Jump to content

JackA

Member
  • Posts

    111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by JackA

  1. I think something "funky" is going on with AVR's - they seem to have better specs, but "slim" down significantly... I had an Yamaha RX-v2700, which had no trouble handling my Dynaudio speakers 4 ohm (3.2 min). I later "upgraded" to a Denon 4308A,shich would shut down on me @ -10dB. I ended up selling the Denon and get the yamaha z7, which basically was an "updated" version of the rx-v2700. Skimping on PSU and capacitance is never a good idea... I am dissapointed in the "evolvement" of AVR's.... now I have an older Denon 4306, which is being used as a pre/pro with a McIntosh amplifier. I have compared my old Denon to virtually every brand out there and found none that match the sound quality of that oldie Denon (IMHO). And I just got the Oppo Bdp 95, which works fantastic as a D/A converter - and can playback flac directly from a HDD... Now the oppo is the centerpiece in my setup.

  2. I've had two Vulcan Classic 800A's (first one stolen) and can attest to the quality of the bike. Been everywhere on these bikes - and never had a problem with either of them, but the new 900 is even better with EFI and belt drive and more CC's.

    I would love to take the new vulcan for a spin, but as I just "upgraded" my old classic to a VStar 1100 Classic, I will have to wait a while before I'll get the joy of belt drive + EFI.

    This should get you started:

    http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2010-kawasaki-vulcan-900-ar70282.html

    http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/162/6064/Motorcycle-Article/2010-Kawasaki-Vulcan-900-Custom-Comparison.aspx

  3. The way I usually determine what is + / - on a speaker is:

    Connect a cable to each terminal - connect 1 cable to the - of they battery

    and then "tap" the other cable to the + end of the battery, and notice in

    what direction the tweeter membrane goes - if it goes inward the cable connected

    to the - on the battery is + and if it moves outward, then it's opposite.

    Might be hard to determine though.

    And yes - if you change the phase on a tweeter, you might get very unexpected results.

    and if both aren't connected the same way you might get some sound cancellation resulting

    in bad sound.

    By the way, can't you find the tweeter on the internet to get the info required???

    JackA

  4. Most Class D amplifiers are autosensing the voltage and will usually accept 100-240V, please state the brand of the Danish Class D amp. Lyngdorf? - GamuT?

    What model is the Adcom? - and what does the "heavy modded" include?

  5. Wonder if Q-Acoustics might be something to consider - they won some awards and are very "wallet friendly", can be had at Piyanas,

    http://www.piyanas.com/product.php?cat=487.490〈=en

    Authorized dealer is found here:

    http://www.intennia.com/product_qacoustics.html

    Here their main website:

    http://www.qacoustics.co.uk/2000/2010.htm

    Here is a "head to head" between Q-Acoustics and Wharfedale.

    http://www.smarthouse.com.au/Reviews/Home_Cinema/V8C2H8Q7

  6. To test whether the True HD box really do simultaneous composite and HDMI output, you need to connect both outputs to your TV set and switch between HDMI and composite (Yellow cable) - if both have picture then you're okay with the way it's setup.

    Usually component is 3 cables (not including audio) and is usually color coded Red, Green and Blue (RGB). - The single cable is is composite and if you want to record anything - I would strongly suggest that you use at least component, if the True HD have such connections available (5 cables - incl. audio), as you get much improved picture quality.

    As I don't have a true HD box, and I see that it have HDMI + composite, I presume it will have a built in scaler, so as long as it outputs simultaneously from HDMI and composite, I really don't see anything wrong with your setup as such (Except that going component from DVD to TV and The True BOX would improve picture quality both when you record but also when you playback).

    The difference between composite and component is quite significant.

  7. Thinking of getting new / secondhand / fixing / records???

    Got some time on my hand, and wanted to help out fellow board members (if this one is conflicting with the pinned - please feel free to remove this list, or add it to the one that is being compiled (I am in no shape or form affiliated with any of the listed sites), and this list should be considered "as is", so whatever you buy or get fixed, please don't blame me for any bad experiences - but rather post it here (so others can be forewarned / recommended).

