drtreelove

I haven't been out to the Mae On tree growers in recent years, but I'm due for a visit. My wife is doing some real estate project management and we need to discover further resources for tree and landscape projects. I can keep an eye out for you. Do you have any favorites or ideas on what tree species you are looking for? I recommend avoiding the larger trees from the roadside tree yards (like in the two suggestions), there are some serious disadvantages in health and structural issues with these abused trees. They are dug and handled and stored with extremely unprofessional standards, and this can result in long term problems. Its tempting to go for larger trees, thinking that you will get an instant effect, and yes there are successful cases. But on the other hand, I have been called to assess many of these type of transplants that within 5 to 10 years have developed extensive root rot, wood decay and structural failures. Some species can take the abuse better than others, but some trees are prone to decay in the larger cut roots and limb structure. The progression of decay can go on unseen until there is branch breakage or wind-throw toppling. I recommend starting with smaller trees, giving them good growing conditions, soil fertility and water management. In this way the root systems and branch structure can develop and establish more naturally, without the extreme physiological stress and structural defects that occur with digging and moving the larger trees. Trees grow fast here with good care. In four years (and a better irrigation management program for the dry season) you will see some significant growth by the time you move back. Its not just my idea, but I agree with this from my 50 years of professional tree care experience: "I've seen smaller trees outgrow their larger counter parts MANY times....trees planted at the same time, in the same general location, and the same species. Smaller is better, smarter." "Studies have demonstrated that the size of transplanted trees has a measurable impact on establishment rates in the landscape. Larger trees require a longer period of time than smaller trees to produce a root system comparable in spatial distribution to similar sized non-transplanted trees. This lag in redevelopment of root system architecture results in reduced growth that increases with transplant size. Research has demonstrated that smaller transplanted trees become es- tablished more quickly and ultimately result in larger trees in the landscape in a few years" https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237555899_Infl_uence_of_Tree_Size_on_Transplant_Establishment_and_Growth "The main problem is that people want instant trees ... By digging up and transplanting a relatively large tree, the tree is suffering severe injury and shock to its current and often future health from which many trees will never recover. For better survival and health trees should be planted at a smaller size than... There are several sound environmental, physiological and economic reasons for planting smaller sized plants. Smaller is a relative term so what do I mean by smaller? For most trees, heights that measure from 5ft to 8ft is a good size for planting. This size is easy to handle, responds quickly after transplanting, is affordable but is large enough to visually fill the planting space. When a small tree is planted more of the root system is retained with the plant and the root system is more in balance with the above ground portion of the tree. A good thing to remember is that any plant is only as good as its root system. A tree can only grow leaves and branches if the root system can supply the needed water and nutrients. The roots of a small plant quickly establish in the surrounding soil and can then support new growth of the leaves and branches. For this reason smaller trees often catch up to and surpass the growth of trees that were planted at a larger size. The growth of the tree will adjust to the soil and moisture conditions where it is permanently planted, not to where it was grown in the nursery." http://www.whiteoaknursery.biz/essays/small.pdf

As you may know, there are different species of worms, and of termites, and different ideal habitat and food sources for each. And there are different methods of composting and soil management. If your soil, as in the open soil of your garden or landscape, is "packed with earthworms", and you have not introduced them, then they are probably the native worms, and you are probably doing something right, or you inherited organic matter rich soil that favors native earthworm habitat. If that is the case, then I would think that you do not need an outside source, just keep up with mulching and/or green manuring to maintain OM 3% or more if possible, which is hard to do in the tropics, but not impossible. But it appears that you are also discussing a different issue, worm composting. This uses specific species of worms like red wigglers that digest raw plant and animal waste like your kitchen garbage, in a containerized environment, not in open soil. Or African night crawlers like Biosuge/Best Garden State use, that can digest larger volumes of well mananged finished compost or mixed organic matter ingredients. I'm not an expert in worm composting, but I love using vermicompost and think its one of the best soil fertility inputs available. I have visited the Biosurge/BGS facility in Nakhon Pathom and used their product. I also buy worm castings and effluent from a large vermicompost facility connected to a cannabis grow at Mae Jo University Farm here in Chiang Mai. My NZ expat friend with an organic farm has been using red wiggler vermicompost and the liquid effluent for many years. He has a multi layer container set up with a faucet at the bottom layer for draining off the nutrient dense and beneficial-biology-rich effluent. He recently bought a couple of kilos of red wigglers from the MJU facility, to start new batch. Chosing the right kind of worms and learning the correct management methods and materials is vital for quality of the product and avoidance of odors, flys, rodents and other pests. I believe you can find a lot of information online and through Youtube videos. Maybe other memebers here have more experience than I do and can contribute some practical information. As for termites, what you describe is a curious phenomenon to me. I have done composting in several locations, for my own gardens and landscapes, mango and longan orchards, and for my customers, and not had this problem. I don't know termites that well, but the common subterranean termites, from my experience, don't usually go to living tissues of trees or to small chunks of wood or finer composting materials. They go to deadwood, stubs or heartwood-cavities on standing trees, logs or larger wood masses on the ground or buried. They do need moist soil for their subterranean nests, so they may have been taking advantage of the moisture from the compost pile and not necessarily feeding on the compost materials Ants will nest in compost piles that are not in a hot-composting stage. Could it be a mistaken identity with an ant colony and not termites?

