bcross2001

Would he find this out before he paid the money or after ?? I just dont understand him anymore but dont want him or my children to lose out ..I dont know where he is getting legal advice from ..Just said top lawyers in the south of thailand ..Just wish i had known about this forum before he went over with all that money !!! I know he also said to me that he would own the land and could then build a house on it and if the island got too busy and they started building shops there etc he could move somewhere else and get really good money back on his property as would be a really popular place and land is getting really expensive ..but i have read over past couple of days there has been changes made/ getting made to land bought by foreign people

Hi - First if the money is your as well - take the advise and get a lawyer to protect your interests - next find out if the company he is dealing with for the real estate is KP Reality - my wife and I came to Koh Phangan and dealt with this company - this resulted in having to hire a lawyer and losing overall about 6 thousand USD - we have also met several other couples who have dealt with KP Reality and lost money - there are so many unreputable real estate companies on Koh Phangan who's only interest is in bilking their customers.

As for the land - the land office in Koh Phangan is totally corrupt - with only three weeks on the island your husband is putting everything he has on the line and believe me risking it all.

I hope this works out for you and your kids.

I have setup a new broadband speed test here:

http://speedtest.thaivisa.com/

The test measures download and upload speed to our new server located in Singapore, which is located direct on the international backbone.

OK - My ISP is J-Net ADSL transfer rates below - what can be done about this? Or is it the old Your in Thailand?

First Result:

Download Speed: 213 kbps (26.6 KB/sec transfer rate)

Upload Speed: 54 kbps (6.8 KB/sec transfer rate)

Second Result:

Download Speed: 215 kbps (26.9 KB/sec transfer rate)

Upload Speed: 65 kbps (8.1 KB/sec transfer rate)

can you just imagine the the delays - checking every foreigner as they arrive- maybe a good case of visa's for everyone

No matter how long the delays are, I doubt it will be as bad as Heathrow last week. Incidentally, it is not uncommon for foreigners to clear immigration on the first port of entry. It has been this way for the US as long as I can remember.

Except for baggage. I'm intrigued year after year that my bags are allowed to go straight through to the second airport, after arriving at an entry point in US, where they are picked up as routine domestically-travelled bags without inspection by Customs or the added scrutiny of an international flight arrival.

John - which entry port in the U S are you arriving at?

Barry

Wow, that must look superb and probably increase the value of the beach shack by at least 300b.

I am getting prices in Bkk currently for this and prices are ranging from 1500b to 4000b per sqm.

Hey Nawtilus - I'm going to Bangkok the day after tomorrow - Siam Square. Anystores I might view within this area - or out to the airport.

Barry

Hi All

I was just told the other day that a new Thai regulation ..........

Told by whom??

It sounds sensible, but then This is Thailand..................

This came from the official in sub district land office in Chaiya. I have been dealing with this guy and he told us that we had to build our home back from the beach (marine marker) 75 meters because of a new Thai Law after the Tsunami - If we move back 75 meters I'm on my neighbors property??

I did have a fellow from Samui in the real estate business tell me there was no such law and he spelled out the follow:

Building regulations are formed/monitored in Thailand by the Tessabaan (municipal government) and are therefore regional. The rules which you speak of may be in place in Phuket, for example but certainly not in Samui. The regulations here are that you cannot build at all within 10M of the high tide waterline, can build no more than a 75sqm structure (but can build multiple structures)

within 50M of the high tide waterline and after 50M the regular municipal building rules apply : Peaked roof only, no more than 12M total building height above plot height, up to 2000sqm structure.

We really need some help here as this official has told us he can arrange for us to put our home on our land for 450,000 Baht under the table - ANY SUGGESTS OUT THERE??

Barry

Hi All

I was just told the other day that a new Thai regulation came into effect after the Tsunami.

The new law as it was related to me - states that - when building a home on the water front (beach front) the home must be localted 75 meters back from the Marine beach land mark (basically the high water mark).

Has anyone heard anything about this - or would you know where I can go to authenticate this regulation.

As purposed this would dry up a very large portion of beach front property from being sold.

Barry

My partner owns some land in southern Thailand– it has rubber trees (most are too big and old now) and it’s near more and more houses. It sits low on a hill. The land office says it will make upgrades soon from a Bor tor ha to Nor sor sam. It’s well marked with cement markers and its been surveyed by the Or bor tor.

Can this be true, Are Bor Tor Ha deeds being upgraded in the south?

