RubberSideDown

riding in the dark without turning on the lights in the hope of saving some gasoline shows ignorance and stupidity

How is that relevant to patching a tire (which will work fine if the puncture wasn't very large)?

It depends how you put it on the brake disc- some angles are more prone to false alarms- also, it's pretty sensitive, and if your bike isn't on solid ground, passing bikes and cars can set it off. The light sensor is also a typical culprit- here's info from one website that can help if it's going off without an obvious cause:

1. remove internals

2. spray some WD40 on paper

3. polish the base of internals on wetted paper, such that the two light sensitive photomultiplier windows are bright, clear and free of frosting.

4. reassemble.

Mine has been OK, but I've read reports from others similar to yours.

Ain't nothin' wrong with this thing- place your bets on the price- the Desmosedici RR was $75,000- I don't think it will be that high, but $60,000 wouldn't shock me- probably close to 4mil in LOS- limited to 500 bikes- get your order in now;):

Celebrating the Italian manufacturers commitment to performance technology and lightweight construction, Ducati now proudly introduces its latest limited edition dream model, the highly exclusive 1199 Superleggera. The new machine combines a precious cocktail of materials such as titanium, magnesium and carbon fibre to set the highest power-to-weight ratio of any production motorcycle in history. Producing more than 200hp and weighing-in at just 155kg* (341.7lb*), Ducati showcase their innovative engineering and stylish approach to design, while affirming the maxim: Authentic Italian Performance.

The Superleggera follows in the successful wheel tracks of previous iconic limited editions, like the Desmosedici RR, with its exclusivity boldly underlined with just 500 examples of this extraordinary machine being assembled at Ducatis headquarters in Bologna, Italy, each with its own individual number inscribed on the top clamp.

With its baseline starting from the already impressive 1199 Panigale R specification, the Superleggera incorporates a magnesium monocoque frame and forged Marchesini magnesium wheels before taking lightweight to the extreme with a carbon fibre rear sub-frame and bodywork, lithium-ion battery (LIB) and full titanium exhaust system with stainless steel headers. Many of the bolts and fasteners on both engine and chassis are also fashioned in titanium. Additional enhancements include lightweight Öhlins FL916 front suspension with fully-machined fork bottoms and an Öhlins TTX36 rear suspension with titanium spring. The Superleggeras Brembo M50 Monobloc brakes inherit a racing-style MCS 19-21 front master cylinder and remote adjuster and its final drive gets upgraded with a lightweight Ergal rear sprocket, and World Superbike-spec 520 drive chain. Finer attention to detail is hidden in the shape of the carbon fibre body work, which is moulded with the same high-penetration form normally provided by the R spec add-on aero-kit.

The Superquadro engine, which sports titanium con-rods and inlet valves, now adds titanium exhaust valves, and, for the first time on a Ducati street engine, special two-ring pistons. These pistons, usually found on racing Superbikes, use short skirts and only two rings (compression and oil), allowing them to dramatically reduce mass and friction. To further increase performance, the combustion chamber is also modified to Superbike specs by a new piston crown that increases compression ratio. Added to this is a super-lightened crankshaft, precision balanced using dense tungsten inserts. The enhancements result in an incredible output of more than 200hp as it rolls out of Ducatis Borgo Panigale factory in Bologna, Italy.

The Superleggeras outstanding power-to-weight ratio can be enhanced even further with the supplied track-only Race Kit**. The kit, which increases power by 5hp and reduces weight by 2.5kg (5.5 lb), consists of a titanium Akrapovič race exhaust system including silencers and 2-in-1 collector, high racing windscreen, dedicated dust cover, front and rear paddock stands, machined mirror fill-caps, and removal kits for the registration plate holder, and sidestand.

The models electronics are also upgraded thanks to the new system for managing front-wheel lift Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC) which is based on an Inertial Platform. This DWC system, along with Ducati Traction Control (DTC) and Engine Brake Control (EBC), is optimized with new automatic calibration of rear-tyre size and final transmission ratio. The Ducati Data Analysis+ (DDA+) system adds an additional sensor and software channel to record and display vehicle lean angles. This impressive array of included electronics is completed by a set of race-derived, handlebar mounted control buttons to enable rapid, on-track adjustments to the levels of the pre-selected channels of DTS, DWC, or EBC.

