jandtaa

I believe MF is happy to be contacted ( please PM me for his email address if he hasn't already forwarded it to you)

Please refrain from commenting further in this thread as advised by Bina in an earlier post. I can assure you there is nothing sinister about the situation. MF's posting rights were temporarily suspended for violating a forum rule in a topic totally unrelated to farming, as a result he has informed us of his decision to no longer take an active role in ThaiVisa but is still more than happy to answer outstanding farming related questions from members via email at the above @address.

cheers for now J

Sounds like stalking to me MrWiggle !!

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Hi mr wiggle

if you read through this thread you'll find a post with the info you're after.

cheers for now J

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for trying to be a smart arse and breaking the rules of no comments 

Totally agree Svenian !!

KanWin, it's a cg artwork, not a photograph that the OP asked you to "improve" upon and even if it was, by darkening the clouds ( which we know you love ) in this manner you have detracted from the foreground element which was the artists focal point and totally altered the tone and impact of the original  picture. Photomatix is a great bit of software in the right hands and used with a touch of empathy but overkill if used incorrectly IMHO. 

keep on keeping on 

regards J

Hi Guys

Pretty sure zzza09 is meaning "native" to Thailand rather than wild (although could be mistaken) .Wild (mountain) papaya (carica pubescens) sp? from Mexico I believe, is apparently more resistant to root rot than some other varieties and is used as root stock in various countries although not aware of this being used in LOS . As Rice555 rightly points out taste is down to the market you are aiming for (round our way it's  cut for som tam before ripe although they seem to enjoy it ripe (always orange fleshed not red ) if available in the market).I guess the US is the largest importer and that the hybrids have been developed to supply this market ie. preferred shape, colour, sweetness etc.. combined with disease resistance, thickness of skin(for shipping), height of growth for harvesting etc.. 

getting back to the OP I've read that papaya are most susceptible to root rot in the first three months of their growth cycle after which they develop a certain amount of natural resistance to the disease. So maybe planting time could be of significance. 

cheers for now J 

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Hi Folks

Here's an illustrated article on brewing compost tea by Dr. Elaine Ingham of soil foodweb that you may find useful Brewing compost tea

cheers for now J

So, after about 4 days, should it have a strong rotten egg gas stench to it ??

Hi MrWiggle

Sounds like your brew may have gone anaerobic (There wasn't much sugar for a 100 litre brew, I use 3-4 tablespoons of molasses to a 5 gallon (approx 19 ltr) brew and add more if I'm taking the brew past 3 days.Did you stir it on a regular basis?

Also I would be careful adding uncomposted manure due to the possible pathogens, it is generally recommended that compost rather than manure teas are used on food crops.

have a read here for more information on compost tea soil foodweb 

cheers for now J

Hi Steve

some info on organic controls discussed here; insect pest thread and also here OISAT

cheers for now J

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Hi FEBiochar

You should have a read of this thread and maybe post here link to thread discussing biochar including how to build kilns etc. Your input is most welcome. 

cheers for now J

Hi Folks

Good idea Loong !!

I will try and help out with some Thai names when I get some spare time.

Altman, here are a couple of the appendix that I have split out from the PDF for you, they both contain planting dates.

Cambodia_Crop_calendar.pdf

Cambodia_Vegetable_production_practices.pdf

Cheers for now J

Cracking architectural shot

Totally agree the angle makes it .

J

Hi folks

Yeah can't see toms in July. If you carry on through to page 96 it says december-jan for sowing toms.

cheers for now J 

Hi Loong

That's a really useful planting guide you have found there  !! I'm going to print it off and see how it  compares to the proposed sowing guide I've drawn up for myself.

Cambodia climate

Dry season runs from November to April on the back of the northeast monsoon. November to January are cooler while February to April are hot and dusty. November is the coolest month, April the hottest.

Wet season runs from May to October courtesy of the southwest monsoon. Wet season brings some 75% of Cambodia's annual rainfall. July to September are the wettest months.

Average monthly rainfall during wet season 250mm

Cheers for now J

Organic HydroponicsBy David Roberts

During a day and age when our environment is becoming increasingly toxic including the air we breathe, the water we drink, and the food we eat; more and more of us are turning to the natural alternatives that are available. We are starting to consider how future generations may be affected by the pollution being produced in the name of capital gain, be it corporate or personal. These considerations are responsible for the dramatic increase in the consumption of organic products. Whether the product is shampoo or herbs, these products all fetch a substantially higher dollar value. Contrary to popular opinion, hydroponic gardens are not limited to chemical fertilizers. It is possible to use organic fertilizer in a hydroponic garden. Organic substances are those that are still in their natural state not having been through chemical re-composition, and these can include substances produced by animals and plants. 

