moonoi

Don't worry about the spoke count, my Giant P-SLR1 wheels have the same count and I come in at 110kg, haven't had any issues. In fact they are stiffer than my new wheelset that has 20/24!

Tubeless is great, as with a tubeless tyre and sealant punctures pretty much go away. You'll only have a problem if you slice open a tyre, and then you have the other advantage of tubeless over tubular.....you can put an inner tube in to get you home.

The only problem in Thailand is getting the tubeless tyres, they are not readily available.

In terms of rim width, wide is the new thin. Research has shown that wider tyres roll faster, so most new wheelsets are designed with 23mm as the thinnest the you can fit. With the roads in Thailand I'd go with 25mm and run lower pressures for comfort.

I don't think for fashion, more of wearing that heavy stiff thing. But of course no choice in the nowhere on long distances....For bicycle a backpack might be a good alternative (beside 7/11)

I recently ran a 100K with this on my back and didn't even know it was there. It are very lightweight and there is no frame, so no stiff parts.

Just in my in my imagination: When it is full with fluid, isn't it shaking, fluid splashing inside?

Well you answered that question already, still it surprise me. I recall when I was on the way with heavy backpack every day both on the bicycle and on the mountain, I didn't know that it is there as well. It is just a matter to get used to it.

Thanks for sharing this......specially as I consider to run again, as well, just didn't get an idea where, yet.....

If you're riding an MTB or Hybrid type bicycle, you probably won't notice it too much, but on a road bike it is really uncomfortable due to the more aggressive riding position.

Another solution is Profile Design do a twin bottle holder that clamps to your seat post or seat rails (if you have an aero seatpost) mostly used by people in Triathlons.

Bicycle parts are 10% plus the VAT. The duty paid is based on price of goods plus shipping, not the just the value of the goods.

Sometimes though you get lucky and you don't have to pay any duty or VAT, unless they use DHL or Fedex, then there's no escape :-)

Sorry for the late reply, been working in India for the last 2 weeks :-)

The entire route is asphalt, they have resurfaced it though, which is why street view might show some dirt road sections. Most cyclists use this route, as it's nice quiet and safe, even when you hit the dual carriageway.

For me I need around 1 large bottle (750ml) per hour. I mix this with electrolyte from High5, SIS or Gu. They're dry tabs that you can just carry in your jersey pocket and add to your water when you refill. It's a bit more expensive than buying stuff from 7/11 or familymart, but I find it far more effective, and no longer suffer from cramps during long/hot days in the saddle.

Hydration packs are good (I have a Camelback one that holds 3L for my MTB), but I find they are uncomfortable on a road bike and you sweat even more due to the lack of airflow over your back.

This is the stuff I use, I would say though that Chocolate milk is just a good recovery drink after a ride as any dedicated recovery drink, so won't be buying any more once I've used this bottle up:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424424264.374471.jpg

are these electrolytes available in Thailand?

Where?

That sounds like a nice solution to refill the bottles with water from the shop + a tap from this electrolytes

I normally mail order mine from Wiggle, Evans or Chain Reaction. Cheaper than buying locally even with delivery charges. I've tried the local electrolytes, they aren't the same the concentrations are different.

For me I need around 1 large bottle (750ml) per hour. I mix this with electrolyte from High5, SIS or Gu. They're dry tabs that you can just carry in your jersey pocket and add to your water when you refill. It's a bit more expensive than buying stuff from 7/11 or familymart, but I find it far more effective, and no longer suffer from cramps during long/hot days in the saddle.

Hydration packs are good (I have a Camelback one that holds 3L for my MTB), but I find they are uncomfortable on a road bike and you sweat even more due to the lack of airflow over your back.

This is the stuff I use, I would say though that Chocolate milk is just a good recovery drink after a ride as any dedicated recovery drink, so won't be buying any more once I've used this bottle up:

Campy wheels are relatively inexpensive, popular ones from a cost/performance perspective are the Scirocco 35mm wheels approx 10-12k THB. I used to have Campy Eurus and they were great but cost around 20-22k.

Even the entry level Vento Asymmetric wheels are far better than the standard ones that come with a bike and come in at 7-8k with a shimano 10/11 speed compatible hub.

Only one word of warning, TCA, the local importer for Campagnolo, don't carry many spares, so if you break a spoke, you'll have a lengthy time getting a replacement.

Another one to look out for is Veltec, not tried them myself, but heard good things about them, and they use standard spokes, so easier to fix if you have a problem.

