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SamuiGrower

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Posts posted by SamuiGrower

  1. 1 hour ago, ABCDBKK said:

    That's interesting. So the smaller popcorn buds from the same plant will always have lower THC levels, or not necessarily? 

    That is correct, the THC percentage as well as other cannabinoids will be lower.

     

    1 hour ago, ABCDBKK said:

    I haven't heard of anyone ever getting harmed by a mycotoxins from weed and mold or insecticides I don't worry much about. The air we breathe is filled with toxins, bacteria, and viruses. Mold too I assume. So is the food we eat. Especially in an hot humid country in the tropics. Anyway, I only vape, so I worry less about contaminants than if I were breathing in actual combusted particles from smoking and burning the weed. 


    Just mentioning facts. There is a reason why all ‘batch harvests’ in the USA and Canada are tested for myco, molds and pesticides before selling to the consumer base. Not hearing about something does not give any of us plausible deniability. Just don’t say you have never been told. Respiratory issues due to inhaling myco/mold through combustion or vaping weed is quite documented, just not in markets with no obligation to testing.

     

    1 hour ago, ABCDBKK said:

    Back to my original question though, it sounds like just starting with good quality seeds doesn't guarantee you a plant with high THC output.


    That is also correct. To make matters worse, the seeds you are buying, if not bred out to have consistent traits of the crosses (male/female traits of the parent line), will have wild phenotype expression - traits of both lineages expressed in the seeds. In other words, plant 6 seeds and get 4 (or more ) completely different plants. This is usually of no concern to the hobby grower but is of little benefit to a commercial grower at any scale.

     

    Cannabis is commoditized in a free market based on THC content. This is somewhat unfortunate as most of us here know weed is much, much more than just THC percentages. “Hunting” for the best weed at the best price, as per this thread, is usually a “one off”, never to be found again, trial and error game. This thread is quite popular and I have found it humorous and entertaining. It is however, NOT enlightening by any stretch of the imagination.

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  2. 1 hour ago, ABCDBKK said:

     

    I wonder though if the THC level a grower ends up with has a lot to do with their own skills as a grower. Meaning, I wonder if one grower might get 30% and another grower only 15% out of the same exact seeds


    You can count on that, but more importantly, temperature, light levels, humidity and nutrition are all important factors as well. No two plants of the same strain will test the same nor will any two parts of the same plant test the same. There is a wide range of cannabinoid, terpene and flavonoid percentage from cola to popcorn buds (top to bottom).

     

    Way too much credence is put into THC percentage, especially in a market that has no mandatory testing (like ALL legal markets do). Here, it’s always buyer beware. I would be more concerned about drying and curing practices and, all the while, hope there are no mycotoxins, mold, or insecticides in the flower you buy.

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  3. 9 minutes ago, LOWERCASEGUY said:

    Kind of a crap story.  You can tell by the writing style


    A lovely review of writing style.

     

    Perhaps you should read the white paper and not the journalists synopsis. 

     

    More information: Andrew Moore et al, Cannabidiol (CBD) Products for Pain: Ineffective, Expensive, and With Potential Harms, The Journal of Pain (2023). DOI: 10.1016/j.jpain.2023.10.009

    Journal information: Journal of Pain 
     
  4. Unfortunately, organic inputs like blood and bone meal need to be broken down and made bioavailable through mineralization through bacteria and fungi. If you have a deficiency they will not help, in enough time to turn around your issue.
     

    Elemental deficiencies are corrected through foliar feeding and root drenches.

     

    Blood meal and bone meal are two completely different inputs. One provides nitrogen and the other phosphorus.

     

    You mentioned you are growing autoflowers. If you are experiencing abiotic stress and nutrient issues, you can count on your plant going into flower immediately producing a single cola (like most of the images on the forum). Autoflowers DO NOT LIKE STRESS.

