Dutchbike

Those Ducati mechanics must have a well paid job ( i wonder how much of that 1000 thb hour rate they see back on there salary slip)

keep those reports coming, i considering buying a M795 in a year or 2 ( new or second hand) and it's good to know about the running costs, "weak" points etc etc.

anybody measured the fuel economy??

When buying a big bike fuel economy just doesn't come into the equation

Why not..... a bad fuel economy wouldn't stop me from buying a bike when i really want it, (i run a few 150cc 2 strokes and there more expensive on fuel then my 3 liter diesel pick up)

But things like range are interesting to know. Also the running costs are things i would like to know in advance.

Those Ducati mechanics must have a well paid job ( i wonder how much of that 1000 thb hour rate they see back on there salary slip)

keep those reports coming, i considering buying a M795 in a year or 2 ( new or second hand) and it's good to know about the running costs, "weak" points etc etc.

anybody measured the fuel economy??

Aaaah....2stroke

What are decent shape bikes like the nsr etc go for?

Reading this thread is making me drool a bit. My first "big" bike was a yamaha rd 350 (middle 70's model), followed by an rz 350.

The first one had a wickedly narrow powerband resulting in lots of unintentional wheelies in 1'st and 2'nd gear, the rz being more smooth (slightly anyway) in its power delivery...

Pure performance wise they couldn't keep up with the 3 and 4 pot 4 strokers (at double the displacement) of course, but fun wise, hitting that magic rpm where the thing rockets of, aah, oodles more fun then the big boys...

So, I'm kind of interested in a 150 or 250 2stroke fun machine...any tips?

Am pretty good mechanically, so no worries doing all the basic stuff/adjustments, the tinkering with it is part of the fun for me....

Cheers...

P.s. Recently had a zoom around on a dash 125, compared to my wave 125, makes you realize that cc for cc, 2 stroke has no competition!

Sent from my GT-I9001 using Thaivisa Connect App

Agreed with KRS1 about pricing, but there seem to be not may NSR's SP around, it;s become a bit of a "collectors"bike ( at least among us farangs)

Some parts ( made in Japan) are quite expensive and that recent engine overhaul + replacing various parts costed me around 50K. and even with so much money spend that NSR keeps my busy as you can read in this thread.

Last february i bought a brand new Yamaha TZM 150 R from a dealer which still had "old" new stock Thanks to this Forum!!

It was 58K, and i'm very, very hapy with it. Untouched by dodgy mechanics , never modified or thai style tuned.

The dealer is in Khon Kaen and got loads of new 2 strokes ( mostly underbone) i don't have the adress at hand at the moment, will look it up and post it. It's also in an older thread about TZM's

well, at least it's fixed

Veloil is about 600baht per 1L I think.

All are fine in the autolube system, my friend runs challenger synthetic in the autolube without problems.

I'd suggest running the autolube on max setting IF you stick with shell semi-synthetic, or just use it as is with 100% synethetic.

Where do you live dutch?

I'm located in Buriram province,

I will start to use that Challenger 2T from now on. ( on all my 2 strokes) The ( Chinese/Thai) guy where i buy my Shell 2 T couldn't get it for me, but was helpfull giving me a telephone number from the distributor so i hope i can get a few bottles in the coming week.

The NSR should be ready next week , the mechanic wants to make a few testrides to make it run perfect, well let him have a bit of fun on it, he drives a NSR RR, and is the 2 stroke expert in that workshop.

@ tankbreather,

I'm not an RC valve expert ( mayby KRS1 jumps in)

But non functioning RC valves can be caused be a lot of things (CDI, servo, cables,rc valves faulty) disconnecting the RC valves will make the bike run (in the fully closed postion) well until 6000rpm. when you set them in the fully open postion the bike will run rough in the lower rpm's and should run well in the higher rpm's.

But you mentioned that the bike got very poor performance mayby there are more problems.

Since you don't want to spend to much on the bike, mayby you can have the rc valves replaced ( shouldn't be 9k) or look for a second hand cylinder, i don't now the price of a new servo but i think it's expensive.

I'm not aware of any other cylinder without RC valves which woud fit.

Good luck.

That shell advance autolube is what I used to use, it's alright for putting around, but it's not really good enough for spirited use. It's semi-synthetic (I think 30%?)

