JackA

In that case, may I suggest that you take a hard look at the Dynaudio Focus 110, which seems tailored for your requirements, much more so than the Excite x16, Even though it's miniscule, the sound is not.

You really need to give them an audition, right next to the X16, and I'm sure you will agree, seeing that your room is quite small, floorstanding speakers probably would be too much of a good thing.

Just to keep you going:

http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Dynaudio-Focus-110/

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1208/dynaudio_focus_110.htm

http://www.audioreview.com/mfr/dynaudiousa/floorstanding-speakers/focus-110-/PRD_342780_1594crx.aspx

http://www.avforums.com/forums/speakers/409944-dynaudio-focus-110-brief-review.html

http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=488.489&id=2198〈=en〈=en

I think you'll get the picture - while the Excite X16 is physically larger, the Focus 110 spanks it

left and right - including a LOT of bigger speakers as well. - Give them a listen!!!

Since my all time favorite standmount Contour 1.3SE is not in production anymore, the Focus 110 are the ones

that I'm eying for surround duties.

A note on those "speaker packages" - I think they fall under the category of "style speakers", a compromise for small rooms where sheer size is important (WAF factor as well), but not really meant for room filling auditions, I am certain that you'll end up disappointed though - give them a listen and see yourself amazed of the sound (because you automatically take their size into consideration). They are a compromise and as long as you take them for what they are - give them a spin - usually optimized for HT use - not critical stereo performances.

About the Focus FS series, I think you can "cut" them as well, as they are easily outside of your budget (unless you go for the clones, which are very good).

About Vienna - I've only listened to their Bach (Signatures), which sounded great, but I've never heard them in a 5.1 setup.

Whenever you audition speakers, you need to take note of what source equipment is used, as that can have a profound influence.

(most rooms are probably treated, so is less of a factor).

Magnepan distributor in Thailand:

Tel. 0-2102-2211-2

http://www.save-av.com/product_speaker.shtml#magnapan

Sonus Faber's philosophy is quite unlike "Everyone" else, where their speakers are built like "instruments",

so the cabinets are giving acoustic resonances adding to the owerall sound, giving the SF "house sound".

Good speaker though, but not a great all rounder, depends on your preference - mostly VIFA and Scanspeak

drivers. (These are usually in the either "love or hate" catagory, well worth a listen - they might hit

your weak spot - seems to be best suited for "small ensemble music".

Mordaunt Short Aviano, is not the best from Mordaunt Short, if you want a better performing speaker I think you

should look into the Mordaunt Short Mezzo series, which is sounding a fair bit better than the Aviano, as they

"Aviano" sounds exciting, bombastic but really bright - and not what some would consider Hi-Fi.

http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Mordaunt-Short-Aviano-51/

http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Mordaunt-Short-Mezzo-51/

http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Mordaunt-Short-Mezzo-6/

I'm not going to talk about B&W because I'm going to get slaughtered, but will just note the following: B&W

in Thailand has a very poor price / performance ratio, compared to other brands @ level prices. But of the ones

that you mentioned, the CM series is head and shoulders above the other mentioned B&W speakers.

On the 600 series, I would suggest that you chose the B&W 683 as fronts instead of the 684.

Paradigm are very good value for money, and might very well be considered as one of the top choices, with

excellent stereo performance as well as 5.1 sound - but very close to Dynaudio in price

I literally was "captured" to audition the Focus Audio FC Series, when Piyanas got the authorized reseller status,

and the FC series is good, but nowhere near the FS series. Still well worth an audition.

As I see it - you really need to go to piyanas, as they have most of the "interesting" brands that

you list, B&W, Paradigm, Dynaudio, Focus Audio and Sonus Faber.

Also worth considering : Usher / Von Schweikert / ProAc / Totem / Revolver

If you like "Hands on user reviews" - use this valuable resource : http://www.audioreview.com

Search for every brand of speaker, and you'll see the comments. I usually sort by WORST ratings.

Good luck!

Just a small thing - I think if you use the analog out on the Denon you're utilizing the D/A converter in the Denon whereas you use the "optical out" or "Coxial" then you use the D/A converter in the preamp / receiver (just saying...).

So if the best D/A converter is in the Player - use analog out, if it's in the preamp/amp - by all means use either coax or optical out.

