve and other flow blockages in the installation. I'll do everything myself, since only what you do yourself is done properly ???? 

I'll post an updated once I've installed it.. if I don't forget about it ????

After checking with about 20+ dealers in Thailand, over the last few days, I've finally found one today in BKK, who had one last Pentair IntelliFlo FSV in stock.

Emaux EPV-300-Wifi would be 47.000 vs 65.000 I've now paid for the IntelliFlo - so definitely worth it. 

Hi,

I'm curranty looking into upgrading (replacing) my Hayward Super II Pump (primary noise reason, secondary energy consumption) and based on the tons of reviews on US forums wanted to go with Pentair IntelliFlo3.

Pentair availability seems very limited in Thailand and of course way more expensive than EMAUX EPV.

For some reason I can't find ANY review at all of any EMAUX pump, and especially no variable speed series like the SPV or EPV I'm looking at. I can't even figure out what the difference between SPV and EPV is, while EPV seems higher quality - based on the higher price I would guess.

If EMAUX is in business for 20 years, why is there no review anywhere? Or are they sold under different brand name outside Thailand? 

Thanks,

Michael

Hi,

I would like to reduce the amount of vibration from my pool pump, towards my concrete structure of the house to lower the noise.

I've bought already 5cm thick rubber-cork-blocks on which I plan to place the pump. The problem I expect is, that even when the pump is sitting on rubber blocks the vibration is still the same in the 2" PVC pipes which go to the water reservoir and filter, so that I'll still have the vibration there - or maybe even more once the pump is sitting on the rubber blocks. 

So I thought about using a hump hose which are used in boats and cars to reduce vibration, but they are normally attached to steel pipes where the clamps can be tightened super strong. I'm worried that they can just pop of the PVC and flood my basement.

Any experience, suggestions or thoughts why it's probably a bad idea?

Thanks,

Michael

finally got my slim duct replaced with the cassette unit few days ago (ceiling still needs to be closed again) .. it's about 100 times more quiet .. can barely hear it

paid 29.000 for the unit incl shipping and 17.000 for replacement & installation 

and it's not an inverter, since the outside unit (which I kept) is non inverter.. but does a great job now

9 hours ago, tjo o tjim said:

Sonos or a traditional amplifier?

I've Sonos. Love the physical (and audio) quality, but the Software is a pain sometimes - not improved for 5 years.. no new features even everybody complains.

On 11/5/2019 at 5:00 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

That price will not include the outdoor unit. 

Seems Saijo Denii only sells in bundles (indoor+outdoor) so they price would be for both. Still trying to get only the indoor replaced, but if they dont sell them separately I may have to replace both or find a good trade-in deal with the contractor. Would be a waste to throw my 2 year old duct AC on the trash...

2 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

don’t forget that the real world numbers are virtually certain to be higher for all A/C units as the specs are from an anechoic room.

thanks. I just compare it to your "I can't hear the AC when the TV is on" to my "I can't hear the TV when the AC is on". So if the Saijo cassette has 33 dba on low I should be able to hear my TV too ????

27 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

So what is the second number 120dBA?

Outside. But doesnt make much sense because way to loud.. the other pdf says 60 for outside

On 9/9/2019 at 5:58 PM, khunPer said:

It has been posted before that full initial test is only performed on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

If I only need to "convert" my international drivers license to a Thai one (first time), would it be smart to go on Tuesday or Thursday then to probably have a smaller queue?

And I still have to be there between 8:30 and 9:30, right? 

1 minute ago, sometimewoodworker said:

While I don’t read Thai the chart you posted lists a minimum of 44dB? The Mitsubishi is a minimum of 38dB if so the sound level would be about ¹/₄ of the Saijo so I don’t know where your figures are coming from.

The 44 dba is the maximum noise. 

After spending about the whole day I've found that one http://www.saijo-denki.co.th/index.php?route=document/documents/Catalog_All_Round_Cassette

Sound Pressure Level Indoor Unit (Turbo/HiHi/Hi/Med/Low): 45 / 43 / 41 / 36 / 33

2 minutes ago, oldgit said:

Just looked at the Mitsubishi PLY-SP42EA (42,000BTU's/hr) cassette indoor unit and they require a minimum depth of 298mm inside the false ceiling space.