Hydroponic crops are excluded from certification under the B.C. Certified Organics Program; however, this does not mean that we cannot reap the benefits of an organic harvest. Long has the debate been argued between those in favor of organic gardens and those who are indifferent or otherwise. What advantages could there be in an organic garden? As we know there are 16 plant nutrients that are essential for survival. We are aware of hormones that regulate plant growth, and we utilize B vitamins. There is, however, a lot more for humanity to learn.

Do we want our plants to just 'survive' or is our objective to obtain a maximum yield? We are currently learning about the relationship between plant growth and enzymes. According to some, all plant metabolic processes are enzyme driven. Plants use energy to move water and nutrient through cells up to the leaves where through the process of photosynthesis these elements are converted to sugars and starches which are in turn sent back down to the root zone for possible storage. Plants must produce the enzymes necessary to take up these nutrients, minerals, and vitamins. This process also requires energy (sugars and starches); now consider how much extra energy your plants could use for fruit or flower production (cellular mitosis) if we supplied a good portion of these enzymes. Enzymes also play other important roles in plant growth, for example, we all know the dreaded destruction that root disease can wreak upon a garden. Why aren't all the plants that live outside dying of Pythium infection? Simply put, Mother Nature takes care to balance this relationship by creating naturally occurring enzymes and beneficial microbes that keep the root zone free of this crippling sickness. We are very fortunate to be able to obtain sophisticated enzyme formulations which contain numerous enzymes. Dead and decaying root matter is the substrate upon which Pythium will grow, that is why whenever we have root disease we see that our roots are soft to the touch and usually falling apart. Enzymes can dissolve this decaying root matter and convert it to sugars and starches, thus pulling the carpet right out from underneath the feet of root disease. This is one of the components of dynamic plant growth that occurs in nature that can bring indoors to our hydroponic gardens.

We have been aware for the last 150 years that naturally occurring humic and fulvic acids increase nutrient uptake by basically forming a bridge between the nutrient and the root zone, humic acid is also beneficial to break down organic nutrient compositions. The importance of humic acids, often overlooked in aquatic systems has become apparent as research shows us that humic acid can comprise 95% of the total dissolved organic matter in an aquatic system. Humic acids are also of utmost importance in microbial processes, as well as interacting with over 50 elements from the periodic table and containing stable populations of free radicals. There is a granular humic acid formulation available which could be mixed into a hydroponic medium. Nature has a way of taking care of itself and when we consider that the DNA of every living or extinct species of organism on earth, including plants, animals, or microbes, eventually becomes a highly refined component of a truly high grade fulvic acid such as General Hydroponics Diamond Nectar we can clearly see that there must be beneficial results in plant growth and the breakdown of the organic matter which we are relying on to feed our plants. It is very important to know that true high grade fulvic acid will greatly increase the uptake of nitrogen which can result in drastic internodal stretching. Many gardeners find that utilizing a very light foliar spray of fulvic acid every morning for the last two weeks of flower enhances favorable characteristics.

It is possible to propagate a cutting organically as well. There are a number of organic rooting hormones available on the market. Traditionally, organic rooting hormones such as willow tree extract or liquid seaweed take much longer to initiate the rooting process than a synthetic rooting hormone. However, there have been reports of some plants rooting just as quickly. When it comes to the choice of a rooting medium one can choose whichever yields the most success. Organic-based starter plugs manufactured from composted bark are available, and some contain beneficial bacteria such as Trichoderma and are available under a variety of trade names.

Often overlooked is the importance of microbial processes that occur in nature. These beneficial organisms take decades to develop in the subterranean levels of the earth and now we have the chance to bring them indoors and add them to our gardens. Mycorrhizal products are a rarely used product in this industry, but are actually very useful in expanding the root surface which consequently increases nutrient uptake. Most claim to be 100% natural, are inexpensive products to use, and generally take only one application to establish a healthy and flourishing population of beneficial microbes. 

