Scoop1
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Posts posted by Scoop1
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22 minutes ago, ireckonso said:
Why is it useless ? Same forum and topic just a different name. I am not a fan of aquaponics but I know many people are, so I think they should have some room to post too.
Very true , and I did not say they shouldn't have somewhere to post , but two pinned topics would be much better, and they are not the same , one is hydroponics and the other is aquaponics , two vastly different topics in my belief and a lot of posters at the time would have preferred it that way , and as I have said previously there is a lot of excellent information on the "hydroponics" thread that not many people know of because not many people post on it so it disappears into the wilderness , to me that seems to be a waste.
Cheers
Scoop
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On 12/22/2019 at 12:05 PM, ireckonso said:
Never been a big fan of aquaponics. I think you should either grow fish or plants, trying to keep both growing together is too difficult without a lot of automation and even then it is so easy to kill off one or the other. Trying to keep the system balanced to make it viable is a lot of work.
Yes we did have a dedicated forum on hydroponics but as you can see it was merged with aquaponics which is useless and now very few posters read it and it has lots of useful information , I have no interest in it so I would rather not have to sift through lots of posts I am not interested in
Cheers
Scoop
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On 10/1/2019 at 5:58 AM, gk10002000 said:
How is the pollination in Thailand? In the USA pretty much I assume is done by Bees albeit with a little help from a few other insects buzzing around between plants.
Good morning gk , a cheap battery operated tooth brush is an excellent pollinator
Cheers
Scoop
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On 12/10/2019 at 5:38 PM, Grumpy John said:
Thanks for posting that link. It solves the problem of why my Gross Lisse are never any good! Now to make a frame for shade cloth to block off some that hot hot sun around the middle of the day.
Hi Grumpy John , I mostly grow Grosse Lisse , but just make sure you get the correct shading for an example if you get 50% shade cloth , you will only get that level of shading if it is black or dark green , beige and white will only give you about 35% and if you get 30% shade cloth the same rule applies .
Cheers
Scoop
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Morning , they all look very healthy Rice , you must know what you are doing , 555
Cheers
Scoop
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2 hours ago, Scoop1 said:
Good morning , this my help you guys understand a little about the light requirements of a tomato plant its an old post in the original hydroponic section on here , which has enormous amounts of information in it and I believe should have been a pinned topic instead of combining aquaponics with it.
Light and the Humble Tomato Plant
By Scoop1, January 15, 2014 in Farming in Thailand Forum
Sorry , this might work
Cheers
Scoop1
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On 10/1/2019 at 5:48 AM, rice555 said:
I've lived in Korat almost 20 years now. only on TV since 06. Will be transplanting Homestead and
Pink Berkeley Tie-Dye, both OP's and Margherita VF Hyb. The Pink and the Hyb. are from TGS in FL. and the Homestead from Sustainable Seed Co. in CA.
rice555
most of my tom growing are in hydroponic threads here in the main FF.
Hi Rice , hope you are well , and looks like your toms are doing very nicely
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On 3/5/2014 at 10:16 PM, khunkeith said:
It's not the heat, it's the intensity of the sun that can kill western tomatoes. Mine have been doing great. well, until about a week ago as we approach the vernal equinox. The sun is getting more intense day by day and my plants are suffering greatly. I have 17 big boy and beefsteak tomato plants grown with seeds from the US. I learned my lesson though, I removed the shading when they started producing fruit and have had a bumper crop. But, about 2 weeks ago, they showed signs of stress (I guess from the sun) and are dying. next time, I will replace the covering shade mid February and see if I can keep them producing longer.
Good morning , this my help you guys understand a little about the light requirements of a tomato plant its an old post in the original hydroponic section on here , which has enormous amounts of information in it and I believe should have been a pinned topic instead of combining aquaponics with it.
Light and the Humble Tomato Plant
By Scoop1, January 15, 2014 in Farming in Thailand Forum
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Good morning all , rice555 , how is everything going at the moment have you got plenty of produce growing ?
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all , how are you doing Rice ? what have you got growing at the moment
Cheers
Scoop
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On 12/12/2016 at 11:32 PM, Arkady said:
The picture in the OP's post is almost certainly an airsoft gun and these are freely available in Thailand without the US requirement of having an orange tip (after some black teenagers were shot by police there for holding airsoft Glocks). I have seen airsoft versions of heavy machine guns in stores in Thailand that look just like the real thing.
War weapons, i.e. real versions of the gun in the OP's post like M16s, AR15s firing centre fire cartridges etc cannot be licensed for civilian use. However, versions of these weapons that look the same and are the same size but fire rimfire cartridges can be licensed. These are normally chambered in .22lr. You can see a lot of M16 style guns chambered in .22lr in store windows in Wang Burapha. They are semi-auto as full auto is not allowed for civilians.
