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JackA

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Posts posted by JackA

  1. Out of the speaker brands memtioned, I've only listened to Jamo, which have a better "heritage", as they are "danish". As most of their drivers are vifa based, I would go for these. Jamo is by no means considered a highend brand in Denmark,but usually considered an "okay" brand. A warehouse bulk seller much in line with Dantax or other danish brands.

  2. 3311 vs 3310:

    what is new?

    - HDMI 1.4a with support for 3D and ARC

    - dual HDMI outputs

    - Audyssey DSX built in (instead of having to pay for an upgrade)

    - Audyssey MultEQ XT (instead of regular MultEQ) and Audyssey Pro capable

    - Front USB port now supports direct iPod/iPhone connection

    - New network features like Pandora, Flickr, Rhapsody, slightly better DLNA support

    - i/p control interface for remote tech support

    - Dual subwoofer outputs (mirror image, not independently filtered)

    - New, improved one-sided remote

    - The 3311CI has 5 more watts per channel.

    what is gone?

    - No more switched outlets on the rear

    - Fewer legacy inputs:

    ... One fewer S/PDIF input (2 optical / 2 coax on new model instead of 2/3)

    ... One fewer Component Video input (2 instead of 3)

    ... Fewer s-video and composite video legacy inputs, one fewer analog audio input

    ... No more EXT IN multichannel analog inputs

    It seems weird that this (pre)release should be rushed, as the differences are minor to previous model.

    I do realize that incorporating the new Audyssey might have an impact. Also the Dual subwoofer outputs are dual mono...

    Just wondering - Opening the Yamaha Z7 and the much older v2700 - the similarities are striking. PSU+Heatsink+filter caps

    are identical. I would think - once you have a good design the alterations are minor which in case is why they can "spit"

    out new models at the current rate, and not let the consumer be "beta" testers.

  3. Hi there...

    I think you can get a better overall setup...

    The Pioneer LX83 is nice, but don't forget it's class D

    and that it tends to have a bright/harsh/detailed signature.

    And I have a feeling that the AVR is not up to the task of driving

    the Paradigm speakers, which is known ofhaving nasty impedance dips

    into the 2.5-3 ohm.

    I would suggest the following AVR

    http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=146.154&id=2474〈=en〈=en

    Review - please notice that A3000(US) = V3067 (Europe)

    http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/receivers/rx-a3000

    As for blueray - I would certainly go with Opppo, which is the "bar" none

    the best universal; player money can buy.

    http://piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=121.451&id=2577〈=en〈=en

    or http://piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=121.451&id=2743〈=en〈=en

    Review here:

    http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/transports/oppo-bdp-93

    As for speakers - have you looked at Mordaunt Short Mezzo series?

    http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=115.209&id=2271&lan

    http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=115.209&id=2323〈=en〈=en

    The Mezzo 6 mightg be hard to get as they are selling out faster than produced..

    http://www.powerbuy.co.th/ProductDetailPage.aspx?Prod_Code=PWB000166919

    Review here:

    http://www.whathifi.com/review/mordaunt-short-mezzo-6

    http://www.hometheater.com/floorloudspeakers/908mor/

    As for SUB - I would strongly suggest you go with Paradigm DSP3200 v2.

    More power in sealed enclosure will not match sheer size..

    http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=122.211&id=1501〈=en〈=en

    Adding cost:

    Yamaha rx-v3067 : 62.900,-

    Oppo Blueray bdp 93: 19.900,-

    MS Mezzo -2: 14.900,-

    MS Mezzo -5: 10.900,-

    MS Mezzo -6: 26.900,-

    Subwoofer DSP 3200 27.900,-

    Total: 152.500,-

  4. I had the bdp83 SE anh had no problem updating to the latest firmware from www.oppodigital.com It didn't work via the network connection, but download the latest FW and follow the procedure updating from a memory stick. Else you should request the update from the vendor where you bought the unit. As a last resort contact www.oppodigital.com and request the update. They are very quick to respond.

  5. Astral...

    Been looking all over the web and at the owners thread, and have seen no mention of bad soldering. But I did see that there seem to be a problem with the NIC, after a certain fw update, but it seem to have been resolved with the latest firmware update. Best bet seem to be downloading the firmware update and use the USB update function.

    The problem that I see is the poweramp section (not only Denon) are struggeling with almost any highend speakers. So a poweramp is recommended.

    More functions, less weight same price = cutting cost somewhere. The Pre section gets real tangible improvements but the amp section is being skimped on. 7x125W = 2 ch driven @ 1KHz.

    :

    My old Yamaha max power consumption: 970W and have 2 x 18000 uF capacitors (7x 140W 20-20KHz) 19 kilos.

    New Yamaha max power consumption: 400W with 2 x 100000uF capacitors (7 x 140W @ 1KHz) 10.2 kilos.

    I think the old rule still applies - weight implies, solid amplification.

  6. I hope you finally will be able to enjoy the system - and I could not find any references to bad solder - looked in avs owners thread -google etc... Nada...none... Fiddling with the temp setting didn't help?...

    I think you got a "monday" edition...