I highly recommend 'PTT Challenger 2t synthetic 100%' - this stuff is really good, and it's not too expensive. I pay about 250baht for 1L, about double the shell price I guess. (The gas stations don't stock it, you have to buy it from Honda etc. - be weary the gas stations have a challenger 2t bottle, but it's semi-synthetic and piss poor)

It will make a HUGE difference in lubrication and reliability. I haven't had any problems in a long time after switching to that stuff.

You can tell the quality is better just by looking at the two, the shell advance stuff looks like water and is quite thin, the synthetic stuff is almost like a caramel consistency and is a golden brown colour.

Thanks for the advice on the oil, is that Challenger 2T ( being thicker) suitible for autolube?? earlier you mentioned Veloil, is that even better?? I don't mind paying more for 2T oil.

I guess all of the other 2T oils ( from Honda ,Yamaha Castrol etc) are more or less all the same quality (semi synthetic)

Update; Yesterday the dealer called and a bit of good news, the piston and cylinder where fine and didn't caused the seizure, the problem was more below and according to the mechanic the seizure is caused by a faulty connecting rod bearing ( large end side) I only don't see how this could cause a stuck engine? ( mayby the crankpin blocking the crankshaft ??)

Since the overhaul was 3 months ago i will have to pay for the actual parts ( 1400thb) the rest ( labour/gaskets/oil) is for free I can live with that, even with labour rate so cheap, removing a engine from the Frame , totaly take it apart ( seperate the engine crankcases) and rebuilding everything is quite a timeconsuming job, better something for free then nothing.

Also the mechanic tolded that the 2 t flow was a bit poor, i'm not aware of anything you can adjust on the oilpump for more 2t oilflow,other that setting it at the marks.

Just curious to hear what kind of driving style other TV members are using here in Thailand.

I live in Thailand for almost 2 years and at first was a bit intimitated by other road users (mostly cars) Quickly i found out that as a biker you'll belong on the far left side of the road among all the other bikes no matter what you're driving.a 50 cc or a 1400cc, when approching cars decide to overtake you better hide, by now i'm used to that and devolped a totaly different driving style then in Holland.

I'm extra cautious, but still like to drive at some higher speeds then most of the bikes, when want to do so, you're kind of forced of doing things ( left and right overtaking e.t.c e.t.c) what back home you would had overthought twice before doing.

I consider myself a safe rider, but in that 2 years (about 35.000 car km's and 20.000 bike km's) i noticed my driving style has changed, to more a ( i'm looking for the right word) "offensive" style.

it's a SP.

5 seizures whoooow.so you have been there too, many guys would have given up on a bike after a second seizure, gotta love those 2 strokes.

my runaround TZR runs on pre-mix, with that bike i had a similair seizure as you described: Locking up at 120km/h indeed scary, and in my case painful.

After that i used premix on that bike, aproxx 1:35 is Shell VSX advance 2T a good 2T oil??? ( adviced by the guys from Tyga)

For the NSR i prefer to keep the autolube, but first have to see what caused the seizure, if it's a lubrication issue i will consider pre-mix for this bike as well.

the complete lubrication system is brand new ( oilpump,tubes,strainers,cable) and it was well adjusted.

Yesterday i went back to the dealer, there still was no movement in de kickstater and the mechanic who did the overhaul was afraid that the crank bearings caused the seizure,( a stuck piston mostly comes loose after cooling down) well, that was your work buddy, so there's a bit of hope about that warranty, my wife made it clear i was not pleased and expect that they will fix it for free.no comment just smiles........

They will start dismantling the engine to find the cause of the seizure, guess i will be making a daily visit to check upon the progress.

When it looked like it was end good all good things did change 2day and the story has just begun.

Today went for a ride and while on a nice stretch of empty road i openend it up, reached 170 km/h, off the throttle and speeding up again good response, enough, while slowing down to cruising speed, suddenly no more power ... O no... pulled out to the side of the road and the engine just died on me, pushing it into a the shadow took off my helmet and jacket to check it, i always carry some tools and spare parts ( sparkplug) and i thought ( hoped) that, that ( a dirty sparkplug) was the "problem" try to start it and no more movement in the kickstarter O No... a stuck piston #*!#^*!!!

Luckley help ( my Thai brother in law and his pick up truck) was just a phone call away, in 45 minutes he was at the spot and we lifted the bike in the back, of course he didn't took any ropes to secure the bike so i sat in the back,preventing the bike from falling in the corners.