I've about 40mm and the existing one is 350mm, so the cassette with 325mm should fit here without problems.

Just need to figure out if its compatible with the outdoor unit since changing all of it would be a pain.. or even more pain than replacing the indoor unit already is.

But I figured if I have the pain and costs of re-doing the ceiling anyways, let's put in the proper device instead of building dirty hacks around the wrong AC unit.

I'm also not sure if the pricing of about 48.000 thb for the cassette on dealer websites includes the outdoor unit? Bought my existing one with the house.

dBa wise the Mitsubishi seems to have quite identical values as Saijo Denki, while Saijo is even more quiet on low.

I'm thinking about replacing my indoor unit with a cassette one, in the hope it's compatible with the outdoor unit.. need feedback from manufacturer to figure that out.

@sometimewoodworker what are the dba specs of your cassette, just to have a comparison?

Most calculation tools suggest at least 40-46.000 btu for my space, since it's west side and one side of the room is fully glass panels.

So I would probably go with the 44.000 cassette sanjio denki offers, which is 44dba - which is already 5 dba less than the slim duct one (if properly installed) ..

and I've learned 3 dba = double the noise

I've tried to reach out to the manufacturer again if it's probably possible to replace the blower motors with slower ones to create less air flow and less air pressure once the room is cold. Because that would be easy doable without ripping the ceiling open.

On High setting it takes about 5-10 minutes to make the whole room (about 9 x 7.5 x 2.4 meters) cold like a fridge, so having the blower run on lower speeds afterwards should be totally fine - but currently not possible, because even on low the wind speed at the outlet is super high... and of course noisy.

6 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

it could also be that so few (relatively) of the kind of unit you have are installed that the fitters don’t know how to set them up.

that's exactly what I think

I've also MrKen fans and rarely used the AC the last year but started using it more recently to get rid of humidity, which results in being super annoyed because of the loud noise all the time. I need to turn the AC off to understand the TV when watching Netflix... so I'm not over sensitive I guess.. it's just loud as f'ck.

Unfortunately I can't install a cessette system like you have, because lack of depth in the ceiling ????

finally found one... it's actually for lining to reduce noise.. but for a small duct like I require it should be totally fine to build the whole duct out of the board - I guess...

https://www.scgbuildingmaterials.com/th/products/SCG-Thermal-Insulation-FPO-Series-Thickness-25-mm/8852424068447

13 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

so the actual numbers are for our big cassette.

off (extremely quiet room the fridge is the loudest noticeable sound) 36dBA solid

on low 38dBA just

high 40dBA flicking to 41dBA

good idea about comparing the difference. I've

off 46dBA solid at my work desk about 4-5m away from the AC

on low 56 dBA (which is plus 10 dBA to off) at my desk

on high 62 dBA (which is plus 16 dBA to off) at my desk

compared to your 2-4 dBA difference.. that's A LOT.. and Saijo Denki sells this things as "super quiet" - but that's what they all say...

On days I've the AC running the whole day (working from home) I feel like I've spent the whole day sitting next to a highway.

3) The air inlet grille is already a door to access the AC for maintenance. Unfortunately there is no way to replace or modify the wooden elbow from that side, since it's behind the AC on the other side. But that's actually why I thought about having them installing the same panel/door as air outlet. That wouldn't create as much mess because it's just cutting the right sized hole and fitting the panel in, without the need to put new plasterboard and repaint etc.

4) The fiberglass board would be only for the outlet side, so if there come bits loose it gets blown out, not sucked into the blowers. I've seen 2.5cm insulation board here in Thailand which is not meant to be for ducts I guess, but has aluminium foil on both sides, so I would probably go with that. Galvanized sheet is supposed to be not as good for noise reduction, also more complicated to have it made and installed.

5) I definitely still need an 90 degree elbow but I would move it as far away from the AC as possible - which is unfortunately max 90cm, because there comes the concrete beam. So if I make a 120x20 cm opening that's 70cm straight.. and then the bend. Not sure if with 70cm distance of fiber glass duct and a bigger opening the AC is really less noisy and if it's worth all the hassle.