So the question is: Has anybody (or their spouse) on the forum successfully upgraded a Bor tor ha or s or. Kor. Nung land title? If so, could you share your experience?

Thanks!

Would very much like to know what you find out about this as we own a similiar piece of land.

Also has anyone knowledge of a recent new Thai law that was put in place as a result of the Tsunami stating that all homes must now be 75 meters from the government water line???

And does this apply to the Gulf of Siam - not much chance of a Tsunami in the Gulf??

Barry

Hello Everyone:

Yesterday the land office transfer my house/land in my company's name.

I will like to say that I had no problems with the new law, the land office went over my company documents and didn't even ask one question. Now, I must say all my Thai shareholders listed in my company are people who I personally know. Aslo I used the advice from Sunbelt Asia, I want to thank Greg at sunbelt in giving me the correct advice and also setting up my company and the lawyer he asigned me with. Her name is Ms. Nui . For the small fee they charge to have her do the transfer is well worth the money. Her english and communications skills are excellent, I didn't even have to show up at the land office. She was in and out in less then 2 hours. And thats because of the wait, she was with the officer not more then 10 minutes.

The big fuss with the new law is about companies being set up for real estate development, if this is not your case then you will not have any problems, but of course the company has to be active. Not a paper (front) company.

In closing, if you have any question contact Greg at Sunbelt he is well informed.

Good luck.

Can you provide me with the contact information for Sunbelt - we would like to contact them about our land purchase

Barry

We have purchased our land and were seeking a contractor for the construction. We were offered the services of two seperate contractors. The first was 4.5 million over the projected cost - the second was 2.7 million over the projected cost. Needless to say we did not accept these bids.

We now find that the person who was offering these contractors to us just happens to be the very same person who issues the building permits in this area.

We have since located another contractor who's bid is within out projected costs. We have now been informed by the local official who issues the building permits that we will not be issued a building permit until we come into his office and reach some understanding.

This is of course is leading us back to the original point of this official not being able to reap the additional building cost and putting it in his pocket - as opposed to asking for a bribe - the inflated construction cost would be returned to this official vis the contractor.

As I've just about had it up to you know where with this mental minded midget mentality - I would like to know if anyone knows where within the Thai government the office for corruption is located. As I intend to take this case directly to the appropriate government officials. And am strongly considering taking this to one of the Bangkok news papers as well.

Can anyone tell me where to go to register a complaint with the proper government authorities.

Barry

I am looking for the adapter for the "Schuko" plug. I have been to every electrical shop where I live, and no one has them. I even printed a picture of the adapter from Crossy's site and took it with me to show them. No joy. I rewired my house as it was an accident waiting to happen. There were no earthed/grounded circuits. My microwave has one of the "Schuko" plugs. I hate these things . I am about ready to cut it off and put on a 3 prong plug. But sometimes, people bring over rice cookers and other things that have these plugs on them, and I want the adapters for these situations too. Why the H_ll does Thailand use these?

I live in Isaan, right now, I am out of Thailand. When I return I will be flying into Bangkok (of coarse). I am willing to travel ANYWHERE in Thailand to get the adapters. If anyone knows of a place to get these, Please let me know. I am probably not the only one who is having trouble locating them.

Thanks, Be Safe!

Bleedin typical isn't it? Find something useful / nice, everywhere's out of stock, happened with smoked salmon in Tesco too

My adapter came from Homepro. The alternative is (Homepro again) there are now proper Schuko sockets that will fit a standard Thai wallbox, really a better solution (piccy on the website).

I'll check if I can still get both and the price, can soon drop a couple in the post if you fail locally

That's farm salmon - you know what your eating?

New Zealander stabbed to death

BANGKOK: -- A New Zealand man was stabbed to death at own Bangkok apartment late Saturday night, police said.

Pol Captain Thanaphat Sookmee of Bang Khen police station said Leonard Timothy Healey, 32, who taught English at two schools in Bang Khen district, was attacked in front of his room on the tenth floor of PA Tower Apartment in the district at about midnight.

Thanaphat said Healy was attacked allegedly by Winai Saisudjai, 29, a friend of Healey's girlfriend, Jitladda Dejyosdee, 19.

The three have been drinking together inside Healey's room waiting to see the Brazil-France World Cup match.

Jitladda told police that Healey became angry that Winai asked to sleep with her so Healey told Winai to leave the room.

Winai, who appeared drunk, grabbed Jitladda and dragged her outside the room, she said.

Healey came into help her and the two men fought and Winai stabbed him several times.