It is very easy to garden organically utilizing a drain to waste system with peat and perlite as the medium base. More often than not peat is referred to as 'dirt' implying that it is soil, when actually peat is a hydroponic medium due to the fact that it is inert. A sample mix which has been consistently used successfully is one bail of Pro Mix, 110 liter bail of perlite, a 20 litre bag of worm castings, one cup of rare earth, and one container of Myke Flower. To increase drainage of the medium even further, one could place about three inches of hydroton on the bottom of each pot. With this mix a gardener could expect a 20%-30% run off, for example if 100 gallons of nutrient were fed to the pots 20-30 gallons would run out from the holes in the bottom of the pots, therefore it is useful to have the pots placed in a 4x8 table equipped with a drain. This type of system is in theory borderline between true soil and hydroponic gardening, in effect utilizing the best of both worlds. In considering the components of our nutrient solution to use with this combination of mediums the choices are almost endless. It is important to note that in the above recipe we have not listed any organic components which are stronger or more active in nature such as bat guano or fish and crab meal, we are relying on our nutrient solution to provide us with the staple components necessary for optimum performance. Be very careful not to get carried away loading up a medium with organic foods, once you mix something in you cannot take it out, you can however, adjust your nutrient solution. One gardener who had decided to 'go organic' after having excellent results with his initial experiments became so brave that he loaded his peat mix full with a variety of organic products such as fish bone meal, bat guano, and so on. When he put his babies into the medium they crisped up and died due to severe root tip burn. The gardener ended up having to bake his pots under HID lighting for 2 weeks before he could put any plants into the medium. The pots would steam and become extremely hot due to the actively and rapidly breaking down organic matter. 

In short the organic matter was too highly concentrated. Just because something is organic doesn't always mean that it is not strong or readily available to the plant. 

It must be said that there is much we do not know about the benefits of many components present in nature, and these unknown elements: Vitamins, minerals, enzymes, acids, microbes, and hormones are precisely what we stand to benefit from. Just because we do not know how it works does not mean that it doesn't give us positive results.

There are so many factors involved in obtaining a maximum yield that is impossible to say that gardening organically will increase yield or quality. The popular notion that organically grown food is healthier for consumption is partly based in the non-use of pesticides. Pesticide use, when not strictly regulated and controlled, is highly hazardous to the environment, wildlife, and people. Pesticide use will also dramatically reduce yield in a garden, therefore it is definitely an advantage not only in production but in the future of our planet to make use of biological and natural pest control. 

Options to consider in this extremely important area are predatory mites, insects, and nematodes. In order to obtain pleasing results using biological controls one must be educated on the specific environments that each control requires. For example spider mites like to be hot and dry, where predator mites like it a little cooler and more humid. In order to successfully use predator mites we must create an environment that will slow down the reproduction of the spider mite and speed up the reproduction of the predator mite. We can do this by lowering our temperature to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and raising our humidity to 60%. In these conditions we will have a positive experience with biological controls. British Columbia is one of the leading users of biological controls in the world, with many greenhouses actually introducing the pest first and then biological predator, thus creating a balanced environment. Other options include using natural products in a pest management program such as earth juice essential spray and neem oil. These products would require frequent use, approximately every three days. When we consider that as many as 16 different types of pesticide residue have been found on a single head of lettuce it becomes truly apparent that we must hold ourselves to stricter standards.

The other basis for the idea that organically grown food is healthier is the non-use of chemical fertilizers. In a strictly scientific sense, organic nutrients are broken down to chemicals before they are actually taken up by the plant. So, technically speaking as far as nutrient absorption is concerned, the difference only lies in the fact that organic nutrients contain more than the 16 elements deemed 'essential ' for plant survival. The plant cannot technically tell the difference between nutrient derived from organic sources or from fertilizer salts. 

The basic principles of gardening Bioponically are generally the same as far as the considerations of choosing a medium, irrigation cycles and so on. A major point of consideration is that organic nutrient formulations tend to be thicker, even chunkier, than a liquid chemical fertilizer. This characteristic makes a drip application very difficult, and Aeroponics almost impossible. The use of very fine micron filters is necessary in these systems if the nutrient solution is to be organic and drippers or misters should be checked daily. Flood and drain or drain to waste systems, however, work just fine with an organic nutrient solution. Drain to waste systems in fact are gaining tremendous popularity especially in Australia, many gardeners are utilizing perlite as the sole medium with several irrigation cycles throughout the day. If the drain to waste system is utilizing spaghetti line to irrigate the medium it would again be necessary to check that the lines are flowing freely on a daily basis.