I don't sit underneath but 5-6m away where I still get 56dBA on low.. in my opinion that wooden box is like a subwoofer box that amplifies the noise evenly ????

I've just also checked for Cassette style ACs as replacement, but my ceiling is only 40cm and all that cassette things are at least 70-80cm deep...

first thanks to everybody for the response, appreciate it a lot.

22 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

So all this means that you really need a better way of measuring. I have a paid app on my iPad that gives a realistic sound reading, it gives not very different reading differences to the ones showing in the second video with similar sound reduction.

I've switched to "Decibel X" which is supposed to be the most accurate db meter app..
bedroom AC low: 45 dBA

bedroom AC high: 50 dBA

livingroom AC low: 56 dBA

livingroom AC high: 64 dBA

still not sure of course if accurate, but sounds more reasonable. I don't wanna buy an dba meter just for the test.

If I compare that to the specification @oldgit found on the Saijo Denki website it's quite more than the 49 dBA (I guess on low?), which would confirm my subjective opinion that "it's way too loud". 

@oldgit do you have a link for me? I wasn't habe to find the exact HVAC model on their webpage.

My main concern was, that I don't want to have the contractor rip the plasterboard ceiling open (and of course charge for it) if I'm not sure it will improve anything.. and so far everything I can try would require exactly that. Buf if you guys agree that this installation is not proper,  I would move forward doing that.

Based on my google research I thought about replacing the wooden box with a much bigger fiberglass duct/elbow, made of fiberglass duct board. It's easy to cut it myself without special equipment requirement, is light weight and reduces vibration and noise. So win-win .. only problem so far is that I can't find any fiberglass duct board supplier in Thailand. Is there a reason for that? Bad idea?

The current inlet grill is 170x60cm and the outlet is 120x15cm - so the site of the outlet would be fine for the amount of airflow? @oldgit

I also thought about having the identical inlet grille as outlet grille installed by the contractor, so that they cut the ceiling open and install an identical grille thru which I can install my new fiberglass duct myself. I've no experience with working with plasterboard (especial ceilings) at all, so having two grill gates I can open would it make much easier for me to try different solutions and should provide plenty of airflow for the outlet? 

My initial plan was to have the AC outlet extended by the contractor straight to the recessed living room ceiling, but unfortunately there is a huge concrete beam in the way (which you can see on the picture of the "wooden box"). There are only 4-5 cm between beam and ceiling, so not really space for air flow... and would have been probably even much louder. My contractor quoted 22.200b for that.

19 hours ago, oldgit said:

One other point, the intake ceiling grille seems OK in size but is the unit ducted to this grille or is it just drawing air from the ceiling void? The reason is that air inside the ceiling is hotter than the air from your office, so your unit would work much harder to lower the temperature. 

correct.. they pull the air from the whole ceiling and not via the inlet grill. I've already on my todo to fix that too. 

Thanks,

Michael

Hi HVAC Experts,

the contractor who build my house installed a low static slim duct hvac in the ceiling of my living room and the (wind) noise it creates, even on low level, drives me nuts.

I've no db meter, so I've used my phone plus an app.. while the classic wall mounted aircon in my bedrooms is around 18dba on low, the one in my living room is 37dba on high and 34dba on low.

The contractor told me that this is normal, so I'm trying to find either validation for that or confirmation that this is not normal - and of course a solution to it.

I've attached a few pictures. The Aircon has 44.000 Btu and 4 huge blowers, while my contractor build a 90 degree wooden elbow right in front of the outlet which includes a funnel to resizes the outlet down to a en even smaller gap than the aircon outlet. In my non-expert-opinion that's way to small and produces back pressure against the fans, which creates noise that the wooden box then amplifies. I've already removed the outlet cover for testing but that didn't change anything regarding wind noise.

I've already tried to reach out to the manufacturer "Saijo Denki", but they didn't respond so far.
 

Thanks for any Expert Opinion I can get on that.

Thanks,
Michael