Jitladda said Winai fled the scene and she carried Healey into his room to make a phone call for help from security offices of the building to help him to the hospital but he succumbed to the wounds.

--The Nation 2006-07-02

\

I first visted Thailand in 1962 - it was then a very different country then it is now.

My sincere condolences to the family.

It is time for the Embassy's of European and other western countries to place travelers notice (Warnings) on their web sites informing the general public what they can truly expect to find when traveling to Thailand - this I'm sure would hit home with the locals as it would have the impact of curbing travel to Thailand - and I'm sure the government here does not want the world to know of these almost daily attacks on westerners. The result to the tourist industry would be felt in lost dollars something the government cannot afford.

Take a good look on the lease contract, what has been stated before you engaged a lawyer to take legal action against the property owner. Good Luck.

There is an excellent lawyer in bangkok Khun Bordin Kongjun - he represented us and was able to recover 450,000 from K P Reality - these folks had 5,000,000 of our funds (which they spent). Khun Bordin was able to recover our 5Mil plus the additional 450,000 baht.

Mod: have deleted phone number posted here for privacy reasons. Please PM this poster for full details.

Barry Cross

I would like to offer the following information to anyone who may require of legal assistance for purchasing land or housing. We engaged a Mr. Bordin Kongjun awhile back to assist us after a rather unpleasant situation with K. P. Reality on the Island of Koh Phangan. Not only was Mr. Kongjun able to resolve this situation amicable manner - he was also able to obtain a 450,000 Baht remittance from this company as damages.

We have since employed Mr. Kongjun to process title search and purchase our present land. This was done with a minimum of expense and I might add in a very professional manner – one totally acceptable to western standards.

Please contact Mr. Bordin Kongjun at 013153437 – his English is good – however I would recommend an interpreter for all negotiations.

Barry Cross

A tank of gas costs about 275 baht here. We only heat water for showering. It lasts my wife and I for two months even in the cold season and maybe 3 months otherwise....don't know about the cost of electricity but one kilowatt hour is about 860 kiloCalories and one kiloCalorie will heat one litre of water 1 degree C. Maybe you can estimate from that..or a water heater running at 3000 watts for 20 minutes will consume one kilowatt hour...I think a kilowatt hour costs about 5 baht more or less....it varies depending on where you live.

At any rate, in our budget the cost of natural gas for showering is minor. I was surprised when I discovered that it takes more gas to cook our food than to shower.

By the way, the National heater that we bought is really only suitable as a shower and wouldn't be practical for a basin or kitchen sink.

Chownah

Thanks Chownah for the information - that deing said and done what size's of gas water heaters are available (does anyone know) do they have say 100 plus liter gas water heaters like they do in China?

And what would the cost of these be like - it is apparent that gas is cheaper then electricity - but are there family size tanks available.

Reggards

Barry

I recommend gas over electric. In many/most places you will get voltage drop whenever the shower is used if you go electric and obviously this is not a problem with gas. Also I've never seen an electric unit that got water as hot as my gas unit and living here in the north that's important since it gets really chilly here in the cold season and many electric heaters really don't do the job here in the cold season. I've got a National gas heater and it works fine....Ecolux makes some also and I've heard one good comment about them and no bad ones.

Hello - what is difference in cost to heat say 100 liter of water with electric as opposed to gas??

Barry

Hi again Barry.

I will try to find out what cable sizes should be used in your situation. It'll take me a little while so please be patient as I do not have ready access to the standards required.

As you are living near the sea, I would suggest using an underground service, if this allowable by your energy authority. Further, I would therefore use copper wire. Again, I will give you the results of the calculation asap. If you wish to use an overhead service, Aluminium cables will be the desired thing. Again, this will take time to calculate sizes etc. I advise against running your service cables overhead for 500 metres & then putting them underground for the last 150 metres. Is there a reason why this should be done?

Further, a 100 amp supply is a good thing, particularly if you plan on living in the same residence for a long time. Although, an 80 amp supply will be more than sufficient for future growth (particularly for a farang). I think you may like to consider an 80 amp supply in instead of a 100 amp supply...it can save you money on install costs. Do you plan on using any 3 phase equipment?

BTW, ALL the information previously posted within this topic can be found at http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/

Thank you sir - if I had a preference I would run all my heavy appliances from 440V - and leave the lighting up to the 220V - but alas I do not have this opportunity - or so I've been told.

