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2 hours ago, BritManToo said:

https://s.lazada.co.th/s.EY5iY

I paid 1,976bht Inc delivery in the 4/4 sale, same price on sale day every month.

And they work earlier and later than our 340w panels.

 

Today they're 2,092 delivered as not a sale day.

Thanks

Here they are 2.745 on FLASH sale.

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23 hours ago, BritManToo said:

Panel prices have dropped a lot since then, your panels would have cost around 3kbht each, now you can buy panels double that capacity for 2kbht each.

Your 28 units a day cost you 90kbht, now you can get the same number of units a day for 28kbht.

Do you have link to the panel deal you found?

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On 3/5/2025 at 11:43 AM, Muhendis said:

Quite so.

If you have a big battery in parallel with a small battery of the same voltage, The small battery will become discharge sooner than the big one and unless they are isolated from each other with a huge diode the big battery will spend some of its energy maintaining the charge in the small battery. 

Since you say your batteries are full by lunchtime I'm guessing that has always been the case so your batteries are not capacity challenged except that they are struggling with your load.

Option 1.

Turn off/down air con. 

Option 2.

Turn off wife and get more batteries.

Currently Im looking into option3: More batteries, more panels  and another inverter. It must be the heat...

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1 hour ago, BritManToo said:

Panel prices have dropped a lot since then, your panels would have cost around 3kbht each, now you can buy panels double that capacity for 2kbht each.

Your 28 units a day cost you 90kbht, now you can get the same number of units a day for 28kbht.

Yes i noticed that. Its great so many more can go solar. I see batteries going down too.

BA

2 hours ago, BritManToo said:

1. Run your aircon at full blast between mid-day and end of solar production to cool the house when it's free power.

or

2. Add grid-tie inverters to wind the meter back after your batteries are full.

 

I do No. 2,

added a couple of new panels and a 1000w grid-tie inverter.

I use to have a stra6tegy same as your alt1..but usually forgotten..but today Im back on that .

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2 hours ago, Muhendis said:

It may not be so simple although I hope it is.

There may also be a need to increase charging capabilities too

and whilst your about it have a look at whether or not the batteries are getting fully charged.

 

Another thought has occured to me, as they accassionaly do.

Last year the batteries presumably handled their loading OK but this year they don't

I would be inclined to check installed battery capacities first.

 

Batteries are getting charged and usually full at lunch time so i have more charge capacity. It this current time both batteries are charge at 40A or so each.

Regarding more batteries i guess there is not much point to ad batteries with more than 280A as the others batteries are 280A?

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51 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

It may not be so simple although I hope it is.

There may also be a need to increase charging capabilities too

and whilst your about it have a look at whether or not the batteries are getting fully charged.

 

Another thought has occured to me, as they accassionaly do.

Last year the batteries presumably handled their loading OK but this year they don't

I would be inclined to check installed battery capacities first.

 

I must use some time to check this more in details.. But look like aircons used more electric last days ( they both cleaned a week ago) It might just been extra hot last days and we used more power than we used to do. I tried to compare back same time last year but Growatt stat do not store data that long.

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1 hour ago, Crossy said:

 

Do you really need an excuse to get more storage? 

It took me not even a minute to tell wife maybe we should ad another battery, from 2 to 3..

Edit: Let me ad she was not so enthusiastic about that..

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Used some more air con than normally last days and Im getting some short on battery storage..

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Mod can close this tread. Just got totally useless replies

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17 minutes ago, richard_smith237 said:

It always amazes me how some are so reluctant to do their own basic research, when such information is so readily to hand.

And what do you know about that? I searched Lazada, Shoppe and Global and more. Most who sell online sell small overpriced pieces so i took  the step to check if some might had experience buying in some local stores or from a foam supplier. So basic research done. Thanks for very useless comment You should find something better to do

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43 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

30 seconds on Lazada using the term “XPS Polystyrene Foam” gives you a number of suppliers.

 

AliExpress gives an equal number of hits.

Thanks for your reply

Offcource I checked that already and even more places. Did you see the prices?  and the sizes? 30x30x5 cm 1 B75. So thats a joke. Im looking for like 10 boards 120x60x 5 or something.

xpsfoamthai:

XPS 60x120x2.5cm
32kg/m3 (not spreading)
price 150 Baht/sheet 

And just for the info I mailed xpsfoamthai and asked them too to suggest where to buy.

Would cost a fortune to get from China because of the volume.

 Did you think about that when you write your reply?

