Hugh Cow

On 7/13/2022 at 7:53 PM, bluejets said:

No, screw compressor.

Like many things worldwide, some say pot-ar-to, some say pot-ate-o.

 

example to chew on........ https://www.compressorsunlimited.com/blog/carrier-screw-compressors-the-basics

OK. I didnt realise you were talking about a large commercial system. As you'd be aware A/C screws start somewhere around 75 K/W nominal.

On 7/11/2022 at 8:59 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

You get a gold star ⭐️ ???? 

Thank you, but working in the refrigeration and airconditioning industry as firstly a tech and later as an Engineer for 50 years probably helped.

Bent is also used in Australia. Similar meaning as in "A bent copper" although it was also an old term for Gay. Dont know if that is universal but it was used in Melbourne.

I was so happy to hear a humble policemans wife could find a couple of mil for bail. Maybe generous friends.

11 hours ago, bluejets said:

That depends largely on the size of the systems. location of the outdoor unit with respect to the fan coil unit and whether or not you require the system to be driven via a tarrif different to your power outlets.

Some installations will have sufficient capacity on the power outlet circuits to handle to extra loading.

Most installs these days are covered by combo circuit breaker elcb by law and maximum demand in final sub circuits is vastly different from a few years ago.

That plus the majority of the RAC systems are screw compressors (quieter) inverter type given the compressor ramps up and down in speed depending on the heat load.

Starting of these is much less demand on the cabling as opposed to the old problem when they were "bang" online run-of-the-mill compressors.

I think you meant to say scroll compressors not screw compressors.

On 7/9/2022 at 1:37 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

You are not correct.
Even Thai AC installers understand that water runs downwards so do not run the exhaust water pipe horizontally and since it is usually run with the other pipes (they are pumped or use pressure) they all run downwards allowing water to flow out. Also ugly?

This is an example that proves the point that your statement is wrong.

You need approx 25mm per metre run minimum. Your pipe duct looks about 1.5 metres so you need roughly 37 mm fall, otherwise you will get build up from the general dust and detritus that accumulates on the coil. I doubt there is that much fall looking at that picture.  This will cause warm moisture laden air to condense onto the drain pipe and eventually saturate the pipe insulation and help to grow mould. Hopefully the drain line was insulated and hard pvc was used rather than flexible drain hose which will form "waves" and trap water.

I certainly would not have that duct on my inside wall. To me it looks ugly but I accept you see aesthetics differently to me.

I assume when you say(they are pumped or use pressure) you are refering to the liquid and suction refrigerant lines. The smaller (liquid line) will be around 2,500 kpa and the larger (suction line) 800 to 900 kpa when operating, assuming R410a refrigerant.

On 7/6/2022 at 6:55 PM, unheard said:

Could you please elaborate on what you mean by this statement?

The drain generall follows the pipes through the wall to outside and is hidden in the pipe duct and can drain into the garden or into a container. If the inside unit is attached to an inner wall with no direct access to outside the drain must then be ran along an inner wall to an outer wall to outside this is not only ugly but is prone to clogging due to the horizontal run of the pipe. The alternatives is to install a pump that either pumps the condensate through the ceiling and inside the roof space to outside or through the roof. This means you have the potential of rain leaks through the penetrations possible drain pipe leaks onto the ceiling combined with a pump that may introduce extra noise and will require frequent cleaning of the indoor coil, drain pan and pump to prevent blockage and overflow.

Is there any update on the proposed line between wang wian yai and mahachai?

20 hours ago, dddave said:

One odd thing to be aware of is you will probably see displays of and  recommendations for Mitsubishi AC units.  There are actually two Mitsubishi entities selling AC units: "Mitsubishi Electric" which is more consumer grade and "Mitsubishi Heavy Industries" which is more commercial grade, however, they do overlap.  Consumer grade usually means more features, commercial grade tend to be beefier.  I'm not saying one is better than the other but something to be aware of.

Good point. The reason I specified Mitsubishi Electric.

15 hours ago, grain said:

Very good advice here, thanks Hugh Cow. I was actually thinking about something like a multi split, a double, there's a brick wall separating the bedroom and loungeroom so a double split - one for bedroom and one for lounge would be excellent....with the compressor out on the back balcony (all the units with AC have the compressors on their back balconies, that's how we can tell who has AC...just look up at all the back balconies.)  

