unheard

@SenorTashi "So I'm wondering what other inexpensive, natural options there are." That would be teak wood if you happened to have any close relatives that could spare (or sell for a song) a run down old teak house. Then you could re-use all that wood and build a new house for yourself. Teak is durable, but very expensive natural option if purchased on the open market. If not then red bricks is the only inexpensive "natural" option. It's cheap and durable - the local default material used for walls.

Not to pollute this thread... What brand(s) did you use for the pump and chlorinator?

Not much in savings considering all the hassle, unless that's your kind of fun and learning experience. But that's really personal...btw thank you for your specific answer.

Hmm, not really the blanket DIY then?

Do it yourself? Why would you do such a thing? Unless you're experienced in the field or spent a considerable amount of time researching the subject and know exactly what you're doing and have some builder's skills. Even then why even bother unless you enjoy the building activities in general? The task of building a pool requires specific expertise and is very labor intensive.

That attachment is too simplistic and doesn't really clarify much. The reflective sheet will not do "marvels". Just check your attic space temps at the end of a sunny day. Unless... It's a ventilated attic with enough of air flow. A light color roof will help a little, but certainly will not make much of a difference.

You have to shop around... Big companies with beautiful websites and fluent English will be the costliest. You might also want to adjust the proposed pool dimensions. If you're a good swimmer and looking for a lap pool then you can easily shave off some of the cost by making it narrower, say at 2.5-3m in width. Fiberglass pools are generally cheaper and much, much quicker to complete. But you have to be aware of the differences. Concrete and fiberglass both have their pros and cons. Sometimes your location conditions can also have some play (e.g. ground water levels, soils prone to ground-shifting). You'd have to do some research (don't pay attention to biased sources) to be able to find the one that fits you the best.

Never crossed my mind! ???? I don't have to measure rpms, only the output frequency. Thank you!

To do that I'd need to find the "rpm screw" on the carburetor. And then be able to measure the actual rpms. I'll probably be able to locate that screw by searching youtube since the motor looks to be the very common Chinese knockoff of Honda. But how about measuring the actual rpm?????

Just to verify if I get it correctly. Looking at the outlet's diagram: Local L --> Line1 Local N --> Line2 Local Earth -->Nearby earth rod Does it mean that I can get something like this, cut the existing plug off and connect the L14-30 male plug instead, wired as per your instructions? It will be a kind of a stationary setup, since it needs to be attached to the Earth rod. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/amc-4-3-30-2-i2837402191-s10353318778.html?clickTrackInfo=undefined&search=1&spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.i40.54304abfAAZTj3 Regarding to your point on "(it doesn't actually matter)" Did you mean that the Local L and N could be connected to either Line1 or Line2, interchangeably, as it doesn't actually matter?

I've acquired an old but perfectly running generator. The only problem - it's designed for the 120V 60Hz American standard output. I don't think the minor difference in frequency is much of a problem. My question is about voltage. The front panel features a twist-lock NEMA L14-30 connector rated 120/240V Is there a way to adapt a L14-30 plug to output 240V to a local household type outlet?

He's mentioned non-rust.. SCG PVC gutters would work and last just fine.

@33 RPM "which direction the weather mainly comes from" Seasonal: