Bosscat

I wonder how watertight they are as water would just sit on the top. A small amount of water gets into my Carryboy ... and yes I wouldn't buy another Carryboy!

I have the raitonlock roller cover on my Wildtrack and yes it also leaks. Yet to test a full storm but the installation requires the use of silicone along the sides. As mentioned above there were also four drain pipes installed which allow for water on top of the cover to be drained underneath. If I know what I know now I wouldn't have installed it but then again if you want to keep the Wildtrack rear bar and side rails there aren't any other options (to my knowledge) available locally.

Thanks for the responses David, IMHO and kamalabob2.

That Australian product is exactly what I want and very cheap on the ground there. Not sure what it would be worth here landed but I am guessing about 3 to 4 times at least (after tax and freight) and a bit of a wait while it transits here.

I will look into the chancon product to see if the is a dealer in Petchabun Province. Thanks IMHO.

That's a nice set up you have kamalabob2. Looks like a very professional installation.

Aco have told me that they don't have a Distributor in Thailand and rather ship out of Australia. They will send a quote for air and sea freight, but like the Bunnings option I think it will probably end up to expensive and too long a wait versus a local option.

Will do Morakot.

Still waiting on a response from Aco but also hoping one of the members has seen it somewhere in Thailand.

Thanks splitlid.

Yes I did find that one and sent an email to the Head Office in Australia yesterday to get the contact details for the Thai distributor.

The havent responded yet (still ealy days I guess) but I was also hoping there might be another choice if this one doesnt come off.

And a pic of one installed.

Here is another pic. The grate is about 15cm wide and I recall maybe it come in 2 or 3m lengths.

Have been hunting everywhere for this product but cant find it yet.

Its made out of plastic, which appeals to me as it wont rust and less likely to go walking.

Has anyone seen it here in Thailand?

I saw it in Thai Watsadu in Bangkok yesterday and last week at their branch in Petchaboon.....so I assume its stocked at all their stores.

Well done in managing to hold out Mark. How long was the wait. Please let us know first impressions.

The missus picks up the new chilli 3.2 on Tuesday and is picking me up from the airport in it on Thursday, been a looong wait but I am really glad I did not crimp at the end, I now feel like a kid on Xmas eve......

The missus picks up the new chilli 3.2 on Tuesday and is picking me up from the airport in it on Thursday, been a looong wait but I am really glad I did not crimp at the end, I now feel like a kid on Xmas eve......

I am giving this thread a bump becuase like thousands of others I have a long wait ahead of me for my 3.2 Wildtrak and I would like to hear that some people are taking delivery. Whats the wait time now...still plus 12 months or has anyone found a way to shorten this? If so please share or PM me as the wait is killing me. And I would pay for the right option.

Is this the classified section or the motor forum???

I ordered a new Ford Ranger at the beginning of November (before the last motor show), and they have STILL not given me a delivery date. Rumours are that if I am really lucky, I might get it before Songkran, but that's over five months.

And they are even made in Rayong!

I also ordered at the same time (a 3.3) but I am 100% certain it wont come before Songkran. I will be lucky if we see it before the next motor show.

When I rang the Dealer this morning to check again on the status of my delivery I was asked if I had been to the motor show to see what else was on offer.

So I guess staff are also pissed off which doesnt help in the short term.

The only positive about attending the Motor Show this evening was that there was no 3.2 Wildtrak on show and they are not taking new orders.

The negative was that was also nothing else of real interest in this category. Lets hope Toyota steps up soon with its new model overhall (not facelift) that kills this arogance and Fords focus on the export dollars

If the new 2014 Hilux looked anything like the Toyota Tundra in the US that would be sweet

There is also a running thread on Dash Cams here >>

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/558222-dash-cam/page-2?hl=%2Bdash+%2Bcam#entry6195450

I've done a bit of research and will get the BlackVue DR400G-HD II and the Power Magic Pro to connect it to my car battery directly.

On your advice I looked at the BlackVue and agree it appears to be a good one. I found a thread on installation and configaration which has a lot of useful information.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16300

I will also order one of these. Did you buy your unit over the internet or in Thailand?

Thanks for the responses here and I will certainly update once I make a decision on the pump. I spoke with the Mitsubishi rep at the Homeworks show at Biteck last week and he indicated there is a new 500w pump coming on the market which is very quiet. It will be released at the Home Pro show this month at Impact. He had it as a demo and it was noticeably quieter. This could be an option as noise will be an issue in a closed condo environment. Just need to be sure I don't go overkill and pull everyone else's capacity in the condo building but I don't think this should be an issue if the pump is pressure limited on the output side.

quitter. Meanwhile reno has started on the condo with ceilings and tiling almost all out. I will post a separate thread on this one sharing my experience as things go along.

Thanks Guys. There is some very useful information here from people who know a lot more about the subject than me. I am truly grateful.

Pib - I looked at the fuse box and there isn't a separate label for hot water so its difficult for me to tell how many amps the current system has. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be working either so I cant do random isolation to eliminate which one it is. I did notice that there were some 40 amp fuses but I will wait until I get an electrician in for the broader rewiring work and check then.

