Scoop1

Good morning all

On ‎12‎/‎13‎/‎2016 at 2:01 AM, rice555 said:

Hello All, very nice looking Scoop, is that your tom cross?

I started to tie up some of my plants today and I have some

fruit and some just starting to get blossoms so I will be going

from EC 2.5 to EC 3.0. I do need to put a plant over a pan so I

can check my runoff EC.

rice555 

Hi Rice, yes that is the Heirloom cross, I have already eaten one and the "Dry  Matter Content" { Flesh } was exceptional , it was basically seedless,  the next one I cut I will  photograph and post it on here, also I am at EC 5.5 at the moment and that's as high as I will take it at  this stage, but the results have been outstanding.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, DumbFarang, you need to find out what percentage  of Nitrogen is in the Nitric Acid and how much water are you diluting it in and also what are the percentages of the Calcium Nitrate and what other fertilizer salts are you adding to the mix, Part A and Part B

Cheers

Scoop

Good morning all, rice555, just wanted to show you a pic of the tomato's which are now running at EC 4.5 and drainage is at EC 6.0 and they are looking very good at this stage

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, cobbler if you go back a few pages in this forum you will see a pic of my tomato setup which are drip fed all day with nutrient getting up around 30/35 degree C , I am sure you will see that the plants are very healthy, what happens to a hydroponic nutrient at very high temperatures  is that less Oxygen can be  held in solution so if you have any concern, use a cheap aerator in the supply tank and that will help, but I don't have any problem at all.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, hey rice555 just wondering how everything is going with your plants, where are you up to?

Cheers

Scoop

Good morning all, wazzadg44, wow, thanks for the questions,

 The 30ltr drum is gravity fed, four plants per 20ltr bucket, 4 drippers per bucket, and the drain hole is as close to the bottom of the bucket as possible and a small piece of 4mm hard poly tube is inserted , drill the hole smaller than the poly tube so you get a tight seal , put a piece of fine bug mesh on the tube on the inside of the bucket and clamp it to the tube with a cable tie, that stops the tube becoming blocked by the coir. and the plants are growing in pre conditioned coir.

On the subject of how long will the 30ltr drum last depends on, of course,  how many buckets and how many plants are in the buckets, I use adjustable drippers so I can change the drip rate when required and I also use the valve on the drum as extra control of the drip, my system uses about 60ltrs per day, and the drainage is adjusted for EC and Ph. and then reused twice before it gets dumped in the soil garden.

The rule of thumb is that you get  drainage  before the sun reaches 80% of its intensity { which is easily done via the adjustable drippers } but you want to aim for certain parameters, that was the first one, the second one is  that you try and end up with 30% drainage at the end of the day, it takes a little bit of adjusting but you will get it eventually, the plants wont worry if you get to much drainage, as long as you get drainage, they should be draining a little bit for most of the day, but try to get around the 30% mark.

The plants are continually dripped all day and it gets turned off at night time, so once again if you meet that 30% parameter you are on your way to growing happy plants.

The "Nutrient Concentrate" Part A,B,C,D, you don't need to worry about, its a "Nutrient Management" trial that rice555 is helping  me with in the tropics, at this stage you only need to use a two part nutrient concentrate Part A and Part B , it is best to keep the set up as simple as possible, then will get a good result,  many people make the system so complicated that it is hard to manage and fails, the safest and easiest system is drip fed coir, you can grow anything in it, no need for a pump and its problems.

With the nutrient concentrate, you should just get a well balanced nutrient, I don't think you should formulate your own at this stage of your experience.

Hope this was plain  enough English

Cheers

Scoop

Let me know if you don't understand anything I have explained

On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2016 at 6:23 AM, rice555 said:

Hello All, first off, Scoop1, Khun Veerapol from WESCO wants to get some info from you

about your formula, He called me, also PM you and you @  address is tits up at rock.

 

Been windy here and only a few drops of water, tom's are getting close to transplant, chilies

are doing middle of the road, will do a new planting on the 18th.

Some of the new coir treated and bagged and ready to go. 10 more big bags to treat  pluss

recycle all the old grow bag go coir.

Still picking serranos and eggs every week.

rice555

 

Hi all, Rice thanks for that information, I have emailed him and we will see what says, the pics look great, things a looking good

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, rice that's a good looking very healthy bug

Cheers

Scoop

Hello tamone, ACK in BKK sales grow and bloom 2 part dry mixs(A & for tom/chilies.

If you google ACK hydroponics Bangkok, it should get you what you want. That search

will also bring up more hydro links to TV and the threads that have been going on for years.

I mix my own from chems from WESCO also in BKK, everything is by 25Kg bags and 1kg

boxes for the micros.

rice555

I finally found ACK nutrient here http://bit.ly/25SqUOO I call them, but there is only available in 5 litres both formular(900 baht each). I think that is too much for me. So, I ordered from accenthydroponics, now is waiting for order confirm. Thanks for your suggestion.

Glad you found what your looking for, when I started growing hydro here, ACK was the only place that had nutes for toms and melons, all everybody else had nutes for greens.