 

All this info I'm getting here is valuable. BTW: everybody who is giving me info, I'm copying your posts and saving all your info in a text file for easy access later.

Just remember the 2 pipes from each indoor cooling unit must run back to the common outdoor unit when using a multi head split system. If you have one cooling  unit on each side of the house it can be a problem with the pipe run and can look ugly on the outside and it may be better to run two separate systems.

A couple of tips. Most use a plastic duct cover for the pipes on the outside wall. The cheaper ones deteriorate from UV after a couple of years and need replacement. Make sure they use one with high UV resistence. A little more money now will save a lot later. Make sure the insulated pipe is sealed with silicone at the outside end, or over time moist air ingress along the pipe as it travels along the pipe between the pipe and insulation due to there being a cooler lower pressure inside, will gradually saturate the pipe and cause dripping and deterioration of the insulation over time.

I am confused about the TM30. I believe the person whose residence you stay at must fill this out. What happens when you are traveling frequently. I understand hotels do it but what happens with private residences and how does this effect the traveller? Does the traveller need to submit anything?

A rough guide to capacity is 400 watts per square metre of floor area. Split airconditioners will only do one room. The amount of filtering into a second room is negligible at best. As you have a long electrical run a multi head split might be better. This has one outdoor unit serving 2 or more indoor cooling units so only one power line required.

Mitsubishi electric seem to have the best wrap from installers regarding reliability and parts availability.

Panasonic are good and have good parts availability in Thailand but I dont know in Australia. Brand does matter! Some techs call LG aircon the anti christ of airconditioners well others come and go and have little to no parts network. 

N.B. I would reccomend you have a qualified cert 3 tech instal the aircon. Australia changed licensing and many installers are electricians or plumbers who are not allowed to service the unit if it breaks down. Their knowledge is very limited and many do poor installations that can  cause expensive problems later. Remember the indoor cooling units need to be installed on the inside of an exterior wall for drainage purposes Otherwise they will need a drain pump to pump water to the outside. Many of these drain pumps block easily and require quarterly maintenance which is an added expense.

FYI. I have a small interest in a aircon company in Thailand and the company is an authorised panasonic and mitsubishi dealer. I have been involved in the refrigeration / aircon industry for over 40 years in Australia.

Sorry if this is in the wrong place mods but I'm not a good navigator.

I know this is a forlorn hope but can I take my beloved motorcycle to Thailand? It is a 2003 model 1100cc. I have heard it is really difficult. Is there another way? Say to Malaysia or Cambodia and then take it over the border? I am willing to bear a fair amount of cost to do it as I've had it a long time and I hate to have to part with it.

16 minutes ago, DrJack54 said:

Old thread However a starting point.

Thanks Dr Jack for the reference, but the thread is over 6 years old now. I was hoping for something more current as I know cost have skyrocketed on sea freight.

 

 

I'm not sure if this is the right place but does anyone know or have had experience with sea freight agents for shipping household effects from Australia to Thailand as a part container load and any import restrictions/charges etc?

I remember reading years ago It was possible to fatally overdose. Apparently taking 450 grams (one pound) of hasish over a 24 hour period can be fatal. Good luck with that.

Yes the drivers are going to cause problems on an already horrendous road death count, the reason i rarely drive in Thailand. Thankfully I do love travelling by train, especially outside of Bangkok.

I have been told you can arrive at Manila on a 30 day VOA and add 29 days before you leave manila airport and then before the 59 days expire apply at immigration for a 6 months stay. Has anyone tried this or no someone who has?

Lady cow and princess cow will be arriving in Australia shortly. They need a PCR test within 72 hours of traveling. I am told the price for the PCR test and certificate from a private hospital is 4,000 baht each. Does anyone know if that is standard price around Bangkok private hospitals or is it just because they require a certificate with the test for overseas travel? Any help would be appreciated.

Having a daughter in secondary school in Australia and wishing to relocate to Thailand It seems I will need to delay until my daughter has finished high school. After looking at the fees including some pretty outrageous "admittance" fees, my daughter will be staying at her current school considered one of the best in Queensland. I can send my daughter to one of the top private girls schools in Brisbane with a teacher student ratio of 1:11 for around the same price as a mid tier international school in Bangkok. At least here I am aware of the teachers minimal requirements and performance indicators that they must obtain to teach at her school. I doubt the facilities are any better in those International schools, let alone the teacher standards and qualifications required compared to the GGS in Brisbane.

