On forum.thaivisa.com it is gone.

On the main page www.thaivisa.com it is still there, and bigger.

 

Did a refresh (deleted old cached page) and it is still there, and now an annoying popup that I have an ad-blocker. Pops for 3 seconds before he detect that TV is whitelisted.  Some detection algorithm is not well designed.

 

Kind of an AVR, catching peaks and return it back to the net. Hmmmmm...

Wish my inverter could catch the spikes from the welders next door and return it for cash ????

 

MP - Meaning of Life  (Godspeed Terry)

 

This is still showing as an AD.

Clicking on it opens classifieds.thaivisa.com in a new tap however empty page.

Browser says: ' Hmm. We’re having trouble finding that site.

We can’t connect to the server at classifieds.thaivisa.com. '

 

Suggestion for the webmaster:

* delete this useless ad, saves the bit bandwidth and 'fake promises' , do the same with the tab on the main page.

or

* make a redirection from classifieds.thaivisa.com to https://forum.thaivisa.com/forum/8-free-classifieds-for-salefor-rentwanted/ which is still 'life'

Driving a Jackhammer on the top ? ????

1 hour ago, Rice_King said:

Since you asked:

 

Did you hacked my WiFi during the month November 2019? ????

At home.

 

Phone 1:  AIS 2Gb Pack

Oct:618MB, Nov2.4GB, Dec:1.4GB, Jan-till today:230MB

 

Phone 2: True H 2Gb Pack

Nov:3MB, Dec:61MB, Jan-till today: 514MB

 

 

Packages are not starting the 1st of the months.

 

 

8 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

1) install an under/over voltage control with its contactor like this

What is your settings and can you explain why you choose these numbers?

The picture is not very clear at the numbers but it looks like your safe voltage is between 180 and 245.

 

Here I am using 170-270.

Fridge is inverter type which still operates at 140 volt, and all other equipment are using switched power supplies (mostly 80v-265v).

Even the led tubes, which are CC and not CV operated, running on 230v can work at 65v.

No incandescent lights. The only that could be affected by brownouts are one ceiling fan and two swingers on pegs.

 

5 hours ago, fvw53 said:

Thank you : can you also send me the URL link of this English page ? I would like to check the names of the 146 channels of which 56 HD

 

Sure.  It's here It's the offer third collum at ' True Gigatex Fiber ' which is the top notch package with 1000Mbps download

And the channel list, see below.

 

You are able to make combinations with True, like a more regular internet speed together with the Gold package for TV.

 

The gold package is already a 'premium pack' which is 1,568.12 Baht / Month.

Internet only under 'True Gigatex Fiber' is 899 Baht / Month.

The combination package is 1999.

 

If you would like to play with packages, you can for example choose Gold in combination with True SuperSpeed Fiber, which has 100 or 200Mbps download

(Instead of 1000Mbps/1Gbps) but includes an extra mobile package with 10GB data)

 

One thing we know is you want the gold package.

But " unlimited downloads (I guess speed will be OK)  "

'speed and OK' is subjective and everyone has their own expectation????

 

True is unlimited, the upper packages are 100% that

Even with the data pack, after the pack is used the speed is throttled but still connected.

 

For example on a phone I have Truemove H, with package 4 GB, top speed 42Mbps, after 4gb it's throttled to 768kbps, still good for 720p streaming and web.

The lowest package throttles to 64kbps.

 

 

The channel list for Gold :

 

 

Here TrueVisions Family and H.

 

What you want is called True Fiber Gold

Phone is trough VoIP.

 

 

 

15 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Yup, saving $0.001 per unit by missing out that bit of (invariably red) "cardboard" between the PCB and the mains connectors.

 

Making millions of them that can be a significant cost optimisation.

 

Did some lookup and it seems that this one model is made in Thailand, or just sold here ????

Assuming, if 50% of the population bought one and sold out. That's 34,861,227‬ adapters.

 

Insulating sheet  0.13mm(like Mylar) 30x20cm 681thb per sheet.

1.5x2cm 3.41thb per adapter

Roughly 120m thb.

Another sheet 0.02mm (Mylar) 30x20cm 92.90 per sheet

1.5x2cm 0.46thb per adapter

Roughly 16.2m thb

 

Someone is sitting in his granite villa not turning his bum on one blown adapter.

 

Another dude on TV is having too much time now. ????

 

Missus is now fully recovered and just got a high rank.

 

????

It happened last week.

I was relaxing in my cavern.

Wife stroddles in and said 'Wifi.. I need the wifi. My items my stats.. now!'

She is heavily addicted to one of those app where you have to keep the phone horizontal playing something manga's dressed in rainbow colors running as the Tasmanian Devil.

 

'Oh maybe a plug' As I was walking in the router corner before she came in.

 

Hmm.. the router is off ! And so was the extension socket.

Socket has connected: router, adapter for the Pi and the EthernetOverPower plug.