Mavic have good range across all price points, but suffer from same issue as Campy, have bespoke spokes. Importer is easier to deal with though :-)

Haven't seen it, sorry. You could try Probike, the Trek importer, near Lumphini Park to see if they plan to bring it in, or can special or for you.

There aren't many disc based commuter road bikes available in Thailand yet, probably the closest is a Giant TCX SLR or Colnago World Cup, both Alu CX bikes, the TCX is around 45k and the Colnago around 70k, not cheap really. The TCX comes with rack mounts for touring though.

I wouldn't say I've mastered it, I can hold it for around a minute before I have to ride off, or put my foot down.

For riding no hands, I think the same as you, I remember it being easy, eating, drinking while riding, relaxing even. Now I wobble all over the place, certainly my confidence has taken a knock, I wonder if it's because the geometry of race bikes has changed so much since I was younger, so it's more twitchy. It's probably like the trackstand, need to practice and build confidence, but the Bangkok roads aren't really smooth enough to do that!

Better one learned to keep locked in the clips and stand without legs down. I never could do that.

It's called a trackstand, I practice in my village and try to see how long I can do it at lights if the junction is clear :-) quite fun

You find quite a few tutorials on the technique to use, but you can start here http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/skills-q-a-how-to-trackstand-20438/

The problem with using WD-40 for highly stressed chains is that this stuff doesn’t sustain high surface pressure.

So you can’t avoid metal rubbing directly on metal what causes abrasion and pitting what consequently causes increased frictional losses as well as higher wear.

I always use tough “Chain-L” chain oil, and don’t clean my drive train after every ride but after about 200 - 400 km (master link, diesel, tooth brush, compressed air: < 10 mins.). Thus a chain (9-speed XT) comes to an approximate life span of 4’000 km, and a cassette (SLX) to up to 14’000 km. Even then the chain doesn’t jump yet but starts not to run smoothly anymore during shifting operation.

Even though I can't imagine a life without WD-40 (and duct tape ;-) )I wouldn't recommend WD-40 for lubrication of your bicycle drive train as long as we speak about "serious cycling". For only a weekly loop to the local market it's O.K. to prevent rust ...

Seriously watch the GCN video I mentioned. The guy has been using WD40 on his drivetrain for 5 years without ill effect, as a professional cyclist.

Didn't know you can't post you tube links, so just search for GCN 5 min bike wash, if you're interested.

Tonto

This is interesting. What is the lubricant?

I always thought WD 40 was just kerosene with some odours added. was I wrong?

http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts:

Myth: WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40_[emoji768] stands for Water Displacement, WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Myth: WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40_[emoji768] Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle maintenance needs, check out WD-40_[emoji768] BIKE. Developed specifically for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike mechanics for decades.

Even GCN recommends using WD40 as both degreaser and lubricant, you can check it out here:

Infinite is a local Thai brand owned by LA Bicycle. They have a UCI Continental level race team sponsored by Singha and have Peter Pouly as probably their most (in)famous rider :-)

The bikes are pretty good and would say they are probably the best of the local brands given that they design them themselves and don't just buy off the shelf OEM frames from China painted with their own logo (Nich do this and I wouldn't touch one of their bikes with a barge pole), and certainly on a par with the other brands you mention.

Only problem I found is there isn't much choice in frame size if your a bit long legged.

First of all congratulations on your purchase :-)

Thank you for your response.

They adjusted the seat and as you recommended I got regular pedals which can grab my shoes. Only one thing that connects frame and handle bar that they said i need to change it to 1cm shorter one for a better holding position. Right bow my arms are exposed to high tension. It was about 2000 baht(the one match the bike black matte frame) and I said I ll buy later.

If you mean pedal with the loops on to hold your foot in place (these are referred to as pedal clips), these are far worse than starting out than clipless pedals (the ones you need special shoes to attach yourself to the pedals). Ditch the clips and just keep the standard flat pedals. Sorry if that isn't what you have, but it's important to know that these clips are pretty dangerous if you're not familiar and used to them. In other words they're a beginners nightmare.

2000 baht for a new stem might sound expensive, but it will make a massive difference to comfort when riding more than 30mins, by all means try as it is, but you might suffer from should and neck pains due to the stretched riding position, and you won't be having much fun!

And that's what it's all about, having fun and keeping/getting fit with your bike :-)

All I can say is, I used a similar chart in deciding to try out the Panaracer Ribmo on my 29er. It was a nightmare in trying to get the tyres seated on to the rim without pinching the inner tube. I'd put them on to do a 200km Audax but ended up taking them of, as if I had a puncture at the side of the road, there was no way I could get the tyre back on the rim at the side of the road.