  7. Had a HDMI input fail on an yamasha AVR fail and piyanas sent it back to yamaha themselves it took 2 weeks to fix and piyanas kept me informed with progress and cost by email and phone. As Yamaha is represented in thailand, I feel more confident buying their electronics, rather than a distributor - like Mahajak is for Denon.

    Ewww... bad solderings used to be a sony thing. And I wonder if the info is correct, as I can't seem to confirm that anywhere. with a problem like that, at least a whole batch must have same problems, so a recall might be warranted - bad solderings are going to haunt you / Mahajak for a long time....

    Sorry..did they replace the laser on your DVD?

  8. I think your best chance is here..

    Audio Excellence Co.,Ltd

    23,25 Mahaseth Road,Siphaya

    Bangrak,Bangkok 10500

    Tel:(662)266-3827.(662)6315375-76

    Fax:(662)266-3828

    PM me for their e-mail address

    They seem to be agents here in thailand

    http://www.audioexcellence.co.th/software/product/?cat=175〈=en

    or else buy arefoaming kit online ande have

    someone do the actual job.

  9. Not knowing where you stay, I cam most certainly help you

    if you are in the Pattaya area, but please give a bit more details

    about your home theater equipment (AVR etc.).

    A lot of times, you need to specify Sub output LFE (+main).

    PM me if you need further assistance.

    Prices given are indeed over the top...

  10. A friend and I might open an outlet in Pattaya, with select New stuff and quality 2nd. hand stuff.

    Have been in touch with Piyanas and Conice. Just wanted to hear some feedback - before rushing into

    anything.

  11. Not telling you to give up on your AVR, as it seem - all have their teething problems. With all the DSP's and advanced equalization, something will have to suffer and these highly complex AVR's have more processing power than most workstastions do.

    It seems that more and more channels are added, which should add to cost, and at the same time most vendors are locked @ different price levels.

    Most AVR's have problems with hdmi switching and a simple heatsink on the scaler chip could solve most problems. Onkyo had such a problem, where the Reon HQV chip. The chip would end up @ 70 degrees celcius and the "famous" green lines would appear.

    Adding a simple heatsink lowered the temp to 43 degrees. The onkyo have overheating probs, but it was the HDMI chip / board that overheated - not the amp section.

    The old rule still applies - KISS, the most problem free AVR that I have encountered is the Marantz SR6003 - It simply works.

  12. I would cautionously recommend the Marantz AV7005.

    http://us.marantz.com/us/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=AVSeparates&ProductId=AV7005

    The reason for "concern" - it's built upon the SR7005, which except

    for faceplate is identical to denon 3311ci.

    But so far, not a lot of problems have been reported with that one.

    One have to question the price though.. Why is less more expensive??

    Either the amp section in AVR's are really cheap - or the pre/pro's have

    better internal components.

    I also feel that Yamaha's AVR saeries are better than Denons lately.

  13. A valueable ressorce for Denon AVR owners.

    http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html

    And it seems that it's music performance is

    not that great either.

    http://www.cnet.com.au/denon-avr-3311-339308669.htm

    I think someone gave you a "good" one, concerning the temp

    adjustment. But increasing the temp limit, might harm the unit, and

    heat shouldn't be an issue as you're using it as a pre/pro.

    My guess is that Mahajak did a microprocessor reset.

    Yet another potential issue:

    http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1300240

  14. Sorry to hear about problems and just to let you know that

    Proper HDMI switching have plagued a lot of avr's.And sometimes the issues are resolved via firmware upgrades and sometimes not. That's why I usually choose an

    AVR with a "track record" - read older.

    A small trick to keep your Denon colder would be, bypass the video processing functions of the avr, and use it only as a hub, to pass the video signal right through, as most players today already have such scalers built in.

    Temp setting??? never heard about that one?? - but maybe the impdedance switch have bheen set to 4 ohms..which in my book would offer no tangible benefit as you use the unit as pre/pro only.

    Once you get the oppo, I can assure you that want to bypass the whole video processing on your denon. ;) - Rock on.

  15. Most AVR's can handle 4 ohm fronts, but once you connect multiple speakers, they all seem to recommend 8-16 ohm. Many AVR's have "impedance switches", which will severely limit the current drawn. Most quality speakers are unfortunately rated at 4 ohms and even 8 ohm speakers usually have nasty dips into 3 ohms region, in the lower freq range, which in some cases can be offset by adding a powered subwoofer, and set the xover @ the critical point, but no doubt the AVR's are skimping on the amp section, but offer more features - hence the slimming down. Most people would be shocked to find out that their 7x140W, in reality would be 7 x 30W all channels driven.

    Most vendors are also testing with 1 channel only and 6 ohm (onkyo). I only know three companies that dare to talk about "true" multichannel performance. NAD lives up to their claimed spec and usually don't bother about impedance. Marantz have a 65% guarantee (running multichannel) you get 65% of paper specs and finally Harman Kardon who have always been conservative in their specs.

    When looking - look at max power consumption, a Harman Kardon 1272W (rated 7x80W) weight 20 kilos

    another leading brand : 400W (rated 7x 140w) weighs 10.2 kilo. but with tons of features that HK don't have. If the device isn't class D the old rule still applies - a serious amp is heavy.

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