Tioga246

3 hours ago, Kinnock said:

I saw this in Facebook Group for Honda S90, CL90 - not sure its any use ....

 

Thanks Kinock, but no that's just the Castrol logo... I found a guy who got the whole kit and he wants 1500baht.... The normal NSR150 sticker kits go for 350-400 baht... So just need to think about it... But I really love this Castrol look... And its a simple paint job.... White... 

7 minutes ago, johng said:

They might be able to make you a (special) Castrol set ?

http://www.stickermocyc.com/category/33/สติ๊กเกอร์-honda/nsr

 

or

https://shopee.co.th/สติ๊กเกอร์-NSR-มี9ลาย-i.115172435.1886459676

Thanks Johng

1 hour ago, papa al said:

..where can get orange / black striped deltoids.?

Papa you need to read my question... I asked for Castrol decals... This a screen shot from the net... 

Hey guys, anyone know where I can get these Castrol sticker kit from.... 

10 hours ago, In the jungle said:

The alternator is obviously working.

 

I would try covering any bare wires with a smear of epoxy from Homepro or wherever.  I haven't tried this before but I think it would work in your case.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Jungle for pointing that out.... I looked this morning and there a few wires exposed and yes I got some epoxy here at home.... 

Yip the pics does look like there some wires exposed.... I will check in the morning, had no luck finding I new water pump gear in town... Managed to find I secondhand one on Facebook for 280baht.... Should get it by Wednesday... Now if the wires were exposed what could I do there.... 

7 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

This is when forums are actually great.

A wealth of useful information and knowledge.

Good info there passed on by previous experience.

Well done JG.

Agreed Guzzi... And thanks Johng...

My plastic gear just broke in half haha... It was cracked so no loss there... Now the headache of getting it off... Don't worry I will manage that... Spring located in the rite hole... Now tomorrow I go Krabi town and get the gear shaft... 

Now on the other side of engine we have the coils and there like a pick up sensor, it's either worn or been filed down or something.... 

23 hours ago, johng said:

Assemble all the bits first  

don't forget the 2 washers one or other likely gets stuck to the crankcase or cover when you disassemble

 

the ratchet will only go on the spline in one position, make sure the plastic guide slots over the spring and sits "nicely".

 

Once the spline is inserted into the crankcase hole  fit the retainer bracket...but first inspect it carefully to make sure it isn't cracked like mine was..if its damaged then it will let the spring rotate too far and break it (hard to find new ones)

 

One on the left is bad  the right hand is a good one

 

So with the retainer bracket fitted  rotate the kick starter spline clockwise till the ratchet hits the retainer bracket

the spring will be pointing towards the clutch..but it needs to be rotated  further clockwise and  inserted into the hole in the crankcase just above one of the "alignment bushes"   its a bit fiddly as you have to hold the spline and plastic guide in place with one hand and with some long nose pliers "persuade" the spring into the hole.

 

When fitting the clutch side cover  you have to  be careful to align  the water pump gears, when they align the cover goes on very easily..so don't be tempted to try forcing the cover closed.. with the cover as far on as it will go slowly rotate the water pump impeller buy hand and at the same time gently  "persuade" the cover further, when the gears line up it will "magically"  pop into place...the oil pump gear seems to just find its own way ..fit the oil pump first if you took it off, I don't think it could be assembled after the cover is back on anyway.

Also make sure you don't forget or loose any of the clutch actuating bits, the metal "top hat"  bit likes to fall out if you turn the cover over.

 

In this photo the larger plastic cog is the water pump gear   smaller one is for the oil pump  "top hat' thingy is in the centre.

 

PS   inspect the water pump gear for any signs of cracking..or this might happen.

 

Can you replace just the plastic gear or is it a complete unit.... 

What was I thinking with the spring haha... 

On 9/23/2019 at 10:08 AM, In the jungle said:

Because you don't know the standard volume of fluid per 31mm dia. leg I would throw in a guesstimated volume (200ml or whatever), measure the fork oil level for that and then go up or down on level based on how the forks perform.

 

On my back of an envelope calculation I reckon 240ml per leg would be nearer the mark as a start point.

