dinga

6 hours ago, DrJoy said:

They are not Immigration Officers

WOW (who would have thought...)

7 minutes ago, Etaoin Shrdlu said:

I think the usher/attendants may not be familiar with PR holders' use of the Thai lane. I'm sure that was the case when I exited from Suvarnabhumi last month. 

Hope you're right!  I'll try again when I next travel.

Did you need to register in order to use the BKK Auto Gates? Remember which Immigration Desk to arrange?

10 minutes ago, Etaoin Shrdlu said:

I have only used the auto gates at Suvarnabhumi. The only time I exited and re-entered at Don Mueang, the auto gates were not set up to accept registered PR holders, only Thai nationals.

 

I exited and re-entered at Suvarnabhumi about a month ago and used the Thai lanes. When exiting, I was directed to the foreigner queue by one of the attendants in spite of showing my TM17. I asked the attendant to check with the immigration officer about using the Thai lane. The immigration officer then told the attendant that I should use the Thai lane.

 

Who told you that PR holders could no longer use the Thai lanes?

Female Usher directing passengers to Inwards Immigration Processing at BKK  -  "PRs no longer can use the Thai queues".  

At Outwards processing, I was directed to the Fast Track as the auto readers were apparently for Thai Passports only (this was fortunate as the Farang queues were very, very long) 

Has anyone got an update on the current arrangements regarding:

1.  Access to Auto Gates by PR holders (both at BKK and DMK).  Has this now been re-instated? 

2. Previously PR holders could join the Thai National queues at both Outwards and Inwards Immigration.  I was told at BKK yesterday that PR holders must now join only the very, very long Farang queues.  Is that correct?

On 2/18/2023 at 8:48 AM, dinga said:

Has anyone got an update on the current arrangements regarding:

 

1.  Access to Auto Gates by PR holders (both at BKK and DMK).  Has this now been re-instated? 

 

2. Previously PR holders could join the Thai National queues at both Outwards and Inwards Immigration.  I was told at BKK yesterday that PR holders must now join only the very, very long Farang queues.  Is that correct?

 

  

No response, so best I start a new thread

Has anyone got an update on the current arrangements regarding:

1.  Access to Auto Gates by PR holders (both at BKK and DMK).  Has this now been re-instated? 

2. Previously PR holders could join the Thai National queues at both Outwards and Inwards Immigration.  I was told at BKK yesterday that PR holders must now join only the very, very long Farang queues.  Is that correct?

Thanks Elkski - interesting observations (yeah, I do wonder if all the implications just make it just too darn difficult).

As for the comment "don't understand how using a tank will extend your water capacity of the pond".  I will be raising the pond capacity by around 10% by increasing the height of the lowest bank (the geography prevents much else) but the thinking behind the gravity feed is to use less water than the typical butterfly sprinklers would on the smaller plot (while continuing to use them on the larger plot).  ie.  less water use for 33% of the trees should mean the pond supply will last for the whole Dry Season. 

Tks    

We are trying to resuscitate a small (about 3 rai) neglected orchard comprising a total of some 125 trees - growing in basically two discrete areas of 42 trees and 83 trees respectively.

The water will be supplied from a pond estimated to contain a useable quantity of about 1,000.000 litres.  It seems very unlikely that 1,000 cu metres of water will be sufficient for these trees if we used the usual watering method & equipment used in the orchards around us here in Rayong - hence I'm wondering about using alternate options for the 42 trees. 

I'm wondering about the viability of putting a tank at the top of the plot, pumping water from the pond into the tank (using a 2HP pump with a 2" outflow and a capacity of 36,000 litres per hour to an elevation of some 11 metres) and distributing the water to the 42 trees by gravity feed to drippers and mini sprinklers. 

Appreciate thoughts & experience of this idea which is aimed at being able to extend the available water supply for use over the whole dry season  -  in particular:

1.   It seems an 11 metre elevation will result in a gravity water pressure of over 15psi (1 Bar) - would that be sufficient for a sole main-line feeding all 42 trees or are two main lines (each for some 20 odd trees) likely required?

2.  Understand drippers and mini sprinklers are prone to clogging up - with water borne <deleted> and/or the like of ants/bugs etc.  Is this a real problem?  Does the frequency and/or extent of blocking make these a non viable option?

3.  Assume filtering the pond water at the pump is a must -- and likely at least filtered again on outflow from the tank.  Any suggestions about what filters should be used (is 120 mesh OK - I have one 3/4" one), how many and where should they be positioned? 

Greatly appreciate responses and suggestions to these and any other relevant matters.  

2 hours ago, richard_smith237 said:

I posted on another thread... 

 

IF motorcyclists are removed from the equation the death rate per 100,000 of population is higher in the USA than it is in Thailand. 

 

Trained monkeys you say ?

 

Sure????  Is the same counting methodology used in both Thailand and in the US of A???? (only those that died at the accident scene).

Doubt it....

On 1/5/2023 at 5:32 PM, Encid said:

Vetiver grass needs a Nitrogen rich fertilizer (such as chicken poo - available at every Global House) at time of planting, and again at regular monthly intervals during the growing season (which it currently isn't) and a good supply of water until the seedings have become established.