Sell them under classifieds here or let me know how much you expect, maybe I can hook you up!

Just a question, because of the age, I must ask you if you have given them an overhaul, meaning

tubes and capacitors (which both will fail due to age and usage).

Anyway - nice equipment, and they should, as long as they are mint give you a nice payout.

Prices are hard to tell, with equipment like this - you have to "put them out there" and wait

until you find someone who knows and appreciates classic pieces like these.

If you really need an idea about price, I would suggest that you check on "audiogon" bluebook, which tells

you the average price for any equipment.

JackA

You will need the original windows cd - open up the recovery console and delete the pagefile.

Once you have done that - run a chkdsk /r (also in recovery console, let it complete) - then perform a reboot.

Good luck.

(Don't worry your data will be okay - but try deleting the pagefile first.)

JackA!

What is the point of deleting the pagefile and why do you propose to do that and run chkdsk /r before you make a backup?

You need to be careful with other peoples data!!! It may be important!!!

I wouldn't touch the drive at all, without first backing it up.

Obviously there are no other backups... so backup is the first priority.

When the data is safe somewhere else, then you can play around as much as you like...

Martin

Well of course you're right, but when a pc is prematurely losing power while shutting down the pagefile is usually the last thing written to -

and if the pagefile is corrupt, your computer might not be able to start at all, and please inform me - since we have no information on error messages

or anything else for that matter if a drive is "unmountable" - due to shutdown error - how are you going to backup that drive?

But the easiest way is to remove the drive - buy a new drive install windows on that new drive and use the old drive as an external USB drive -

where you can safely access your data - presuming the drive is intact as suggested - no need to backup - you leave the original untouched.

First you need to make sure that the system is really OFF - before anything remove power supply cable and remove the battery from the notebook (VAIO - presumed it is a notebook?) - and then put back the battery and start - it that works, great - if not then - the "procedure" to get it running again is pretty simple.

You will need the original windows cd - open up the recovery console and delete the pagefile.

Once you have done that - run a chkdsk /r (also in recovery console, let it complete) - then perform a reboot.

Good luck.

(Don't worry your data will be okay - but try deleting the pagefile first.)

Oh I thought you called Conice - well here is their number.... 02-2769644

And here is the product:

NAD T785 A/V Surround Sound Receiver Upgraded

Sorry, I thought that I mentioned their website in an earlier mail.

Have anyone of you heard about the "loudness war"? - Basically what is happening is that the recording engineer boost the music to be "louder" - by compressing the dynamic range and boosting the overall sound level. I have wondered for quite a while, why most modern recordings are all very loud, but without the dynamics, until I read this piece:

The Loudness War Analyzed « Music Machinery

Loudness war - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

So basically the mass produced CD's are all leveled to some degree, and thus while overall it's louder, the dynamics suffer, which probably is one of many reasons, why many prefer Vinyl to CD's.

The result by manipulating the sound this way is: Louder, less dynamic - the "reality" of instruments are not there, as the sound is leveled so the dynamic range will be within 6dB, which is ridiculous. I always wondered what was behind the term "audiophile" CD. But once I bought some, I must admit that I didn't realize that music could sound this way, where drum and snares really takes authority and where a slam is a slam.

With our passion for "neutral" and revealing sound systems, the term "garbage in" "garbage out" is taken to a whole new level.

So when we buy a record, have the dynamic range been altered? - most likely - keep that in mind next time you go shopping and wonder why your system just don't give you the "like being there" feeling.

End of rant.

The NAD distributor is here: www.conice.co.th, who I feel are some of the nicest people to do business with.

On the other hand - I would stay away from Arcam, been looking into their AVR's as well - and even though

they are considered in line with Rotel, I feel the "value" just isn't there. I had the DiVA A90, and while

it was quite nice, the support for the product was less than stellar.

As for speakers, I'll tell you upfront that I'm BIASED, so "I" wouldn't consider Wharfedale

for anything else but a nice home theater system.

I would rather look into: Dynaudio Excite X32: http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Dynaudio-Excite-X32/

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/speakersystems/dynaudio_excite_speaker_system/

Can be auditioned here: Piyanas Electrics

Unlike what one would think, the X32 is MUCH better than the X36 - and there's ample choice for center and surround

speakers.