    New stuff:

    http://www.kssons.com (McIntosh / Audio Research / Pass Labs)

    http://www.conice.co.th (NAD / NHT / PSB / Velodyne)

    http://www.hifitower.co.th (Roksan / Wharfedale / Audiolab)

    http://www.elpashaw.com (Thiel / Dynaudio / Musical Fidelity / SimAudio)

    http://www.btp.co.th/gav/index.php?Products (Krell / Wilson Audio / Jeff Rowland Design Group)

    http://www.komfortsound.com (Von Schweikert / Valve)

    http://www.mrzstandard.com/index_electric.asp (Marantz / Mordaunt Short / Klipsch)

    http://imhex.com (Magico / Vandersteen / Spectral / Conrad Johnson / Theta / Magnepan)

    http://www.audiocomgroup.com (Usher / Lamm / Wilson Benesch / Hansen Audio / Peachtree Audio)

    http://www.save-av.com/index.shtml (ProAc / GamuT / Bryston / Tannoy / Revel / Mark Levinson)

    http://www.audioillusion-th.com (Dussun / Aurum Cantus)

    http://www.asavasopon.co.th/content_en.php (Bose)

    http://www.ultimatist.com (Almarro / Cain & Cain / Omega Speaker Systems)

    http://www.piyanas.com (Most Commercial Brands)

    http://www.powerbuy.co.th (Most Commercial Brands)

    http://www.pphifi.com (Most Commercial Brands)

    http://www.avvalue.co.th (Most Commercial Brands)

    2nd Hand:

    http://www.hiendoption.com

    http://www.teraudio.com

    http://siamshop1431.tarad.com/

    http://www.misterbalance.com/index.php?cPath=21

    Fix / DIY / Accessories:

    http://www.zeer-audio.com/

    http://www.yak-audio.com

    http://www.shopallaudio.com/

    http://www.blacksheepkable.com/

    http://www.puristaudiodesign.com/

    http://www.prsacoustic.com/

    http://www.suvarnabhumiaudio.com/

    LP's EP's CD's (Vintage -> New)

    http://www.recordhunter.net/

    MP Audio Shop: 0863793240

    Phew.....

  8. This is probably one of the best sites out there - excellent source of technical information:

    http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm

    Amplifier Distortion, DC-Offset, and You!

    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634

    Amplifier Sensitivity, Decibels, and You!

    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=58829

    Why 4 Ohm Loads Stress Your Amplifier

    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=60386

    (All thanks the the respective owners of the subjects).

    I almost exhausted my "secret sources" - hope to see additions, which can be added to my "library".

  9. Here are some Audio Test CD's (freeware as well) - Please be careful with the volume, as most of these are frequency, noise and sweep related - adjust the volume to a "safe level" before spinning them:

    Bink's Test CD

    http://www.4horsemen.net/binkster/full_cd.zip

    DIY Audio Test CD:

    http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/4570217/Ultimate_Test_CD.4570217.TPB.torrent

    Jarrod Christman Test DVD:

    http://jarrodchristman.com/AudioTestDVDv2.exe

  10. Here is a "speaker buyers guide" - with a lot of good information a whopping 37Mb free PDF for you to enjoy:

    http://media.avguide.com/Loudspeakers_Buyers_Guide.pdf

    Hi-Fi Tips and hints by A.J. van den Hul:

    http://www.vandenhul.com/userfiles/docs/Hi-Fi_Tips_and_Hints.pdf

    Let this XLS sheet help make an optimal placement in your room (Sound Map)

    http://www.sound-map.com/images/1148524043/Smart%20Stereo%20Setup%20V0705-29EN.xls

    Make your own high end speaker cables:

    http://www.audiyo.com/pdf/CC89259_John_Risch_Speaker_Cables.pdf

    A valuable resource for anything Hi-Fi:

    http://www.audioholics.com/education

    There are so many free resources for information - so I list the first ones - if anyone would have more - please share them.

  11. Or maybe this would be something?

    If you're interested I can hook you up, PM me for details - and it's not me selling.

    You have to do the hard work yourself.

    The guy wants 45K, but I'm sure it's negotiable. He is in Bangkok.

