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Posted

Bloody hell ClairQ 3 cars 3 tax 3 insurance so I'm a poorly paid teacher is obviously not applicable any morewhistling.giflaugh.png

Well, the other two are being used by other persons, and there is no net cost to me on those for the time being, kartman. ;)

Posted

he's going to also change the timing belt before I buy it, but I did agree to pay for that upgrade - he quoted 1,800 baht for the complete job, parts and labor. Is that reasonable or unreasonable?

I'd say it's reasonable because I paid 1,000 for the belt and the bearing (bought from Worachak), then 800 for labor. The Peugeot mechanics wanted 2,800 for everything.

Posted

One of those TIT stories - as is nearly always the case in Thailand, when buying a used car, it takes a week or three longer than you might expect with a 'first world' mindset. In this case the 'wealthy rice mill owner' to whom the car is titled is 'at his Bangkok residence' for the time being, rather than his local one, and thus we'll just have to wait for him to come to sign the title and papers over whenever. I'm told next week, but not holding my breath. I must say I do feel no doubt as to the eventual outcome - another TIT fact: if you are extremely patient, things will always come out successfully in the long, long run. But you have to be very, very patient.

Posted

Thanks Nelson.

By the way, the mechanic took a look at the timing belt and found it to 'look like brand new', so advised against changing it. In addition, I do feel (now that the shift lever is working fine) that the clutch itself seems quite heavy, and engages too suddenly (rather than smoothly), and a bit too near the floor. I suppose it could be many things, from needing a new clutch or hydraulic cylinders, to needing the clutch fluid 'bled' and replaced. Don't know much about it, but due to this problem the car is pleasant to drive on the highway, but not so pleasant around town in stop-and-go.

Posted

... I have one ...

phil2, do you have any advice about the power windows and locks? On mine, I'm now convinced the engine, gearbox, and clutch are all OK, but the windows and locks are a big mess: the two front windows do go up and down, albeit a bit 'binding' near the top, while one back window will hardly move (due to weak motor and/or binding?), and the other doesn't work at all.

Finally the power locks don't work, but 3 door's locks will work manually, while one simply won't lock at all, which is a little bit of a security issue.

Posted (edited)

Thanks Nelson.

By the way, the mechanic took a look at the timing belt and found it to 'look like brand new', so advised against changing it. In addition, I do feel (now that the shift lever is working fine) that the clutch itself seems quite heavy, and engages too suddenly (rather than smoothly), and a bit too near the floor. I suppose it could be many things, from needing a new clutch or hydraulic cylinders, to needing the clutch fluid 'bled' and replaced. Don't know much about it, but due to this problem the car is pleasant to drive on the highway, but not so pleasant around town in stop-and-go.

If the clutch needs bleeding, you will need to push the pedal a further than normal, it may cause grinding due to not enough movement. If it is very stiff it may have rust on the bearing or cylinders (not that likely) or the spring plate may have aged badly due to being sat for so long or the cylinder seals have failed.

Any car that has sat for a long time is likely to have problems with rubber and plastic parts and parts of steel that need to flex. In Thailand with the weather rubber and plastic suffer anyway, but after sitting for 5 years in this heat rubber parts will be screwed. Seals, tyres, boots, pipes. Plus wiring as well.

The gearbox problem could well be the rubber remote control mounts which I think you said have been replaced, The clutch may well be the cylinder seals. The tyres will really need replacing, but most of all check the steering rack boots and rod end covers, failure of these could well be dangerous. You should check all suspension joint covers.

Edited by arthurwait
Posted

Saying that after a google it turns out the 405 clutch is cable operated, not hydraulic. So look for a frayed cable and check to see if the arm is stiff due to rust, maybe even the pedal bearing. Or if the cable is stretching.

Posted

Saying that after a google it turns out the 405 clutch is cable operated, not hydraulic. So look for a frayed cable and check to see if the arm is stiff due to rust, maybe even the pedal bearing. Or if the cable is stretching.

Or the pressure plate is well past it's sell by date.

Posted

Well today I had my first big adventure in the 405 - I drove an hour away, and back late at night. The good news is: I made it! Other good news... the car ran at precisely the same engine temp the entire trip - just right at 77-78 degrees C. The steering tracked straight and true down the highway, and the car used surprisingly little fuel - maybe 10% of the fuel tank.

The bad news was as follows: 1) the car died a few times in town during throttle-off deceleration after I had driven one hour on the highway. Always started right back up and didn't lose too much drive-ability. 2) just as I arrived back home (in the rain), the battery light came on. Only time will tell if its alternator, battery, or my theory of the moment - something rain-related like wet connections under the hood or something like this.

  • 1 year later...

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