Johnlkuk

Yes, you're probably right about some scammer sellers, but the OP asked about experiences with selling, so I answered. For some unknown reason other posters then want to comment on how many scammers there are. Yes, little chance of being scammed if you are selling and only accept cash/bank transfer as payment.

I'm neither and happily posted my experience above proving this.

Regarding selling on FB.... Last month I advertised some worn furniture and a desktop PC that was left behind in my recently acquired condo. I had to format the PC beforehand but it sold the day after going live with just one enquiry. Messenger on my phone went berserk with messages for the furniture, which was split into separate adverts: sofa/armchairs, dining table/chairs, sideboard, coffee table etc. The same day as the advert went live I sold the sideboard to the first person to show up, then an hour later, all the rest to a dealer who collected the next morning. He probably got a good deal but I needed a rest from having to respond to enquiries. For the ads - Good photos and clear wording etc, all in English. A farang bought the PC, and all the furniture went to Thais. All paid cash and took the items away. Similar luck might depend on what you're selling, and how you price it, but furniture seems to be red hot judging by my experience.

Yes, my post-posting thoughts exactly. Just disconnect one side of switch (safely) and see if glow goes 👍

I'm not qualified in electrickery, but would be interested in what the pros thought of my approach. For the glowing issue I would start by changing the light switch. My reasoning is that if it is not completely isolating when it is in the "off" position, then some "seepage" maybe occurring, hence the glow. I know in this instance it is the N being switched, but a "leaky" switch would have the same effect whether L or N. To confirm this, you buy a completely new switch and change it. Otherwise, you test the existing switch by swapping it with one of the other switches that operate the same kind of new light (that doesn't glow). If the switch is leaky it will show in it's new position, and the glowing light (with newly positioned old working switch) will glow no more. Obviously with care, and with the appropriate breakers switched off. Find them by turning the lights on first, then switching breakers until the lights go out. If the light fittings can be duff from new, who says the switches can't be nearly duff from years of use?

Next I'll do the same up in the bathroom ceiling and then connect the two together and send back to the CU ready for a 3 core cable changeover sometime in the future (after the RCBO/CU upgrade). Many thanks again for the help and advice, and particularly much respect to you Crossy for sharing your knowledge. 👍

Looks as bright as using the neutral, so I'm well happy. Cable and clamps courtesy of Lazada.

Then connected to one rebar: And then with 2 rebars connected:

An update after some more success using the rebar. 1st picture using live and neutral from a socket:

Correct, no earth found after a good search. There's just live and neutral coming into the condo (red and blue)

Thanks for the extra input. I've linked my friend to this thread now so he can take note of the technical side of things. He will be the one to source what I need there. One other thing that was mentioned by Crossy would make sense to him too: "A UK main switch would be an isolator, that would not suit here (there is no DNO fuse here) you need a double-pole Mcb" I guess he would have to make sure he got one that fitted in the CU he supplies.

Thanks Crossy, I really appreciate your help in this.

Sorry, I don't understand the question. The 1st pic is using L and N from the socket. 2nd and 3rd pics are using the rebar. I looked again but can't see the wattage of the bulb, it looks like it says 220v/230v but no sign of wattage.

Quite dim but I've no sandpaper and it was just a loose connection, but maybe with a better connection, and some daisy-chaining to other exposed metal?