During that ride of shame i had all the time to think what could have caused it , poor lubrication??? running to lean??? or something more serious down below in the engine??? dropped the bike off at the Honda dealer who did the overhaul ( top-end, crankshaft bearing, connecting rod etc) after they did the overhaul, i installed the engine and brought the whole bike there so they could start it up and do the adjustments, in that way ( they tolded that) they could give me a sort of warranty on the overhaul) well it's time to put that warranty to the test, told them not to touch the bike, untill i come back with my wife for the nessacsary translations. that will be tomorrow.

After i got the bike back from the Honda dealer, i readjusted it a bit ( RC valves, jetting) and the first few 100km's drove it very mild, didn't change anything major, also i double checked the adjustment of the ( new) oilpump.

The rest of the story is in the previous posts.

After my brother in law dropped my of at my house , i took out my TZM 150 and made my ride after all, just to forget this bad experience, it helped, i'm not giving up on this NSR but do hope that the "warranty"from the Honda dealer is worth something.( but i doubt it)

To be continued........

I had the same pre-powerband stutter when I switched to a racing pipe - some carb tuning helped, but in the end I just switched to a PWK30mm and it now runs perfect.

If it's not the carb, I second the power-valve timing, those cables are a pain in the ass. KIPS had the better idea for PVS imo.

With fitting a PWK carb i asume you ditched the autolube ( oilpump) and use pre-mix.

You still got the airbox or fitted a performance airfilter??

I was already afraid that a Tyga exhaust ( or other brand racing exhaust) would need more adjustments then rejetting to make the bike run well.

I,ve red that some people are using NSR 250 carbs ( 1 of the 2) and that seems to be also a big improvement.

I want to keep the autolube, so that narrows the possibilities.

For now i'm happy i got it running well again, and have some more rides, mayby in the future will give the "racing" exhaust another try or it will come up in the adds

I'm also curious to see how much these M795's will do once they show up on the second hand market.I'm afraid they are not going to drop a lot in price ( especialy when fitted with some expensive mods)

I'm thinking about buying a M795 in a year or 2, second hand or new but when a second hand one will be around 350k ( what i expect) i will go for a new one.

I doubt second hand M795's will be bought by rich Thais,one of the things i've learnt of this country and people, is that there's a lot of "showing off" and "look at me" attitude among Thais, when you're rich ( or poor) and Thai you buy new, period.When even "poor" people prefer to buy new and take on downpayments for 2 or 3 years on a fino, i can't see a rich ( or pretent to be rich) Thai guy getting a second hand ducati, he will loose face among his friends.

Sounds like it was running too rich, since raising the needle will richen it, combined with the larger jet couldve have been overly rich ? Do you remember how many turns out the air screw was before you readjusted it?

When you pulled the slide from the carb, did it feel like a solid chunk or was it questionably light? The real ones have brass slides, the fake ones are all silver colored on top. The fake npro carbs have really light slides and the bypass hole etc...havent passed through an ultrasonic cleaner during counterfeiting to reduce turbulence.

The fake carbs have serial numbers stamped on, authentic ones are laser etched, each character will be composed of many small dots to draw out a letter/number. But not really sure whether the earlier versions were also laser etched.

The slides in the first generation npro carbs and the new ones you can buy today, have different air flow indicated by the stamp on the slide.

Original Keihin jets are chamfered around the hole to reduce turbulence, fake jets dont have any chamfering, so it wont flow like a real one. But honestly i havent really been able to tell any difference.

Glad you got it sorted out, when i hear 'H mark' i cringe in fear...lol

H mark, H mark, H mark, H mark, H mark, H Mark haha.

You seem to know quite a lot about these NSR's.

The carb is 100% an original one. I,ve tried once one of these copie ones on a TZR ( luckley i could get a refund).

b.t.w. what's excatly the function of the intake chamber ( the black "box" on the manifold??)

Thanks KRS1 funny i'm getting advice all the way from California.

@ KRS1 sprockets: front 14T rear 40T Yeah those RC valves.... i think the YPVS from Yamaha is far more reliable and they seem easier to adjust ( although also working with cables)

Update: this afternoon i took out the carb and cleaned it with compressed air, i changed the main jet for the stock size (#152) ( the slow jet is # 42) I wrote that you can't "fiddle; with the postion of the needle, but there's a trick: you can raise it a bit by putting a small washer under the needle (1 mm) before putting the needle in the throttle valve ( red it on a NSR site) I did that before, and now removed that washer again, reset the airscrew to stock setting ( from fully closed position 2 turns out) and finaly fitted the ( removed) "snorkel" from the airbox.

