thaisail

I live in a rural part of Thailand and there are no language schools nearby. I can't really afford private lessons to learn Thai but with all the online courses that my daughter was doing with the lock down, I saw the potential for starting up a decent size class for us English speaking people to learn Thai language in an online course. If one exists on line in Thailand already for groups of more than 5 students, please direct me to the right website or school in Thailand where I can enroll on line. If there is no such on line course offered for a class of 5-10 students, perhaps this is a good place to see who else is interested in this concept and I will contact the possible teachers who are qualified to teach Thai in an on line format. 

I do not have the budget to pay for individual lessons and I always seem to learn better in a class room structure with fixed hours. So if there are other like minded people out there, please contact me. If there are any qualified Thai language teachers out there who are willing to teach a group of about 5-10 students on line and know how to manage the "Zoom" technology, please contact me and I will provide a list of potential students who are thinking about learning Thai on line. 

Which type of bank account can be used for the purpose of immigration to prove minimum 400,000 baht balance 2 months before and 3 months after the date for the annual visa renewal? If locked away at Kasikorn, I am being offered 0.45% interest for a 6 month locked deposit. Is there any other bank offing more in Thailand and will the immigration accept that type of bank account?

Also, which Thai bank has proven to be giving the lowest service charge and exchange rate commission for a wire transfer from the United States? I have Bangkok Bank, Siam Commercial and Kasikorn Bank accounts. Do immigration have a preference for any of these three banks?

3 months after the annual date for the marriage extension, can I remove some of the 400,000 as long as I put the balance back to 400K  two months before the annual visa renewal? 

I don't know if this post should be posted in banking or immigration since it concerns both topics.

1 hour ago, swm59nj said:

Just an update. I heard from the owner who is western. So no communication problem. He said the water rolling onto the floor is normal. And I should just wipe the area along the wall with a rag. That is all well and good. Except that the area where the bottles are fills with water while the shower is on. Then all this water rolls down to the floor towards the rear of the tub as the shower is on. And its a lot of water. Not just a small amount to wipe with a rag.

I will look into both the shower curtain suggestion and the glass shower screen. I think the screen would solve the issue better. But Im thinking its going to be costly to purchase and have it installed.

Owner also suggested maybe I can take baths instead of showers. 

Sorry for the venting. But Im very annoyed of the owners response. From my previous experience renting in Bangkok. It gives me the impression a lot of the owners have an attitude you pay the rent. But if there are any issues, too bad. 

           

My contractor did exactly the same as your condo builder. But I caught him in the act and made him raise the level of the tiles so that the water would drain back into the tub. But I put my shower at the base of the tub so that will never be an issue for me. I made sure that the slope of the floor went toward the floor drain so there would be no standing water after use. There is also a PVC floor drain that prevents odors from coming back up the drain. I think this solution will be the cheaper option but someone needs to be their to watch and supervise this kind of job. Thais are not that familiar with installing bath tubes because very few Thai people have them in their homes.

Would anyone like to recommend a bank in Thailand that I can use to deposit 400,000 Thai Baht for 6 months locked deposit for the purpose of renewing my marriage visa? Which bank would offer the best interest rate under these circumstances?

1 hour ago, Damrongsak said:

I had a solar water heater in Loei 40 years back.  Plastic wash tub covered by an old bus window.  On a good day, I could get the water to maybe 20-25 C by late afternoon.  Loei gets rather nippy in the cold season, eh?

I am an hour north of Loei in Chiang Khan and we have even more nippyness up here! The Solar water heater uses a stainless insulated tank on top and glass vacuum tubes that circulate the cold water down at an incline and then through convection the water gets heated by the sun on the way back to the tank. Because the hot water is surrounded by a vacuum, there is virtually zero heat transfer during the night so theoretically you should get hot water in the morning! On a bright sunny day, you will see steam coming out of the vent and the challenge is how to deliver the hot water where needed without damaging the piping. I am using PPR piping that is rated for maximum 95° C to feed a pump that will mix the water using a thermostat reducing the output temperature to 50° C so that I can distribute the water all around the house using a PP-R pipe rated at maximum 60° C. I figure that if I get 150 liters of 90° water at the end of the day, it might take another 100 liters of cold water to cool it down to 50° giving me 250 liters of hot water because I went all out and installed a bath tub for the ladies! 

