degrub

Garlic

Pennsylvania

A

Bernard

Where is the switch to turn the pump on/off ? you could replace or supplement the switch with a timer set to the minimum fill time from empty or less. i would not put in a block valve on the line to the tank in any case without a relief path for deadhead that allows flow through the pump. This system does not appear to be designed to be blocked in and appears “safe” as designed. Steam/water explosions are nasty and will throw pump casing bits quite a ways . from the description, it appears there is already an overflow on the tank . Since it has happened before, i assume there was no harm to the tank. if you only have a couple days to deal with this, it sound s like calling bil daily is the plan. The worst case seems to be overflowing the tank for a while.

Assuming the pump is on land, Just cut in a reducing T close to the pump discharge and either connect a 5-10 mm line/hose going back to pond or same with a spring upstream pressure regulating valve set for slightly less than the pump deadhead pressure. pump will turn itself off every night , correct ? is the pump for the line from the lake to the tank also submersible? If so, dead heading should not matter. it would help if we knew where there are check valves and other valves in the lines between the lake and the tank. Also, brand and model of pump, self priming, etc. most atmospheric tanks will have a vapor vent line on the roof to handle overflow conditions. If not, then rupturing the tank at a bottom seam is possible since the piping is usually stronger.

Righteous

heretic

Raven

Skill

which taxing government are you asking about ? For US income taxes, last time i checked , SS benefit is not income until SS is sending you money.

‘nCheese

Lucy

Ethernet cable or coax in the second one ?

Doctor

Simulant

Land

Yes, i see some now.

If a ridge vent is used, the soffit slots are used to set up a thermosyphon effect under the bottom roof surface. Generally, you want equal vent area at the roof peak and at the soffit. You also want the soffit area distributed evenly in the spaces between the rafters. A few round holes will probably work ok, but will not be optimal for getting maximum flow under the roof . if there is not a ridge vent, then the holes and placement will not matter as much, just make sure you have roughly equal area at the vent and the soffit inlet. If the vent is powered, the manufacturer should provide a guide for soffit vent area required.

If you can remove the existing solid soffit, i expect one coul use a carbide tipped skill saw and insertion cut slots in the board. Not worth the time in my book. Once down, easy to replace with vented soffit.

I see. The LTE folks adopted the same name for their bandwidth levels as the wireline folks use for interconnections. Thanks for that and apologies for the confusion. Cheers !

Carbide tipped is what i have used for cement board straight cuts. Not sure of availability there for hole saws. i tend to agree the safest alteritive is to replace with pre cut and pre painted soffit . Maybe hire it done in this case.

All i am saying is you don’t need to go to the higher spec cat6 for any of the lan ethernet runs. Cat5e is more than enough for 1gbit/sec ethernet cabling, and even good enough for higher ethernet speeds over shorter distances. The only reason to go to higher spec s if there is high level of electrical noise in the room. Residential installation would not usually have that concern.

#1 piece of advice for large diameter hole saws, particularly if you are standing on a ladder, let the tool do the work. Keep the pressure at just enough to make dust. You will get cleaner holes drilled and are less likely to throw yourself off balance. Use a N95 or KN95 dust mask as you will be right under or next to the hole when you drill. Cement board dust is similar to asbestos dust in its effects on lung tissue

CAT5e will be more than capable for what you are doing.