It is possible to formulate our own organic nutrient solutions by making a tea with organic substances such as bat guano, worm castings, and so on; these solutions would have to be thoroughly filtered. There are pre-formulated organic teas available such as pure blend, pure blend pro, earth juice, and sea mix. Actually, there are far too many to name, and the truth being that some may work better than others. No matter which ones you choose, the following are some products that would benefit your nutrient solution. One such product is humic acid. Catalyst altered water is another. It will allow each single water molecule to carry an increased amount of nutrient up the root zone. Both of these products would increase nutrient uptake which is important in organic gardens because the parts per million strength of the nutrient solutions is much lower due to the fact that the nutrients are not present in the form of salts. Another very interesting organic product is catalyst altered water. If one studies the components of this product, one will see that the formulation contains much needed calcium and magnesium as well as fossilized organic material. Is it possible that we may be able to benefit from the same elements present in the age of the ancient giants that roamed the earth? Why did dinosaurs and all the plants present at that time grow so very large? There may be a great advantage in utilizing the fossil matter of that period. 

It is still very important to monitor pH, and there is organic pH up and down formulations available. Some organic products have very extreme pH measurements. It is of course still very important to change the reservoir on a regular basis, or run a drain to waste system. 

Some awesome examples of growing organic gardens are aquaculture which utilizes fish waste to feed the plants and plants to clean the fish water, the primary cost is fish food and the ideal fish is tilapia. Another example is a combination chicken and rose greenhouse, a 30'x120' greenhouse atop a chicken coop produces $7,000 in chickens and $36,000 in roses every year. Forty tons of straw and twenty-five tons of chicken waste are reduced to six tons of hydroponic nutrient over the year.

Another fantastic example would be the extremely environmentally sound "green building" where plants are used to clean human waste from water. A remote community of 46 mobile homes became the proud user of the first natural sewage treatment system of this kind in B.C. when their failed septic system began polluting the ground water creating a health hazard. Not only is the process odour free it also produces bedding plants for their own use as well as wetland and tropical plants which are sold to the local nurseries. 

Regardless of the reason for considering gardening organically, it is well worth it. Fertilizer salts have only been around for a very short period of time compared to the history of agricultural cultivation. Will millions of years of evolution change the natural relationship that plants have with all that surrounds us? Sometimes we have to look back to go forward.

Hi JDG

Maybe I should have clarified in my earlier post that I was saying don't give up on the hydro but introduce some of the soil to act as a buffer and make things easier on yourself. I thought the soil blocks might appeal to your sense of order and space saving.Have used the "Oasis Horticubes" for lettuce. Sprinkled vermiculite on top of the seed . Agree with Rice555 fish emulsion aint gonna help ( indeed an over rich nitrogen source could hinder germination) it's either a moisture problem (I think a seed needs to absorb 50% of its weight in water before it will germinate) or temperature. I know lettuce seeds suffer from thermodormancy but not sure about rocket seeds, might be worth a google.     

"Getting a plant to grow to its full potential in common soil is difficult because of the hundreds of variables in the soil's make-up that influence the plant and its growth. It is the ability to control these variables that makes hydroponics superior to conventional gardening."

Sorry Rice 555 don't totally agree, both methods face similar hurdles. Dirt growers chemically alter the soil to make it suitable for the particular crop they wish to grow and my mates who grow hydro on a commercial scale alter the water chemically (much the same as brewers looking for a particular characteristic of beer) before it even enters their system.The more control you want to have over nature the more precise you need to be (what enzymes are you adding into your system? if any) Hydro was developed here in the UK many moons ago to grow greenhouse crops usually ungrowable in our climate and extend the season and is now an exact science based on years of research.Whether it is a practical solution to growing in the tropics is probably still open to debate (and maybe the reason, 7 years after being introduced to hydro you're still growing 90% of your crop in the dirt.)

by Roger H. Thayer

I'd like to have a dollar for each time I've been asked, "Is it organic?", since I started in the hydroponics business in 1972, I'd be rich! Is hydroponics organic? Is it chemical? What are the similarities and the differences? These questions have never really been answered to the satisfaction of most people as evidenced by the fact that I am asked the same questions today as often as I was nearly 20 years ago. Many people are confused by the word "organic" as it means different things to different people.

To the farmer, the word organic means no pesticides or herbicides. No potentially toxic or hazardous materials are to be used on crops to control bugs, weeds and diseases. To the gardener, the word usually means all of these things, plus that no unnatural or manmade chemicals are to be used. Only "organic" fertilizers and natural controls. They must: be made by nature, not by man.