Consider Ton Bpeep, Millingtonia hortensis (tree jasmine or Indian cork tree). Medium size evergreen tree, small leaves, gorgeous and highly fragrant when in full bloom. But to be frank, from the photos, I am concerned with your garden not being suitable for any tree other than a small-medium size palm, on more than 5 to 10 year plan. The wall, hardscape, and extremely restricted area for a tree to develop an extensive root zone, does not represent good growing conditions and ability to manage soil fertility and appropriate watering. (Which could have something to do with the existing tree being so sparse and in decline.) And then there is the risk of root encroachment and damage to the planter wall and gravel bed, which even roots from a small or medium tree will do in time. If you do decide to plant a medium size tree in the place of the existing tree, I would recommend that you install a root barrier inside the planter perimeter, 1.5 - 2 ft (45 - 60 cm) deep, rigid plastic composite or reinforced concrete/ferro-cement, to deflect lateral root growth, and give your hardscapes a few years without damage. BTW, in my opinion, I don't see much of a Japanese garden theme, except maybe the gravel bed having some resemblance to a Zen sand or gravel garden. If you could find a niwa-ki stylized pine or topiary tree, and add a water feature, then that may give some semblace to a Japanese garden feeling, and would preserve your hardscape. But you wouldn't get any shade value. Mine is just one remote opinion, I'm not there and don't know your available resources. Post your decisions and results please. Don

Build the soil and they will come. Don't build the soil and they will not survive. Favorable habitat is everything. Soil rich in organic matter content, cover cropped, shaded, mulched and without harsh chemical inputs is good habitat for earthworms. Order 1/4" screened vermicompost from Biosurge Thailand through Best Garden State on FB. (Nakhon Pathom, west of Bangkok) Organic Fertilizer Worm Winner Vermicompost from Thailand (biosurgethailand.com) "Our Vermicompost is screened to a large size of 1/4 inch- this means that there will be many worm eggs and juvenile worms in the final product..." I used this vermicompost last year, and at first I thought it wasn't effective, I didnt' see worms right away. But then after 3 or 4 months of building soil organic matter and mulching, plant growth and root exudates that help build soil structure, the latent worm population began to grow. BTW, eat high high-nutrient-density organic veggies, not the worms. You will shine and everybody will love you. Thank you for contributing to the organic sub-forum, I thought it was completely dead. Don

New book, by master regen ag educator John Kempf: Quality Agriculture: Conversations about Regenerative Agronomy with Innovative Scientists and Growers https://a.co/d/7meT3Ht "An increasing number of farmers and scientists believe the foundational ideas of mainstream agronomy are incomplete and unsound. Conventional crop production ignores biology in favor of chemical interventions, leading farmers to buy inputs they don’t need. Fertilizer recommendations keep going up, pest pressure becomes more intense, pesticide applications are needed more often, and soil health continues to degrade. However, innovative growers and researchers are beginning to think differently about production agriculture systems. They have developed practices that regenerate soil and plant health and that deliver much better results than mainstream methods. Using these principles, growers are able to decrease fertilizer applications, reduce disease and insect pressure, hold more water in the soil, improve soil health, and grow crops that are more resilient to climatic extremes, increasing farm profitability immediately. As a leading agronomist and teacher, John Kempf has implemented regenerative agricultural systems on millions of acres across many different crop types and growing regions with his team at Advancing Eco Agriculture. In Quality Agriculture, John interviews a group of growers, consultants, and scientists who describe how to think and farm differently in order to produce exceptional results in the field. Their remarkable insights will challenge you, encourage you, and inspire gratitude and joy for the rewards of working with natural systems." https://www.amazon.com/dp/1734844507/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_XDN32E955ZH43K3A8YVF_0

Doi Suthep-Pui National Park (thainationalparks.com) "The main attractions of the park are; Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Doi Pui Mountain, waterfalls, viewpoints and trails. The national park is one of the best in the country for hiking thanks to its “endless” trails throughout the park from all directions and elevations. Cycling is also very popular."

The Terracotta Garden At Lamphun สวนไม้ไทยพ่อเลี้ยงหมื่น - Home | Facebook and another Terracotts Garden Arts Garden in CM that I haven't been to. The Secret Terracotta Arts Garden in Chiang Mai - Tieland to Thailand

Any and all, there's lots to do and see outdoors, I just wanted to share some of the things I enjoy and hope others do too. Something other than bars and restaurants and shopping experiences. Regarding 700yr pool, its been clean everytime I've been there, as recently as last Saturday. Only one or two other swimmers. The weight room an old universal machines are well on their way to broken down and out of service, many dumbells have disappeared just in the last few months. The A/C treadmill and other machines room on the other side I haven't used recently. Its only open in the afternoon. The newer 50m pool at Mae Jo University is open, clean and cool with a full roof overhead. 50 baht. The bike/jog/MC path you describe runs parallel to the canal and leads all the way up to Huay Tung Tao lake park, which is another great outdoor resource. ( New bridge construction in progress at entry road). On the right side of the entry road, just past the temple, there is a parking lot for the free 4km bike/hike paved pathway circut. The lake park itself has an entry fee, I'm not sure of current prices. Besides the road around the lake with numerous pullouts, mini-parks and restaurants, at the far north end next to the forestry checkpoint at the road up the mountain (or end point to the mountain bike downhill) , there is a trailhead to a nice 2km hike to a waterfall. Hangout Like a Local at Huay Tung Tao Lake in Chiang Mai - Tieland to Thailand

Old cycling article written for Chiang Mai Mail in 2003. Some info is still good, but some is out of date. I'm not sure if the book referenced is still available. I haven't been on some of the Doi Pui cross country and downhill trails for a few years, conditions may have changed. Mt Biking with Don Lee.pdf

References for low or no cost outdoor activities, exercise and attractions. Comments, contributions, updates with current conditions welcome. 700th Anniversary Stadium - Wikipedia 50 meter swimming pool, tennis courts, jogging, cycling and other facilities. 700th Anniversary of Chiang Mai Sports Complex.pdf