Took it out on a testride and it seem to have worked,it runs much better in midrange and now revs up to 11.000 rpm. don't know excatly what did the trick ( removing the washer and by that lowering the needle or changing the main jet???) for now i will leave it at this set up and do some more driving. But at some point i'm sure i want to try the Tyga exhaust again, i always was tolded that if you change the exhaust on a 2stroke for a "faster one" you have to change the main jet for a bigger one, but mayby more modifications are needed to make it run well ( like fitting a performance airfilter) well, working on those 2 strokes is a learning process and i'm still learning.

Even more things to check ha ha, well the new Cylinder came with new RC valves so i hope there not already toasted, i already did some adjustments to the RC valve timing but my main problem is in the midrange ( stuttering and running very rough)and in that midrange the RC valves are still closed.

before the overhaul the engine also didn't got into the redline but the old RC valves weren't damaged.

just to get things clear, RC valve timing: when the engine runs stationary the mark on the pulley shoud be on the H mark of the cylinder,( RC valves fully openend) when you rev it they close, and at about 6.5 / 7 K they open again.

That's what the workshop manual tells.

Thanks bikkalad, will have a go with the carb first, cleaning it and replace the needle. the reeds where fine ( stiff ) when i put everything back together.

I also replaced all the seals in the carb but still suspect the carb causing the "problem" when it would be an ignition problem it should appear in all revs ?? off to my workshop now.

Since i had the engine of my NSR 150 SP overhauled, ( complete new top end, crankshaftbearings etc etc)it's not running as it did before.

In midrange 3500 rpm until 6000 rpm it's running very rough,and it's stuttering ( that is with about 1/4 throtlle opening) when i open it up more it's struggeling to catch rpm's but once the engine gets in that higher rpm's.. 6500 rpm and higher it runs well and there's plenty of power, when i get to 9500/10.000 rpm,it just refuses to go higher ( redline starts at 11.000rpm)

I've tried different main jets # 152 (=stock) # 155 # 158 but that's not making a lot of difference.

After the overhaul i fitted a Tyga exhaust system and i first thought that could haved caused it. but today i went back for a complete stock setup ( exhaust) ( except a # 155 main jet) and the "problem" is still there.

When the bike is stationary and i rev it, it runs fine all the way in the rpm range.( but also here not much higher then 10.000 rpm)

The bike got a new OEM cdi, new ignition coil, a fresh spark plug (NGK B-9-ECS)

The RC valves are working well and are adjusted as they should be.

The needle in the carb is non adjustable so i can't "fiddle" with that. but will replace the needle as a last try, and then i'm out of options so any suggestions what might could cause this "problem" are welcome. The way it drives now it's like all or nothing. I know, a 2 stroke will never be very smooth in the lower rpm's but it was much better before.My other 2 stroke bikes: a Yamaha TZM and a TZR ( similair engine designs as the NSR) are more civilized in the lower rpm's.

Mayby a NSR is a more delicate design and needs a perfect set-up, (for which i'm looking for)

You can give this company a try:

United Relocations (Thailand) Co. Ltd

Address:

13 Bangna-Trad Soi 27

Bangna

Bangkok 10260, Thailand

Contact Information:

Tel: +66 (0) 2 398 9015

Fax: +66 (0) 2 398 9016

Ask for the manager: Stein Krakholm

.

They cleared a container with household effects for me it went super smooth and i was very statisfied with there service.

I'm not sure they clear suitcases, but i'm pretty sure they have many contacts which could help you.

good luck

I've never blew a piston, and my bike is FAR from stock spec and runs a tad lean. I've been running 91b for the past 18months. Every other 2stroke rider I've met runs 91b, when we go on 2strokeclub rides, I've never seen anyone fill up with gasohol.

These bikes were not designed to run gasohol, and as such alot of the components cannot withstand the corrosion.

Yes, the bike will 'run' and will run well - the eth will just eat shit apart from the inside.

I've got 4 2 stroke bikes and there all run well on benzin 91.

In some older threads ( over 2 years ago) there already was talk about stopping selling benzine 91 but with hundered thousends of older vehicles in this country which can't run on gasohol can't see that really happening. mayby they will reduce the stations where they sell it.

@ kiske, mayby a bit off topic is it this 2 strokeclub your are talking about??

Any events in the near future?? would love to have a look and meet some fellow 2 stroke fans, i checked the website but it's all in Thai.

Some nice mods, only the decals ar not my cup of tea.