 

We we fortunate enough to have planted our 2 metre high slopes with vetiver seedlings (at 150mm centres in rows 1.5 metres apart - as recommended by HRH Rama 9) and we had an exceptionally wet rainy season this year, which meant that our grass established itself very quickly.

 

Now, we have no erosion at all. 

 

You are correct... after a bit of research it seems that you should trim the grass to 30cm above ground level initially after 4 months of planting.

The second cutting should be done just before flowering starts in the second year.

After that you can just leave it to grow, unless you plan on harvesting the whole plant for the essential oils found in the root legumes.

 

We are not planning to harvest as we want the erosion prevention measures provided by the root systems.

Expand  

Excellent - thanks (have just trimmed the grass as outlined elsewhere in another thread).  Wish I knew at planting time (some 6 months ago) that the vertiver should be initially fertilized with chicken poop.  Should I fertilize now or is it better to wait until just before the Wet Season (say May)????  Any tips/traps as chook poo is pretty strong???

On 12/17/2022 at 6:44 PM, Encid said:

You are correct... after a bit of research it seems that you should trim the grass to 30cm above ground level initially after 4 months of planting.

The second cutting should be done just before flowering starts in the second year.

After that you can just leave it to grow, unless you plan on harvesting the whole plant for the essential oils found in the root legumes.

 

We are not planning to harvest as we want the erosion prevention measures provided by the root systems.

Excellent - thanks (have just trimmed the grass as outlined).  I read elsewhere that the vertiver should be initially fertilized with chicken poop (wish I knew that at the time).  Should I fertilize now or is it better to wait until just before the Wet Season (say May)????  Any tips/traps as chook poo is pretty strong???

We have a small block in Rayong Province (a neglected orchard where we are presently building a small house).

Our block is on a slope - with erosion being a problem/challenge due to water runoff occurring in 2 directions.   Any suggestions about where we can get some advice about the best counter-measures (we have planted some vertiver grass but that seems to only offer a very limited, partial solution, along with what are variously known as whoa-boys/water bars/cross banks/humps/diversion banks [which resemble speed bumps] along the access track). 

Am thinking we really need to get someone knowledgeable to undertake a site inspection.  The Tessabaan hasn't provided any suggestions - worth noting that the run-off goes into a small creek that runs along some land that is owned by the Government and which abuts our block (hopefully that may be useful in getting some interest from a government authority).

Thanks!

On 12/17/2022 at 6:44 PM, Encid said:

You are correct... after a bit of research it seems that you should trim the grass to 30cm above ground level initially after 4 months of planting.

The second cutting should be done just before flowering starts in the second year.

After that you can just leave it to grow, unless you plan on harvesting the whole plant for the essential oils found in the root legumes.

 

We are not planning to harvest as we want the erosion prevention measures provided by the root systems.

Thanks - a useful tip.

Our block is on a slope - with erosion being a problem/challenge due to water runoff occurring in 2 directions.   Any suggestions about where we can get some advice about the best counter-measures (we have planted some vertiver grass but that seems to only offer a very limited, partial solution).  Am thinking we need to get someone knowledgeable to undertake a site inspection.  The Tessabaan hasn't provided any suggestions - worth noting that a creek runs along some land that is owned by the Government and which abuts our block.

Thanks!

2 hours ago, ningnong said:

And you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

 

There is so much information on the Internet that contradicts your belief that your tires are good for 10 years simply because the manufacturer said so, assuming the tread is not worn out.

 

Since you mentioned in the original post you don't put that many miles on your vehicles you might find this snip interesting:

"Usage: When a tire is driven, the pressure and flexing motion circulate the internal oils through the rubber. These oils lubricate the internal rubber and keep it from drying and stiffening. So tires that are used less are often more vulnerable to aging effects."

https://www.liveabout.com/the-science-of-tire-aging-3234377

 

Do some research.
tyre aging
treadwear and braking
treadwear and hydroplaning

If you understand spoken Thai search Youtube for ดอกยางรถยนต์แข็ง "Car tread hard" where tread hardness is discussed.

 

Denial is not a river in Egypt.

It is disingenuous in the extreme to say I believe tyres are good for 10 years simply because the manufacturer said so.  You and your kin apparently have chronic inabilities to read and comprehend (try carefully to re-read my comments - and concentrate!).

As for the trite last sentence, how very droll - hardly original and who knows??? (perhaps accurate in some other weird universe - but certainly not in this one) 

Phrase[edit]

denial is not a river in Egypt

1. (humorous) Used to point out that somebody is in a state of psychological denial. 

8 hours ago, DavisH said:

A cheap charlie and his life are soon parted also. 

tedious and unnecessarily -  see my final response below 

8 hours ago, DavisH said:

That's what I was implying. OBSERVE the qualityof the tire during it's lifespan. ANY brand of tire used on Thai roads will be rock hard by 10 years and well past their useby date. I value my life over a few thousand lousy baht saved. 

Testament to thoroughly confused "thinking"  -  it's not, and has never been, about the money. 

