AllanB

I rode a PCX for a short while, it looks as though it should be very comfortable and was quiet and smooth, but I found it wearing on a long trip, say after 3/4 hour in the saddle. It was my mates bike and he found it useless 2 up (150kg combined), constantly bottoming out, again it looked capable but just wasn't. He sold it after a couple of months, so both of us found it disappointing, our 110cc Wave has never bottomed out even with 2 up and a ton of shopping, so there is a flaw with the PCX.

As for messing around with 1 second of braking and 6 seconds of brake cooling, yes, that is really handy in an emergency, this is not the 1950's, mountain roads and rubber bands don't mix.

It ain't that difficult using gears and 125cc is enough power.........

Well a call to always be alert...what is that saying expect nothing but be prepared for everything... Takes the fun out of riding... yet this mantra could one day save your life.

If you think it is fun to take risks around these things, go for it mate. The fun I get from riding is being out in the fresh air, not dueling with things much bigger than me. When I encounter traffic, yes I am 100% alert to everything, I know "might is right" and this thread further brings that home to me.

This is a resurrection of a well argued thread, so why not argue the case for not taking on a big rig like this in the first place, instead of speculating what helmet would have done what? Otherwise we could go through all the old threads and just repeat.

I get cut up every single day in Thailand, it is a way of life and protestation is a waste of time here, though I still do it from time to time. But knowing all that makes me alert and safe®, not thinking that I have top gear on and will probably be okay when I get creamed. To me that means I have to choose my accident.

Hence the need for decent mirrors and anything else that will help me avoid a crash, like this or any other.

I am not saying it is wrong wearing top gear, especially when you like taking risks and enjoying that particular part of biking, just not my thing, that's all.

^

Did you click on the link? The rider in question posted a picture of his injury, which was to his forehead- it's is an area that's protected by the type of helmet I choose to wear, and it's an injury that would have been lessened or avoided entirely by a proper helmet. The answer to your question is obviously 'yes'.

Yes I did and perhaps you are right, I am no expert in that field of analysis, the point I am making is about the importance of mirrors as I wouldn't want to test my helmet to find out.

All the scary moments I have had in my 7 years over here have been from vehicles behind me and I have found it very difficult to find decent mirrors here, especially in their positions on the bike. The stems are always too short, I don't have "Arni" shoulders but half of what I see is myself, meaning I have look around myself to get a good rear view. Result, most of my peripheral vision related to the rear is lost.

As a car driver I use my mirrors a lot and it is especially important on a bike to keep me clear of these people before they get right up my arse and pose a threat. And unlike some here I am not prepared to ride faster than everyone else just in case......

For me this is a wake up call to reinforce one of the dangers of biking, just how important mirrors are and how bad mine are. I need to get up of my Songkran arse and get them changed, instead of looking at my shoulders all the time.

I think it is completely pointless attributing blame after the event, using webcams ha ha, how is it going to change anything? Truck drivers have a job to do, with or without Yaba, or booze and as a biker you are of NO importance. Meaning, you have to look after yourself...or this may happen.

Thanks for that GW....oh as for the helmet issue, is a helmet that important when you get hit by something that size? Refer Hammond's helmet in Top Gear Vietnam.

The question was for quality , not quantity .

The answer to both questions in Thailand is "Honda". And the main reason for the answer to the second question is the answer to the first question. QED.

In a recent Consumer Reports survey of 12,300 US motorcycle owners, the following ranking for "owner satisfaction" was found:

"Impacting overall satisfaction and reflecting reliability, we saw cost of maintenance and repair be a satisfaction issue with BMW, Can-Am, Ducati, and Harley.

Owner satisfaction

Brand Would definitely buy again

Victory 80%

Harley-Davidson 72

Honda 70

BMW 68

Can-Am 67

Ducati 66

Yamaha 65

Triumph 63

Kawasaki 59

Suzuki 58 "

I doubt that Harley would get as high marks from owners here in Thailand, but they are a loyal (and irrational) lot to be sure, and even with a high owner satisfaction rating, Harley, BMW and Ducati have noted maintenance and high cost of repair problems. And I don't think that Victory is available in Thailand, so that would put Honda at the top of the ranking if it was done here in Thailand, where IMO it belongs without question (both for reliability and overall satisfaction). Interestingly, Suzuki is dead last, which IMO is where it belongs.

I think Harley owners go for the buzz they get........."buzz" as in vibration and their GF's (if they have one) don't need a spin dryer.

There are quite a few round the world bikers who ride Suzuki's, so can't be that bad.