I have a friend here in CK who wants to pass his water through a clear 1/2 " hose back and forth across his roof just to pre heat the water going to his electric shower. Not a bad idea as this will lower his electrical load required so that he can use a 3.5 Kw water heater during the cold winter days. But I love your idea of the plastic wash tub with the old bus window! I'll bet it worked real good around Songkran!

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

Are you looking at just adding the shower or doing something more electrically?

 

She is almost certainly on a 5/15 meter which would limit you to about 3.5kW (there's a reason so many 3.5kW showers are available).

How's the water pressure? You may need to factor a pump into the equation too.

 

Costs?

Some examples:-

3.5kw shower heater (not multipoint) - 2,100 Baht https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1133289

Stand alone RCBO - 500 Baht https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1079609

Box for the RCBO - 50 Baht

Ground rod - 100 Baht https://www.homepro.co.th/p/16377

Pipe, cable etc. etc. say another 1,000 Baht.

 

Competent sparks to install it - Priceless!

 

Let's have some photos of what she has now and we can give some pointers as what's really needed.

I am importing all stainless steel solar water heaters which require no electricity. The cost will be around 15,000 baht but then there is no need for any electric bills. Please PM me if you are interested. I will be placing my order for 2 units with 150 liter tanks in the next 2 weeks. One will be fitted on my house in Chiang Khan. The other will be for sale. All you need is sun! There is a place on the tank to fit an imersion heater resistance of about 1500 watts for rainy days or when using more than 150 liters of water after dark. This is an option found locally on Lazada. But there is plenty of sunshine in Thailand so I will not order the imersion heater unless I find the need.

2 minutes ago, thepdru said:

Thank you, but for everybody it will be before the Thai new year in April ? I am still confused about why it's different for different cars ?!

 

The tax is due about one year after you buy the car and get the permanent license tag. So if you buy your car in June, you will get your permanent license tag around September. So every year in September, you will be due to renew your registration. 

2 minutes ago, sezze said:

A normal water heater cannot be used as a multipoint 1 , as far as i know .

Multipoint water heaters use a flow detector to put the power on/off . A standard water heater got a pressure switch instead .

I got a gas water heater multipoint , , but it works the same ( only uses no electric but gas ) , there has been a topic of it before .

So if the safety switch operates on pressure and not flow, my idea will not work. Too bad!

I spent all of my money building this house and now I am short of funds needed to buy the solar water heater. I did however complete the entire network of green PP-R piping to the new bathtub and the shower in the house. We installed the 3.5 Kw on demand electric water heater in the garage bathroom where we lived during the house construction so we can still take hot showers but we have to go to the garage which is a minor inconvenience. But I just got a brilliant idea. Why can't I Tee into the hot water outlet from the electric water heater and use a hose to connect it to the hot water piping network which runs around the house to the kitchen sink and then around the corner to the house to the bathroom using the PP-R pipe that feeds the bathtub and the hot water pipe to the shower? All I would have to do is make sure that the cold water inlet valve to the hot water heater in the garage was open and then close off the water to the to the shower head in the garage. As soon as the hot water piping system would be pressurized with hot water, there would be hot water on demand to the entire house! 

My concern with this idea is that these on demand water heaters in Thailand are normally not under pressure. So that under normal circumstances, when you finish your shower, you normally turn off the cold water valve that supplies water to the shower and the heater stops on the safety flow switch. I wonder first if operating the system pressurized, would the safety flow switch turn off the power to the heater when the water is no longer flowing? If the safety flow switch operates as it should while the system is pressurized when the hose is connected to the hot water system in the house, theoretically, as soon as the hot water is supplied to the other bathroom, the heater should come on and heat the water and eventually hot water would arrive through the long pipe and no need to go the garage to get a hot shower! I just don't know if these type of heater are built for this kind of abuse. Of course when funds are available, I will fit the solar water heater but at 15,000 baht it may take some time to be able to place the order. I really don't have enough electrical capacity to run another electric electric heater as my meter is a 15 (45) meter and I am already running to much load with the 5 air conditioners to be able to add a second electric water heater in the house bathroom. 

Will this blow up my 3.5 Kw water heater if using it under constant pressure?

15 minutes ago, ubonjoe said:

For marriage it is 400k baht in a Thai bank for 2 months or proof of 40k baht income.

