
IMHO
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Most SmartTV's have a locked up "app store" ecosystem - so if the streaming vendor you want to use isn't supported by your TV manufacturer, you're going to need a separate media box.
In the case of iLikeHD+ they have only an Android app. They have no apps that I know of that will run directly on any smart TV, and no app even for Apple devices. If you want to watch their service via their app, you'll need an Android box. You could perhaps watch it via the web browser built into your TV, but navigation using a mouse cursor and a remote control will be a chore.
Many thanks for that
iLikeHD have Apps for PC, Smart phone/Tablet and Smart/Large TV.
So, with a Smart TV there is no need for an Android box, you use the iLikeHD Smart/Large TV App.
It works well on our Samsung Smart TV.
Are you sure you found an ilikehd app for your Samsung, and not that you're just using your TV's web browser?
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even a pool is useless if not 40x40 to exercise...
Why does it need to be square?
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OP...good thread. A hot tub is akin to a BOAT---make sure you have a friend that owns a hot tub.
A hot tub is a hole in the ground where you toss money.
The money expenditures never cease!
I used to make a very good living getting rid of hot tubs in USA. The liability and insurance demands are ridiculous.
In short, they are maintenance nightmares.
You have to be your own chemist, etc. I talk people outta buying them all time.
I, too, like baths. The best bath---imho---is a Kohler cast iron tub. Yes, you need to make arrangements to have a proper boiler that can handle filling up a tub with the desired water temp. When in USA, I add about 4-6" of pure hot water. This heat is retained by the cast iron nature of the enameled tub.
I then add amendments: a scoop of baking soda, a scoop of Epsom's salts, a squirt of olive oil and a sachet of "colloidal oatmeal."
The oatmeal takes care of skin abrasions and dryness.
Then I jump in and add shots of hot water whilst reading! Yes, I like hot baths---not hot tubs.
Hot tubs are small swimming pools. You cannot add olive oil and other soothing amendments. The chlorine in a hot tub will wreck anyone's skin. They are over-rated. If you want to buy one---look about and buy a new unit, slightly used.
When I managed properties, at the top of the list was "no hot tubs---no RENTAL hot tubs."
Someone gets drunk, slips underwater---your turn to face lawyers and barristers in court.
Not worth the hassle. A swimming pool is by and large---a municipal function, open to the public for a fee.
There's a reason for this.
Hot tubs at a private home is a good way to chuck your money out the window.
Up to u.
I don't know of anyone who would use a hot tub in Thailand. Jacuzzi jets/seats in a nice cool pool though, absolutely
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And there's always RS Components if you want fast local delivery.... at a cost
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At the moment the best ROI you get will be with a grid tied system without a battery backup. You have to check with your electricity supplier which inverters they allow to use and if they allow the meter to spin back during the day. Then you can size your installation so that the current you deliver to the grid during sun hours match your power usage during the night.
The disadvantage of an off grid installation is it inflexibility to deliver more current as the inverter is designed for. Meaning if you always have to keep in mind you can not run power hungry appliances in parallel. it is a nuisance to have to switch of the air conditioning before doing the laundry.
With commercial installed prices ranging from 50 - 70 Baht per Wp for grid tied systems in Thailand, an off-grid system with a 500 Baht/day local sparky doing the work is competitively priced..
The system I proposed in my OP would work out to about 67.5 Baht/Wp - but that also increases with additional system losses and battery replacement of course.
It's the 50K++ everyone wants for the install, red tape and paperwork that makes grid-tie nowhere near as good value as it should be. An off grid sysem doesn't need approvals/red tape, and is well within the capabilities of my sparky.
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I concur with everyone that's suggested it's just because you have a low end film.
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I had a similar issue with my TV's before I solved our low mains voltage problem. It was bathroom ceiling fans starting up that triggered our "reboots" though, not lights.
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We have two - one is 3-seater section in our pool, it's used almost daily. The other one of the bathtub types (whirlpool + jets) in our ensuite - used every week or so.
No surprise the one that sits 3 and is much more social gets more use though I suppose
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Try this Aussie calculator, assuming you live in Darwin, similar climate to here, but fill it in honestly, with real measurements:
That looks quite useful without being over complex.
Comes out at about 12,000 BTU for our OP (had to make some assumptions on wall and roof materials).
Thanks for that
Ive just filled in the calculator with the following info ( my answers are shown in Blue )
1. Region - Darwin
2. What is the ceiling area of the room you wish to cool? - 18.5 m2 ( Uninsulated tiled roof over )
3 . What is the floor area of the room you wish to cool? - 18.5 m2 ( Uninsulated suspended concrete slab enclosed under )
4. What is the height of the ceiling in the room you are cooling? - 3.7 m
5. What is the total area of the internal walls with unconditioned space adjacent? - 32.19 m2
6. What is the total area of external walls including all the windows? - 18.5 m2 ( Concrete block masonry with no insulation )
7. How large are the windows? - 2.56 m2 ( West - Externally shaded ) + 2.56 m2 ( North -Externally shaded )
8. How many people will be using the room? - 2
Calculated answer = 3kw
convert kw to BTU ( convert kW to BTU multiply by 3414 )
Required BTU = 10,242
I use this online calculator for the m2 area
http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/diy/roomarea.php
How do my figures look
I don't know how much difference it would make, but you may need to swap N and S facing windows / walls as we are in the Northern Hemisphere Oz is in the southern.
You probably also need to add some BTU to everything because in Oz, all walls have studs and a layer of sheetrock on the interior side, which adds to the insulation.