Checked the extension socket plug, still inserted.

Another socket came in place and router came up to life again, also the EthernetOverPower adapter lights blinked happily.

Inserted the adapter for the Pi, Pi doesn't come up.

 

 

Ok, first thing first. Something has happened so a quick investigation was started.

Opened the FUSE, and yes this extension block has one and that thing went bang, kaboom.

 

 

Today, further investigation was made. The adapter dissected and the found the culprit.

Seems a bit charred.

 

Checked under the pcb.

Definitely !

 

What could be the cause.

This electronic is not one of the worst, it use proper isolation between the high and low voltage. Mind you, I am talking about the pcb design.

Many cheap adapters tend to use a capacitance dropper and are nowhere isolated from the mains as this one is.

 

But

The adapter design is terrible wrong. Perhaps not the monkey dad's design but frankly (pun intended) one of those factories in China, which I can't confirm as there is no 'Made in..' branded.

The pcb is fixed at one place, not a terrible issue but it is even the only place where it is fixed in the casing.

No locking nor spacers to keep the pcb in his place.

The pcb is slightly bent, and that didn't went well. It warped bit by bit until one of the islands with piece of wire touched the spring for the prong and a meltdown was unavoidable.

 

 

Bad design; cheap pcb material and no spacers.

Bada bing bada boom bye fuse and bye adapter.

 

 

2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

The Italians seem to have it sorted in anything they make. Doesn't have to be loud. 

 

Then it has pedals.

 

 

11 hours ago, Crossy said:

flashing lights,

 

Postman Pat just came along with a package.

 

Colored lights colored switches so colored wire tags for the completion !

 

11 hours ago, Crossy said:

Steve Zodiac

And Brains ???? I have the glasses for it ????

 

11 hours ago, Crossy said:

I mount outlets with the earth on the left, neutral at the top.

Same here.

Many outlets are with the earth right, so the life is on top. Don't know the exact reason why it was like that.

But adapting the Thai mind, flood will get to the live at last

New sockets put by me and horizontal placed have the earth left.

 

11 hours ago, Crossy said:

Safe if something conductive drops down the back

From back then, when the covers were mostly metal.

 

Earth up:

If my memory serves right, this practice was mainly used in the hospitals. Not just for the metal plate but anything else.

If the plug was not fully inserted this caused dangerous situations, as you said anything conductive could drop on the bare prongs.

 

After the introduction of sleeved prongs they did the earth back to downside.

 

For residential use another opinions were made, when people stepped/tripped on wires, the earth prong was supposed to disconnect at last.

 

In my country this is not an issue as the earth is on both side, up and down. (Schuko outlets)

Hospital sockets have separate earth prongs for the equipment that need extra earthning for safety (I think this is the case almost everywhere)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let me ask the reverse way:

 

What if you have 65K deposits every months, and choose after 13 months the monthly deposits stops and you have at least 800K on the bank.

Can you use that for the retirement requirement?

My 2T sounds like a tugboat.

 

Being close to my Click and his pierced exhaust.

Which however does sound as a diesel woodsaw, once the throttle is thrown full and quickly released everyone knows I am there.

 

Time to replace/fix.

The air is dry, the sun is high.

It is Sunday, electric is cheap.

Aircon has cooled the room,

battery bank charged.

 

All good !

 

It was been :

Planned for weeks, months.. Wiringplans drawed

Expanded and shrunked. Binned and drawed again.

The need.. the futureproof.. the overkill..

 

The important things: safety, safety and .. safety.

The first safety is a isolation switch.

The second safety is earth leakage breaker, RCBO.

The third safety is isolated group for the DC inverter.

 

Why that third safety? At mains power cut there is still energy on that group.

 

Ready!

 

The items:

And a lot of cables, screws, plugs, tubes,...

 

So

 

This need to be gone.. soon.

But wait, the incoming wires..

 

No not those... but those from outside to the (old) Consumer Unit.

 

Cutted the wire.. well.. tried to cut but couldn't find my Knipex

so went for the hacksaw to cut these 16sq.mm wires

Wait.. safety? Life wire?  Oh yeah right.

 

Outside then.

Unplugging the L out wire.

But before that, I checked the wires inside, those 16sq.mm wires.

Black is neutral, grey is Life/Hot.

Which is weird, not ANSI, IEC, BS, NEN, DIN.. but anyway the incoming wire inside

grey one I shrink a red heatshrink tube.

 

Prepared the '''''''''''''isolation'''''''''' switch, which is really just a breaker but now a fine isolator switch

(And no, the fuses are not 60amp anymore)

 

 

 

A day earlier, on Saturday, preparation for the placement of the new CU's were made.

They are right beside the incoming wires.

Yes that looked about right, with another CU under that I still have room for the (moveable) rack.

 

The Smartmeter is positioned, not protected by a breaker, but fused 120amp.