(BIAS) put aside:

Focus Audio: Piyanas Electrics : à¤Ã×èͧàÊÕ§, áÍÁ»ì, ÅÓ⾧, home theater

ATC are VERY nice speakers as well, but usually with quite a "sticker shock".

MAGNEPLANAR 1.6 QR can be had 2nd hand for around 50-60K

Vienna Acoustic Bach can be had for around 40-50K 2nd hand.

PMC and Splendor are also some speakers you might consider (if you can find them)

but again - no words are good enough to describe sound - and we all have different ears and ideas,

so you need to spend time auditioning - remember to bring some of your own music which

you know. If you ever get around Pattaya area, you are more than welcome to pass

and have a coffee and an "earful".

I would look into one of the bigger NAD AVR's, as they neither have "pure" or "direct", but rather a "HT Bypass" function. the T775 and T785 comes to mind. They do live up to their specs concerning power output, unlike most other brands and with NAD you don't have to worry about speaker impedance either - The video capabilities are not so "hot", but they do offer "upgrades" via slot in cards so you can get excellent video upscaling as well for a price of course.

Some reviews:

NAD T785 A/V Surround Sound Receiver Reviewed

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/tests-reviews/receivers/2009/12/nad-t785-av-receiver

Concerning the Pioneer AVR's - the bigger ones are all class d amplified (ice amps) - and from my experience do have some problems especially with low impedance speakers and their LED's and display fail at an alarming rate:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/receivers/pioneer-sc-07 which in thailand is called LX-81

With speakers, what is your preference, except from electrostats? - Do you prefer soft domes, metal domes?

Warm / neutral / cool / analytic sound???

Here is another place:

wave_160x600

wave_160x600

Happy hunting - by the way - I'm looking for the Access Virus Synth.

You need a CD burner program - for example Nero Burning ROM, from there you'll choose -> create Audio CD, then drag the MP3 files you want to burn into the Audio CD, and you'll see that the CD is not limited by space but rather time. The actual conversion from MP3 to audio cd - you don't need to worry about.

So (For Nero / Windows) -> Start -> Programs -> Nero -> Nero Burning ROM .. Once the Nero window opens - choose Create AudioCD -> Drag the MP3 files you want to burn (keep the time below 70 mins)

Once done - burn it - and for "best quality" it's recommenced to keep it at 24x or below.

Just bought a Sony 40" LCD with Bravia Engine 3, and paid 25.800,- incl VAT normal price was 29.990,- so haggling exists,

I bought it for the bedroom - and I will say the Sony is very comparable to my Samsung in picture quality.

Thanks for great input. yes, power can become a problem. i might get 8 ohm speakers for the front and back and a 4 ohm sub. or 4 ohm for front and sub and 8 ohm for the back. also, i can add a power amp to the pre out if need be. feedback on these ideas are welcome.

I would presume that you would want a powered subwoofer - and thus you can disregard the impedance on that - as you'll use LFE / SUB out. - In order for you to get the "best" surround performance - you'll see that most would get the same brand & series for the most important speakers Front L+R and Center, because the "timbre" will match - meaning if a voice pan from L->C->R or vice versa, the voice will sound the same no matter where it focused.

The rear speakers on the other hand - is IHMO much less important. In movie performance the Center RULES.

I just want to add - that most receivers, might have difficulties with 4 ohm speakers, so I think you need to look into that as well.

Coming from a Yamaha Z7, I can tell you that one of the differences from the rx-v3900 is the ability to adjust the properties of the

ABT2010 scaler which is they both share. But they are in fact very similar and my z7 didn't have any problems running the 4 ohms dynaudio, BUT! I only have 2 speakers, as you increase the the amount of speakers, you'll most certainly look into 8 ohm speakers, because I managed to

make my z7 trip the protection - when I added a 6 ohm center speaker. And the powersupply on the Z7 is supposedly "beefed" up from the rx-v3900.

I'm certain you'll meet a meltdown, if you get 5.1 speakers with 4 ohm - the Yamaha will not do it. And as no impedence is linear, watch out for those dips that usually happens in the lower frequency range.

I will give you *my* advice here:

1. Marantz 5003 (I presume you would look into AVR, as you mention 5.1)

http://www.powerbuy.co.th/ProductDetailPag...de=PWB000166925

For:

- Great audio performance

- Great price and the wattage is "right on"

- Great surround performance and have room EQ (Audyssey MultiEQ).