Wastes everyone's time to repeatedly regurgitate the same old off-topic nonsense and impune anyone with an different opinion.  Do whatever the hell you want - as will I.    

25 minutes ago, ningnong said:

Well that makes a lot of sense. Take a chance driving on well worn tires needing to slow down in situations where you may loose traction because of those worn tires?

 

How about spending 15K to have decent tread and be able to maintain an appropriate speed for conditions and have a shorter stopping distance too.

 

But I understand if your budget can't handle it.

32 minutes ago, ningnong said:

Well that makes a lot of sense. Take a chance driving on well worn tires needing to slow down in situations where you may loose traction because of those worn tires?

 

How about spending 15K to have decent tread and be able to maintain an appropriate speed for conditions and have a shorter stopping distance too.

 

But I understand if your budget can't handle it.

"A fool and his money are soon parted" 

3 hours ago, DavisH said:

Did the manufacturer consider the tropical climate and heat in Thailand? I've had my michelins on my crv for close to 4 years and 50K kms. They have surface fine cracks on the outer edge of each tire. They may be good for another 10-20K kms, probably no more. But 10 years? I don't think they'd last that long as the rubber hardens over time and dry grip reduces. I'd rather follow my observations of the tire quality and performance (braking, noise), rather than what is stated on the box. I've also replaced some tires as 40K kms when it was obvious they were becoming noisy and hard. 

For goodness sake, let me try yet again to clarify.  In the absence of any compromise (the like of which you mention), the manufacturer recommends replacement at 10 years.  Clearly, that does not mean tyres will last 10 years regardless of mileage, condition, neglect, performance etcetcetc.

My gripe is being told my tyres need to be replaced when they simply reach 5/7 years despite the fact they have Zero indications of compromise.

On 12/12/2022 at 2:11 PM, Ralf001 said:

Yeah I change mine every 5 yrs maximum for economic reasons.

Couple tyres cost chump change compared to the financial burden a tire blowout could cause.... Whilst Iam confident I can stop my vehicle in such an event I doubt my missus can..... I'd be devastated if she had a blow out on the 36 taking the kids to school due to me milking the tire life to save a few pennies.

 

Admirable!!!

14 minutes ago, ningnong said:

You left out a couple of other recommendations by Yokohama regarding tire life:

 

"Follow your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations for tire service life. For a tire in use for five or more years, including your spare tire, Yokohama recommends an inspection by a qualified tire service professional at least once a year to determine whether the tire can continue in service."

https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires-101/maintenance-care-1/tire-life

True - in the absence of any compromise (which is exactly my case), the Manufacturer recommends replacement after 10 years.

The issue I raised really relates to hidden economic reasons being the excuse used to urge tyre replacement well before they really need to be.  

9 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Only if you are getting information specifically targeted at the geographical area you live in. If you are just quoting non area specific information then you have no credibility or knowledge and know not of what you speak.

My sentiments exactly - now go quietly into the night

38 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Did you actually get specific advice for tyres used in Thailand? No? I thought not. 
The heat, humidity and UV radiation age tyres and many petrochemical compounds at a much faster rate than in temperate climates. All these factors age limit tyres far more than the wear limits. For a while I was getting through rear tyres about every 8~11 months when doing significant distances, now doing much less mileage it’s about 4~6 years or the wear limit 

Think again  -  again, it's the Manufacturer who has the credibility

11 minutes ago, Woof999 said:

Rubber degrades over time. I would say you've had your money's worth in 5 years. 7 is definitely too long regardless of remaining tread. 

Noted and forgotten (I place more credence in the Manufacturer's advice)

3 minutes ago, KannikaP said:

35K kms in 7 years is 5000km a year, 100km a week. So used pretty well every day but 13km a day?  555

Yep - you got it (in the past, would have been more like 1/2 that most days). 

Must admit to being bemused after two separate businesses recommended I replace the tyres on our cars  -  quite unnecessarily in my view.

*  #1:  Went to a tyre retailer to have a puncture repaired.  Was amazed to be told all 4 tyres should be replaced on the sedan as they were "old"  -  on a new vehicle purchased some 5 years earlier and about 50k Kms travelled.  Plenty of tread left and no reason to suspect the tyres were compromised in any way.

*  #2:  Had my Ranger pickup truck recently serviced at Ford and was told my Yokohama tyres should similarly be replaced as they were 7 years old (they have travelled only 35k Kms in the 6 1/2 years they have been on the vehicle, are in fine condition and I'd reckon the tread is about 1/2 way though its life.  Both vehicles are used pretty well every day, are kept under cover and are driven conservatively. 

In 50 years of driving, I've never heard of these recommendations before (perhaps because the distances traveled in Australia are such that the tread wears out before age becomes any consideration).  Anyhow, curiosity got the better of me and I've found that Yokohama recommends the replacement and disposal of all passenger and light truck tyres whose DOT production date is 10 years or more old.  Sounds far more reasonable - reckon my tyres have got another 3 years in 'em - and at the current rate of use will still have plenty of tread when they are replaced.