The worst (Phantom) and best (Wave) bikes I have ever owned (reliability wise) have both been Hondas, both made in Thailand.

Allan, we will never be able to consider you as a serious rider with an attitude like this. The CB300 is made for performance riding. And you have to permanently improve your riding skills and work on your body positioning. This has nothing to do with racing. Its for your own safety. Please consider this! We have to keep this forum on its high level. Riding is not just for having fun!

Pictures of pegs and levers please, best with a tape measure visible for comparison

Anyone will tell you I am the most serious rider on this forum, I religiously put my knee down on every corner and change my titanium strips every week ..and I never swear like all the other insulting mother BLEEP... BLEEP, BLEEP, test tickles, neither.

If I am comfortable on a bike, I will suffer less fatigue, maintain better concentration and subsequently be a better rider, but if I am cramped, that will occupy my mind instead of the road ahead...and behind...and I will do what I don't wanna do...fall off. Also I will hate the damn thing.

My missus has run off with the milkman Wave this morning, so will have to wait, plus I have to pick a monk up from the bus station ,... but will take some pictures later. I want to find out whether my prowess as Britain's number two engineer (after Isambard Kingdom Brunnel) is under question.

Ever thought about trading in your bikes for a car or pickup? Might suit you better.

I have an Isuzu pickup, boring as kcuf, why do you think I ride a big bike?

So it's a case of riding a dangerous bike and living a bit longer......

How about a nice 1983 Honda NV400 shaft drive? fantastic bike with one careful owner (all the others were reckless) I would take 235k for mine and even throw in a secondhand (greasy inside) crash hat and an oil drip tray.

Or buy a brand new CB500 and have some money left over.

If you are getting back into biking after a long break, ride slower especially in LOS, you are in a bad category.

Thanks for your expression of concern, but I already put about 700 to 800K on a bicycle over the last year, and I've been riding friend's scooters quite a bit recently as well, so I think my proficiency on two wheels is pretty good again. And I should mention that I have absolutely no intention of riding beyond my ability, regardless of the capabilities the machine underneath me! I'm well aware of the dangers, and I think this is why I've been carefully pondering the idea for the last 6 months rather than diving in and buying something.

I wasn't having a dig old chap, just remember a program on UK TV a while back about guys returning to biking after a long break, you mentioned a million years, so I thought that was quite long. Something about your paunch resting on the tank too.........

You should ABSOLUTELY go back to proper biking IMO and Thailand is fine provided you have an extra set of eyes transplanted into the back of your head. So I/we look forward to hearing about what you settle upon, what you do and where you go........

How about a nice 1983 Honda NV400 shaft drive? fantastic bike with one careful owner (all the others were reckless) I would take 235k for mine and even throw in a secondhand (greasy inside) crash hat and an oil drip tray.

Or buy a brand new CB500 and have some money left over.

If you are getting back into biking after a long break, ride slower especially in LOS, you are in a bad category.

Allan, we will never be able to consider you as a serious rider with an attitude like this. The CB300 is made for performance riding. And you have to permanently improve your riding skills and work on your body positioning. This has nothing to do with racing. Its for your own safety. Please consider this! We have to keep this forum on its high level. Riding is not just for having fun!

Pictures of pegs and levers please, best with a tape measure visible for comparison

Anyone will tell you I am the most serious rider on this forum, I religiously put my knee down on every corner and change my titanium strips every week ..and I never swear like all the other insulting mother BLEEP... BLEEP, BLEEP, test tickles, neither.

If I am comfortable on a bike, I will suffer less fatigue, maintain better concentration and subsequently be a better rider, but if I am cramped, that will occupy my mind instead of the road ahead...and behind...and I will do what I don't wanna do...fall off. Also I will hate the damn thing.

My missus has run off with the milkman Wave this morning, so will have to wait, plus I have to pick a monk up from the bus station ,... but will take some pictures later. I want to find out whether my prowess as Britain's number two engineer (after Isambard Kingdom Brunnel) is under question.

I think it's a great idea, I could go out riding with you guys on my Wave then........"SEE YOU SUCKERS!!!!!!"

I would have thought it would depend on what bike you are riding and what you are doing at the time. It would make sense to be on the balls of your feet while off-roading to absorb the bumps, or on a racing bike for better control and balance (I guess). But the CB300 is neither of these and I won't be racing, so I will not be riding like that and as a prospective buyer, it is all about me.