  5. Observations:

     

    Leaf margins curling upwards: You are likely experiencing environmental issues. My experience tells me abiotic stress is causing your problem, nutritionally. Extreme heat, and humidity (or lack thereof) and light stress (too much direct sunlight for a young plant). That stress will lead you to believe they are overwatered, underwatered, too much nutrients, too little nutrients, etc. 

     

    Yellowing of top, apical leaves: Mass flow of immobile nutrients like calcium will cause lockout of potassium. That is exactly what your problem looks like. This is cause by the environmental stress. Classic!

     

    Change your environmental conditions and you will see the plant correct itself.

     

    Your plant (at this point) is in too large of a container. You should start in a small(er) container until the plant has about 8-10 nodes. Then transplant. Young plants should concentrate on growing tall and not growing tap roots (a huge energy drain)

     

    Adding cal-mag will treat the symptom, not the problem. 

     

    Boron will present with twisted,  new growth (rare). If you are feeding a bottled nutrient A/B mix, find a trace element mix to add, as I’m sure, if you are using a local potting mix, it may be trace element deficient. 

     

    Lastly, when in the proper sized container, always water to runoff to prevent accumulation of nutrients (your next anticipated issue). This is difficult to grasp (or do) when you have a 15cm plant in a 5 gallon pot and you are inclined to just water around the stem.

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  6. 11 hours ago, Poilu said:

    I cannot smoke so I make extra virgin coconut oil infusion using a dedicated decarb appliance. Does the CBD content become degraded during the process and if so by how much? Merci beaucoup.

    CBDa is a little more difficult to decarboxylate, requiring longer times and technically, higher temperatures. The issue with ‘home’ decarboxylation of CBDa is the degradation (oxidative) of other cannabinoids. You can expect all terpenes to be volatilized and evaporated off at that point. THCa will ultimately convert to CBN, which has 25% of the psychoactive attributes of THC. This won’t be a problem if THC is not what you are after, as suggested. To your question; it is difficult, without testing, to determine how much thermal degradation of CBD is taking place. Heat, oxygen and light are mostly responsible for degradation.

     

    For a 97% conversion efficiency of CBDa, use 127c for 50 minutes or 130c for 20 minutes (technically)
     

    I am in the CBD space, and use a lab grade, double-walled, borosilicate glass reactor to decarboxylate CBDa distillate (vacuum rotovaped first to distill off the ethanol first), circulating 130c oil through the outer wall, under constant circulation (both oil and distillate) for 30 minutes. This equates to 95-97% efficiency (tested). We start collecting terpenes off at 100c (mostly monoterpenes).

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  7. 4 hours ago, Pouatchee said:

    i think autos are the way to go especially if one can reproduce seeds easily.

    Easy, yes, but those seeds will have such genetic diversity it will look like a grab bag of good, bad and ugly. When crossing autos in particular, the MxF (male x female) lineage of each strain will produce a staggering amount of genetic diversity. Autoflowering, in general, is a recessive trait and your crosses will produce any number of the following phenotypes: male & female photoperiod seeds, hermaphrodites, males & female autos. As far as the characteristics of purple punch and NL’s in the seeds that are produced - like I said above, good, bad, and ugly. There is far less of a “freak show” when crossing photoperiods because there is no Cannabis Ruderalis (autoflowers) in their genetics. I would like to point out that ALL autoflowers on the market are a cross between C. Ruderalis and C. Sativa/Indica. On a good day, each autoflower strain already has 4-5 phenotypes. So when you cross two autoflowers you can expect 16-25 different phenotypes.

     

    Culling out phenos from auto x auto crosses will take 5 generations to produce stable seeds and traits. As I stated in a previous post, it’s easier to work with photoperiods as far as stability. You can do one F1 cross then back cross for S1. Two generations for stable genetics.

     

    But since you like ‘the science’ and it’s been a rewarding hobby, have fun. It will be like getting a grab bag of 100 different seeds! ???? Your seeds will provide years of genetic diversity.