 

One thing I am dead sure about is that 100ml per leg is wrong.  I doubt that volume would even keep the damper rod orifices continuously covered. 

 

 

Hey guys, any tips and images to share on how to reload the kick-start spring and where to locate it... 

8 hours ago, In the jungle said:

Because you don't know the standard volume of fluid per 31mm dia. leg I would throw in a guesstimated volume (200ml or whatever), measure the fork oil level for that and then go up or down on level based on how the forks perform.

 

On my back of an envelope calculation I reckon 240ml per leg would be nearer the mark as a start point.

 

One thing I am dead sure about is that 100ml per leg is wrong.  I doubt that volume would even keep the damper rod orifices continuously covered. 

 

 

Totally agree with you.... 100ml not enough.... And 200ml sounds good to me... I want to drop the forks anyway... And long as the dust seal don't get damage I'm happy... 

27 minutes ago, johng said:

Strangely I was watching  an episode of "Elementary" last night and  it referred to  a fable about snakes

 

Anyway  the NSR forks are 31mm diameter    RR  and RRp  versions

 

RR

 

RRp

 

 

Thanks for that story Johng

So maybe 200ml each fork will do... 

37 minutes ago, johng said:

 

 

Blimey ! I thought I was unlucky ,best wishes to you .

I'll measure my fork diameters tomorrow and post here.

 

Thanks Johng

Can you believe, I saved a viper in the morning from cats.... Or maybe I saved the cats.... Anyway I never killed this thing... Removed it safely and still got bitten by its sister later on.... 

2 hours ago, In the jungle said:

On my SP I use 322ml per fork leg as per the SP manual.  That is a fork oil level of about 125mm measured with the fork springs removed and forks fully compressed.

 

The SP manual does not tell you the fork oil spec which is annoying.  I am using Motul 10W fork oil which you can get from Lazada.  I settled on 10W by trial and error.

 

My local bike shop uses hydraulic fluid intended for backhoes and the like of unknown weight as his one size fits all fork oil.  Not sure about the wisdom of that.  

 

SP fork tubes are 35mm od.  I think earlier model NSRs use smaller diameter fork tubes which would probably require a different/lesser volume of fluid but I cannot verify what I am saying about fork tube diameter as I haven't seen another NSR around here.  

Thanks man... Can't measure fork at the moment... I was at the back working on my bike and was bitten by a Malay pit viper... So in hospital and waiting on my second blood test.... 

On 9/5/2019 at 9:46 AM, Tioga246 said:

Try find another cylinder and see if the coolant stays.... I messed around for ages trying to get my bike right.... Facebook pages have them for sale... 800baht I think I got mine for, but also had it ported... 

Hey guys... Nsr manual say each fork takes about 300ml of oil each.... Now why does the Thai mechanic say 100ml is good... I would prefer my forks to be harder so I can drop them more.... If they to hard, that could be dangerous on the road I can understand that, but the manual say 300ml.... I actually think its 330ml.... Can anyone help with this please.... 

13 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

You need to find a good local shop who will go through the whole bike. Every market town and city has a shop that is competent and knowledgable with these older 2 strokes.

Completely rebuild the motor, gearbox and clutch. Put a brand new carb on. Rewire the whole bike or fit a new harness c/w rewound stator and new coil and cdi.

Parts and labour depending on .... i'd say 4-6k.

Be like a new bike and enjoyable again.

Good luck!

Try find another cylinder and see if the coolant stays.... I messed around for ages trying to get my bike right.... Facebook pages have them for sale... 800baht I think I got mine for, but also had it ported... 

7 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

Sorry this is an old post but...

 

I believe the 150 Has a Nikasil plated cylinder so by boring one will have removed the Nikasil. It sounds like it works without it but....

I just bought a oversized cylinder and had it ported..... 

1 hour ago, johng said:

Like I said  I didn't think/believe it was the battery, I had run it for a couple of years without a battery but had recently put one on ( not new)..so I watched very closely  while the mechanic  unscrewed the spark plug connected the HT lead again and checked for spark  there was none...changed spark plug for brand new one  still no spark

then he hooked up a new battery  and there was spark...spark plug back in it fired up straight away.