Civilians in Thailand may also own bolt action rifles in military calibres, such as .308 Win (NATO 7.62mm) or .223 Rem (NATO 5.56mm). As someone pointed out earlier in the thread, the NATO equivalent cartridges, also used by the Thai military, are almost the same and can be fired in these guns, although the pressures may be somewhat different. In fact, according to Thai firearms law, civilians are allowed to own handguns and rifles under .50 calibre. Some Thai civilians own .338 Lapua Magnum rifles similar to the type that are now issued to some US military snipers for ranges out to 1,500 metres. The ammo for these is hugely expensive and scarce in Thailand though - think about B850 a round. Handguns up to including .44 magnum and .45 ACP are allowed and commonly available in the stores, although the .44 magnum ammo is a bit scare and expensive. Rifles that fire pistol ammunition, e.g. lever action Marlins and Henries in .357 magnum and .44 magnum are also allowed and commonly available.
There is no requirement in Thai law for a gun permit application to go before a committee or for an applicant to show a certain level of assets, as some have suggested here. However, those living in the provinces may be asked to show things like title deeds. This is not a legal requirement but local officials making up their own regulations. You will never be asked for details of property or assets, if you apply in Bangkok where applications are handled by the Interior Ministry which is responsible for enforcing firearms laws. The process is quite straightforward in Bangkok. You either tick all the right boxes or you don't. There is nothing in the law that says foreigners are ineligible to own firearms but Bangkok has usually only issued them to PRs or embassy officials. Licensing authorities in the provinces often refuse to issue to foreigners at all.
I have posted this for information about gun laws and availability only. I have no interest in entering a debate about gun control.
Thanks for that information Arkady, I asked about the shooting sports in the sports section but never got a reply, I have two target rifles and 3 hunting rifles all centrefire and was wondering if I could bring them with me when I come to live in Thailand and compete at benchrest competitions and 1000 yard competitions .
Do you know of any ranges that accommodate those disciplines?
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all, hereinthailand, we have already tried to get that happening a few years back, one pinned topic for Hydroponics and one for Aquaponics but it fell on deaf ears, I and many other posters thought it was definitely needed.
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all, rice 555, this is a pic of the tomato's I have taken off some of the bottom trusses , the EC is at EC 5.0 and I will leave it at that level until crop is finished, the increased "Dry Matter Content" is as good as it gets, the taste is also superb
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all
On 12/13/2016 at 2:01 AM, rice555 said:Hello All, very nice looking Scoop, is that your tom cross?
I started to tie up some of my plants today and I have some
fruit and some just starting to get blossoms so I will be going
from EC 2.5 to EC 3.0. I do need to put a plant over a pan so I
can check my runoff EC.
rice555
Hi Rice, yes that is the Heirloom cross, I have already eaten one and the "Dry Matter Content" { Flesh } was exceptional , it was basically seedless, the next one I cut I will photograph and post it on here, also I am at EC 5.5 at the moment and that's as high as I will take it at this stage, but the results have been outstanding.
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all, rice555, just wanted to show you a pic of the tomato's which are now running at EC 4.5 and drainage is at EC 6.0 and they are looking very good at this stage
Cheers
Scoop
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Hi all, cobbler if you go back a few pages in this forum you will see a pic of my tomato setup which are drip fed all day with nutrient getting up around 30/35 degree C , I am sure you will see that the plants are very healthy, what happens to a hydroponic nutrient at very high temperatures is that less Oxygen can be held in solution so if you have any concern, use a cheap aerator in the supply tank and that will help, but I don't have any problem at all.
Cheers
Scoop
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Hi all, hey rice555 just wondering how everything is going with your plants, where are you up to?
Cheers
Scoop
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Good morning all, wazzadg44, wow, thanks for the questions,
The 30ltr drum is gravity fed, four plants per 20ltr bucket, 4 drippers per bucket, and the drain hole is as close to the bottom of the bucket as possible and a small piece of 4mm hard poly tube is inserted , drill the hole smaller than the poly tube so you get a tight seal , put a piece of fine bug mesh on the tube on the inside of the bucket and clamp it to the tube with a cable tie, that stops the tube becoming blocked by the coir. and the plants are growing in pre conditioned coir.
On the subject of how long will the 30ltr drum last depends on, of course, how many buckets and how many plants are in the buckets, I use adjustable drippers so I can change the drip rate when required and I also use the valve on the drum as extra control of the drip, my system uses about 60ltrs per day, and the drainage is adjusted for EC and Ph. and then reused twice before it gets dumped in the soil garden.
