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Jurghh

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  1. My local proper electrics store didn't have them in stock when I checked last week. That's not surprising now I see that the Lazada options are all from China. I've ordered some which should arrive around the same time I'm back in Thailand. Updates to follow. Thanks again.
  2. OK here is the information you seek. It's easy to find a parking space at one of the BKK short term car parks, much easier than Don Mueang. My preference is to enter the short term car parks at BKK (I think there are two opposite the terminal) from the 1st floor then immediately head to the second or third floor where there are more spaces. The other option is to enter the car parks from the 5th floor but if you do this you have to drive all through the 5th floor past many double parked cars (it can be tight) just to get to the ramp where you can down to the lower floors. I've never had a problem finding a space on floors 2,3,4. I usually go for floor 3. Floors 1 & 5 have the convenience of a walkway to the terminal. For the other floors you need to use the steps or lift to floor 1 or 5. You can park as long as you want but it's around 250THB a day. Long term parking... I think as others have said it's around 140THB a day. There's a shuttle bus to and from the main terminal. When I used this option I took a Grab taxi from the car park to arrivals. It's about a 6 or 7 minute journey. On the way back I took the shuttle bus from just past where the taxis pick up passengers. There's a bus stop there. I had to wait at least 20 minutes maybe longer for the bus. The bus is free but you need to make sure you get the correct bus. The information is on the Airport website. Each parking space has a cover which offers some shade. There's plenty of space between cars so it's unlikely someone will 'door you'. After almost two weeks my car had a thick layer of dust all over it but you clean your windows and you're away. You just turn up and take a ticket. There's a person in the little kiosk. When you leave you can pay by QR or cash. Long term car park location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/DAp6L77QzREasKmM6
  3. This could be the answer! Thanks again. I will check if they have them at the local electrics store tomorrow. I'm not sure if i'll be able to fit one at the top but i'll have at least one slot free on the bottom right side and that's obviously the support end.
  4. I will have a look if loosening the two screws on the rail allow me to move it outwards a mm or too. The rail isn't a DIN rail though so even the existing MCBs don't clip on (see photo). They do sit against the a little better than the RCBOs. Both MCBs and RCBOs clip on to the DIN rail running horizontally at the bottom.
  5. All of the existing circuits except the lighting (no ground wire) and the aircons are now RCBO protected. I just need to add in the four new RCBO circuits. As you can see from the photos the rcbos on the right side are slanted. This is because they don't clip onto the rail. Could I put a support underneath to help keep them straight?
  6. It seems like the best way to route the blue neutral pigtails is to go along the case just below the main breaker but I will need to secure them to the back of the case. What's the best way to do this? Should I drill holes in the case to thread cables ties through or are there specific parts available to hold the cables?
  7. I imagine most folks don't use a torque screwdriver for this. I will admit that 2 or 3nm feels tighter than I thought it would with a screwdriver. I tighten the existing neutral screws to 1.5nm so they were less than that previously and have been fine for a decade. 1.5nm it is.
  8. I swapped a sockets circuit MCB with a 16A RCBO and it worked fine. I tested the RCD function with a socket tester and the circuit tripped like it's supposed to. I guess the next main thing to consider is balancing the load on the three different lines when adding the 4 new circuits. I've got the torque specs for the RCBO but I don't have anything for the neutral bar. The screws are quite soft and don't seem to like much more than 1.5nm. Is that sufficient?
  9. Thanks again for the reply. Have to admit I feel a bit silly now. I had the idea to remove them because I intend to replace the aircons in the nearish future and the new units might be a bit smaller. Taking the covers off will do the job. Phew.
  10. Hi, I need to remove 4 indoor units for new wallpaper to be laid. I take it the refrigerant line needs to be closed off somewhere first. Is it pretty straightforward?
  11. That's a good point, thanks. The wiring looks pretty decent so far so i'm hoping they haven't connected any borrowed neutrals.
  12. I think I know what might have happened. Looking at the photo the green wires look quite thin (similar to the thickest green wires in my CU). I should measure the diameter of one of those wires in the control room to see if it matches the thickest wire connected to my earth bar. There are 11 white cables connected to the neutral bar for the 11 circuits installed plus the thick black cable at the top of the bar. There are also 11 green cables connected to the earth bar. The lighting circuit (all lights on one circuit) doesn't have an earth cable. So if the green cable diameters match (as explained above) then the earth bar likely is connected to the building's main earthing. 10 green cables for the circuits plus 1 out to the control room. What do you think?
  13. One of the senior technicians from my building came to have a look today. There was a language barrier but we managed to clear a few things up. They invited me into the main electrics room for the floor and showed me the main ground cables. There were 10 cables for the ten apartments (so I had one). He said it was not normal that the main ground cable from that room did not connect directly to the earth bar in my CU. I explained that I was confused because i've owned the place since new and the installation is original. Somewhere between that control room about 10 metres away and my CU the main earth cable is doing something mysterious. Nonetheless it would appear that the circuits are grounded. I tested 231V L to E and 0.45v N to E. They also said I should be fine to swap the MCBs for single width RCBOs. I'm going to order one RCBO first and see if it works. I've uploaded a photo from the control room. There are 10 green earth wires connected.
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