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One poster said: "Dehumidification alone makes a room feel cooler".
I already run (exhaust) fans and other fans. Incoming air seems also not dry. So im trying to find a way to dehumidify my living room.
Read about salt and other products who can absorb. @jingjoe gave outdoor protection tips.
If i must run an electric dehumidifier i can better run that 260w aircon (50%). So what are the alternatives..???
I did say that, but also said the best way to do it is still a proper AC
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The new model will not require you to fix it with aftermarket accessories that might impact your warranty though
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I don't own one, but I do have a question and some advice
You say you've also tested many other cars - what is it about the Trailblazer that attracts you to it, or it does better than Everest, Pajero Sport, Fortuner and MU-X?
And the advice: There is a heavily updated version of the Trailblazer coming soon - most probably within the next 3 months, but for sure this year.
Article in today's Australian media regarding new Trailblazer. Sounds like a relatively superficial update?
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/holden-confirms-trailblazer-suv-20160506-googry.html
According to the article, they have gone for the tacky North American design language, so should sell OK here and in Aus.
You never know, the Australian interpretation of US design language worked out OK for the Ranger/Everest.
The new version styling is a major improvement in my eyes. Can the ride quality, noise and interior finishes make it a contender though?
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Ace of Pop used to have one - maybe he can give some input.
The furthest I got was a test drive - the noisy-as-a-kubota engine, awful D-Max dash, interior color scheme, and general lack of refinement all over turned me off pretty quickly. The updated version promises to improve on those areas though.
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I would use a submersible pump dependent upon the lift.
+1, After having several different well pumps, I now only use submersibles. Half the electricity, twice the flow, completely silent, and don't need any protection from the elements.
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There are actually 3 versions of the Smile:
Smile (FTKC..PV series) - 11,900 BTU / 990 Watts
Smile plus (FTKC..QV series) - 11,900 BTU / 960 Watts
Smile (ATKC series) - 12,100 BTU / 1,110 Watts
The Smart series (FTKM) are more efficient - 11,900 BTU / 810 Watts
The Smile Plus adds a infrared sensor that can increase the preset temp by 2c when no-one has been in the room for 20 minutes to save energy. The Smart series also has that feature, plus it has motorized left/right swing (others have only up/down), so is able to distribute air around the room more evenly.
For best prices, copy and paste some model numbers here: www.priceza.com
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I am on my 2nd Michelin Digital Power Source (the inflator). The first one failed out after about 4 months. The second one has now been going for over a year, so maybe the first was just bad luck. No warranty on these, so you're on your own.
The fact that I bought the same device again speaks for how much I liked it when it did work though
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I don't own one, but I do have a question and some advice
You say you've also tested many other cars - what is it about the Trailblazer that attracts you to it, or it does better than Everest, Pajero Sport, Fortuner and MU-X?
And the advice: There is a heavily updated version of the Trailblazer coming soon - most probably within the next 3 months, but for sure this year.
Article in today's Australian media regarding new Trailblazer. Sounds like a pretty superficial update?
http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/holden-confirms-trailblazer-suv-20160506-googry.html
It's more then just a restyling job, changes include: uprated engines, new body mounts to improve NVH, updated dash design and modern infotainment system, improved ride quality, a full set of airbags (top spec only though I expect), and new active safety aids bringing up to Everest and PJS tech levels there.
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A quick scan of a Mazda3 club forum reveals that up to 50,000 Baht discount is possible.
Google for: Mazda 3 club Thailand
Unfortunately, I dont understand the Thai yet. could you give some more detail information please?
Do you have a Thai friend that can help you?
Even if you manage to translate these sites, you're still left with the problem of calling the dealer...
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I think the Everest is a significantly better option - but there's a waiting list.
.. and no way to get in with MT.
Not sure why the OP wants MT, he doesn't appear to be looking at 4x4 models, so he must just be nostalgic
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Here's the PPV numbers:
Toyota: 2033 + 2613 + 4195 = 8,841
Mitsubishi: 1797 + 1752 + 2983 = 6,532
Ford: 283 + 496 + 585 = 1,364
Isuzu: 681 + 71 + 188 = 940
Chev: 140 + 67 + 78 = 285
However, Isuzu's Jan numbers were bumped by bookings made in the December rush (pre new tax system), and Ford took a big hit with the new taxes (150K price increase), plus they still haven't figured out how to deliver 3.2's to people as fast as anyone wants them.
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but servicing at the dealership is very expensive, therefore we use our local mechanic for service.
I guess you've been around long enough that no-one needs to tell you non-dealer servicing will void your warranty
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A quick scan of a Mazda3 club forum reveals that up to 50,000 Baht discount is possible.
Google for: Mazda 3 club Thailand
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Those figures are for March only, and the "pickup" numbers are actually pickups + PPV's inclusive.
Pickups only in Q1 looks like this:
Isuzu: 9417 + 11245 + 11647 = 32,309
Toyota: 7640 + 8134 + 10525 = 26,299
Ford: 2012 + 2093 + 2598 = 6,703
Mitsubishi: 1791 + 1733 + 2489 = 6,013
Nissan: 1794 + 1743 + 1768 = 5,305
Chev: 900 + 909 + 1233 = 3,042
Mazda: 480 + 455 + 598 = 1,533
Thanks for this. So the reason for Mitsubishi to be ahead of Ford in the other statistic is that the Pajero is selling really well?
Delivering well
Let's not forget that these are all based on cars in actual customer's hands.
Living offgrid with small solar system(s)
in DIY Forum
Posted
I still think a solar heat powered stirling engine make more sense