Appropriate to its highly exclusive status as one of the most exotic and desirable Ducatis of all time, the 1199 Superleggera is exquisitely dressed in Ducati Corse Red base livery, complemented with forged and machined magnesium wheels.

1199 Superleggera features

Chassis:

Magnesium monocoque

Magnesium wheels

Carbon-fibre rear sub-frame

Öhlins FL916 front suspension

Öhlins TTX36 rear suspension with titanium spring

Single-sided swingarm with 4-way adjustable pivot

Brembo MCS 19-21 front master cylinder

Carbon fibre bodywork

Individual number engraved on the top clamp

Engine:

Superquadro: L-twin cylinder, 4 titanium valves per cylinder, Desmodromic, liquid cooled

World Superbike-style pistons with 2 rings and crown modified for an increased compression ratio

Lightweight crankshaft with tungsten balance inserts

Titanium connecting rods

Full titanium exhaust system

Electronics:

Ducati Traction Control with automatic tyre size recalibration (DTC)

Ducati Wheelie Control (DWC)

Dedicated handlebar buttons for on-track adjustment of DTC, DWC or EBC

Ducati Data Analyser+ with lean sensor (DDA+)

Ducati Quick Shifter (DQS)

Engine Brake Control (EBC)

Riding Modes

Ride-by-Wire

Full LED lighting

Full TFT instrumentation

Lithium-ion battery (LIB)

Race kit:

Dust cover

Front and rear paddock stands

License plate holder removal kit

High racing windscreen

Sidestand removal kit

Machined mirror fill-caps

Full race exhaust system by Akrapovič.

many pro riders wear perforated suits, not as scary as it 'seams'

I wear a perforated suit (and jackets and pants and boots)- I trust Dainese and Alpinstars and similar companies to get it right- I don't necessarily trust some Bangkok tailor who works with leather to properly add vents to the gear that I trust to save my skin- properly setting up leather to vent air and still be protective is something that requires skill and know-how.

I didnt suggest he get some tailor to do it, so you can get that out of your head right now.

many pro riders wear perforated suits, not as scary as it 'seams'

I wear a perforated suit (and jackets and pants and boots)- I trust Dainese and Alpinstars and similar companies to get it right- I don't necessarily trust some Bangkok tailor who works with leather to properly add vents to the gear that I trust to save my skin- properly setting up leather to vent air and still be protective is something that requires skill and know-how.

Panda Rider has some stuff as well- I bought my disc alarm from them.

Got a set of carbon fiber look (not real CF) mirrors off eBay for 2300bt delivered to LOS- they're OEM quality and better than I expected (I had a scratch in my stock mirror housing that really annoyed me;)):

I should mention that incorrectly placed vents could negatively affect the structural integrity of your jacket in a crash (as could improperly situated perforation).

You need to check the thickness of the leather- if it's ~1mm it might work, otherwise it could be a problem.

My guess is that it's too thick- generally perforated leather jackets use thinner leather on the perf sections (non-impact areas) as it allows better airflow and use thicker leather on impact areas- non-perf jackets usually use thicker leather everywhere- you would have to make the holes too large for it to flow.

You might look into having some zippered vents sewn in (2 vertically cut front and back).

I've read good things about Rev'It, but I've never owned any of their stuff- Panda Rider is an authorized dealer (I'm sure that's wear you bought your jacket;)) and their prices are excellent.

That's a wind-proof, water-resistant (but not not water-proof, meaning in a heavy downpour you'll get wet) liner for a chilly day when you want to cut the ventilation from the mesh- you'll rarely need it in LOS.

That's the T-GP R Air jacket- you paid a bit of a premium, but it's a very nice jacket.

This is a fantastic textile jacket- Dainese G. Air 3 Tex that runs 7K in LOS:

I just picked up this Alpinestars T-GP Air jacket- $220 + $10 shipped to LOS, and I didn't get hit with import charges (the Dainese is better quality, but I like the Alpinestars Bio-armor better):

There is another explanation, or perhaps two, that you really don't mind being hot a sweaty, or indeed unlike me you don't sweat, or maybe you just like wearing black leather, if so I could refer you to a couple of sites my friend knows... Mr. Rubber side down is the clue.