I nearly had a heart attack! When I saw that 600k and 60K per month, I thought there was a change in the rules and I started putting 40K in the bank for the last 2 months and my marriage visa is up for renewal in March. I was on a work permit until September 1st. I hope immigration will accept my work income from March to September and then my wire transfers for 40k from September to March!

My Ford dealer is saying that all their vehicles 2017 and newer are designed to burn B10. PTT is saying from 2011. There must be someone at Ford that can clarify this discrepancy. But now the issue is B7 which I can use in my area. I am still waiting for an answer for B7.

I have a 2011 Ford Ranger which has the 2.5 liter common rail engine with turbo. My local Ford dealer where I bought this truck told me not to use biodiesel in any of there truck models older than 2017. But PPT keeps telling me that I can use either B7 or B10. Where can I get the the definative answer from Ford Company because it seems that each Ford dealer has a different opinion. We are now burning B7 because here in Chiang Khan there no longer diesel which is now B10. I don't mind filling with premium once every 3 or 4 tanks but for my trips to Phuket the fuel cost with Premium makes the trip to Phuket about 30% higher cost. Burning B10 would be great if Ford would agree!

On 10/15/2020 at 4:44 PM, thaisail said:

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/toma-japan-750w-ps-180-gold-premium-edition-i292006020-s487010858.html?mp=1

Does anyone know where there is a good reference on the internet about sizing circuit breakers for the pump attached? My electrician is recommending 20 amps. But the calculators on the internet show running amps for two 1 HP 750 Watt, single phase 230 Volt 50 Hz automatic water pressure pump as about 5 amps. There is a thermal protection embedded in the windings of motor. I just want to make sure that I protect the motors on these two pumps. I have in my house a separate Chang safety breaker of 20 amps and I want to have the correct size breaker for each pump. Also wire size recommendation would be appreciated also. Right now we have 2.5 mm line and neutral and 1.5 mm earth cable running to the box that both pumps will draw from. But each pump will have it's own safety breaker.  

9 hours ago, Dickp said:

About 14 years ago when remodeling our house I had a solar water heater installed. Have hot water in all four bath rooms and kitchen sinks and out side washing machine, and out side maids sink. Best thing I have purchase in my 29 + years living Thailand cost was not that much and it's paid for it self many times over. Only replaced one fitting a few years ago. all piping in side the walls no exposé pipes.

I am putting solar water heating on my new house which will be complete in a few more days from now. Please can you send me a private message and let me know the brand and size of your solar heating system? Did you use PPR pipe system?

11 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

And 10 bar seems like a lot of pressure....

 

If it were me I would just use one pump to feed both the cold water and the heater. 

 

 

10 bar at 60° C is the maximum rating of the thin wall green PPR pipe that I bought. I will not put more than 2 bars of pressure on this pipe after the hot water pressure pump. I will set the thermostatic mixing valve to keep the hot water at around 50° C. With 150 liters of water in the insulated solar storage tank the water can reach boiling temperature in the summer and steam can be seen at times coming out the atmospheric vent on the top of the hot water storage tank. 

10 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Unless I'm missing something, do you not need to push cold water into the heater rather than pulling hot water out? 

Many solar water heaters cannot be pressurized. They rely on a level control valve similar to the valve used to fill a toilet tank. As you drain hot water from the solar tank, usually mounted on the roof, the cold water will refill through the automatic lever control valve. The way this one works, there are many long tubes of glass each within a larger tube of glass. The space between the two glass tubes is in a vacuum kind of like the old incandescent light bulbs. This way the inner glass tube is perfectly insulated from the outer glass tube so that even in extreamly cold climates the water passing through the inner glass tube can be very hot without transferring the heat to the outer tube. This makes this highly efficient type of solar water heater difficult to pressurize.

1 minute ago, Crossy said:

 

A cable 6" too long is 1,000,000 times better than one which is 1" too short ???? 

 

I was taught to leave enough slack to be able to re-wire a connection 3 times.

good point!

9 minutes ago, stouricks said:

Should that not have been determined before purchase?

It was only 175 baht and I figured that someone will tell me if I mess up!

1 minute ago, Crossy said:

No real need to pull the wiring at the meter.

 

With your 63A incomer turned off it looks like you have enough in the tails to "hinge" everything out of the way to remove your over/under and the DIN rail, install a longer rail with better screws and clip it all back together.