It stays on, always and the only thing that can shut it off is the isolator or power outage from outside.

The cable to the old CU that was cut off is bypassed trough a 63amp main breaker.

It is still feeding the rest of the house.

The old CU will be replaced by another CU which will serve the bed room and lights for shower, attic and portal.

The first floor will get his own CU too, which will be mounted outside the home (still under roof).

 

This room has only one socket, at the other side next to the door.

This is my workspace, mancave, office, hail, island, whatever you can call the place that is

yours and just only YOURS.

It need sockets, plenty ! Starting in this corner. With wires 2.5sq.mm hooked on a 16 amp breaker.

I choose the style, ala TIS, with the earth prong up side which is good for 16AMP.

Other plugs that I will give a smaller breaker I will mount with the earth prong down, Danish style but with a sad smile.

 

Under this socket will come another socket but 32 amp.

(Those red plugs). For the movable rack. The breaker is seen in the

bottom CU, red colored double pole 32 amp.

Next to that is a green colored 1p 20 amp, for the air-con.

 

Currently the breaker for the air-con.

The left one is from the old air-con.

It was directly taped from the incoming wires.

If you turned off the old CU, this breaker was is still alive.

 

Hung up the inverter, connected the second main breaker (50) to the system.

The first CU is just for the Smartmeter.

The second CU gives space for the two main breakers and the group for serving wall electricity in this room protected by RCBO.

The third CU has two groups, one for the AC and 32Amp socket and other (RCBO protected) is the for the Inverter and (future) powerwall.

One issue is missing a neutral bar in the third CU for the two breakers, they are connected with jumper wires from the RCBO neutral inlet.

All (patch)wires are 4sq.mm. Except for the wires from the isolator to the meter

and from the meter to the 2nd CU earthbusbar / main breakers, those are 16sq.mm.

From the earthbusbar to the main breakers neutral in alu. 10sq.mm

At the out of the breakers all 2.5sq.mm.

 

Ongrid Inverter and the DC box 'CU'.

Inverter and the voltmeter (with built in DC breaker and Surge Arrester)

It was dark already, need to wait for tomorrow to see it in action.

 

That DC 'CU' box was another project.

 

Lights will get another system, partly trough a battery system.

And the main lights will be connected to the group in the next room (other RCBO group).

That way, when in a room and mischief equipment will trip the breakers you wouldn't be thrown into the dark.

 

 

 

- The Saga Continues.

 

7 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

 

Wait me get sticks and a bag of fluff

I don't know any about the coronavirus.

But I read there are more sick people amongst us.

Here on TV, but also in the street and community (village in the city).

At home, 4 people and all sick. Three has heavy headache and two couching.

 

Not believing in the coronavirus be here, but possible the season of flu?

 

In all the years living here never had this, and never 2 or more people sick at same time, in home.

 

18 minutes ago, wayned said:

I am going to use Thai logic!  Why not build the solar panel field in the shape of  a low pyramid?  Then all of the excess sun will run off and they will have more sunlight in the surrounding fields helping the plants.

Thai Logic , and those residents in Woodland, is, turning around the solar cells and et voila we have sun in the night ! ????

4 minutes ago, Metropolitian said:

ThaiVisa is Nation , I think link to that is ok.

...

Just checked, and the fire before was on 20th of march in 2017

Unfortunately searchresults only BP and KhaoSod.

I stand corrected.

That article IS from march 20th in 2017.

 

Mistake made, as it was in my search result just right after BP which is todays.

The fire today was, as the investigation said, started in the basement floor.

 

42 minutes ago, Roy Baht said:

Wow, that looks pretty bad. (I can't post it because it's Bangkok Post and Columbo will bust me. Just google Fire at Fortune Town.) They probably will shut it down for a while.

ThaiVisa is Nation , I think link to that is ok.

 

https://www.nationthailand.com/breakingnews/30309660

The fire, which started at around 8am at a third-floor audio store, was quickly contained and brought under control within half an hour thanks to the building’s sprinkles and smoke detectors as well as well-trained firefighters. 

 

Hmmm.. again that 3rd floor.

 

Just checked, and the fire before was on 20th of march in 2017

Unfortunately searchresults only BP and KhaoSod.

But a line : ' the fire, which broke out at about 8am in an electronic equipment shop on the third floor '

 

 

Again?

 

Not long time ago there was a fire on the 3rd floor.

1 hour ago, Thian said:

Even old Amsterdam has a expiry date i believe...and yes older cheese tastes much better..or cheese from raw milk which is also great, farmers cheese.

Depends... If they are sliced in slices, I wouldn't keep them for long.

But a fine block, I still eat it months pass the due date. ????

 

Sometime my young cheese sweating, then I cleaned in brine and dried it. It then became old and crumble.

Delicious with good mustard (And yeah there is another thread running with mustard teams , I am the brown mustard team 555).