I will await your reply on wire specifications - I to would prefer all underground - however cost still remains a fact. I have a small bridge just prior to the commencement of my property line and therefore thought of running the cable to the bridge - hook up a junction box and then go underground from there - on to my property. Interested in any solutions you may have to this.

Thanks again

Barry Croos

Hi - you mention runing power lines above to your home.

I have a run of approximately 650 yards - the first 500 to be above ground - the last 150 below ground. I have 220v at the main road and will be installing a 100amp service in our home.

Do you have any ideas on what type and size of wire I will require?

Do I need to place a transformer out at the main highway to insure proper power levels?

I hope someone here has some answers - as the more I continue to read this section the more concerned I become.

Barry

Hi Barry,

The answers to your questions are a little complicated but the solution to your situation SHOULD totally lie in the hands of your energy authority.

1.

It is not economical to run cables above ground for a distance & then run them underground for the remainder of the distance. In your situation, running cables underground for a distance of 150 metres will mean that the overall cable size will have to be increased to allow for the extra heat 'held' in the underground cables. Therefore, in your situation, it would be more sensible to run the cables underground the entire length of the run or above ground for the entire length of the run. Underground cables are not seen & therefore not ugly. Overhead cables have their advantages, which are;

Reduced cable size due to better heat dissipation.

Easier to find any faults & therefore somewhat easier to maintain.

2.

The size of the cable will be affected by the voltage drop over a certain distance. For example, if you installed 100 amp cables without considering the length of the run, you may very well end up with a reduced voltage at your house. This is not desirable as it may cause equipment to operate incorrectly or can even damage some equipment. Subsequently, if the correct size cables are installed, there should be no need to install a 'step up' transformer. Be advised though, you may be required to install a transformer at the boundary of your property because the nearest 'domestic supply' transformer may be too far away from your property.

3.

The type of cable used is important.

If your supply is 'overhead', the cables could be 'bare' or 'single insulated' (a single layer of insulation surrounding the wire). They will either be copper or aluminium. Aluminium cables are generally larger for a given current rating, compared to that of copper cables for the same current rating. Aluminium cables are greatly cheaper compared to copper cables.

If your supply is 'underground', it should be laid in appropriately sized PVC conduit & buried at a minimum depth of 600mm. I would recommend this minimum depth in Thailand be increased to 1200mm. The cable(s) inside the conduit can be either single wires or multi-core. Single wires are the cheapest.

Barry, I hope this is not too confusing. If so, ask me & I will try to clarify.

Don't forget...this installation, even though you may be paying for it, should be TOTALLY in the hands of your energy authority (who SHOULD dictate to the electrician, what needs to be done). Maybe I'm wrong? Maybe in Thailand, it is up to the electrician to design the consumer mains from transformer to the 'point of connection'? Maybe somebody can DEFINITIVELY enlighten me on this.

I don't know if or how Thai electricians calculate voltage drop in cables. If there are no clear standards, it would be almost impossible for them to do such a calculation.

elkangorito

Thanks very much for your reply - I'm looking at 100amps usage for our home - Is there a difference between copper and aluminium? I would assume copper is the better conductor? Therefore my idea is to double the size of the wire required - there must be some way to calculate the resistive load of copper wire lets say 100 meter of wire at a specific wire size is there not.

I would also like to know about the different types of insulation (inner and outer) - I'm close to the sea - have the usual rain and heat factors - and like to be on the safe side.

I have been following your series on grounding and circuit breakers - very good - could you forward to me all the drawings you have at this time - I caught the first one for the MEN - but as I work out of country every now and then I'm sure I have recovered the rest.

I hope perhaps that someone will be around who has done this before and can help as well.

Many thanks

Barry Cross

Hi elk

Whilst your advice is top shelf, straight out of the regs, I'm afraid its unlikely to benefit the layman who won't really understand the issues and certainly can't be sure in the LOS of what he is buying. I was really shocked (no pun intended) to read here what I suspected viz that the "direct" setting on the Safe T Cut RCD (made in thailand) mean the protection is bypassed. This is criminal IMHO. Under no account should this device be used. It would never be permitted in the civilised World.

I am pleased to be made aware of the hairdryer problem. Clearly a lethal device that must never be used in a bathroom - period.

What is worse than being aware that you do not have proper earth protection?

Its to think that you have RCD protection when in fact its doesnt work.

On this point let me add my experience which is that a lightning discharge near your house can "blow" and RCD sensitive electrocinic circuitry yet give no visible warning that your RCD is kaput. This happened on my hot shower and I only by change pushed the test button to no effect. We had a strike last week which took out our washing machine.