Now for the rub,,,,(cough cough!) I looked at a CB300 at another dealer in KK today (the cheeky bugga wants 135k baht) and the pegs appear to be different, they are bigger and if I didn't know better they are further back from the lever ends. So I will have to go back to the original dealer with a tape measure and check. I have ridden a CBR250 before and managed to change gear before without recalling that as a problem..

Will let you know but certainly this one was okay for me, with a full 5" between peg and lever end. Maybe the other one had a fault, or a modification??

Which is what exactly?

Am I missing something here----- I had the same problem with a Phantom and just moved the gear lever one or two serrations up on the splined drive.Surely you can do the same and it takes literally a couple of minutes----Dougal

I had a Phantom and that had lots of space between peg and lever bar, as it was a "cruiser" style machine.

I assume that you are proposing adjusting the lever so that the end is slightly raised, allowing the foot to be inserted more easily? But that surely creates another problem, with the end of the gearshift now higher than the peg, I will have my foot resting on the gearshift the whole time and going over a bump, I am likely to inadvertently change down. Or I must ride with my foot under the gearshift, possibly trapping my foot in the event of an accident.

Or am I missing something?

The problem is the gap between the peg and the end bar, it is quite difficult to get my toe through the gap. My foot must be at quite an acute angle for it to fit through and under. I plan on using this bike in the town traffic, leaving the Wave for the Mrs, so lots of shifting.

Leaving the Wave to one side as this has a heel shift too for going down, my NV 400 is easy, I leave my foot under the shift until I reach O/D, or whatever gear is I need and then ride with my foot on top. The NV has at least 5" between peg and bar, whereas the CB has only about 3"

I have just noticed too that the peg/rubber is much bigger/longer on the NV, so may maybe I go around and under, rather than lifting my foot and poking my toe through. but I certainly put my arches on the pegs, rather than toes, which is much more relaxing.

Anyway I get the message and maybe after a proper test ride, all will be revealed.

Thanks for the comments.........

Yes you will get used to it after a little while.

So how did you find the CB300 to ride otherwise?

I haven't ridden one yet, they don't have demo machines in Khon Kaen, so the plan is to hire one in Chaing Mai and do the Mai Hong Song Loop, that autta test it. Just sitting on it, well it is by means perfect, but I keep coming back to it, as there is nothing else, certainly not at the price, which is extremely low for a Jap bike.

So I guess I will have to do a couple of simple mods, as I plan on buying boots and there is now way they will fit.. not expensive and reversible, by buying a new gearshift.

Unlike cars and pushbikes everything is fixed on a motorbike, in a car/bike I can adjust the seat, even steering wheel/handlbars to make it fit, but on a M/C you have to try and find a model that fits you. With all these bikes built for smaller Asians and me being a lanky bar-steward, with big plates, it is a problem.

Its very dangerous out there.

Over the next few months I recommend wearing only the following;

1. Full face helmet with the visor down.
2. Good Motor bike gloves.
3. Crocs
4. No pants (that includes boxers or Y fronts none)
5. No shirt
6. A target on your helmet and back painted in pink.

This will provide the protection needed when navigating the streets of BKK during the next month.

Are you the same bloke, who wears incontinence pants filled with ice cubes? Or rides around with his flies undone and legs up on the handle bars?

If so, do you have a website for this stuff?

Do some exercise to build your strength.

Or maybe a surgeon could trim your toes back some.

What does strength have to do with it, there isn't enough room to get my toes quickly and comfortably underneath the lever?

I think a simple extension to the lever is slightly easier than a foot shortening/thinning exercise and then I would have to have my left shoe altered, no no, it's all too difficult. Stupid idea Papa.....

I ride my NV quite comfortably and even the Wave his okay, although it does have a heel bar, just surprised no one else has found this to be a problem on a CB/CBR300 at least and don't think 44/45 (US11.5 to 12) is particularly big for a farang's feet. Plus armoured boots would be even bulkier.

Checking out a Honda CB300 today, I have size 45 feet (UK 11) and even with shoes on find it really difficult to change up and not that easy to change down, since the levers are so short.

Now I guess most of you safety conscious guys are wearing bikers boots riding these bikes, which are somewhat bulkier than my leather shoes, so how do you manage?

If I buy this bike I will certainly have to have the gear shift modified, which isn't difficult, but haven't heard any mention of it here.

I don't ride much in the rain (chicken), but when I do I ride slowly and mostly use the rear brake, or better still just the throttle. Rightly or wrongly I wanted and got drum brakes on the Wave, as they lock up less easily, especially in the wet. Being aware that my braking is less effective than other bikes fitted with discs, makes my driving more defensive too.