To the chemist, on the other hand, the word "organic" means something totally different. In chemistry there are two distinct branches: inorganic and organic chemistry. Inorganic chemistry deals with non-living materials.

Organic chemistry focuses on the carbon and carbon containing compounds, typically associated with life. Biologists and botanists, and others who deal with the life sciences, are stuck in the middle. When they deal with chemists and other scientists, they have to adhere to the chemical definition of organic. When they talk to the farmer or gardener, they have to talk in different terms. To them, organic means "natural," not carbon based. They can say one thing, but really mean something else.

There is really no difference between an atom, mineral or the element itself. What matters is whether or not they are in a form that is non-harmful and that can used by plants. If so, they are beneficial whether natural or manmade. Plants do not take up carbon at the roots, they get all they need from the CO2 in the air, so the term "organic gardening" is confusing. The same minerals are needed in either hydroponic or organic growing. These minerals are provided to plants in the organic garden as they are released from organic matter by the action of microbes, worms and bacteria. In hydroponics, these same elements are provided by water soluble mineral salts.

In hydroponics, mineral elements are provided by the use of mineral salts. These may be either naturally derived of manmade, but most have been purified and processed so that they are water soluble and in a form that can be used by plants. Many start out as mined minerals or naturally concentrated deposits that are dissolved and processed into compounds with a definite molecular structure and composition. In the refining process, these mineral salts are usually purified to remove heavy metal contaminants and toxic substances that could harm plants or people. Since the chemical composition is precisely known, different mineral salts can be combined to form a balanced hydroponic nutrient. When dissolved in the proper proportions with a good quality water, a hydroponic nutrient solution can provide all of the mineral elements needed for plant growth without soil. By its nature, the hydroponic methods eliminates much of the uncertainty and guesswork found in organic growing. Some adjustments are normally made for proper pH, controlling nutrient concentrations (parts per million) and to maintain balance between the nutrients provided. These are usually easy adjustments and within the control of the grower. In a well-built hydroponic installation, all conditions are controllable so optimum plant growth can be achieved, even surpassing nature.

But is it organic? Can a hydroponic plant nutrient be classified as organic? Probably not, unless you go back to the chemical definition of the word, that is a substance that contains carbon. By this definition, many "chemical" nutrient formulas would be considered organic. These include the chelated trace elements as well as urea, which contains carbon in the form (NH2)CO2. It is also possible to define a hydroponic nutrient solution as organic by drawing on the definition many people use that organic is "natural".

Most of the mineral elements used in hydroponics start out as mined rock or mineral deposits which are as natural as the earth itself. The important point is that it is not the elements that are different in organic and hydroponic growing, it is how these elements are obtained and delivered to the plant.

Pros and cons. There are definite advantages and disadvantages to both organic and hydroponic growing. land is still available for conventional agriculture. With proper techniques and care, organic growing can yield good, nutritious crops on a large scale with minimal expense, although it can be labor intensive. Organic growing has an element of uncertainty, as already mentioned, but with care and knowledge, that can be kept to a minimum. Still, optimal mineral and element composition is going to involve guesswork unless expensive chemical soil analysis is routinely done and soil amendments are used to correct deficiencies. Most of the amendments used in modern agriculture happen to be the exact same mineral salts that are used in most hydroponic nutrient formulas. The advantages of hydroponic growing are increased yield through complete nutritional and environmental control, the absence of competing weeds and soil-borne diseases, increased crop density and reduced water consumption. With recycling systems, hydroponics uses one-tenth the amount of water used by irrigated agriculture. Growing media are easily sterilized and conditions can be altered quickly to suit specific crops or the growth stage of a particular crop, such as during flowering or fruit production.

The main disadvantage is the initial set-up cost. The cost of a good installation is fairly high, but if quality materials are used that cost can be spread out over many years. What about using hydroponic nutrients in an organic or soil garden! There are many advantages to this kind of hybrid application, combining organic compost with hydroponic nutrients similar to Mittleider Gardening. Care must be taken not to overdose the plants with such a system. If a full-strength chicken manure is used with a full-strength hydroponic solution the plants can be burned. Handled properly the system could eliminate mineral deficiencies. Plants grow faster and healthier as long as pH, drainage and water/nutrient retention are adequate. Because the plants are healthier they are able to ward off insects and diseases, further enhancing yield.

thought this was a well reasoned article from one of the links you gave ( I reckon a hybrid method is going to prove to be the way forward taking the best practise from both dirt and hydro growing and hopefully encorporating a bit of organics.)

