Jan Dietz
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Posts posted by Jan Dietz
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If you can make it into a doctor's office on your own, you can eliminate most of the list. Any hospital should be able to provide you with a signed piece of paper for this.
It is the same list Thailand uses to get a work permit.
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If it's in the device being charged, you don't measure it in this scenario.
If it's in the power supply, you will measure average voltage, as the multimeter doesn't respond quick enough to show the PWM.
Anyway, for this to happen there will be additional negotiations between the device and charger, and the OP wants to discuss a SMPS, not a charger.
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The only way for a power supply to limit current ("put out less") is to drop voltage. ( I = U / R ).
If your Android device is running and the voltage is still within a few percent of 5, it is putting out the 2A.
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Then again 5V 2A (10W) is about nothing, and any switcher made in the last 10 years should easily do that without letting out its magic smoke.
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You will still need a way to load the power supply with 2 amps somehow. If you have a way to do that (lights, phone, random stuff) you can measure the amperage with the multimeter in series, and if you're happy you're drawing 2A, measure the voltage under load and see if it still is within specs.
(+) -- (Multimeter in Amp range) -- (Load)--- (-)
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Volt meter, Amp meter and 2A load (10W resistor or a few lights), measure Amps and at 2A voltage drop should be within nominal.
This will get you into the ballpark:
https://th.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/1073302
Little cheap meter you can leave in circuit:
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Why does the link www.railway.co.th actually link to facebook?
more tracking needed?
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Nice project!
Only think I'd consider, when using something as powerful as an ESP-8266, is to get rid of the additional controller.
You would need a level shifter and maybe some more I/O ports.. and these are available all on nice chip:
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA6408A.pdf
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I received the tiny little boards I linked above and they work very nicely. Was a bit of a pain to track down the correct connections, but here it is:
https://github.com/Heltec-Aaron-Lee/WiFi_Kit_series/blob/master/PinoutDiagram/WIFI Kit 8.pdf
Works fine with the Adafruit library
#include <SPI.h> #include <Wire.h> #include <ESP8266WiFi.h> #include <Adafruit_GFX.h> #include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h> #define SCREEN_WIDTH 128 // OLED display width, in pixels #define SCREEN_HEIGHT 32 // OLED display height, in pixels #define OLED_RESET 16 // Reset pin # (or -1 if sharing Arduino reset pin) // Declaration for an SSD1306 display connected to I2C (SDA, SCL pins) Adafruit_SSD1306 display(SCREEN_WIDTH, SCREEN_HEIGHT, &Wire, OLED_RESET); void setup() { display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C); // 0x3C is address of the display display.display; }
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Just FYI and to whoever is interested in this stuff, I just ordered a handful of these thingies to play with:
https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i1510560958-s3992606381.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1?
The price is right and saves making patch boards.
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Could be an overload on start up, maybe disk drives or fans getting sticky when cold.
Second time 'round they'd have spun a bit and will drain less power.
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From Google Support:
The issue with Gmail has been resolved for all affected users as of Thursday, 2020-08-20 04:12 US/Pacific.
We will publish an analysis of this incident once we have completed our internal investigation.Maybe related:
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Better Headline image
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I would keep the LEDs but go for a capacitative (reactance) voltage dropper, as per the APP note.
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Ah yes, direct power from mains, a great way to electrocute yourself AND your friends ????
Pure resistive works but as you might have noticed it's a much better heater than a light source.
If you do insist on living on the edge, here is a great app note from Microchip regarding resistive and capacitative power circuits, including the formulas to calculate your components:
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1 hour ago, mtls2005 said:
No clue why they're even attempting this as it will only
- generate more interest,
- appeal,
- book sales,
- appearances, and
- expose DJT's indecent behavior towards his family to more people.
There you go, 5 excellent reasons you give yourself right there.
More profit for the family.
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BTW 6.3V is not critical, it's just where it will have the longest life / correct heating.
But as tubes are quite resilient you can get away with probably anything between 5 and 8 volts or so.
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This one might suit you even better, a little smaller, and more of your requested voltages:
Input voltage:AC220V(red, red)
Output high voltage:AC230V-0-230V 40MA
Two groups of output filament voltage
①Single group AC6.3v 1a:
② Single group AC13V 0.6A
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Something like this should be a good start.
No need to rectify the 6.3V, AC will be fine for the heater
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Use of Volt Stabilizers and OBD2
in Thailand Motor Discussion
Posted
About as useful as the stone brick in a box that you plugin to save energy at home.