I wanted to do it that way but the Thai electrician left that awful looking excess cable loop that makes me cringe to look at it. So I thought I would cut the power from the meter one last time and get that cable cut and straight on top of the 63 amp breaker. Each time I use these Thai electricians, I hate having to do the job over again to make things clean and neat. Guess I have a bit of OCD after all!

26 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

No need to remove the rail as all the units clip on to it, you can, if the pigtails are long enough, just push the current units along the rail.

The screws I used are too long and the 63 amp CB and the voltage and current protector are hitting the screws so I will have to modify the way the did rail is attached. I am the one who built that box but I didn't know about the SPD when I did the job so I didn't pay attention to the screws. I still have a long piece of DIN rail if I need a longer piece to fit in there. 

I plan to fit a 2000 liter tank next to the kitchen that will be filled using float switches that will be connected to the 3" submersible pump from the well that is 40 meters deep. So as the water level goes down in the 2000 liter tank the lower float switch will start the submersible pump and fill the tank until the top float switch will stop the pump. The two new pumps described in the link below will be mounted next to each other at the bass of this 2000 liter tank.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/toma-japan-750w-ps-180-gold-premium-edition-i292006020-s487010858.html?mp=1

One of the pumps will be connected to draw water from the 2000 liter tank and put cold water pressure to the entire house. The other pump will draw water from the solar water heater mounted about 2 meters higher than the pump suction. There will be thermostatic mixing valve fitted between the two pumps so that the water temperature leaving the mixing valve will not exceed the rating of the PPR pipe which is 10 bar at 60 degree C. My concern is that after a full day in the hot sun during the summer before Songkran, the water temperature in the solar tank can go as high as 95 degrees C or even make steam. I am worried about keep the pressure pump cool enough so that it will not fail. So I look for ideas of how to cool the water coming from the solar tank sufficiently to prevent damage to the pump. One idea is to move the acumulator away from the pump to prevent the rubber diaphragm from being damaged by the heat. I may also have to move the pressure switch to protect it from the heat also. But the thing that concerns me the most is that the motor has thermal protection. I imagine that means that embedded in the windings there is a thermal switch which will open at a specified temperature and stop the pump until the windings cool down. So I am thinking of fitting a fan that that will blow air on the motor and wire the fan into the pressure switch so that when the pump starts so will the fan and of course stop when the pump stops. I also would like to fit a circuit breaker or fuse to protect the pump motor against overload. I guess I have to wait until the pumps are tested and see what the running amps will be. The motor is 750 watts or 1 HP so perhaps someone out there will know the running amps and I can order the right fuses or circuit breakers for the pumps. I throw this plan out there to the community for input. 

I just received my new SPD MOV from Lazada. I first want to know if I bought the right size! My main concern is protecting my three brand new Samsung double inverter copper 12,000 BTU aircons from any potential spike from lightning or otherwise. I also have a house full of only LED lighting.

My first question is about the wiring diagram. I will of course disconnect the line and the neutral from the PEA meter carefully with full safety equipment on before starting this job. I can then disconnect the wires from the bottom of the 63 amp CB. I would like to remove the entire DIN rail and replace the screws with ones that will allow me to slide the 63 amp CB to the left and the voltage current protector to the right. I am hoping to have enough space on the DIN rail to mount the SPD in middle. I hope there is room in the bottom of the 63 amp CB to clamp two wires instead of one in the same clamp on each side of the the bottom of the CB. I would then connect the other end of the jumpers to the Line and Neutral on the top of the SPD and put the same two shown in the photo back to connect the bottom of the 63 amp CB to the top of the voltage and current protector. I would then connect a minimum 10 sq mm earth wire (hopefully 16 sq mm Earth wire if I can find it), from the bottom of the SPD to the same Earth pin in the floor of the garage that the main panel earth is connected to. I was planning to buy a separate clamp and clamp the new SPD earth cable below the other wire and clamp from the panel. Would this work?

My second question is do I need to drive a separate Earth pin exclusively for the SPD? The one I have now is 2.5 meters long and I will be drip feeding water through the hole in the concrete to keep the earth around the pin wet all year around. 