 PS. Do you know of any Thai suppliers of CO₂  injector systems or grow lights (I'd be especially interested if you know of a source of the water cooled versions here in LOS)

cheers for now J

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Hi Jaideeguy

Been thinking about using soil blocks to start seeds instead of plastic cell trays. whilst perusing some websites came across this reference to using them in hydro and thought of you .

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Using Soil Blocks in Hydroponics--Part 1 of 3

Soil blocks make the perfect growing medium for a simple hydroponic unit. Suprised? Isn't hydroponics supposed to be soil-less and water based? They can be, but there is a big misconception that hydroponics have to be that way. Hydroponics can be any way you like. Not that you'll hear that from the hydroponic dealers who all want to sell you something better. Soil blocks in a hydroponic setup has many advantages over a traditional hydroponic kit. First, soil is a forgiving growing medium, which is to say, you can screw up with fertililzers or forget to water and your plants are not going to die. Second, using soil blocks in hydroponics is easy to use, not like the complicated hydroponic systems which need pumps, timers, sterilizing, meters, monitoring, costly fertilizers, and water purification and ph adjustments. This is too much science and not enough enjoyment. Third, making soil blocks from your own potting soil is a lot cheaper than buying rockwool cubes for every plant you want to grow. We are going to lead you down the path of least resistance; soil block hydroponics. Of course, you should have a set of soil blockers. I call a set as follows, a Micro 20 3/4", a Mini 4 2", and a Maxi 1 4". You can view these blockers here at www.pottingblocks.com/sizechart.html. This is a one time investment, unlike rockwool cubes or even coco cubes. When the blocks are done, they go in the compost pile with no little wrapper. With rockwool, you're back to the store for more. With soil blocks, you make your blocking mix up or purchase some potting soil and you have unlimited amount of blocks for pennies a piece. Fertilizers can be made at home with compost teas, worm teas, and manure teas for pennies a gallon. Containers for soil blocks can be made from reusable plastic bins or rubbermaid bins or barrels or even wood trays lined with greenhouse plastic. A step up with modual container size systems would be the use of high grade black plastic nursery grow bags from sizes down to a quart all the way to 30 and 50 gallons. (email for prices and details)The rest of the bags are filled with a number of inexpensive growing mediums like inert pumice stones, coco/coir chips, clay pellets, Vegan compost, or even shredded straw. Seriously consider using numerous local byproducts of farms, like walnut shells, plum pits, or moss found in a forest floors or the old man's beard moss growing from fir tree limbs. These are safe, environmentally responsible growing mediums which are ecologically harvested and minimally produced. Nature provides if we look around.

Now, the issue of watering can be as varied as the person who's doing the growing. There's the manual top watering with fertigation, or water plus fertilizer in a diluted form. There's manual bottom watering, ebb and flow, wick watering, or wicking, and then water basins, pumps and timers for the automated setup. All these hydroponic setups can cost little to nothing, and allow the beginners of hydroponics to get their feet wet and still outgrow the professionals. How? Simply by the miraculous power of soil. Yep, soil is a miracle substance that just water and fertilizers do not have alone. You can have one without the other, but make mine with soil. I like the billions of microscopic biological creatures, called the Soil Food Web, to assist my plants whether I'm growing hydroponically or in the farm field. For every problem that comes up with most hydroponic growers, something has to be bought and applied and fixed in order to get a crop. With soil block hydroponics, if a problem comes up, you have the power of natural based elements like compost teas, wildcrafted or garden herb teas, kitchen ingredients like molasses, milk, eggshells, and spices like cinnamon, cayenne pepper, and dish soap for remedial aids. These cost nothing and work with soil and effectively balance out your little biological imbalances like bugs, pests, molds, fungus, etc. Soil is like the fulcrum point in hydroponic gardening where you can always get balanced with something on one end or the other, like air, water, nutrients, biology, light and temperature. With just a water based hydroponic system, EVERYTHING must be precise or you'll end up with some pretty sad plants. I prefer the forgiving and learnable art of soil and water hydroponics. Stay tuned for part 2 and I'll teach you how. But first, take a look at the soil block web site of choice: www.pottingblocks.com.

cheers for now J 

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