He said there was an internal short in the old battery....now I'm a believer.

 

What about the CDI unit ?

 

One time  the float valve stuck open and flooded  the crankcase ( I didn't know that had happen )

and the dam thing would start  so in desperation took the carb off to see if the jets where  blocked up again

for some reason I had the idea to kick over the bike while  the carb was still completely removed...it sprang to life and revved as fast as it could go..scared the life out of me

555 that's when you reach for the cutoff switch fast as you can.... 

13 minutes ago, thaiguzzi said:

Fine.

No ploblem.

Yes. correctomondo.

No, disagree.

What had happened was there was something on the ignition side, cable/earth/whatever/HT/LT that was stopping that plug firing.

With every wire removed from a 2 stroke except LT coil wires, that motor WILL run if everything is in order.

 

Thanks Thaiguzzi

I got 1 different clutch plate... Anyone know if it OK to use it like this.... 

3 hours ago, johng said:

SP version parts manual shows

 

 

 

 

 

SP version service manual says.

Notice they say 5 clutch discs but the picture has 6 !!   ??????

Honda_NSR150SP service manual.pdf 22.56 MB · 1 download

 

On  a related note about no spark at the spark plug...recently  my NSR refused to start about (15 km from home ) had to get a mechanic to come and push me to his shop with his foot from another bike..he said it was the battery but I didn't believe him as the bike works without a battery...turns out the battery had an internal short circuit and that stopped the plug from sparking...also after much confusion and changing out of parts from a recently bought "spare bike"  another mystery was solved..the regulator/rectifier depends on a good battery to be connected otherwise its output voltage is very low and variable and you have very dim lights ...with a good battery installed the rectifier outputs about 13.8 volts as it should do...this had me stumped for a long while

Had the same issue, well similar... These bikes can keep you busy hey haha... 

On 1/6/2018 at 8:40 PM, Tioga246 said:

Hey guys.... Still have not got round to doing the spark plug check.... But I was at the machanic yesterday and today.... Once again playing around with parts.... Apparently I have a Npro carb on.... Changed the muffler again.... Tried a different RC cdi and the cdi for spark plug.... And now he saying my exhaust is clogged up... Goose neck part... Now I can believe that but need to ask why I always find water on top of my needle and slide when there has been no rain.... So that's water mixing in there.... So today I made a Coke bottle fuel tank with new fuel and hooked  it up.... Disconnected my RC valve cables and left it in the middle.... I had this bike screaming up and down the road and then my bottle started pissing fuel out.... And looked like it leaked into my casino where my pickup coil is....bike running like <deleted>. My RC valve not working when connected up again and there water on top on my needle and slide..... No rain today.... I was really hoping it was my fuel tank contaminating my fuel with water mixture.... 

 

Hey guys where can I get a image of clutch plate assembly..... And it looks like a have one different friction plate to the rest.... Is that possible? 

Looking for engine casing on the flywheel side or complete engine.... 

Thank you...... 

Hey guys.... Still have not got round to doing the spark plug check.... But I was at the machanic yesterday and today.... Once again playing around with parts.... Apparently I have a Npro carb on.... Changed the muffler again.... Tried a different RC cdi and the cdi for spark plug.... And now he saying my exhaust is clogged up... Goose neck part... Now I can believe that but need to ask why I always find water on top of my needle and slide when there has been no rain.... So that's water mixing in there.... So today I made a Coke bottle fuel tank with new fuel and hooked  it up.... Disconnected my RC valve cables and left it in the middle.... I had this bike screaming up and down the road and then my bottle started pissing fuel out.... And looked like it leaked into my casino where my pickup coil is....bike running like shit. My RC valve not working when connected up again and there water on top on my needle and slide..... No rain today.... I was really hoping it was my fuel tank contaminating my fuel with water mixture.... 

On 03/01/2018 at 9:45 AM, VocalNeal said:

...and there isn't a new NSR 150 of any description.  Then again if one hasn't ridden a decent 2-stroke bike, one would not understand!