I wouldnt put a PC on and RCD circuit. They are notoriously leaky due the poor quality power supply inside (its a switched mode type). The only thing you can do is to earth the chassis.

I think the bottom line for the layman is to be aware that any metal parts of electrically connected equipment are potential shocking.(no pun intended). Always treat with suspicion. Try never to grab hold of an electrical device with both hands - very dangerous if there is a leak. If in doubt try the bare knuckle test. Lightly brush your knuckle over a metal part. If its live, you will get a tingle but not a fatal shock (assuming dry conditions). Better still use a good quality neon screw driver - but test it on a live socket to make sure its working first. Dont mess with electrics in bare feet (flip flops are not much better) or in damp/wet conditions.

Unless you know what you are doing, dont mess with live circuits. Remember the idle tizzy (electrician) always walks around with one hand in his pocket for very good reasons.

It would be nice to say "Go and talk to your qualified electrician". Give me a break, whats that in the LOS. Even if you found one, he is likely to be as precious as a quack doctor and certailny not in a position to discuss the finer point of RCD specs even if he understood english or the technology.

Teh only thing they seem good at is pinning cables onto walls neatly.

I had one from the Elec authority come and quote me for an overhead single phase supply 1km long to our farm. He worked out all the pole positions and bill of materials and Tea money ok. When I asked him what power it would supply at 200 vac he was flummuxed. So I did my own quick calc and could draw more than 5A and it was going to cost 100k for this temporary supply. I bought a honda generator instead.

So you penalised by being a Falang. Happens all the time in the LOS. Some days its best to stay in bed.

Hi - you mention runing power lines above to your home.

I have a run of approximately 650 yards - the first 500 to be above ground - the last 150 below ground. I have 220v at the main road and will be installing a 100amp service in our home.

Do you have any ideas on what type and size of wire I will require?

Do I need to place a transformer out at the main highway to insure proper power levels?

I hope someone here has some answers - as the more I continue to read this section the more concerned I become.

Barry

Thanks Dragonman

but when I initially transfer the money what do I put on the transfer form because the money will go into the company then the company will buy the house ie do I state house purchase?

My Lawyers Advised to put "For Investment In Thailand"

Also does the company need a bank account or can my own account be used first, there are lots of properties for sale with a company should I buy that or is it better to form my own?

Get yourself a company bank account (Usually a company savings account) you then can easily audit from 1 place

And finally I would like my g/f to have a share in the company and build some small rooms for rent on the land she owns does that make the company a trading one, would that look better at the tax office?

Yes, trade if you can

Did your lawyer advise you why you needed a Fx certificate to invest in a Thai Company?

What is a FX Certificate??

Tesco - http://www.tesco-online.com/products/se/TES240R.htm - 240 VAC Surge Arrester for residential and light industrial usage. Installed at wattmeter, service entry, or weatherhead, safety clamps and dissipates lightning induced safely AC line high voltage current impulses going to a residence.

I'd be wary of using this device in Thailand.

Because we don't use the 110/220V split phase system I'm not certain that it would correctly clamp without the centre tap being connected. Without the actual diagram of the device I can't be certain though, maybe a mail to the manufacturer would be in order.

It certainly won't introduce a hazard, I'm more concerned about destroying the device and removing the protection that you think you have.

Also remember you won't be able to install it on the hot side of your main isolator (provided by the supply company).

EDIT. BTW, I still believe that this thread should be pinned, if only to keep all discussions on electrical safety in one location.

I'll do that (get a diagram) I'm sure something can be worked out.

I'll also second the "pinned"

Spot on mate

Only one comment, maybe we should have a 'posh' version of the consumer unit (distribution board) with ELCB protection for portable appliances but without ELCB for lighting and 'essential supply' (fridge, freezer etc.).

EDIT Mods, we should get this thread pinned, such an important subject, I'll vouch for elkangorito being a qualified and competant electrician. Ignore what he says at your peril!!

Hey Guy's - This could not have come at a better time - we are about to start construction on a new home - please keep it coming - can you address the difference between a standard circuit breaker and an ELCB?

I also have purchased from the U S a commercial lighting protection circuit - I feel this is an excellent first line of protection in this enviroment.

thanks again and keep it comin

Barry

Hi Barry.

Can you please provide more details about this "commercial lighting protection cuicuit"? Why do you feel that it is an "excellent first line of protection in this enviroment"?

I/we will be addressing the issues you speak of (ELCB's), in the near future (maybe later this week if I can get my bum into gear).