On 1/18/2022 at 11:54 PM, PoodThaiMaiDai said:

As an American I am offended.  555

 

I don't even understand 20% of the English and Australians.

 

Maybe that is why we each have our own dictionary..

Oh contraire. The last thing you need to learn English from is an Englishman. There are so many different accents and some are almost unintelligible. Even the English themselves cant understand some of their own countrymen. Geordies and some other Northern accents come to mind just for starters. Thank God HRH can speak the Queen's english.

Americans butcher the language. They substitute "OO" for "U" as in toon for tune  and noos for news etc. There are many more Baysil for basil OrEgano for oregAno. Mos COW for mosco Tomayto for tomato. And thats even before you get through the list of unintelligible acents Y'all.

Australians by contrast have little change in accent over a huge continent and what there is is subtle. We use HM's english for spelling. Of course their are bogons that couldn't string one intelligible sentence together but they exist in All three countries. Then of course one mustn't forget the Kiwis that Aussies love to take the <deleted> out of.  I remember the first Kiwi I met was trying to sell me a car. Different to today where you cant go out of your front door in Oz without tripping over a Kiwi, Even the cane toads are complaining there being outbred.

He was extolling the virtues of a lumatud slup duff on the car he was flogging. Had to ask him where it was fitted to get an idea what TF he was talking about. I finally worked it out when he said it was futed to the bick ixel.

If they're going to migrate to Australia in numbers greater than cane toads you'd think they'd have the decency to learn Australian. In fact the Anglo world would be so much better if all were required to speak Australian. Comparing Australian with other anglo languages is like comparing a symphony orchestra with banging two sticks together. Thank you for your attention. I'll leave you to argue amongst yourselves.

I forgot to mention I have spent 45 years in the refrigeration and airconditioning trade in service installation and design, not that that should influence you. Maybe you should rephrase your original post to, "I am going to use a spray to attempt a leak repair. Can someone please agree with my plan."

On 1/18/2022 at 3:08 PM, bangkokstick said:

 

Thank you, it's correct, but you have no experience with spray to fix leaks ?

 

No I have not seen or used it and dont know of anyone that has. I have never seen it in Australia. You seemed determined to use it so good luck.

On 1/16/2022 at 3:24 PM, bangkokstick said:

Thank you guys, I had no idea that a pro could fix it ????

 

Thanks again but it's not a drain problem, and my question is specific, I do not ask anything else:

 

Have you ever used a "fix leak spray" for cars ?

 

It seems to work for some people, I guess depending on the leak, but this car is only used to move constructions material and other dirty thing, so the reason why I am thinking of trying a spray.

 

And anyway, if you had to pay for a real repair, what is the risk to use a 200 thb fix leak bottle before paying a pro to fix ? Some misinformation bull$hiter spread the word that it could damage your aircon more what a stupid statement, and I guess that the only reason is to push people to pay for an expensive repair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Car aircon system ( most run on R134a refrigerant) has a low side and high side. The low side pressures vary between about 50 KPA (7PSIG) operating to about 800 KPA (118PSIG) when switched off depending on ambient. The high side when operating can reach pressures of 1200KPA+ (175 PSIG). Some sprays will work on low pressure systems like Gas (around 14 KPA or 2PSIG) but not at vastly higher pressures as in air con systems. Also an amount of oil from the compressor sump circulates with the refrigerant making the sealing of holes difficult without degassing and removing oil. The only chemical stop leak that may work is added to the system internally where it circulates and is forced out of any small pinholes where it hardens on contact with the atmosphere thereby sealing the leak. You may have many pit holes in a flexible line or elsewhere. The cost of using one of the stop leaks will run out at about 2000 baht and needs to be done by a professional so there is labor on top. Personally I would get it done right the first time. The leak found and repaired properly. The longer you delay the more it will eventually cost. If the system runs out completely then the compressor oil will need changing as it is a POE oil and is hygroscopic and will attract moisture from any air that has got into the system after the refrigerant (gas) leaks out. It then turns acidic and can attact the pipes and compressor shaft seal and therefore must be replaced and the oil is expensive plus the extra labour required.