Against:

- No RoomEQ decoding while TrueDTS

- Not a lot of DSP's

- Limited upscaling (ichips)

2. Speakers:

- Front - Mordaunt Short Aviano 6

http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?c...=en〈=en

More expensive in UK and but still get 5 stars

http://www.whathifi.com/Review/Mordaunt-Short-Aviano-6/

- Rear - Mordaunt Short Aviano 2

http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?c...=en〈=en

- Center - Mordaunt Short Aviano 5

http://www.piyanas.com/productdetail.php?c...=en〈=en

- Subwoofer: (this is probably where I would wait - as the aviano 6 have plenty).

Paradigm DSP3100/3200/3400.

And last but not least:

Oppo BDP83 (Standard) - have impeccable picture ABT 2010 scaler, and great sound (which you can upgrade later if needed be) - BUT!

if using only digital connection - then there will be no difference between regular and special edition.

http://piyanas.com/productdetail.php?cat=1...=en〈=en

Now let's put the prices together:

Marantz SR5003 : 23.900,-

MS Aviano 6 Speakers Front: 16.900,- (Timbre matching important) so you need to keep within the brand/series.

MS Aviano 2 Speakers Rear : 8.900,-

MS Aviano 5 Center : 6.900,-

Oppo BDP83 Bluray SACD: 19.900,-

Total: 76.500,-

So there's plenty of room for adding a great subwoofer or power amplifier if needed.

Mind you though - MOST IMPORTANTLY - As no pair of ears are created equal - you should disregard everything I suggested - and get off your butt and audition many systems - Go to Piyanas and have them demonstrate the whole thing (but they don't have the Marantz SR5003 - they have the 5004, but sound signature is pretty much the same). As long as the money is in your pocket, time is on your side - spend that time wisely and you'll end up happy for a long time.

The reason I avoid the newer Marantz model is:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1179621

How do these Marantz and Denon's top end universal players compare with OPPO?

http://us.marantz.com/Products/2936.asp

http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/4760.asp

I bet you're not paying for brand with these models? They sell for close to 200K baht in Thailand. Heard their SACD playback is pretty good, yet they are still considerably cheaper than my 2 channels, SACD/CD-only player. Problem with those universal player is that they take too much time in discerning what disc you've inserted. My Pioneer LX-52 doesn't play SACD or DVD-A but it takes so much time from when you insert the disc till anything appears on TV. And takes too much time from when you turn the power on till it is ready to receive any command by remote.

As I might be considered biased (by owning one), I think you might find the answer to your question somewhere among these:

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-83/...-83-Review.aspx

I'm very happy with the player - now if it had any inputs - it would be "perfect" - those ESS DACS are seriously good, and I'll bet that you'll see some highend DAC's coming to market based on the ESS chipsets. McIntosh have also chosen ESS DACS for their transport (MCD500).

The most important thing for me was - the ability to replace the need for separate CD, DVD, SACD, DVD-A and Blu-ray players,

without compromising too much on either audio and video. I chose the SE part, for the simple reason that the extra 10.000 baht

was cheap considering the alternative of buying a separate SACD player - and what 10.000,- baht SACD player would I be able to

get anyway? - But you're right - going pure digital - there's absolutely NO difference between the Standard / SE / NE.

In other words - I care mostly about the SQ, whereas the VQ is an added bonus for me - For you it seems OPPOsite, with

the VQ part being important (I don't even have a surround system).

As for the "clones" - we all know that the level of "diminishing returns" are reached fairly quickly in the A/V world, so I have no

problems with companies do their tweaking, or even double wrap it - it's just a testament of how good the Oppo really is.

The McIntosh Ltd blokes will have a heart attack! One of their beauties dumped on the TV cabinet?! Come on....let's go equipment stand shopping. Get yourself to hi-fi centre where the workmen copy some of the established brands for a fraction of the price.

I like the look of your sub. How does the system sound on tiled flooring though, or do you have a big rug to absorb the high frequencies?

Gis' a listen!

Well - I have ordered our local "furniture guy" to come and remove the tv cabinet - to make room for something better - and there's someone doing hifi furniture (KTT).

I have no rugs - but I think the hard tiled floors are least of my problems - the glass cabinets all around is a much bigger issue.