Doglover - You make a good suggestion re inspection of the current wider system in the building. I will do that to see what I am up against.

Asiacheese - Good point on pump size. I may be better isolating problems with the main supply via a small tank. I have a small spot right above the main and this might be good future insurance.

In terms of electrical surprises I saw first hand what you guys are talking about today. The condo I am going to renovate had the kitchen replaced about 6 years ago but it was obviously a cheap project. Here is what I uncovered today when I pulled it out:

1. patched wiring with electrical tape - no proper connections - maybe this is standard for Thailand renovations.

2. the range hood had no tape on one of the live wires - not the yellow and green wire.

3. the sink waste pipe wasn't connected properly to the main waste in the floor and severe wet rot was starting to set in underneath the cupboards.

4. the range hood ducting wasn't connected to the range hood yet it had been installed to look like it had in that the ducting work had a vent on the balcony. They hadn't even cut a hole in the cupboard inside.

I guess you need to check and double check during installation and make sure you pick good trades (not that easy though) and hold back on payment as much as you can until you get comfortable

Thanks Pib

I dont know on the amperage that is supplied. All I know is there is 220 volts.

Guess I could enquire at the front desk but other than that how do I determine and if its a bit technical is it safe to assume a certain minimum?

In selecting a heater you need to first determine how much amperage the circuit powering the heater can safely provide. A 6000 watt heater will draw approx 27 amps at 220 volts....a 7500 water heater will draw approx 34 amps....at 3000 watt heater will draw approx 14 amps. I have two Fogor (German design/made) 6000 watt heaters which currently cost about 7000 baht at HomePro when not on promotion....have had them approx 2.5 years with no real problems...they are on 30 amp dedicated circuits. One heater did pop some internal breakers one time when I got an air bubble in the water line which caused the heater to quickly "overheat" due to no water going through the heating elements for a few seconds...but reseting those internal breakers made everything OK again... other than this one problem, which was not really a heater problem (heaters worked as designed) but a brief water supply/line problem due to the air bubble, have had no other problems with these heaters....good heaters.

Regarding the max pressure a heater can handle and heater inlet/outlet ports, don't worry about that as everyone I've seen has standard 1/2'' inlet/outlet ports and 40psi or higher pressure is fine. But having too little pressure which means low water flow volume "can" cause a problem, because most heaters require a minimum flow of 1 liter per minute though the heating elements to prevent overheating/overload which will cause circuit breaker to pop and/or damage the heating elements. Most heaters have flow sensors to cut themselves off if the flow is inadequate...the Fogor models I have have the flow sensors.

The most important thing is as mentioned in my first sentence. Also be sure your heater circuit/hookup has a grounding wire....and I"m not talking using the neutral wire as a safety ground substitute...I'm talking that third wire used for a safety/case ground. Good luck.

Thanks Pib and trogers. This is really useful.

Will test the pressure first to understand what I have and if I do put a tank it will be fairly small.

Everybody on this site seems to be mention the Mitsubishi pumps but I couldn't find an english reference site to read up about them. The mitsubishi home page on pumps was very light on.

For the heater do you have any recommendations for my situation? As the Mitsubishi pump mentioned has a specific on/ cut off capacity I am guessing as long as the heater inlet is half inch and can handle a flow of close to 40psi I should be fairly close with those specs also quoting a temp of say 45/50c degrees. But how do I spec this out in actual quoted heater specs? Thxs

The only real need for a tank is to ensure your pump has enough water to pump. If the condo utilizes a tank and you have always had adequate water volume but just at low pressure, then you may just want to get a pump. And actually for your water volume needs but to ensure you still get a average water pressure of 35psi, a WP205Q or EP205Q would provide the 35psi and use 50 watts less power. The WP255Q just has more volume capability but the same pressure output as a WP/EP205Q. When dropping below the 205Q model numbers you are getting into the average 23psi pressure area and less water volume capability (i.e., can use less faucets/water outlets at once). You may want to buy yourself a water pressure gauge at a hardware store at around 150 baht and check what your current water pressure it....if it's around 23psi then a WP/EP205 ain't going to help your situation. As mentioned, this assumes your problem is not also low water volume and pressure because too many people in the condo are sharing the water line...in this case, you would need a separate tank to have your own extra water capacity/supply so to speak. Good luck.

I have read a number of posts on this site about low water pressure in houses but I haven't been able to find anything on condo's. The pressure in my condo (unmeasured) is what I would describe as low to low medium but as I am renovating top to bottom and enjoy a strong shower I want to take the option to re-look at this.

Some of the posts talk about reliable supply and in a stand alone house that can be impacted by many things. In my situation my main concern is also supply but more particularly the fact that I cant influence availability of water at the source.

So a couple of questions:

1. Can I attach a water pressure system with small tank to the main on the balcony and not impact other unit owners and enjoy and increased volume?

2. If so and recognising water heaters also have pressure valves/ restrictors does anyone have any ideas on compatible heaters for my application that will allow reasonable flow.

The unit is 2BR - kitchen, three toilets, laundry and two showers.

2. If so (and recognising water heaters also have Mitsubishi Water Pump model WP-255Q2