I would choose drums over discs any day on a small bike for that better "feel"...plus they are simpler and cheaper too. In terms of braking I have never had a single problem in 7 years of riding here, so figure I am right. However, on the Phantom which I only rode for a year and had discs, I had at least 2 front wheel lock ups, albeit controllable ones.

I changed it at 18K only because I took it in to change the oil at a hole in the wall shop and asked them to oil and adjust the chain. They told me they couldn't adjust it properly because the sprocket and chain needed to be replaced. No idea if that was true but they seemed honest and it was cheap enough so I told them to go ahead......

Inability to adjust indicates excessive chain wear. You adjust in a position, then it's too tight or slack in another.

It is quite easy to determine when a chain is finished with the rattly noise it makes (even after a lube), where the teeth become too big for the rollers. If you check the fit you can see that too, there is a gap and slop between chain and rollers.

With the quality of chain fitted/sold here the 20k km mark seems to about right, unless you are ham fisted with the throttle, gear shifting, or towing a caravan, when 10k may be more appropriate.

As rickley said, if in any doubt, change the chain/sprockets, it costs only a few baht and will save you a fortune in gearbox/bearing damage, as will over-tightening a chain, which some shops like to do here.

I do the same with brake shoes, let them get too low and it will cost a lot more than the ridiculous 100 baht for the shoes.

These are all such poultry sums, so who cares if the repair guy is lying, just have it done with the piece of mind that it is good for another 1 or 2 years. Where else are you going to get 2 years of reliable transport for a couple of squid?

That's what I like about the Wave, none of this stuff is expensive, you spend 34,000baht on a new bike and after 10 years you buy another....and go up to 200 miles on a gallon of cheapo gasahol and 70km on a litre is cheaper than walking.

entropy

More likely microporosity.

I was thinking:

1. Oil change

2. Air filter

3. Spark plug

4. Shocks

5. Brakes

There is a bunch of stuff even on a small bike that you may want to check occasionally.

steering pipe correct tightening

valve clearance

fork lubricant

chain slack, greasing and get a self lubricated one.

swingarm pivot greasing

spoked rims tightening

general bolt tightening

Chain slack yes, but this is a Honda Wave, leave the damn thing alone, it will run forever, just keep an eye open.

Chain greasing, a self lubricating one? This has a chain guard, check it whenever it seems a bit too slack, you can feel it clearly, then spray it at the same time and replace the bung. We got over 20,000k out of the chain (75% of the time 2 up, plus shopping at times) and then it cost just a few baht for the whole set.

The only regular check is tyre pressures and if you use a streetside man, take a pressure gauge and readjust. Never understand why bike pressures drop here...osmosis?

I would replace the tires (and tubes?) after 8 years. And i wouldnt let them touch the shocks unless there is a problem. Better replace the brake fluid for front brake too (if you have a disc brake in front). So far your list sounds good, just remove the shocks (imo).

The reason I bought BOR, (bottom of the range) 34,000baht....No Hydraulics/brake fluid to worry about and no electrics start/battery. KISS and 5 years of trouble free biking, expect that again and again. One pair of tyres (now extra wide) and one chain/sprockets, oh I upgraded headlight bulb to halogen, huge improvement for 100baht....a real sod to fit though.

I have a BOR 5 year old Honda Wave, drum brakes, kick start with 22k on the clock, changed the chain and sprockets a few weeks ago, so same as you.

I take it to a local guy who changes the oil every year and every 2 years or so check and change shoes, usually have a lot of meat left, but very cheap, so do it anyway.

It still has the original plug, but occasionally requires two kicks, so will change that later this year, or more likely just clean it.

You will know when the shocks are going, so far all's well.

Forgot about the air filter so will check that next time.

Never missed a beat in it's life and still looks and feels brand new, ride it every day often two up, never thrash it.

Don't worry about it.

OK so I removed the belt cover and found the area covered in transmission oil, leaking from the input shaft seal, this either was not replaced or was damaged in the original rebuild of the rear gearbox. Although I checked the oil level occasionally all I was seeing was a little residue on the dip stick, causing me to believe there was oil in the gear box.

It was not completely dry of oil so maybe there is some hope it will be ok.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

I would agree with that, although it will shorten the life of the gearbox and may still make a little noise, a new oil seal and fill up should do the job.

Good luck

PS Check the oil level regularly for a few weeks following this repair, it has been know for Thai mechanics to screw up the fitting of an oil seal, or the seating may have been damaged.