In follow up to your question regards lighting protection - this unit is installed at the WattMeter.

I'm following your input regards home wiring systems - and feel with the proper home system in place and a Tesco unit out on the pole - I'd be in pretty good shape.

Barry

Thanks for your post Robin but there some things that you said that need to addressed. My comments are in red.

Electrical wiring is one of many pet hates in the los. thai wiring at the user level is completely incompetent and unsafe judged against europeean stands - i wont even beging to mention on how many accounts but its a national disgrace. I fully agree.

the flang can best protect his domestic residence by installing an RCD safety breaker (earlier called an ELCB and also named a GFI in the states. Its around 1500 baht in homepro and can be part of proper distribution board (as made by Square D, one of the better makes). This is not entirely true. The BEST & FOREMOST form of protection is a correctly earthed MEN system employed at the installation. Earth Leakage Protection devices are electronic & are therefore, apt to fail. To put your life TOTALLY in the hands of one of these devices is foolishness.

It is an invaluable ADDED protection for your family BUT

be aware

a) Much of thai electrical goods is very shoddy electrically which means that you will get earth leaks in time - a rice cooker is a typical example - sometimes lethal. so this may result in nuisance trips or intermittant trips. A proper earthing system & an MEN link will fix this provided the appliance is adequately earthed.

Most existing witring will be 2 wire and the RCD is an essential protection, but a 3 wire Euro pattern system is preferable (available in homepro and typically seen on PC peripherals. but this needs a proper earth rod installed in the ground. this may increase the number of nuisance trips. The addition of Earth rods do not cause nuisance trips...unless equipment is faulty. In such a case, the fault is easily detected & the device is repaired/replaced.

c) If you use an earth rod, dont put it anywhere near an aerail mast as a lightening strike may blow your safety breaker without you knowing. this happened to me on my shower heater and the safety trip no longer worked - and I DIDNT KNOW i was unprotected. There is absolutely no evidence to say that earth rods attract lightning. On the other hand, a lack of earth rods will increase the risk of death should lightning strike an installation. After a lightning strike (secondary or primary), the user is advised to have all electrical protection tested for correct operation. The safest option is to replace all protection devices. This is rarely done as it is not generally necessary unless a direct strike has destroyed equipment.

d) RCDS are essential for electric showers (usually built in to the unit) and also for any equipment to be used outside in the yard. To be really safe you should use a step down transformer 200/110 and 110 volts machinery but its diifficlt to find here. If you indicate the use of a 'stepdown transformer', be sure to know what you are talking about. The technically safe 'low' voltage is any voltage less than 32 volts RMS. Contrary to popular belief, 110v is as dangerous as 220v.

e) PC power supplies are notoriously leaky and shocking so you may not be able to use this via you RCD cisrcuit. You will have to provide a separate supply and its own earth rod - as i do. Many appliances are 'leaky & shocking' because an appropriate earthing system is not used together with an appropriate MEN link. Again, the installation of an appropriate earthing system & an MEN link will resolve these problems. There is no such thing as a 'non leaky' appliance. For this reason, the MEN system together with appropriate earthing was introduced.

Still alive but I know of some who are not. If you continually trust your RCD's, you may not be alive much longer.

Hello again from Barry

The surge protection system you enquired about is:

Tesco - http://www.tesco-online.com/products/se/TES240R.htm - 240 VAC Surge Arrester for residential and light industrial usage. Installed at wattmeter, service entry, or weatherhead, safety clamps and dissipates lightning induced safely AC line high voltage current impulses going to a residence.

In the discussion above keep in mind - if you increase voltage you lower current - and voltage doesn't kill you - its the current.

Barry

Spot on mate

Only one comment, maybe we should have a 'posh' version of the consumer unit (distribution board) with ELCB protection for portable appliances but without ELCB for lighting and 'essential supply' (fridge, freezer etc.).

EDIT Mods, we should get this thread pinned, such an important subject, I'll vouch for elkangorito being a qualified and competant electrician. Ignore what he says at your peril!!

Hey Guy's - This could not have come at a better time - we are about to start construction on a new home - please keep it coming - can you address the difference between a standard circuit breaker and an ELCB?

I also have purchased from the U S a commercial lighting protection circuit - I feel this is an excellent first line of protection in this enviroment.

thanks again and keep it comin

Barry

Yes it can be done

monsieurhappy

Have a very good friend in some what the same situation as yourself - if you receive some good info would appreciate your passing along

Regards

Barry Cross