I started reading some of the lightning nightmare stories on your electrical forum and I decided it is time to stop taking chances. I am building a new house in Chiang Khan and I have bought a protection device for low voltage, high voltage and high amps. I paid only 350 baht on Lazada and it comes from China. I am a little bit worried about this device for safety because it was so cheap! My building contractor used a Chinese chop saw that was 2300 watts and the device tripped when the amps reached 40 amps during the starting current. So I increased the setting from 40 amps to 45 amps so that he will not trip the device while I am away from the house. In any case the automatic reset worked after 30 seconds and the lights came back on automatically. The circuit breaker for the power receptacle was C16 size and it didn't trip which I guess is normal since it was only starting current.

The other concern I have is the heat building up in the plastic box so I removed the clear plastic cover to prevent overheating. I am looking for a small 220 volt fan that I can mount in the bottom of the box so that I can ventilate this box to keep it cool. So far I haven't found a fan that will be around 50 mm in diameter so if you know of one, please let me know. Until then I will have to leave the box with no door. I would also like to hear what you think the settings should be for the low voltage cut out and the high voltage cutout. Also the time settings for shut off and reset.  I have attached the default settings page from the manual but the only one that had been set different was the under voltage reset which had been raised by the factory to 190 volts. 

My house originally had a 80 meter length of 16 sq mm aluminum cable that my wife put in when she built a bungalow on her rice farm at New Years and that was good enough for the bungalow. When I went to PEA, they told me that the new house will require 25 sq mm cable because of the all the air cons I will be installing. So while under a two week quarantine in the bungalow in May (we escaped from Phuket when the lockdown ended), I had a 9000 btu double inverter Daikin air con fitted which prevented us from being roasted alive! We started on the new house by June and fitted a new length of 80 meter 25 sq mm aluminum cable to appease the PEA director and I think he was right in the end to require the larger cable. 

We built the house and I put in the RCBO panel shown attached and just last week I fitted this Chinese voltage and current protector because where I am living, there is a transient voltage of around 40 VAC when there is a blackout from the PEA. This 40 volts would keep my LED light on the Daikin air con lit up and I was worried about the inverter electronics in the Daikin AC that may not like that 40 volts AC on the power lines during a blackout. I am still waiting for the first black out to see if the 40 VAC is gone after the voltage and current device opens the circuit. I was wondering if someone on the grid is back feeding power from batteries and an inverter somewhere. I asked PEA about this and they just shrugged their shoulders and looked puzzled!

I decided to change the  80 meters of 16 mm aluminum line and neutral wires from the electric meter to 25 mm aluminum because my Thai boss told me that in Thailand, if I use copper main cables, they will steal my 80 meters of copper wire if I take a one month vacation. He recommended aluminum for this reason. Where the cable ends at the house, I bought a short section of 25 mm copper wire to run inside the house to the breaker box and used heavy duty clamps to clamp the aluminum cable to the copper cable outside the house under the roofing. 

Those cables are then connected to the first 63 amp CB shown in the small box with the din rail. From there, the cables go to the voltage and current protector and then from there they go back to the RCBO panel and connect to the 63 amp main circuit breaker there. I am not sure if this is the right way to wire this voltage protector but it made sense at the time.

I was thinking of adding the SPD from Lazada to that DIN rail in the small box and run a second ground wire from that box to same 2.5 meter ground pin that I hammered into the floor of the garage. This ground pin is now being used by the RCBO only. I poured about 20 liters of water today into the small hole that was left by the contractor who poured the cement slab under the garage 2 months ago. I made a classic mistake of not putting the ground pin outside where the earth will remain damp in the rainy season. So I will have to keep pouring water down that hole under the concrete to maintain a good ground on the system especially during the dry season.

So, I think there is room for the SPD I found on Lazada seen in the photo attached. My question is: Can I connect this SPD ground wire to the same ground pin as the RCBO panel and also to see if this device is really the right thing to buy since it is only 175 baht which I think might be too cheap to be safe and effective.

When my house is finished in two weeks, I will have the following loads.

3 x Samsung copper double inverter 12000 btu rated at 960 watt 4.6 amp each

1  x Daikin double inverter 9200 btu rated at 900 watt with 4.2 amp 

1  x York traditional 10,000 btu 13 amp starting current according to my new amp meter built in to the voltage and current protector

1  x shower water heater 3.5 Kw 

1  x 3 Kw deep submersible well pump draws about 7 amps to start and runs about 4 amps 

1  x shallow well pump about 300 watt

33 x LED light 15 watt each

Desktop computer with 20 inch monitor, two laptops, printer scanner

42" flat screen TV, 32" flat screen TV,

medium size microwave and other kitchen appliances

1 big Samsung inverter refrigerator/freezer and one medium size standard type fridge for the bungalow

Do you think I will get a big voltage drop with all that running at the same time?