Don't you guys realize what wearing leather says about you? You 'love' leather jackets?!?!?! You're gonna end up on one of those sites Allan's 'friend' knows.

Here's my other favorite- Dainese Rebel (localized perforation only- Dainese doesn't really go full perf on their jackets):

If you're looking for a cheap armored, perfed leather jacket, MotocycleGear.com still has some AGV Sport Topanga jackets available at $150 shipped if you have a source in the States- I have one and it's well worth the price (it also comes in black and red):

Any rain-suit doesn't allow water (and therefore air) to circulate- they're never cool or comfortable- I've got a nice Oxford oversuit and I hate wearing it.

As far as the Dainese jackets go, there are four or five that it could be- there are several good ones out at the moment.

This jacket was the best deal I ever scored on a piece of gear- it's a Teknic Violator perforated leather jacket, and it came with a CE-certified back protector (and a zip-out thermal liner I'll never use)- they came out at $550, but not many people were willing to pay that much for a jacket that didn't say Dianese or Alpinestars on it, so they sat around and were eventually closed-out- I got it for $279 shipped to LOS, and customs didn't charge any taxes (YMMV).

It's extremely technical and has a hump in the back for aerodynamics and fits so tight it's like a second skin (and you'd never wear it off the bike), but if you can find one leftover it's a great deal for what's basically the top half of a race suit- it feels great on the bike- it flows a ton of air for a leather jacket (though not as much as mesh, of course):

Rain-suits are all terrible to wear (regardless of their color) if you're referring to a cheap plastic suit- by their nature they allow zero airflow (even ones that are layered don't really vent at all)- you can't compare them to a proper mesh jacket.

Which Dainese jacket are you looking at? 9K should be one of their decent textile jackets- note you'll need a separate back protector if you want to increase its safety rating- they don't supply their jackets with one.

Yes, no one picks up dirt or oil on their jacket from cars tossing it up from the road- I keep thinking you can't get any dumber with your contributions, Allan, but you keep proving me wrong on that point (unlike any other points;)).

You realize leather has better abrasion resistance than textile, right? Of course you don't- your plan is to import cheap crap from China that is completely worthless- I'm sorry your finances don't allow you to choose something better. I wear leather gear occasionally- it does run hotter than textile, and I don't wear it on the hottest days, but I prefer it for safety (as does every knowledgable rider).

Again, tell me one piece of quality gear you have experience with, 'boy'- you can't, because you have none.

What are you basing your '60mph' claim on? I think you pulled that out of the same orifice from which you gather the rest of your claims.... As someone with something you sorely lack (practical experience and quality gear) I can tell you that you start to feel the air flow as soon as you start to move, even at a very slow pace- 60mph is stupidly off the mark.

Here's a pic of my Dainese textile jacket (7K in Thailand- another 3K for a quality back protector)- all armor is CE-rated (I know you have no idea what that means...). You're looking through the front and back- do you really think you need to ride 60mph to feel the air flow through it 'to offset the color black'? The black material is quite thin, and (as I tried to explain but you no doubt missed) thickness of the surface is a factor of emissivity. Another ridiculous assumption on your part. All non-impact areas are mesh, and impact areas are made from material with better abrasion resistance (yes, I know you hate the color- cry me another river- of course you know that the red on the sleeves and the white section on the back which isn't in view reduce emissivity- no, you probably don't):

'Keep the rubber side down' is a biker expression you might have heard if you were an actual rider rather than someone who tools around on a glorified scooter giving worthless advice. Please, don't think you can condescend to me- your cluelessness jumps off the screen with every post.

The bottom line is this, Allan- "If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong."

This forum has quite a few losers who are as educated about proper riding technique and gear as the locals they like to disparage- sadly, Allan, you're the leader of that pack.

And as far as these 'Ventz' go, as I already said they might be worthless- for 1K I think they're worth a shot in my looser-fitting jackets- if not, no big deal.

I am honest when I say I know nothing about all this gear you fast riders wear

That's all you really needed to post- you have no experience with proper gear, so you're going on supposition and assumption rather than experience.