That is exactly the type of problems you may run into when using road tyres on an MTB rim.

Although MTB rims are commonly only a few mm wider than road rims, the rims/tyres are designed differently. A road tyre is designed for higher pressures (typically 2.5 - 3 x as high) and the tyres beads, bead chaffers, plies, rim lips, etc. may just not fit together. This can result in different problems such as fitting problems, hose folds, pockets, sliding hoses, broken valve stems, and pinch flats.

In theory, you could switch from MTB to road rims, but apart from the additional (significant) cost, you would face a host of issues, such as finding a compatible cassette, finding a compatible quick release, a compatible brake... and before long you wish you had bought a road bike in the first place.

Cheers, CM-Expat

That was the point I was trying to make, charts say one thing, but reality proves something else.

Also, try finding road rims for a 142x12 thru axle :-) you'd have to custom build, and as you say by the time you've gone through the hassle, you could have bought a road bike for similar money.

In my case, my road bike isn't really suited to an Audax where you have to support yourself, which was why I went for using my 29er, which I've since sold all the components of except the frame and wheels (no one wants a 21" frame in Thailand) and switched to a 650b All Mountain Hardtail. Still to use it in anger though, the road bike has been getting most of my attention recently

Generally if you're going to be riding mostly on reasonably flat terrain with few gradients, you might get a benefit from an aero frame, especially once you start averaging speeds of 30kmh and above. The aero properties of the frame should mean you need less effort to maintain the same speed over a traditional style frame.

If you're going to be going up and down hills a lot, then the more traditional style of frame might be more suitable, generally they are lighter (although not always the case).

But the biggest factor is actually you, as the engine powering the bike.

Really it's down to what you like the look of and the type of riding you expect to do.

If choosing between these, I'd go with the Reacto, just because it looks fast ;-)

If I remember correctly, you can also get the Scultura in the Team Lampre Merida colour scheme for a pretty good price (around 30k THB I think), and in my opinion, looks better than the standard colourway.

The problem is MTB rims are generally a lot wider than road rims, and the tyres are designed with that in mind.

The link I gave in my previous post suggests not.

http://www.betterbybicycle.com/2014/04/a-simple-guide-on-essentials-of-wheels.html

All I can say is, I used a similar chart in deciding to try out the Panaracer Ribmo on my 29er. It was a nightmare in trying to get the tyres seated on to the rim without pinching the inner tube. I'd put them on to do a 200km Audax but ended up taking them of, as if I had a puncture at the side of the road, there was no way I could get the tyre back on the rim at the side of the road.

According to a couple of shops around here, they've had similar problems.

Since then if you're using an MTB on the road, suggest going with something like Schwalbe Racing Ralph or Furious Fred, my current favorite all round tyre is the Continental Race King. Don't need to be bothered with swapping tyres around for marginal gains, and can go on or off road just long as it's not too muddy..

Reacto is their aero type frame, Scultura is their more traditional frame. Depending on what you want, the Scultura is probably a better all rounder and will have a more comfortable riding position.

If you're choosing between these, then go with the one you like the look of most.

The problem is MTB rims are generally a lot wider than road rims, and the tyres are designed with that in mind.

Just saw this on Bicycle Thailand, would love to meet him, but it's a bit to early in the morning for me to get myself down to Lumphini park or the Rama 3 branch:

Meet Jens Voight in Bangkok! Recently retired professional road bike racer and all around nice (funny?) guy Jens Voight will be at Pro Bike (on Sarasin road, next to Lumpini Park) on January 31 from 8:45-9:45, and at Pro Bike (Rama 3 branch) on same day from 10:15-11:15. Visitors to the shops can meet Jens Voight, who will be signing cycling jerseys and photos. This is an unofficial visit and Jens Voight is not appearing as a representative of TREK and its affiliated brands.

Probably the best place if you don't want to ride on the road is suvarnabhumi airport, as previously recommended by gbob. They have 2 circuits now as well, a short one for beginners and the full 23km loop around the airport.

I used to run Panaracer Ribmo 35mm road tyres on my old 29er. Prior to that I was running Racing Ralphs. In my experience, the Ralphs rolled better, were faster and weren't such a pig to fit.

There is one in The Promenade/Fashion Island as well on Ram Inthra road, if you don't have any luck.

Road cc just posted a review of the 2015 Trek 1.2

http://road.cc/content/review/140904-trek-12-road-bike