The rule of thumb is that you get drainage before the sun reaches 80% of its intensity { which is easily done via the adjustable drippers } but you want to aim for certain parameters, that was the first one, the second one is that you try and end up with 30% drainage at the end of the day, it takes a little bit of adjusting but you will get it eventually, the plants wont worry if you get to much drainage, as long as you get drainage, they should be draining a little bit for most of the day, but try to get around the 30% mark.
The plants are continually dripped all day and it gets turned off at night time, so once again if you meet that 30% parameter you are on your way to growing happy plants.
The "Nutrient Concentrate" Part A,B,C,D, you don't need to worry about, its a "Nutrient Management" trial that rice555 is helping me with in the tropics, at this stage you only need to use a two part nutrient concentrate Part A and Part B , it is best to keep the set up as simple as possible, then will get a good result, many people make the system so complicated that it is hard to manage and fails, the safest and easiest system is drip fed coir, you can grow anything in it, no need for a pump and its problems.
With the nutrient concentrate, you should just get a well balanced nutrient, I don't think you should formulate your own at this stage of your experience.
Hope this was plain enough English
Cheers
Scoop
Let me know if you don't understand anything I have explained
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On 8/16/2016 at 6:23 AM, rice555 said:
Hello All, first off, Scoop1, Khun Veerapol from WESCO wants to get some info from you
about your formula, He called me, also PM you and you @ address is tits up at rock.
Been windy here and only a few drops of water, tom's are getting close to transplant, chilies
are doing middle of the road, will do a new planting on the 18th.
Some of the new coir treated and bagged and ready to go. 10 more big bags to treat pluss
recycle all the old grow bag go coir.
Still picking serranos and eggs every week.
rice555
Hi all, Rice thanks for that information, I have emailed him and we will see what says, the pics look great, things a looking good
Cheers
Scoop
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Hello,
I need help calculating a liquid fertilizer from elemtar salts with NPK ratio 0-10-10 or similar. Planning to make a concentrate and then dilute and use in soil (pots) culture. Thanks
Hi CLW, 1% = 10,000 ppm so 10% = 100,000 ppm and divide that by whatever the dilution rate is,
Example !!!!!!!
10% Potassium = 100,000ppm divided by a dilution rate of 1-200 = 500ppm of potassium.
Cheers
Scoop
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Hi all, CLW I have written a post on that exact subject on Page 7, post 171 on this forum, if you have any trouble understanding it, let me know, anyone who is involved in hydroponics should learn how to calculate a particular nutrient formula.
Cheers
Scoop
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Hello All, Scoop I've got cherries and bagged and am using EC 2.5,
do the peppers run on the same EC or should it be higher?
The P-peppers are fast growing, the 1/2 flat is 1 month & 2 days old
in the tray.
Transplanted the cherries last week before we had the 100-106 week,
and the P peppers were T-P day before yesterday. Will move the cherries
into full sun today when I get up(noon), I need to hook up my timer/pump
and feed these plants better. Had the PP seed pack translated again and
the peppers have some HEAT,
rice555
Hi rice555, personally I wouldn't bother raising the EC on the Cherrie toms, I don't think you would get a better result, but it wont hurt to try if you want to try and increase the taste, with the Peppers { Chilli's } you can raise it a little, EC 2.5 - EC 3.0 it can make them a little hotter, with Capsicums , EC 2.0 - EC 2.5 is good.
With the pump and timer, I personally don't like intermittent feeding regimes, a consistent drip within the parameters I mentioned previously is going to give you a much better result and much more stable EC, and also the faster the drip the lower the EC { to a degree } in the leachate { EC 2.5 in and EC 2.5 out is where you want to be, if it rises to much then you have to increase the drip and { OR } lower the EC in the supply tank to get it balancing out, but when you are manipulating the EC for better dry matter content in your tomatoes you just stick to the EC you want and don't worry to much about the leachate as it will rise as the plant try's to take up more water, but that is what you are trying to achieve.
Cheers
Scoop
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Hi all, rice555, the plant that the fruit came off , I have been breeding for the last few years, its a cross between two of my favourite heirloom tomatoes I bread it for the sole purpose of growing it with the double truss system I use, the EC starts at EC 2.5 until fruit set and then I raise it to EC 3.O and then EC 3.5 and then EC 4.0, but the Part C stays at 1-100 and I don't use Part D because there is more then enough Potassium at the elevated EC, as you can see in the pic there is an increase in "dry matter content" which means that it is meatier , the taste is also improved
Cheers
Scoop
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Hi all, rice555, here is pic of the increased dry matter content of a hydroponically grown tomato, using nutrient EC manipulation
Cheers
Scoop
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Hydroponic Farming
in Farming in Thailand Forum
Posted
Merry Xmas ireckonso , It would be just as easy to pin the hydroponic forum which we requested at the beginning , I don't know why it is an issue , I thought it would be a simple thing to do , but might be wrong I am not a website wizz
Cheers
Scoop