The fact is that proper gear generally won't keep you as cool as no gear, but quality gear made specifically for hot weather will keep you cool enough, and it's more than worth the trade-off.

You keep going on about 'fast riding'- I am in complete control of my bike regardless of my speed- I wear gear because of two reasons- first, I'm not immune to rider error, and no rider can say he/she is, and second, I can't control the other people on the road, and their possible stupid moves can take me out no matter what my speed happens to be or how defensively I ride- it's not about confidence in myself or even about my own ability, but rather it's about the lack of confidence in others- I've seen cars and bikes take out other riders that were operating their vehicles in a safe manner- we all have- a smart rider prepares for that situation.

Once again Allan needs to flaunt his ignorance on a gear thread- as least he's consistent.

So Mr.Big Expert, it is your opinion versus science http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-heat-absorption and why these poxy vents will make any difference at all?

Your main argument against white of silver jackets is that they get dirty.....ever heard of a thing called a washing machine?

So, Mr. Know-Nothing, what high-end hot-weather gear have you worn that you can give an actual, real-world review on? Of course the answer is 'none'.

Yes, I've heard of a washing machine (not that every jacket can be put in one- leather can't, and some textile jackets have non-removable armor and need to be dry-cleaned)- have you ever heard of road grime and oil, which doesn't come out of light clored fabric? The white sections of my Dainese and Alpinestars mesh jackets already show some stains that can't be removed, and they're not more than a couple months old. Are you willing to pull on the same filthy gear day-after-day? It seems that- for a self proclaimed physics expert- you still haven't managed to grasp the fact that a jacket can combine different colors to take advantage of both lighter areas and darker areas to receive the benefit of both. Did you know the thickness of a material also affects emissivity? Of course you didn't. Did you know that decent mesh and a proper liner can actually pull heat away from the rider regardless of the color of their jacket? Nope, you didn't. Do you have any data that shows how your web link relates to a jacket with white sections in areas most likely to be in the sun? If course you don't. You have zero practical knowledge. You're right about one thing, though- in comparison to you, I am indeed an expert on hot-weather motorcycle gear.

Do you realize that air-flow has a cooling efect? Ever hear of the 'wind-chill factor'? Again, apparently not.

The argument isn't over what colors absorb more heat, but, rather, how those colors can be combined to give the best of all worlds- all black runs hotter- all white/light colors get dirtier- how can they be combined to run cooler and last longer? This is the third time I've tried to explain it to you- you really need to work on your reading comprehension.

Go ahead and wrap yourself up like a baked potato, though- that will work out great.

Once again Allan needs to flaunt his ignorance on a gear thread- as least he's consistent.

The problem as I see it. For the air the Ventz let in doesn't there have to be a way for it to get out. So unless you jacket already has vents, with an S, in the back there is nowhere for the air to get out and if it does it probably already has... Next time I ride (sic) I'll try the middle of a toilet roll and see! Just maybe...

exactly, the jacket must have air exit.

I have this jacket: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/scorpion-recruit-leather-jacket

which is pretty awesome, it's leather BUT, it's very cool. there are two zip in the front and on the back.

I use it cause I ride a lot a late night, and it's cold... but on day time I also wear it and I just open full the zip vents...

So much air comes in the jacket that I don't even feel that hot.

but as well, like @mania said, I look really like an inflated balloon, LOL... all that air slows down the bike a lot.

so, if the jacket already have good vents, you will NOT need this at all.

Your jacket isn't perfed at all, and allows in air flow on the sleeves- if you could get a bit more air into it, it would feel cooler- unless it's ridiculously loose on you, how could the sleeves balloon up? If I wear one of my technical jackets, the sleeves have almost no room at all (and I wouldn't bother trying the Ventz with them as there's no room for the air to flow)- I would use them only with a less-restrictive jacket,

There's no way these small vents would do anything to affect the bikes' performance.

^

Air that's moving has a cooling effect- it's why a fan can help on a hot day, even though it's blowing warm air- it's why a vented or mesh jacket feels cooler than one that doesn't let air through. It should be pretty obvious that another air stream would keep you cooler.

You don't wear gear, but that's your problem- you brought it into this thread unnecessarily- it's your right to comment wherever you want, but it was pretty pointless in this case.