    Adcom 5802 : 2 x 300W

    By the way - I bought the 2 x Bryston 4BSST - so they are not available

    anylonger, but it must have been a coincidence as the seller lived less

    than 100 meters from me.

    And these guys might help you with crossovers etc.

    http://suvarnabhumiaudio.com/

    Good luck!

    post-2747-098477300 1278688193_thumb.jpg

  12. Actually I auditioned the speakers at the dealer, the source for them were Marantz, AV8003+MM8003 with a Denon Multiplayer.

    As I have the unit myself (Oppo), with everything audio, I use only analog interconnects MultiCh and Stereo, but use HDMI for picture (scaling only) and both coax and toslink is left untouched.

    But with the clever input assignment, of current AVR's anything is possible.

    By the way, the Yamaha might not drive the Dyns very well, they are all 4-6 Ohms. (Rotel, Arcam and NAD will).

    I just have a beef with those impedance ratings, as even "8 ohms" speakers have serious dips in the lower regions, many even dipping the 3 Ohm range. The impedance rating is not a static resistive load, but changes dramatically along the frequency range. Most 8 ohm speakers are really 4-6, so be warned about the stated impedance and check some reviews, as some do contain measurements - which are quite interesting.

  13. I listened to some select songs from the following albums.

    Diana Krall (Live In Paris),

    Alan Taylor Behind The Mix,

    The Nordic Sound 2L,

    Ella Fitzgerald Songbooks,

    Nat King Cole Unforgettable with Love (JazzPlanet)

    Fleetwood Mac Tusk (Remastered)

    Eagles hel_l Freezes Over

    Sarah McLachlan The Freedom Sessions

    Enya Watermark (Reissue)

    Get all your Oppo info here:

    http://piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=121.451&id=1903〈=en〈=en *Standard version

    http://piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=121.451&id=2260〈=en〈=en *Special Edition

    Not much difference from US prices.

  14. Strangely enough, the Oppo BDP83-SE bluray player is actually mostly recognized for it's audio properties, with the new 32bit shark D/A on the analog outputs. It's a nice all in one package, with some of the best technologies available today on both the video side (ABT 2010) and with the SE it have the Shark D/A on both analog multi and stereo.

    For me it was a "no brainer" - I could remove 3 "boxes" - and replace them with this single unit, and it does everything better than the 3 separate boxes (but that don't say much, as those 3 boxes would be considered "budget units"). The speed of the player is unsurpassed, in detecting media.

    That aside, I actually had an audition of a "mixed" Dynaudio 5+1 setup (Focus 110 + Excite x12 + Excite X22) - initially it sounded "wrong" - probably due to the levels, but after running Audyssey - it was stunning, tuneful without any strain and goose bump warnings everywhere.

    The bass was very real, albeit not much lower than 50Hz, but their "heritage" showed, and the mid + high were goose bump inducing.

  15. Klipsch do have a following, but mostly their old K-Horns, the newer RF-series are "overwhelming" and "bombastic" a real "party speaker" - with their "voicing" on the cool side due to the their horn laden nature, and produce a LOT OF BASS. They are very efficient and don't require a lot of amplification to make them "sing" >96dB W/M, and changing source equipment won't really change their character once you reach a certain level.

    I categorize those as "teenage speakers", because they are great for Rock/Electronics/Dance, and don't require expensive source equipment to sound "impressive", but don't expect refinement.

    But as Piyanas have them - if you want to expose them - try Diana Krall, or any voice that you're familiar with, and you'll know exactly what I mean.

  16. I presume that a single cable would be enough to each room as you can expand with switches, and if you're looking to 1080p I suggest that you install Gigabit switches everywhere. Installed these with Cat 5 Plus and it's no problem running Gigabit. If you really want the expensive Cat 6-7 cables, the benefit would only be at the equipment that can utilize that speed, which I think would be PC's / Laptops. Most peripherals do only support 100Mbit, but it's adviceable to install Gigabit switches everywhere - so multiple 100Mbit connections are possible without any real bottlenecks. Good Luck!

×
×
  • Create New...