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  8. 2 hours ago, Pouatchee said:

    did you ever cross pollinate auto-flowers?

    No. I have been working on mid to large scale grows (consulting) since 2014, and from my experience, do not find autoflowers reliable enough to work with at scale, economically. I have done trials with them and frankly, find they get wonky with any stress event (temperature, humidity - VPD fluctuation). “Early” flowering (SOG and SCROG style), single cola, ridiculously low yields, phenotype fluctuation AND if that’s not enough, they can herm (express hermaphroditism) as fast as you can say, “ladyboy”.

     

    I have done genetic projects. My company developed Cherry Abacus and Cherry Abacus 2.0 with the 2018 Farm Bill, Hemp legalization in 2018 in the USA. It’s a high CBD, low THC, with some decent secondary cannabinoids as well. If you Google it, you will see every Tom, Dick and Mohammed seedbank offering Cherry Abacus. No two are the same because, like I have stated before, the two biggest lies in the cannabis seedbank sector is: the name of the strain and the THC percentage. I have a few million CHAB and CHAB 2.0. ——BUT I DIGRESS!!!! Sorry. ????????????
     

    With that said, I do know this: it will take 5 generations of back crossing to create anything remotely stable with autoflowers. You can expect a lot of phenotypes with unsatisfying characteristics, to put it gently. It will be very difficult to control unplanned cross pollination while you’re trying to find phenos with good characteristics..

     

    I realize not everyone is growing commercially and hobby grows are awesome but do the work with photos (photoperiod C. Indica/Sativa) - it’s much more satisfying and far more reliable. Autoflowers (C. Ruderalis) just aren’t wired the same way. Their carbon footprint, nutritional and lighting expense are the same as a photoperiod and they yield far, far less. Ultimately, it’s this that makes it a non-starter for me.

     

    What do I think of those light choices? I take a very dim view of them, pardon the pun. I don’t want to sound preachy BUT do not skimp on your lights. Lights are the primary source of yield and potency they should NEVER be your limiting factor, not even if you plan on growing one plant. It would be a waste of bandwidth to state all the reasons why you shouldn’t buy ‘those’ lights. 
     

    Buy a standard form-factor light bar style light like Mars Hydro. If your intent is a knock-off ‘cheaper’ option, try alibaba - there are some terrific options, and if you’re interested I would make a recommendation. I wouldn’t consider (in a hobby grow) anything less than 650 watts if you’re looking for quality, dense flower with great bag appeal. Buy a ‘standard’’ PAR (ePAR), full spectrum, 3000-3500 kelvin/color for veg & flowering. Current Samsung LM301B/H diodes and Meanwell drivers. Good=650 watt, Better=800 watt, Best=1000 watt. 

     

    We trialed these and loved them. They are here in Thailand and I have no affiliation.

    https://phlizonth.com/products/phlizon-ultra-full-spectrum-led-grow-bar-light-8-bars
     

     

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  9. STS (Silver Thiosulfate) for producing feminized seeds, I have found, is far more reliable and predictable, especially in high temp/high humidity environments. It is extremely difficult to quantify colloidal silver ppms and can create some unusual mutations. STS is far easier to work with.

     

    There are multiple SOP/TEKS on the internet that can be found. Happy to help with any guidance….

  10. Just to be clear, autoflowers, Cannabis Ruderalis, is NOT a photoperiod plant. It will enter a generative state  (flowering) through “maturity” signaling and not through ‘short day’ lighting. They are completely unaffected by light and nutritional regimes and any type of ‘crop steering’. 

     

    To further complicate matters, C. Ruderalis (autoflowers) are extremely susceptible to ANY stress (abiotic/biotic) and can: flower or produce hermaphroditism at the drop of a dime (baht ????). I find them, on a commercial level, to be extremely unreliable and unpredictable. As many of you autoflower growers know, they can not be cloned or manipulated to produce female seeds and their yields are notoriously low. 

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