To answer your question about micros, I use single chems to make each batch, Cu, Fe ect.

I mix up my A-B-C for 40L at a time for toms, and a A-B-C grow and add part D for bloom

for chilies, all seed is from the USA.

Happy growing.

rice555

Hi Rice, how are the nutrients working, I have not heard from you, so I guess all is ok?

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, westbounder, there is a hydroponic farming thread on here that has lots of good information that may help you.

Cheers

Scoop

Hello,

I need help calculating a liquid fertilizer from elemtar salts with NPK ratio 0-10-10 or similar. Planning to make a concentrate and then dilute and use in soil (pots) culture. Thanks

Hi CLW, 1% = 10,000 ppm so 10% = 100,000 ppm and divide that by whatever the dilution rate is,

Example !!!!!!!

10% Potassium = 100,000ppm divided by a dilution rate of 1-200 = 500ppm of potassium.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, CLW I have written a post on that exact subject on Page 7, post 171 on this forum, if you have any trouble understanding it, let me know, anyone who is involved in hydroponics should learn how to calculate a particular nutrient formula.

Cheers

Scoop

Hello All, Scoop I've got cherries and bagged and am using EC 2.5,

do the peppers run on the same EC or should it be higher?

The P-peppers are fast growing, the 1/2 flat is 1 month & 2 days old

in the tray.

Transplanted the cherries last week before we had the 100-106 week,

and the P peppers were T-P day before yesterday. Will move the cherries

into full sun today when I get up(noon), I need to hook up my timer/pump

and feed these plants better. Had the PP seed pack translated again and

the peppers have some HEAT,

rice555

Hi rice555, personally I wouldn't bother raising the EC on the Cherrie toms, I don't think you would get a better result, but it wont hurt to try if you want to try and increase the taste, with the Peppers { Chilli's } you can raise it a little, EC 2.5 - EC 3.0 it can make them a little hotter, with Capsicums , EC 2.0 - EC 2.5 is good.

With the pump and timer, I personally don't like intermittent feeding regimes, a consistent drip within the parameters I mentioned previously is going to give you a much better result and much more stable EC, and also the faster the drip the lower the EC { to a degree } in the leachate { EC 2.5 in and EC 2.5 out is where you want to be, if it rises to much then you have to increase the drip and { OR } lower the EC in the supply tank to get it balancing out, but when you are manipulating the EC for better dry matter content in your tomatoes you just stick to the EC you want and don't worry to much about the leachate as it will rise as the plant try's to take up more water, but that is what you are trying to achieve.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, rice555, the plant that the fruit came off , I have been breeding for the last few years, its a cross between two of my favourite heirloom tomatoes I bread it for the sole purpose of growing it with the double truss system I use, the EC starts at EC 2.5 until fruit set and then I raise it to EC 3.O and then EC 3.5 and then EC 4.0, but the Part C stays at 1-100 and I don't use Part D because there is more then enough Potassium at the elevated EC, as you can see in the pic there is an increase in "dry matter content" which means that it is meatier , the taste is also improved

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, rice555, here is pic of the increased dry matter content of a hydroponically grown tomato, using nutrient EC manipulation

Cheers

Scoop

Thanks a lot for your input Gents. I think that I will go with the HI9813-5 from Thailand. I looked at EBay and Amazon to check on pricing. EBay was very similar in pricing and Amazon would not ship the unit to Thailand. You may pay more in Thailand but at least you have somewhere to take it back to if it fails.

Hi all, oldmajor, just to give you a heads up, I have had two Hanna Hi98129 Ph. EC combination meters, the first one had problems with the Ph. probe after 8 months and it was replaced under warranty, but the ph. measurements were so unreliable and inconsistent that I did not bother using the Ph. side of it and after 18 months I changed the batteries and when I turned it upside down to get them out it leaked water in to the LCD screen so I sent it back again and was told it was stuffed, so stupidly I purchased another Hi98129, after 2 months the ph. side of it was the same as the first one, useless, so I sent it back one month ago and I still have not got it back yet, its Ph. probe will be replaced again under warranty , but I am sure it will be just as unreliable , but in saying that the EC side of the meter is excellent, with this meter you have to have several solutions to look after it, cleaning solution, Two Ph. solutions, an EC calibration solution, and a storage solution, and all are expensive.

Go the Blue lab, is my advice to anyone thinking of purchasing a Meter.

Cheers

Scoop

I'm not the best person to ask, as I haven't been growing the way things should be

grown, have not stopped and really done what I should have done.

I think that you are suppose to irrigate 4-6 times a day(or more) and I don't get up till

noon,so I've already missed 2 cycles. I give all the plants nutes till there is a good runoff

from each bag and about 2/3 of the amount between 4-5PM.

If I was automated I would have better size and uniformity of the fruits(vegs).

Most of my funds are going towards some power poles and a cement pad for the out

side kithen at the farm at this time, my buying more toys are almost nil, so it's still hand

watering for 1 more year.

I go by 10% leachate from the amount of nutes per plant.