If you notice - my choice of components are all on the "neutral/warm" side and actually the system sounds quite good @ low volume, I've yet to "crank" it up, so consider my answer "incomplete". What you can't see is the opposing wall, which have windows as well, but everything is "curtained up" and beside a coffee table - there's leather furniture.

Well after having owned several subs, the Klipsch have been the easiest *for me* to integrate into my system - and the room correction works.

If any of you guys have an AVR, and considering getting a high quality transport, everything is not lost - you can bypass all the AVR processing by using the MCH (Front L / R) - this is the only real analog domain within your AVR - try it and notice the difference it makes.

(before plugging anything - check if there's any sensitivity differences between the inputs). By using the MCH - your AVR should basically work like an "attenuator" only - using any other input, the AVR will do D/A conversion (Even if pure mode is enabled).

Some higher end AVR's do bypass the internal DAC's (NAD / ARCAM) - but most don't. I believe that it's called (EXT IN).

Ok, now you guys can "rip me a new one"....

Nice. How have you configured the wiring? Does your Marantz have pre out to bypass its power or are you using two amps (bi-amping) to drive the Contour?

I'm using the preout on the Marantz - with Townshend Isolda DCT300 cables (same kind of cables run to the Bluray).

As all Dynaudio only have single posts, it's not possible to biamp. - And running Isolda Speaker cables (with zobel netowrk)

to the McIntosh.

As the Marantz have the possibility to disable it's internal AMPS, it's working great as a Pre/Pro...

Here is the end result : McIntosh MC252 - Marantz SR6003 - Oppo BDP83 SE - Dynaudio Contour 3.3 & Klipsch RT-10D,

thanks to everyone for advice. Now time for listening!!!

So the Oppo BDP 83 SE have arrived, but unfortunately something else have:

"Oppo Clones" - and it seems all are built upon the Oppo BDP 83 *not SE.

Prices for: Oppo BDP 83 : 499USD

Oppo BDP 83 SE : 899 USD

Differences between SE and Non SE

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-83S...Comparison.aspx

Here are some - and we start with the most "blatant" ripoff ever seen:

Lexicon BD30:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/transpo...xicon-outside-1

Talk about "double boxing" - price : 3500 USD..

Another hiend brand : Theta Compli Blu

http://www.avrev.com/forum/blu-ray-players...adged-oppo.html

They changed box as well and changed the powersupply to a toroidal one.

Price : 2995,- (Initially 4995,-), but once the truth was known it was reduced.

Last but not least:

Ayre DX-5, which might really have some changes done, but at a premium.

http://www.avrev.com/forum/blu-ray-players...d-500-oppo.html

Yup... it will set you back a cool 10.000 bucks...

Keep this in mind when you go shopping..... (I just got my Oppo BDP83 SE, and while it's a great

player - even the upgraded version have the dreaded NEC5532 OPAMPS).

But really, for the price it's a great buy - and even 2 channel "audiophiles" might consider this one.

Another question - any specific reason you're looking at Jamo? - I'm not sure that they would have anything that is "rugged".

I would seriously look into :

http://www.hifitower.co.th/products.php?cat1=7&cat2=39

Wharfedale - semi professional - rugged and no real sticker shock.

And from what I've read - actually - for music, the Marantz SR5003

is pretty hard to beat - As both Denon and Marantz (D&M Holdings)

Denon have more features - but for music - you get a better receiver

in the Marantz SR5003.

http://www.powerbuy.co.th/ProductDetailPag...de=PWB000166925

Avoid SR5004 / 6004 as both suffers from "POD" (Pop of Death - Even though they are newer).

Streamer : The WDTV Live HD Media Player is right now on sale 4.990,- baht (that one is hard to beat....).

http://www.wdtvlive.com/products/wdtv_live#highlights - have network capability and with the "right" dongle it is also WIFI capable.

Unless you want to take the hassle out of the whole thing and go with a

full SONOS setup - I'm not sure Logitech is available in Thailand.

(I don't work for either - but MY observations). - happy hunting...

I presume you're looking for Western Music - and yes there is a whole lot of

both 2nd hand and new Vinyl records.

Can PM you the info, if needed...

But there are shops in BKK that is specialized in Vinyl - so don't worry, but

the latest music might not be there though.