I am also planning to add solar water heater and hot water pump and there will one day be about 24 x 330 watt solar panels put in next year

Appreciate any help and advice from all of you out there!

13 minutes ago, DrTuner said:

What's the Amp rating on that thing? I've been thinking of doing the same after the PEA somchais again managed to fry a couple of boards (dish washer and clothes dryer) by not connecting the neutral first. I'm running three phase so it leaked through somehwere and they got 380, poof. I fixed them myself by changing the overvoltage protectors that had turned to charcoal, but it's a PITA.

I haven't completed the wiring yet. Better wait until I can report the results! Should be in less than one week. My house is 220 Volt single phase. Not sure that this will work because this one seems to need 230 plus to reset and where I live we rarely do over 225 volts.

63A 230V Din Rail Adjustable Over Voltage And Under Voltage Protective Device Protector Relay Over Current Protection Limit You will find it on Lazada. It takes about 10 days to get one from China. Less than 300 baht!

I hope someone else at Thai Visa has tried one of these and can give the correct settings to set it up. I haven't gotten any reply from Khun Crossy yet and I am hoping he will see this post!

On 9/22/2020 at 7:18 AM, thaisail said:

Last night we had my first blackout from my new RCBO. My daughter was in the shower and when she turned on the hot water, the lights went out. I had taken the attached photo about an hour earlier to send to a friend who was an electrical engineer showing him the new box I was planning to fit to prevent damage from voltage fluctuations. I had rotated the setting from 30 mA to 6 mA for the photo and forgot to turn it back to 30 mA. So after the blackout, I made my daughter leave the shower and I put on rubber boots and went into the shower. My wife then put the main switch on and we closed all the breakers one by one and found that the water heater shown in the attached photo showed the normal red light indicating the built in ELCB was on. I pushed the test button and the red light went off indicating a successful test. So I opened the valve and the yellow power light cam on and the main breaker tripped again with another black out. The breaker was reset and I rotated the RCBO switch to 20 mA position and started the hot water again and the RCBO did not trip any more and I decided it was safe for my daughter to complete her shower since both the RCBO and the ELCB on the heater had been tested and appeared to be functional. So it appears that my 2 year old water heater has a slight electrical leakage. Should I replace the water heater?

We are connecting up the adjustable low and high voltage and high current tripping device. I will need to disconnect the mains from the meter which my electrician wants to do on live wires. I hope he knows how to do this safely. He should wear rubber boots, electrically safe rubber gloves and use screw drivers with insulated handles. The plan would be to then disconnect the 16 mm copper wires where they go into the main breaker shown in my photo to left of the RCBO module. I will then feed the line and neutral wires up through the top of the breaker box and then down into the new box on the left of the main panel. I hope there is enough slack in the overhead above the drywall ceiling so that I can connect those wires up through the top of the breaker box and down into the new box with the clear plastic door. I will then connect those cables to the top of the 63 amp air breaker shown in the photo. 

I will then add two small jumper cables 16 mm copper to the bottom of the Chinese Voltage and current programmable safety cutout. The cables would then go up the inside of the box and out through the top of the new box and then back down to the main breaker inside the main panel and connect to the line and neutral input to the main breaker. We can then open both the main breaker in the RBBO panel and the new 63 amp breaker in the new box. We would then reconnect the mains to the electric meter by the main road. I would the close the breaker before my new voltage and current safety breaker and the red led lights should come on and I can start programming the trip settings. 

Please can you advise me what the recommended settings should be for low voltage trip, high voltage trip? High Currant trip? Timer setting in seconds to reconnect the mains to the house?

In my area we have a steady voltage of 220 volts except when we have frequent blackouts from the weather. When we are blacked out I can still get a residual voltage of about 40 volts on my meter and the LED indicator light on the Daikin double inverter Air conditioners are dimly lit. I am hoping that this safety switch will eliminate this residual voltage. I think it must be coming from some battery inverters that are installed incorrectly in some of the remote farms in our area. These inverters must be back feeding into the main grid. 

I would also like your opinion about the way this safety trip is being wired and if you think there may be a better way to wire this up. Will this device replace a good surge arrestor for lightning?