I asked Scoop1 about using a different blend of coir that is more airy than what I use now,

but he said I would have to get my irrigation cycles in control, i.e.. automated so the get

nutes on time.

If you are using the same Scoop1 formula, my serranos are starting to respond to the EC 3.0

and will kick that up to 3.5in another week.

Will be T/P cherries and pumpkin peppers next week, the peppers something for the L-minners

which I missed seeing till today, minor problem.

Watch you plants and check your leachate EC to see what you plants are using.

Pumpkin peppers, 100 anchos and tomitillo, and serranos seeded yesterday.

Temp today.

rice555

Hi rice and any one interested, I gravity drip feed my Tomatoes with a 30ltr drum , 4 double truss stems per 20 litre bucket and there are five plastic buckets , each bucket has 4 adjustable drippers, what you need is to have leachate before the sun reaches 80% of its intensity and you need to have 30% leachate at the end of the daylight period, so you adjust your ON time and off time and your adjustable drippers to achieve those parameters, if you don't have leachate before that, you have the OFF time at the end of the daylight period going off too early or you have your ON time coming on too late, or your drippers are no dripping fast enough, so its a balancing act between those three parameters and the environment conditions and plant growth stage, and that is the best way of doing it, turning pumps on and off several times per day is not good nutrient management , consistency is everything in hydroponics and being "consistently clinical" and "clinically consistent" is so very important if you want excellent results , with good quality coir which has excellent drainage properties you cant really over feed them, but its best practice to get yourself comfortable with the system you are using, there are some photos on here of my system if any one wants to have a look .

Cheers

Scoop

Ps - I set my drippers to be dripping at a fairly good rate and try to have each bucket dripping at the same rate and then I adjust the supply tank valve to give myself[ a little more control as the plants and environmental conditions change

Scoop

Hi all, rice, the fruit looks very impressive but the fungus would have caused big problems, when you grow with the double truss system that I use, the leaves are of paramount importance, if I loose a couple of leaves off a plant it makes a huge difference in fruit size, so I am very cautious with pest and disease pressure and have a spray program to combat the fungus.

Cheers

Scoop

Ps - those last two pics look very very similar to a "Tigerella"

That all sounds good rice, if your worried about it just take it to EC 3.0 then bump it up after two weeks to 3.5 and then to 4.0 two weeks later, and see how it goes, I am trying to get a photo for you to show you what it looks like.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi Rice, don't be afraid to take it up to EC 4.0 and EC 4.5

Cheers

Scoop

I have to agree with drtreelove, there is no way that tree would support the fruit loading it has, there are not enough healthy leaves to support the fruiting stage so you end up with fruitlet drop, you need to get rid of the bugs that are eating the leaves first, and also a potassium based fertiliser will help after you rectify the pest problem.

Cheers

Scoop

Hello All, Scoop I will try the higher EC-Part D out on some plants in a

few months, what am I looking for at EC of the leachate?

The first toms I grew in LOS hydroponicly was a 250g Black Krim and

a 300g Beefsteak.

This year with saved seeds from last year with the the new nute formula

I have exceeded last season in amount and size of fruit, I'm a happy

camper.

I wish I could figure out what the red tom is??? It's with my PBTD's and

I don't remember any other tom seed started besides Black Cherry which

we know it's not, nor IE or PBTD, must be having a senior moment.

The red one is a good performer anyways, and are good size. The red on

the scale shows some sun scald as I thought it was a PBTD so left it a

little exposed to the sun, this is one of the larger ones.

The rest of the pic's are self explanatory.

rice555

Woww, they are Class A Tomatoes Rice, well done

Scoop

Hi Rice, you need to buy a calculator, haha, here we go,

Tomato Formula

EC - 2.5 = Dilution Rate of 1-100, = 100ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 3.0 = Dilution Rate of 1- 83, = 120ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 3.5 = Dilution Rate of 1- 71, = 140ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 4.0 = Dilution Rate of 1- 62, = 160ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 4.5 = Dilution Rate of 1- 55, = 180ml of Part A and 180ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

Ok, now with the Part C it stays at Dilution Rate of 1-100 = 100ml of Part C in 10 litres of water when you go over EC 2.5, when you go under EC 2.5 then you use it at equal amounts with Part A and Part B

If you don't understand something, let me know!!

Hope that helps you understand how it works

Cheers

Scoop

Hi all, Rice, use EC 3.0 after you have good fruit set, and then raise it to EC 3.5 when you have a good fruit loading and the fruit is expanding, if you use this type of water stress manipulation on chilli's you can make them a little hotter, as for Part D , don't use it unless you see early signs of a potassium deficiency, at EC 3.0 you will have 438 ppm of potassium and at EC 3.5 you will have 511 ppm of potassium so you should not need Part D, it does not matter whether they are hybrids or heirlooms.

Cheers

Scoop

Hi guys,

What's another company in Bangkok to order chemicals besides Wesco or Chemipan? Neither have phosporic acid. Is that possible? Anyways that's what they say.

Hi, WatUp, see if you can find "Rust Remover" which is Phosphoric Acid, or a garden product called Anti Rot, it is also Phosphoric Acid.

Cheers

Scoop