Nice looking bike, more modern looking then the Lifan cross 200 , as Bikkalad wrote the engine won't give that much problems ( beeing based/copied of an older Honda XL design)

Personally i would be very cautious about the M-bike brand, one of my Thai family members got an M-Bike fly 125 ( Honda Wave lookalike) and in the past 2 years i saw this bike slowly falling apart, and this uncle is one of the few Thai guys i know who really takes care about his bike, only the engine is still going strong.

Digital dash...nice but for how long??? USD forks.... nice but qualitywise ( the mentioned seals)????

When i would be in the market for a low budget dirtbike i think the Lifan Cross 200 is a better choice, there's a thread on TV with a lot of satisfied owners.When you want to go for M-bike i should wait untill there are some independent reports on it, but hey... somebody gotta be the guinee pig. Good luck and keep us informed

I never hear of a Mbike Fly 125, I know about a Pbike Fly 125 so maybe you get the name wrong? Also there's a scooter called the Fly 125 but that is made by Vespa (unlikely that falls apart in 2 years).

Pbike was a distributor of Ryuka/Zongshen, which in the early days did exactly the same thing as Mbike, selling motorcycles under its own brand name (Pbike), currently the website of Pbike (http://www.pbike.net) is not working so maybe they are gone....

For the Mbike Delta 200 (Loncin LJ200GY-2) I found that the link provided earlier gives a good and independent view of the motorcycle (http://www.mychinamo...JL200GY-2C-quot)

I'm pretty sure it's a M-bike Fly 125 , at the moment the uncle is working, but i will see i can post a pic of it to prove it.

from want i've understand there was a bank who was giving this M bikes fly 125's away when people took a loan from that bank.

Nice looking bike, more modern looking then the Lifan cross 200 , as Bikkalad wrote the engine won't give that much problems ( beeing based/copied of an older Honda XL design)

Personally i would be very cautious about the M-bike brand, one of my Thai family members got an M-Bike fly 125 ( Honda Wave lookalike) and in the past 2 years i saw this bike slowly falling apart, and this uncle is one of the few Thai guys i know who really takes care about his bike, only the engine is still going strong.

Digital dash...nice but for how long??? USD forks.... nice but qualitywise ( the mentioned seals)????

When i would be in the market for a low budget dirtbike i think the Lifan Cross 200 is a better choice, there's a thread on TV with a lot of satisfied owners.When you want to go for M-bike i should wait untill there are some independent reports on it, but hey... somebody gotta be the guinee pig. Good luck and keep us informed

L.C.O.C ???

I'm lost here what do you mean???

L.C.O.C ??????

Lincoln chamber of commerce

Landcruiser Owners club

Lowell Church of Christ

Hi Ryan, where excatly in Buriram is that shop Monster located?? as you know i'm in need of a new rainsuit Also curious what other kind of ridingkit they got there.Not easy to find Farang sized gear around here. How the 1000 km service went ?? probably an oil and olifilter change and cleaning the airfilter element.how much you paid for it?

My friend is convinced!! he wants a Lifan Cross 200 and by the end of this year we can go out riding with the 3 of us, and who knows mayby there some more off roaders in the Buriram area and we can start a sort of off road ridingclub The Buriram Dirtbikers

happy trails

Well Ryan, i couldn't describe yesterday's ride better, btw my thaivisa name is Dutchbike.

As seeing the Lifan cross in action and have a close look at it, i really think it's good value for it's money, for those who are wondering....... nothing fell off

We hit some pretty rough trials and the Lifan could go where the KLX went, sometimes at a bit slower speed, but that's because of the suspension which is far more superior on a KLX ( which is 3 times the price of a Lifan) you get what you pay for and for those who are on a budget or just don't want to spend much on a bike it's in my opinion a good choice, 45k for a brand new off road bike.... which really CAN go off road.

Of course the future will tell how it's holding out in a year or 2. but parts and maintenance are cheap.

happy trials

Dutchbike

From what i've heard it's not possible to drive a bike from the Thai side over the bridge into Laos.

I've been there ( by car) last december and there is a big parkingplace ( covered) which is perfectly safe to let your car ( or Bike) for a few days ( about 100-150 baht a day)

Plenty of hotels in Savanaket ( just ask a minivan driver), not much entertainment in Savanaket but a nice laid back city and good food, somewhere down the main road in the city there's a bike shop which had a few very nice restored Honda CB 72 supersport ( from the 60's) outside.