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Im looking for some blue XPS Polystyrene Foam boards as its stronger than the EPS foam. Any idea where to buy or order?

On 3/2/2025 at 9:08 AM, atpeace said:

I was reading aother thread recently and a person was having trouble with his 2 inverter setup.  I only have my one Anern inverter and was wondering if anybody had any experience with their inveter going down.  I can't find the documentation in the manual but was hoping it would still pass through AC current from the grid which many inverters seem to do.  After going solar, my electric usage has sky rocketed and a sytem shutdown would be a major pain in the butt with all the new wells, water pumps, pool, ice bath, exercise room ... Never imagined I would ever need more than 6.5 kw at my small home but I will soon enough and would rather only buy one new 10kw inverter.

 

Another option would be a on/off switch before the inverter so the grid would be used exclusively if the inverter failed.  Has anyone installed such a switch?

In my setup I use a ATS. I dont want to depend on inverter to handle  grid power. So if by any reason i dont have solar power the ATS just switch from my solar to grid.

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Just now, Crossy said:

 

Pretty much, yes. Have a look at the Solar Assistant website for full details.

yes im on it.  Any view on if it smartest to place the unit near my pc and screen and internet router ( means long usb cables to inverters) Or near inverters and long cables to screen and net) I guess 20m USB to long..

Where Solar Assistant shipping from?

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11 hours ago, Bandersnatch said:

 

Definitely going the solar assistant route to integrate into my Home Assistant Dashboard. My Growatt app logs me out multiple times a day which is a real pain. 

 

I plan to buy the raspberry pi locally and simply download the software from the site. Will document my experience 

Great..Im looking into same so i will check your updates on this.  The re login several times per day to Growatt is quite annoying. So the Rasberry Pi and Solar Assistant will collect data from the inverters and then data can be loaded via IP on a pc?

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I have follow this topic some time on another forum. I seems to be related to regional exclusive sales rights for united States and some other places where some had ordered from others than the company who have have the exclusive rights to sell those inverters.

The fact that they have the possibility to harm customers in this way also open for other possible scenarios like some unhappy staff or some hacker or any who just want to harm the company and its users.

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Ok so there was an short extension added to the org wire that's why the color confusion. After pulled the oven out and made a new test ( with grid power) and with just the org wire the main breaker home switched right away. This time the kitchen breaker not switch only the main. So the oven will be sent on service today. Thanks to everyone who contributed with help and ideas.

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1 hour ago, lom said:

You can measure resistance between the wires and the oven chassis with a multimeter and confirm which one is safety ground. The color combination in your cable is unusual and if you check the site I linked to then you can see that also.

Please also observe where in the world brown colored wire is used..

If the oven is made in Europe and the cable is original then brown is live and blue is neutral, but black as safety ground is a no-no.  Black is a phase color in Europe.. 

Ok I tested that as good i could. As i can see its the black who give a solid result on resistance. On the 2 others i got some low running numbers.

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52 minutes ago, lom said:

Are you sure that is the correct connection? Brown for live is standard but blue is usually reserved for neutral. The color usage you suggest is not part of any known standard..

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2020/07/electrical-wiring-color-codes-nec-iec.html

 

Do you have a schematic diagram for the oven? If not google may have one for you.

Thanks for the info. I do not have anything on this. When oven was new when build home the electrician mounted it. Then its unmounted some times to take out oven for service and cleaning. Photo of the power wire attached. Oven is  Teko and probably made in Spain or Germany.

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11 minutes ago, Schoggibueb said:

If you have the possibility you can do following: Plug the oven to another socket (has to be a different circut breaker!!!). If you get the same fault, it should be the oven. If no fault -> wiring or circuit breaker problem

Yes I will test some more. Currently Im checking my  3 pin socket. I mounted oven wires: Brown to Live. Black to neutral and light blue to ground (its a built in oven who come with just the wire.)

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The breaker and main breaker switched. My oven use 2600w or so as maximum.  Today I tested with 20A breaker and most strange is that it not switch when oven was in use but 20 min later,  so it must be some electrical issue with the oven, so i will send the oven on service.

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I wired my kitchen over to a breaker with a few more Amp capacity and tested today. First it looked to be a successfully test of the oven, but then 20-30 min after used the oven main breaker and new kitchen breaker switched. I tried to flop it back as i had do before but now it just switched again. Next i disabled the power socket for the oven and switched successfully power back on. So issue is my oven..

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Look into some 5K deye. Crossy got some at a good deal..look into his tread

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